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BlitzWing
12-11-2014, 06:42 AM
So I just got m car back from the tuners after having my JR kit fitted with an MS2 ecu and Aem wideband. and its at best a peace of crap to drive.

I guess what I'm after is some ammunition to bring to the table when I bring it back. I wont drop any names yet as they have been more then helpful so far but right now their best guess is that the coolant temp sensor has died on the dyno run or after the last test drive as they have told me it was totally fine before I took it out for a test drive with a mechanic.

So the right now the car...
wont turnover unless I hammer the throttle multiple times.
will stall if I take my foot off the pedal while cold.
when its warmed up the idle will stick to 2500rpm.
when pulling away its rather lumpy unless I give it some gas.
one warmed up it will sit at 1100rpm but from time to time just hesitate when trying to pull away smoothly.

a quick google says it might be the sensor but the car has been fine up till now so its quite a coincidence.

Since its winter and I've not had a day off to look at it in the light for long all I can say right now on a visual inspection is that rather then welding the wide band down at the bottom of the manifold after the last 2 branches join they have put it in the normal spot. So on my Fujitsubo its only picking up gasses from one cylinder and frankly its maybe too close to the exit on the head to get a good reading (I hear 18" is the minimum) the current location cant be more then 14".

I'm also thinking maybe the tune is bad. I know the UEGO needs to have custom settings rather then the defualt AEM ones the ms2 gives.

so all in all I've paid for a dyno run and 8 hours work for my car to run like shit. not happy if anyone else has other idea's I'd love to put them forward as well.

kung fu jesus
12-11-2014, 08:17 AM
Tell us the MS settings and show the tables.

BlitzWing
12-11-2014, 10:43 AM
ok time to show my noob ways.... how do I do that. just plug it in and screet shot the screen?

kung fu jesus
12-11-2014, 10:49 AM
Alright, start reading...

http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio/tunerstudioms-menu

kung fu jesus
12-11-2014, 11:05 AM
Before this becomes a mitigated disaster, there are things you should know. You have two, maybe three options here. First, knowing what you are installing, familiarizing yourself with their basic operations and controls so you can monitor them to spot issues. Second, have someone else do it. Third, a hybrid of the two so you can sort out small issues without reverting to the second for each issue that crops up.

We don't know what was installed with the SC; larger injectors, larger fuel pump, ancillary electronics, secondary intake cooling systems, etc. From general references to your posts, it seems like the shop that did the work, nor you, really understand the components installed. I am trying hard to not sound condescending or chiding, that is not the intention. We cannot possibly know where to start without the basic information. From there, diagnosing the issues from the tune maps or datalogs is going to be akin to teaching someone with spinal injuries to walk again. Power adders are great and there is a LOT of information out there on each one, but when those become modified and mated with an aftermarket ECU, the answers you need become more specialized and require specific knowledge. So, while we all want to dig in and help, I just wanted to point to the quickest, most direct solution...find a specialist that has GOOD experience with these systems. If the car runs as poorly as stated, it would cause more harm than good to try to keep it running.

Satisaii
12-11-2014, 12:26 PM
Easy to tell coolant temp in Tuner Studio. Just hook it up, pull up the gauge, and read it. I would blame a wiring issue before a sending unit though. Use a multimeter to verify continuity between the sending unit and the pin on the ECU wiring harness. Wiggle the wires some to see if it may be intermittent, especially where the wires go into the connector. If that checks out good, measure the resistance between the engine block and the contact on the sending unit. All those things do is change resistance as a function of temperature.

Satisaii
12-11-2014, 12:32 PM
And yes, find someone who really knows the Megasquirt well to help you. All it takes is one mistake to really ruin your day, and I doubt the dyno operator and tuner is going to pay for your engine repairs.

BlitzWing
12-11-2014, 03:31 PM
I understand its a massive amount of info to really deal with this. So firstly thanks for helping. I don't intend to do it myself I'm going to let the guys who I paid to do it right the first time sort it out. I just want some info to help them also if I can know a few things before hand I should be able to catch them if they try and blind me with science etc.

car is as follows....

Yellow OEM injectors, OEM fuel pump, modded fuel rail so its now duel feed. AEM uego wideband, It has a GM IAT sensor fitted to the dummy TB however the tuner still used the OEM MAF (despite me asking not to as I intended to remove it), Fujitsubo manifold (421) aftermarket rad with OEM thermostat and the rest of the SC kit is all from the JR parts. the ECU is a MS2 basic I believe.

kung fu jesus
12-11-2014, 04:55 PM
Like John mentioned above, I would bet it's a wiring issue. On top of that, I suspect it may be a ECU setting or two that is wrong.

As for the MAF, are they running the ECU off the stock MAF or the AIT on the dummy TB?

Saionara
02-02-2015, 12:55 PM
Doesn't make sense why they would run the MAF if you have MS...you need to source out someone who knows what they are doing before these guys f-up your motor!

BlitzWing
02-02-2015, 05:22 PM
I should really update this... Well I gave them a 2nd chance and what I got back was a nightmare. Firstly it took till the 9th to finally get it back and it was in a sorry mess when I collected it.

Even with the GM IAT sensor and a new ECU coolant temp sensor its still got a crappy idle and cold start is just as shit is before but it will act normally if I let it warm up kill the engine and do a warm start (it cant seem to switch between cold start and hot maps) Turns out even with an E-mail saying the MS2 was originally for a NA build they might have just tweaked the pre-installed maps rather then start from fresh. So its possible that its rocking an NA tune for the cold start and is only really tuned on the warm tune.

check out this pro install of the vac line to the map sensor
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/rsinstall/IMG_0013_zpse01a736d.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/rsinstall/IMG_0013_zpse01a736d.jpg.html)

this is how these "pros" left the passenger side foot well
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/rsinstall/IMG_0008_zps8a9fa48d.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/rsinstall/IMG_0008_zps8a9fa48d.jpg.html)
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/rsinstall/IMG_0007_zps9f8ba5fc.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/rsinstall/IMG_0007_zps9f8ba5fc.jpg.html)

But wait gets worse.... They actually stole shit. at first I noticed they swapped my rad cap, Its was a Mishimoto cap so its nice looking but not expensive, I was pissed and the guy at the shop claimed he knew nothing. I just told him to find it and send it to me. But the true horror was when I got home. I had a 2nd throttle body, ISC, Airbox and the original pulley taken out from the trunk. They found everything but the cap 2 weeks later and mailed them to me the TB and ISC had been taken apart by someone so clearly they were not lost.

But wait it gets even worse... So turns on the 2nd time they swapped belts and played with the tensioner. How do I know this? Well I got home one day to catch a burning smell. They had forced it so far over to one side that the belt was cutting into the coolant return.
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/rsinstall/IMG_0030_zps58ef3724.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/rsinstall/IMG_0030_zps58ef3724.jpg.html)

I know why they did it. In my box of parts I left them was a reduction pulley for the M45. Problem is that with the new pulley the angle the belt returns and the smaller size means it has to be cranked up more then normal meaning that with the early JR tensioner they belt pinches or rubs on the hose. To fix this I picked up a smaller belt but sadly it was a little too short on its own so I've put money down on a TDR tensioner that will let me run a Gates 4pk1280 rather then the slightly too big 4pk1313.... and if they had just left on the original pulley or swapped it back I would not have to bother doing this but I just dont have the tools to take off the smaller pulley.

JamieH
02-02-2015, 07:31 PM
I think I'd lose my damn mind and common sense if a shop treated my car and me like this. Hope you get it sorted out, man.

mx54life
02-02-2015, 07:49 PM
Ditch the MS idea. Unless you want to get involved. Get one of these JR non-adjustable black box or the TDR card or even the Fast Forward card and be done with it. They're bandages yes but they stop the bleeding lol. I have the first one and not a single problem. Purrs like a cat and very reliable. I don't race so excuse my shallowness, I can hang in the highway, I can stretch out well exiting a ramp and may kick someone's a$$ from a stand still if my timing is right. I did that one time with a Vette and on the next light he was obliged to ask what was under my hood lol.

BlitzWing
02-03-2015, 03:17 AM
actually have the timing/fuel cards in the shed but felt like MS was the way to go if I wanted a more economical car to run as I hear the fuel cars just dump fuel in on boost.

kung fu jesus
02-03-2015, 03:21 PM
Oh boy. 4 choices:

Remove the S/C, MS2 and read up about installing and running the sytem until you feel comfortable to do it yourself.

Remove the MS2, make the S/C stock (no reduction pulleys), add the basic black box gizmo in your shed.

Remove the S/C, install MS2 and run that on base maps until you feel comfortable with how it works, how to read and understand the maps, and know how to diagnose small issues.

Get a qualified recommendation on another shop to fix everything.

Good luck! I would be punching babies in this situation.

BlitzWing
02-03-2015, 06:14 PM
currently I've just taken the belt off and I can drive it minus boost, PS and AC but its bad, really bad. They have agreed to a refund but they seem to be dragging their feet when its coming to an agreement. I want most if not all my money since nothing is as promised and what they have done is poor quality or just dangerous. They offered £250 of the original £600 they wanted to keep some to cover the dyno time but I dont see why I should pay for a dyno run on the car when it was clearly not ready and after the 2nd visit is not even accurate. Sadly this is looking like a legal battle in the making. They also told me they fired the mechanic as if that would mean I'd drop the case. I really dont care that they fired the guy I'm still without a working car.

I will keep the MS installed but once I get the money back its off to another shop to do the job right. currently its just sitting on the drive I've not even turned it over in 2 weeks now.

I did a much bigger "review" over on a UK board needless to say these pics are just the highlights in whats been a shity few weeks. But hey the TDR tensioner has shipped.

kung fu jesus
02-05-2015, 07:04 PM
13396

Agent☣Orange
02-05-2015, 09:01 PM
I have no idea how the law works in England but it seems like you should have some recourse if you don't get your money back. This is crazy incompetence and most Yanks reading this don't know that £600 is $920!

BlitzWing
02-22-2015, 08:16 AM
Garage are still screwing with me. A 3rd person said to be representing them as given me an offer of £200 thats £50 less then before saying I refused to give them a 2nd chance (actually it would of been a 3rd at this point) saying it was my fault for collecting it too soon despite the fact I contacted them and arranged a time etc etc. they seem to forget that everything has been taken down in e-mails and photos taken etc. They also put the missing parts down to me not giving them time to box it up and clean the car... still does not explain how parts still went missing and how they magically moved from a locked trunk to their work desks.

But on a lighter note I fitted my TDR tensioner on Saturday its almost spot on but I need to align the SC. its flat against the PS pulley and looks flat with a ruler when I rest it on the thermostat housing however when cranking over it seems to skip a rib. I have a feeling that the reduction pulley sticks out a little too far so I need to push the SC back about 5mm give or take. I'd do it today but sadly being England its gray and raining and I have no way to work on it in the dry.

kung fu jesus
02-22-2015, 10:01 AM
Sometimes the best work is the stuff you learn to do yourself, regardless of the learning curve. Good stuff, keep moving forward!

BlitzWing
02-22-2015, 12:22 PM
the offending belt
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/IMG_0044_zpsubw7asad.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/IMG_0044_zpsubw7asad.jpg.html)

the gap between the pulley and the SC looks a bit bigger then normal but nothing that could not be dialed out I guess. Any clues on the make or spec? I was given it with the kit so I've got no clue.
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/IMG_0045_zps5c6yx0ey.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/IMG_0045_zps5c6yx0ey.jpg.html)

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/IMG_0047_zps2hnz66ej.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/IMG_0047_zps2hnz66ej.jpg.html)

mx54life
02-22-2015, 01:56 PM
Sometimes the best work is the stuff you learn to do yourself, regardless of the learning curve. Good stuff, keep moving forward!

^^^I can attest to that.

Now I have the same SC set-up as yours. Do you have PS and AC? Your belt looks too long, I have AC only and I use 300 mm belt. Also u need to place a couple of washers on the front side of the SC mount to straighten it up. I will take pics when I get home later. IMO MS is an over kill for an M45. Get one of those non-adjustable black box pretty in expensive got one for $60. One that has a vacuum sensor. They 're programmed moderately for probably a 160-170 hp rating and trust me the driveability is awesome. Reliability is uncompromised. The real advantage of the non-programmable is that you can reach a decent result and then u will have time to enjoy and drive the car and more importantly improve your driving skills. Now the programmable stuff is good if you "truly" know what you want. And truly ready to take on the next "weak link" that you will discover ha enough I am revealing my age lol. But yeah as KFJ hinted you are now on the next level so take it on son and enjoy the beast upon you called miata.

BlitzWing
02-22-2015, 03:14 PM
Oh a few of those photos are after I took the tension out of the belt to correct it. its a gates 4pk1280 it fits fine but maybe for the next one I'll go a size down.

I've got a few spare washers to make into shims going to try one in the morning before I go to work if the weather is nice and I've got the time. The nuts and bolts side seems to be just about done. I've got a few local fans who have offered to help most rocking the same SC and MS2 the only difference being they are both NB's so its not going to be quite as easy but some simple comparing should show whats going wrong.

I still have the black boxes that the original owner had given me but with the MS installed with the wideband and IAT I dont want to have to swap it all back to make less power when just a good afternoon with a tuner could put it all right.

BlitzWing
02-28-2015, 12:49 PM
tried fiddling with the bracket today but its already maxed out. For the time being I've added a 2nd shim and once the battery is charged I''l give it another go tomorrow. The bracket was repaired after a crack so I have a feeling whats why I might need more then 1 shim (however the past owner told he he only used one but then again I also have an after market manifold to deal with he didn't). Also with the forward bolt out its natural resting spot was at least 2 or 3 mm from the engine so maybe it was a bit off. If not I will do a run to the parts store and get a cheaper shorter belt just to test the idea. I also need to sort out some sort of MAF delete but that can wait I guess.

mx54life
02-28-2015, 02:00 PM
I needed to use two shims and if you don't have Power Steering but have AC try the 300 mm belt. It gave me a perfect fit with the TDR SC pulley kit that I think you also have.

BlitzWing
02-28-2015, 02:33 PM
sadly got both AC and PS. I'm currently trying to use the gates 4pk1280 might step down to 1240 as I have a ton of room to play with

mx54life
02-28-2015, 03:11 PM
My bad it is not the 300 mm but rather "500 mm" belt known here stateside as 4pk1270........I am visual so here is a pics of it installed with the TDR pulley kit and just AC no PS. I reckon even with the PS you would have enough/plenty adjustment slack left. Since the pulleys are not fully stretched out or compressed yet.

http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a578/ebaradas/IMG_1972_zpsxjlftmps.jpg (http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/ebaradas/media/IMG_1972_zpsxjlftmps.jpg.html)


BTW here are the two shims I was referring to over the front bolt of the SC bracket and it will straighten the belt placement in relation to the rest of the pulleys. Without this shims I had belt grinding, rubber powder all over.

http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a578/ebaradas/IMG_1981_zps16zibafj.jpg (http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/ebaradas/media/IMG_1981_zps16zibafj.jpg.html)

http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a578/ebaradas/IMG_1975_zpssupizta8.jpg (http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/ebaradas/media/IMG_1975_zpssupizta8.jpg.html)

BlitzWing
03-01-2015, 11:42 AM
thanks for the photos. I noticed your pulley sits a ton closer to the SC then mine. Maybe that's down to the early cone design but that gave me the idea to double check the pulley they fitted.

So I'll cut to the chase. the pulley they fitted is backwards. I tried to compensate by moving the SC back but it was maxxed out even now. I did add another shim but I'm quite sure it did nothing.

First photo to show I'm pointing the original pulley the right way (notice the JR logo)
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/IMG_0050_zps45f84nqj.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/IMG_0050_zps45f84nqj.jpg.html)

Ok now lets lay it on top of the reduction pulley. Easy to see at this angle that the longer nose needs to be pointing out while
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/IMG_0055_zps1mhksp7d.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/IMG_0055_zps1mhksp7d.jpg.html)

now lets lay a ruler over them both to get them aligned. you can see that the original pulley is in the perfect spot.
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/IMG_0066_zps197o8nrb.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/IMG_0066_zps197o8nrb.jpg.html)

I did some basic measurements and they seem to be the same width and the short nose's are about the same length meaning just flipping the pulley would solve the problem

BlitzWing
03-08-2015, 06:15 PM
Got the old pulley on now and the belt is fine with no skipping! reduction pulley would fit but I'd need to make a 1mm shim of some sort to get it in the sweet spot. Bad news? I've got a nasty leak I cant pin point the origin but its pooling under the engine. All the hoses are dry so I'm suspecting the pump or the gasket around the Thermostat housing connecting to the block. I'm tempted to say its the housing as the same garage who did my SC did the housing the 2nd time and I'm willing to put money on it that rather then using a new gasket they used some of that instant gasket goo. They used it for a fair few other areas including the seal around the thermostats house and the dummy throttle body and Idle control valve. Also the pump and inlet pipe were new last year and have not shown me any problems till now.

mx54life
03-08-2015, 07:41 PM
Is this a 1.6 or 1.8? Oil leak?

BlitzWing
03-09-2015, 03:18 AM
1.8 and coolant so no short nose problems luckly

mx54life
03-09-2015, 10:32 AM
If your leaking coolant that is not good. You definitely need to track down the source. Check the WP. Hoses? Freeze plugs?

BlitzWing
03-15-2015, 02:00 PM
So with all my other problems one that I think might also be related is that my battery keeps draining I charge it every time I use the car and I only ever run it to test the belt for the last 3 months so while I thought it was running dead due to lack of use and small drains from things like the radio and alarm I suspected the wideband of being behind it. I had my eye on the WB before as I just could not figure out at what point they cut the 0.5v for the signal.

Now I originally thought that they cut into the stereo and used the Blue and red (constant 12v) rather then the Blue and Black (accessory) but upon pulling the tombstone out I'm actually a little confused. I seen the cord for the AEM running down and then up behind my dash I gave it a tug and I noticed these two wires pop out. I give each a tug and they are connected. So now I know the white 0.5v signal wire from the AEM is not connected to anything and possibly the black and red are directly connected to the ignition possibly?

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/IMG_0093_zpstjt1i499.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/IMG_0093_zpstjt1i499.jpg.html)

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/IMG_0092_zpsf32tm5kb.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/IMG_0092_zpsf32tm5kb.jpg.html)

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/IMG_0089_zps0az3134n.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/IMG_0089_zps0az3134n.jpg.html)

BlitzWing
03-18-2015, 02:52 PM
so turns out my rad had cracked but it was the side facing the condenser so thats good I get to try out the Mishimoto life time warranty. Also got this today in what might be the worst timing so far.

http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/IMG_0099_zpsgnvo8uld.jpg (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/IMG_0099_zpsgnvo8uld.jpg.html)

in other news I think my battery pains might be down to my own lack of understanding of the Westco. turns out it needs a week on the trickle charger not 3 days so my over night charging has probably only done about %5 of what I thought it did.

Also my yearly MOT is due on the 8th this gives me a deadline to get it some what drivable.

So the plan is to wire in the wide band once the rad is replaced, see if I can get a tune for this MS2 and then take it to another shop to do a final tune.

Then its going to court. The shop (Blendini Motorsport) are just ignoring my E-mails so I'm putting together a letter to give them a final chance then next month if I hear nothing its off to small claims... I really dont want to do this but the money wasted is just a little too much to just brush off as experience

kung fu jesus
03-18-2015, 03:42 PM
Wait...the signal feed for the O2 sensor was not connected to anything except the stock O2 wire? Holy crap, I can't decide if that shop that did the work is negligent or willfully ignorant.

BlitzWing
03-18-2015, 04:11 PM
yeah the wide band just has earth and a live form some place under the drivers side dash. the 0.5v aux connection just dangles out and the stock wires are untouched. for context this is the same company who said that it will run totally fine on a MAF till I gave it to them a 2nd time. So thinking about it they expected a car to work normally just off the MAF, ECU temp coolant sensor and CAS. Now at least they plugged in the IAT.

BlitzWing
04-03-2015, 03:33 PM
So update time. The guy who I was in contact with but then dropped off the face of the earth suddenly got back in contact months later... He's pissed it seems. So despite sending me my missing parts by mail addressed to my user name he's told me he's only just been made aware of my review thread on MX5Nutz. He's not happy. He's claiming I'm breaching data protection laws by quoting E-mails and how if I dont change my tune they will sue me for slander. Oh but he did make me an offer to refund me £250 plus take a 3rd crack at it. Also he informed me that they had been making every effort to be fair and to get this sorted as soon as we could. (yet this has been going on since Dec '14)

I replied quoting the last E-mail I had gotten from someone else at his place telling me its just £200 as a final offer. And telling him how given the massive gaps in time between E-mails and differing offers he can see how wires could be crossed. I listed his offer back to him in clear bullet points just to make sure its all clear what we are both offering... and now its been almost a week and no reply.

But in other news Mishimoto got my new rad to me quickly shame my car is locked up till tuesday.

One thing I did notice and I did say this before is that since the 2nd trip my fuel gauge is at 100% constantly. Now my understanding is that the only way that can happen is if the circuit is getting no resistance. I also traced the wide band under the drivers side dash... I'm wondering did they splice into the wire going to or coming from the fuel gauge? guess its going to have to wait till Wednesday then I'll go to town in the interior and pull it all apart and finally take a look at the tune.

kung fu jesus
04-04-2015, 12:50 PM
Not sure how the law works there, but since you paid for his services, you own that data. Unless you signed a non-disclosure, tell him to pound sand or talk to your attorney. Leave it up until you hear from his, or he refunds you the full amount. Clearly this ass clown sold you a faulty bill of goods/services and his reputation is at stake. No cease and desist? Piss off.

He isn't pissed, he's scared. Rightfully so.

Agent☣Orange
04-05-2015, 03:01 AM
I agree. Given that England has several centuries more experience evolving their common-sense laws than we have, I can't imagine that douchenozzle has any case, especially in the collective opinion of a great forum like MX5nutz.

BlitzWing
04-06-2015, 06:00 AM
I know he's talking s**t. I deal with the Data Protection act almost daily. Its more to do with corporations and public agencies selling customer info (like medical data and finance info) then sharing personal emails and neither of us has said or even implied any about an NDA. As for Slander well UK slander laws are so f**ked up and complex that just getting a layer will cost more then what I paid them. Plus I've made sure to document everything so if he did bring the law into this it could not make it to court unless he wanted to loose... badly.

BlitzWing
04-12-2015, 06:49 AM
So I'm not really the best of logging ECU info but I've took a few screenshots of what Tunerstudio has given me.

In the first photo the AFR is fixed at 12.10 regardless of what the car is doing. keep in mind the wideband was not connected to the ECU in any way when I got it back, I've since connected it via the DB37 connector but the settings have not been changed so its not using it.
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/Screenshot%2054_zps9lmxjstu.png (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/Screenshot%2054_zps9lmxjstu.png.html)

spark table
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/Screenshot%2056_zpswuvf0zmt.png (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/Screenshot%2056_zpswuvf0zmt.png.html)

VE table
http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/JamesCox1985/Screenshot%2055_zpsyj1lya1j.png (http://s1377.photobucket.com/user/JamesCox1985/media/Screenshot%2055_zpsyj1lya1j.png.html)

Satisaii
04-12-2015, 09:53 AM
File>Project>Properties, gets a dialog box. Go to settings and make sure that you have the wideband - AFR (Default) selected.

Then go Tools>Unlock Calibrations. Unlock the calibrations (if locked). Burn that.

Tools>Calibrate AFR Table. Choose your sensor from the drop down menu and write it to controller.

Relock the calibrations, power cycle the MS and see if it reads the same as the AEM gauge.

I did this walk through based on my MS3X install. There may be some difference for a MS2.

If the 2 gauges don't read the same you may need to do a custom linear wideband. I have only done one AEM install and it did not work right with the units in the drop down menu.

BlitzWing
04-12-2015, 11:58 AM
I've had a fair bit of luck with it today just toying around. (just wish I had wifi outside as posting this would be quicker).

I've had to use custom linear settings for the wideband: 1.09v = 12.8 and 4.06=18.1 as its a AEM Uego 30-4100.
I've reset the TPS (that photo above was with my foot off the pedal)
I've set the CLT settings the same as this site this miata (http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/n76/usdm-mazda-miata-9495-18bp-mt.html)
I've set the IAT to GM as I believe that was the sensor in my kit (I've PM'd the seller to confirm)
I'm using a base map sent to me by the guy who built my ECU (reverant who's been a great help so far.)
the only things I've changed were the redline (slightly sooner at 7k and by default spark cut out was off I've turned it on)

Here is a log of the Idle after its warmed up
Log (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5DbXVrCwQ5FUnk3U281TGpoYWc/view?usp=sharing)

and the current MSQ file
MSQ (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5DbXVrCwQ5FUXMteGRmVHo2Tk0/view?usp=sharing)

after I set the sensors the idle seemed ok but you can see in the log that AFR is off the charts until I floor it. Also you can see the temp creeping up this could be that the fans need to kick in sooner or more likely its more down to me having the hood closed and the car not moving.

Also the CL idle is green even with that high AFR, however my graph should want the afr to be around 14.7 so despite the VE table being for a SC car it looks like it might be off.

Update I think I've got all the constants right so I'm just going to do a few passes with ve analyze live and see what happens to that AFR

BlitzWing
04-15-2015, 02:40 PM
just thought I'd do a little update. I paid for the full edition of tunerstudio... best idea I've had all year.

I had to play with the AEMs settings a bit more they finally come close to matching the MS2's AFR gauge and with that done I re-tuned my idle and ran VE analyze live a few times for about an hour every night after work. Worked like a charm my afr's are looking great.

Also used the WUE tool as well but might need a few more passes to get that set perfectly but so far its turned cold starts into a much less painful experience.

All in all it's basically turned this car into a smooth sounding, smooth running project again. Still need to get its MOT done so its all legal again but very, very happy with the progress.

kung fu jesus
04-15-2015, 03:41 PM
Gotta love your determination! Nice work!

BlitzWing
04-16-2015, 03:52 PM
Tonight after tuning the WUE curve I took it for a sneaky run to the next village and back.... totally different car to what I got from Blendini. Power is constant, idle is smooth as silk, cold starts no longer take any input from my right foot to help start it. It just feels right. Just need to book it in for its MOT and its back in action.

Then its onto Blendini, I'm tempted just to take the £250 in cash then just dump the full email log, videos(before and after etc) and basically nuke their rep from orbit. I have yet to bring my far better self tuning up or the legal threats to myself on MX5nutz as they are monitoring so I plan just to dump it all at once and let it sit and see what happens.

BlitzWing
04-20-2015, 04:34 PM
well it failed the MOT... but the good side is that its nothing to do with the engine. It failed the handbrake test and the drivers door lock failed. The handbrake test is no shock the rear pads were almost gone and the door lock has been dodgy since I got it. So with all things considered I'm calling it a win. Just going to give them the ok to do whatever and I'll ask if they can get a matching set of EBC green pads for the rear if not I'll buy a set and let them do it.

Satisaii
04-20-2015, 06:49 PM
They test door locks?! 95% of the time I don't bother, would rather have people looking through it rather than slashing the top to get at my $2 USB charger.

Come to think of it, I have not locked the doors on my daily since I bought it nearly 2 years ago.

BlitzWing
04-21-2015, 02:06 AM
well this is the thing my locks suck as in I cant unlock the drivers side door from the inside. So its a safety thing encase of a fire etc.

you can still get away with a ton of stuff and the cops wont pull you over just for a light... but you will have to fix it come test time. I'm actually ok with that rule. Its when they get funny about import rules vs domestics (imports get away without running any sort of cat if its before 1994) My current test centre know my cars quirks and I've been going to them since I think 2005 maybe longer.

BlitzWing
12-11-2016, 12:15 PM
So it's been way over a year since my last update and I thought I'd give an update...

Blendini never got back to me and never took me to court and the review is still posted on MX5Nutz last I checked.

The car itself is running better then ever. The guys over at Autotronix took my base map and worked their magic on it. it's now around 180Bhp without the reduction pulley. So it's totally sound and quicker then ever. It did have a minor boost leak but nothing a new coupler could not fix.

So plan is to get a new clutch, bigger injectors, an intercooler and some TDR pulleys. and try and hit 210