link ecu users

[urban]

i have an mk2 link ecu . ive had it awhile . i bought it used in 2004. it has boost control and im using the AEM wideband with it.
i know there are a few others here that are still using this thing.i like it cause its simple,and its been pretty reliable. and they've become pretty cheap , ever since the MS came out.
ofcourse the MS is better , and im not trying to compare ,or do i care about other ecu's . fact is some of us still have these and , i for one , are not replacing it.
hopefully we can get some useful info from this thread if we can get all the Link owners to chime in .

[Titus]

1.6 Link owner here.

[revlimiter]

Obiwan Link owner here. Using a Boomslang harness to make it work in my 95.

[urban]

So Rev.
i read your pretty good with your link.
i do all my tuning through keypad. Using the wideband see fuel . so far ive never touched the ignition settings.
about cold start ,what zones are adjusted to reduce fuel on cold start . currently it starts pretty rich and runs a little rough. i think its a 30 sec warm up till fuel starts to reduce on its own.
where can i adjust this ?

[kung fu jesus]

I have used a Link Mk1 and Mk2 in my car. I use a MSPnp now. What I miss most about the Link is the knock sensor.

[brontosaurus]

I have used a Link Mk1 and Mk2 in my car. I use a MSPnp now. What I miss most about the Link is the knock sensor.
Is Knocksense any good?

[revlimiter]

So Rev.
i read your pretty good with your link.
i do all my tuning through keypad. Using the wideband see fuel . so far ive never touched the ignition settings.
about cold start ,what zones are adjusted to reduce fuel on cold start . currently it starts pretty rich and runs a little rough. i think its a 30 sec warm up till fuel starts to reduce on its own.
where can i adjust this ?

I'm okay at it. I also do all of my tuning with the keypad and haven't touched ignition.

And it's funny you mention cold start. I've just started fiddling with that due to it being WAY too rich. If I remember right, Z6 and Z16 are the zones? I'll look again when I drive the car next.

BTW, I keep a Link tuning manual under the passenger seat in a thin binder. It helps me a lot for this sort of thing. You might consider doing the same.

[urban]

I actually carry on also .its atill kinda vague.

[kung fu jesus]

Is Knocksense any good?

I don't particulaly think so.

[Flyineunos]

I have a link 1.6, and I have never really messed with it. Usually only when I am smogging/tuning. Today I noticed something while I was adjusting idle, it seems to rest to the old settings when I shut down the car. Do I need to store my settings , and save them somewhere?

Also, I really need to raise the idle when the A/C is on, but what do those numbers mean?

[revlimiter]

I played with the Link a bit this afternoon. I re-enabled the Combo O2 setting. I was on wideband-only before (got the AEM also). Turning on combo mode lets the narrowband take care of the 100 zone mixture and the wideband take care of everything else. Seems to have helped with the idle mixture and cold start a bit.



I have a link 1.6, and I have never really messed with it. Usually only when I am smogging/tuning. Today I noticed something while I was adjusting idle, it seems to rest to the old settings when I shut down the car. Do I need to store my settings , and save them somewhere?

Also, I really need to raise the idle when the A/C is on, but what do those numbers mean?


heh. Yeah, you have to save after you change anything. From the main screen, you press up... twice? to get to the STORE screen. Then you hit both adjust buttons together at the same time. You do this with the clutch out and the car idling. It CAN be moving at the time, but the engine has to be idling. I've stored over 80 before. lol

As for AC, just increase the numbers. That's the amount of fuel you're adding when the AC turns on in points. 0 is the minimum, 255 is the max. Add like 4 points and see how it does. If it doesn't help, add 4 more. When it starts getting too rich, take away 2.

[urban]

This is why i started this thread.
i know its deep inside m.net but its good to have active users know each other

[Flyineunos]

OMG! Thanks Rev! going outside now.....

[Sharpie]

Another LINK owner here. I adjust mine for emissions and that's about it. Passed in Dec. by pulling 5 points of master fuel and 2 degrees of timing. It's worked for me for 7 years.

[Flyineunos]

^This Exactly. Love that adjust-ability with the keyboard so handy.

[revlimiter]

Another LINK owner here. I adjust mine for emissions and that's about it. Passed in Dec. by pulling 5 points of master fuel and 2 degrees of timing. It's worked for me for 7 years.

Heck yeah! I did the same thing last e-test. I pulled something like 5 points of master fuel and turned off L3/L4 autotuning. Passed with no problems.

[Titus]

Heck yeah! I did the same thing last e-test. I pulled something like 5 points of master fuel and turned off L3/L4 autotuning. Passed with no problems.

Same here.

[Flyineunos]

All the Cali guys should but a link!

My engine builder wants me to change to AEM EMS.....I told him hell no!(for now)

[kung fu jesus]

The worst thing about the link, to me, was the resolution and lack of support. The autotune on my MS is far easier to work with and I just need to pull out a netbook I keep in the car. I thought I read there is/will be an app for android, so that should be pretty cool too.

[Titus]

I have been without my car for 11 months. Before it went down, I was planning to do some tuning on it. I have a netbook with DLL up and running on it, but I fear it will take me a while to get back into the swing of things with the LINK once the car is back home.

[kung fu jesus]

Its easier to tune if you can look at the maps in cells on a spreadsheet.

[revlimiter]

Yeah, a lot easier. A buddy (Sharpie's dad) has a laptop with the Link tuning software on it. Looking at the table is so much easier to understand.

As for "lack of support" I have to disagree. I had a crazy problem with my sensors fluctuating like mad this past summer. Ray Ayala (the guy responsible for the Miata Link firmware) spent many hours emailing back and forth with me till I got it fixed. Turned out to be my wideband dirtying up the grounds for every sensor on the intake side of the engine. But it took a lot of help from him to figure that out.

FM has helped me out quite a few times in the past too. Jeremy still supports the Link.

[revlimiter]

I've reduced my Z6 about 20 points (that's the CSTARTF number, for the extra fuel that keeps your car running the first 20something seconds) and cut Z16 a bit as well (COLD fuel, the stuff that stays with you till you're warmed up to 80*C). Much nicer cold emissions. No more black soot being sprayed all over my driveway. Or at least a lot less.

BTW, Z715 is the fuel prime squirt. I used to know this at some point and forgot. I've been double priming on the coldest mornings because mine was set down at 120. I've got it up to 200 now (255 is the max) and get the car to fire on the first chug of the starter.

[urban]

thanks
i dropped z16 a few points and it really smooths out after the 20sec start.
but my z6 didnt seem to have an effect . the initial value in the base map is at 30 .
what was the initial value before you changed it , and then after. ??
cause of that i didnt even touch the z715.

unfortunately i dont have a narrowband o2 hooked up. wide only.

[revlimiter]

My z6 was at 240 for whatever reason. I lowered it back to the 180 default and then a bit more to 160. Much nicer cold running.

So, it looks like the obiwan 550cc turbo defaults are pretty different than the 1600 440cc defaults.

[urban]

well , i doubt ive ever touched the z6, so im pretty sure its on the default. but the aem shows a flashing 10.0 at start. so it is too rich. i ran z6 up and down trying to see the gauge lean out before the 20 sec timeout but didnt get anything. if its rich , i should take the value down .
what do you think .

cant i reduce the amount of start time the z6 effects?

[revlimiter]

FM Link defaults (http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/defaults.php?choice=12)

You can reduce the Z6 start time. It's... damn, I closed the tab with the Link defaults I just pasted... it's in the 700s somewhere. It's also on the keypad for CSTARTF. There's a number (30) and the time (22). You use the right side up/down keys to change the time.

I just realized how silly this must sound to users of modern, mature ECUs. I'll have a Megasquirt someday, but I'm gonna enjoy my Link while it continues to work.

[urban]

thanks.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/index.php <<<<<<<<<<<< FM's Link support page.
and the downloadable link manual
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/ecu/ECU_tuning.pdf

is this it.
z710 - choke decay?
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/defaults.php?choice=3

[kung fu jesus]

As for "lack of support" I have to disagree. I had a crazy problem with my sensors fluctuating like mad this past summer. Ray Ayala (the guy responsible for the Miata Link firmware) spent many hours emailing back and forth with me till I got it fixed. Turned out to be my wideband dirtying up the grounds for every sensor on the intake side of the engine. But it took a lot of help from him to figure that out.

FM has helped me out quite a few times in the past too. Jeremy still supports the Link.

All three times I called FM for support, Jeremy told me they no longer supported the Link and I had to go to Ken Hill, who was excellent.

As for the spreadsheets, if you don't have the laptop, take a little time and write out the cells in a grid on paper. I used to have an Xcell template for this. Seeing the cells helps you to 'smooth' out the map.

I think I still might have a PDA and charger somewhere with PLink on it. If anyone is interested, I can see if I still have it.

[revlimiter]

I actually own the SerialLink. I just never bought the DLL software. I don't own a Windows laptop... :(

[urban]

fairly rare usdm nostaligic part now

[Mr.Woolery]

I still use a Link in my 1.6L Pitcrew.

[revlimiter]

Isn't the Link from New Zealand?

[RyanxStorey]

Hyrule.

[revlimiter]

^ well done! lol

[RyanxStorey]

I'm just kidding sorry to derail. I saw that and had to do it.

[AMMendes]

I have the Link on my N/A Miata. Soon will get the JR MP45 on

[richterat83]

running the link (which I THOUGHT was the obiwan setup) but turns out it's a 94-95 setup with the ecu terminals rewired to fit the 96

Found that out when I went to wire up the AEM Eugo to the ECU and none of the wires matched the harness wiring provided from FM

[revlimiter]

That was a fairly common mod before the OBIWAN came out. More than a few NB autocrossers also rewired.

[richterat83]

Yeah, i'm seeing that now that i'm doing a little more research

Now to figure which wire is where so i can get the wideband installed


Also, a BIG thank you for this thread. Trying to revive dead threads on m.net or miataturbo isn't too easy as not many are familiar with the link, so THANK YOU! Great to have a place with more than one person familiar with it

[revlimiter]

http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/ecu/OBD2_rewire.pdf

I did this in reverse to put my obiwan in my 95. nice wiring reference.

[MLZ]

I'm also an Mk. 1 Link + display user!
It's an old piece of electronics and proven technology. It also works fine with my Innovate LC-1.
So for me it's a keeper!

[richterat83]

I have a few questions now

I am unable to get the keypad to go into timing mode so i can set/adjust timing.

I have read the manual through and can't figure out where the timing setting is

[fowl3r]

Ahhh Link owners! Not trying to hijack your thread just asking a question... I have a link ecu on my '93 NA, with a JRSC, 440 injectors. I haev an idle issue. It goes 1500,1200,1500,1200,1500 etc.. I took it to a well known shop here in the bay area. He said its not an ISCV or a vacuum leak. That it is my tuning. Any ideas guys? Much help would be appreciated. You can PM me so I'm not hijacking the thread. Thanks again.

[richterat83]

have you read the tuning manual?

[fowl3r]

I have a couple times, and i'm still not getting all of it. I've learned a bunch. On page 14, it says "Problem: The idle will oscillate between 1400 and 1600RPM in cold weather for a few seconds
after start up.
Solution: When the car is first started, Z19 raises the idle speed to keep the engine running.
If the value of Z19 is set too high the engine will run into deceleration fuel cutoff, at 1500 RPM,
that shuts the fuel injectors off. Lower Z19 by one point at a time until the oscillating stops. Z19
must be set higher than or equal to Z18; we recommend higher by 4 points."

Mine does it while its idling after its been heated up.

[richterat83]

Going is slow, but i finally figured which wires are for which on the wideband, but still can't get the link into timing settings.

I just replaced the neutral switch on the top of the trans as well as on the clutch because those are the 2 switches the tuning manual control the visible "N" in the idle screen, but after replacing both, no "N" shows up still not allowing me to access the timing

[Turboroadster]

New here, but not to the Miata or the link, have a 94 with one of the last links sold by FM, car has been in storage for several years now and hoping to get it up and running this winter. Have all the manuals and both the Link software and the free ware. Do most of my tuning in auto with a wideband. Going to be like Christmas when I get this back up and running and learning all this again.

[kung fu jesus]

I have an older chip from one of my Links. I had a Mk2 and a Mk1. I believe it may be from the Mk1. It has a handwritten tag on it. If anyone wants it, shoot me a message.