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Chops
09-11-2012, 06:54 PM
So I've installed an NB 4M30 head unit into my BRG and it works fine. The only thing is, the illumination doesn't work when I turn the parking lights and headlights on. The back lighting on the LCD display works perfectly fine, but goes out when the parking lights are turned on.

Has anyone here done this, and if so, how did you get the illumination to work?

Apparently, the clowns over on that other forum **cough** M.net **cough** don't want to help out.

Many thanks in advance!

http://charlest.zenfolio.com/img/s2/v60/p1095734360-5.jpg

atank
09-11-2012, 07:55 PM
Is this your model and part number?

Model No: MDT031U2
Part No: GD7C 66 9R0

Chops
09-11-2012, 08:13 PM
The model # is MDT030U2. Not sure of the part #. It's same head unit as the 4M32, just out of different model cars. Mine actually came out of a '98 626.

atank
09-11-2012, 08:25 PM
OK, so the head unit illumination is going completely out when you turn on the parking/headlights, does the illumination work with the switch on? I read your other post on the other site.

Chops
09-11-2012, 08:33 PM
There's no illumination at all, with the lights on or off, and only when they're off does the back lighting of the display light up. It was the same with the 4M32 I first had.

atank
09-11-2012, 08:41 PM
OK, so your other radio was doing the same thing, if so it may be a short in your existing wiring, have you traced the radio wiring back to the fuse block?

Phatmiata
09-11-2012, 08:46 PM
Wow that's a clean looking install. !! Would look cool if you fill that blank spot with a KGW Starter panel.

I would also ask toolman on the local board about the lights too, he has rebuilt several factory radios and even done bulb color swaps on his.

Chops
09-11-2012, 08:50 PM
It's not a short. What it is is a slight wiring difference between the NA harness and the '99-00 NB harness. The original NA head units either used a different pin for illumination or those head units didn't dim at all.

Chops
09-11-2012, 08:55 PM
Wow that's a clean looking install. !! Would look cool if you fill that blank spot with a KGW Starter panel.

I would also ask toolman on the local board about the lights too, he has rebuilt several factory radios and even done bulb color swaps on his.

Thanks Randy. It looks even better now since I replaced the bezel with an actual DIN sized '97 bezel.

I have plans for that blank spot. It's going to have a couple gauges in it and possibly a couple switches and/or buttons on a nice aluminum panel.

atank
09-11-2012, 09:00 PM
OK, here is a link to all the Miata audio pinouts, maybe you can find the difference: http://mazda-speed.com/faq/audio/ I agree with Randy that is a very nice and neat install, love the heat and air install also!

Phatmiata
09-11-2012, 10:12 PM
Im old school, so i would do something like this in that blank area http://www.rspeed.net/RSpeed_KG_Works_Starter_Switch_TYPE_D_p/na0-56781.htm

No sense in extra gauges unless you are running boost IMHO, heck im boosted (S/C) and dont have a boost gauge installed, LOL

Vash
09-17-2012, 11:05 AM
Hello,
When I installed a Protege 4M32 unit to my 91', I simply attached pin# 14 on the rear plug to a existing dim wire for my crush pad gauges( which in turn is spliced into the ashtray light dimming wire), now the radio will light up/dim in conjunction with the rest of dash. As for which pin being pin 14, this post shall help:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=113062

Hope this helps!

Phatmiata
09-30-2012, 08:51 AM
Charles, make sure to post this info in your build thread on here so it does not get lost, it took me a good bit to find this thread again.

Anyhow, I am wondering since you did this have you considered swapping out the NA Compressor for an NB compressor? Its a superior design because of its higher efficiency (specifically designed to R134-a refrigerant ) vs our older and (converted) NA6/8 cars. This would be a great advantage due to having less engine load, and its a lighter weight too!! (I was told the NB version is 11-lbs lighter) :shock: All you NA6 guys know what im talking about too, kick on the A/C and you loss engine power right away! :fp:

I know they are doing these swaps in Japan now because finding OEM NA parts in good used condition is becoming hard to find as they export most of their old cars. Cars are considered a "Classic" in Japan in only 10 years so it becomes expensive to keep a classic car there, vs here in the USA where we don't get a classic title until 20 years, and there are no extra costs/fees to keep a classic here in the USA vs Japan.

roy obanion
09-30-2012, 09:07 AM
The model # is MDT030U2. Not sure of the part #. It's same head unit as the 4M32, just out of different model cars. Mine actually came out of a '98 626.

I had the same issue with a 96 626 stereo I used in my 95...

Phatmiata
09-30-2012, 10:59 AM
I had the same issue with a 96 626 stereo I used in my 95...

I think the ones from the MPV were plug and play ready, but those are the double DIN so they take up too much space.

Vash
10-02-2012, 10:40 AM
Hi Phat, my understanding is that all compressors are Denso Tv12 series between NA and NB. The differences are minimal and more importantly, a 90-93 R12 car will require 94-97 R134a suction/discharge flex lines to properly seal. I found this out the harder way when attempting to use a compressor out of 97' in my 91' Yukimura. as soon as pressure builds ,it will blow the o-ring as the clearance was excessive. I stayed with 90-93 R-12 compressors as the result( however charged system with R134a)

On the other hand, I did manage to reduce the drag the compressor present to the engine: the manual I have claims that 5oz of PAG100 oil is needed and instead of doing that, I gave the system 4qt of PAG100 and 2oz of ICE32 friction reducer. I also intentionally undercharged the system with only 16oz of R134a to reduce peak high-side pressure. Resulting in :ambient temp 95 degrees F, ac setting at "2", Idling, vent temperature-44 degreeF. Moving, 30mph or higher speed, the vent temp can reach 40 degrees F or lower! All while largely reducing engine drag since the high pressure side is only 150-170 psi. Far better then my original 20oz R134a charged system when I bought the car 2 years ago that could reach 220-250 psi, and never gets very cold.


Charles, make sure to post this info in your build thread on here so it does not get lost, it took me a good bit to find this thread again.

Anyhow, I am wondering since you did this have you considered swapping out the NA Compressor for an NB compressor? Its a superior design because of its higher efficiency (specifically designed to R134-a refrigerant ) vs our older and (converted) NA6/8 cars. This would be a great advantage due to having less engine load, and its a lighter weight too!! (I was told the NB version is 11-lbs lighter) :shock: All you NA6 guys know what im talking about too, kick on the A/C and you loss engine power right away! :fp:

I know they are doing these swaps in Japan now because finding OEM NA parts in good used condition is becoming hard to find as they export most of their old cars. Cars are considered a "Classic" in Japan in only 10 years so it becomes expensive to keep a classic car there, vs here in the USA where we don't get a classic title until 20 years, and there are no extra costs/fees to keep a classic here in the USA vs Japan.