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View Full Version : Expired 949racing Xida extra height bushings.



xjdesertfox
11-12-2012, 07:36 PM
Anybody have the extra height bushings from their xida's and are not using them? I need to raise my car up to a more functional height, but cant find my bushings for the life of me. I only need 2 for the rears.

If anybody could help me out I can compensate you for shipping/your time.

VagaXt
11-12-2012, 10:05 PM
Just curious, what is your ride height measured at the pinch welds?

xjdesertfox
11-13-2012, 01:47 AM
Just in case youre thinking I already have the included 4 on my shocks, I dont. I never got to putting them on my car and lost them.

Im at 3.25" front most of the pinch, 3.5" rear most of the pinch. But at 3.5" rear, I still have preload on my springs, and I want to raise my rear up to about 3.75" or maybe even 4", and I dont want to preload the springs anymore than they are.

This is at full droop. (yes I know I need to change how my misalignment spacers are to get the link more vertical =D )
http://i559.photobucket.com/albums/ss35/xjdesertfox/20121011_195843.jpg


Sonny, can you guys sell me just another pair of those bushings? Or maybe 4 of them? If so, how much?

xjdesertfox
11-13-2012, 01:51 AM
if you look at the two sharpie lines on my coilover threads. The lower sharpie line is where the springs have zero pre-load. So I've pre-loaded the spring up about the perch's height in order to get the height I have. I'd have to be at 3.25" pinch rear to get zero preload on the coilover with no bushings.

Roadster Dave
11-13-2012, 10:43 PM
I think you have enough grease on there.

xjdesertfox
11-14-2012, 12:33 AM
They wouldnt stop squeaking lol.

sdemo45
11-14-2012, 01:25 PM
you have zero preload on your main springs in that picture. the only thing "loading" the main spring is the helper spring. I think youre entirely confused about what you want.

why do you want zero preload?
what do you think this gains?
why do you think your endlink should be more vertical?
at compression, your endlink bolt will be at an even more extreme angle and could possible shear (ask me how I know).

take out the endlink spacers. adjust the spring perch to your desired ride height and stop assuming spring pre-load is "bad."

wannafbody
11-14-2012, 02:47 PM
Your ride height seems really low to me.

xjdesertfox
11-14-2012, 07:33 PM
I don't want zero preload. I was mentioning the marks for zero preload simply to show where the spring would be in relation to the shock body.

I never said i wanted zero preload. I don't know if youve ever used a dual rate coilover, but if i simply set my ride height to where i want it, it could potentially cause my helper springs to be worthless.

By running the endlinks at an angle you then risk breakage. You want them as vertical as possible at ride height with zero binding.

sdemo45
11-14-2012, 10:09 PM
Yes, I understand the sway bar pivots vertically and the endlinks, as a result, should also work be as vertical as possible. That being said, if you allow the top endlink bolt to stay at that angle, you're risking breaking the bolt when the suspension compresses. Visualize it - it can only pivot so far before it shears.

And yes, I've run a coilover system that utilizes helper springs. My other car has had KW V3s installed for 70k miles. These coils are not "dual rate," as dual rate systems have two springs, stacked... one of a lower rate than the other (200lbs and 500lbs, for example). Helper springs are typically only about 40lbs - just enough to keep the main spring seated when at full droop.


So I can understand: You dont want to preload the springs anymore, but they're not currently preloaded as it is. You could raise the spring perch another 3/4" without preloading the main spring, thus negating your "need" for extra height bushings. The helper springs are only useful for people low enough that the main spring would come unseated at full droop. If your ride height is such that the helper springs arent necessary, then they arent necessary... it doesnt compromise the function of the suspension.

I digress, the only reason to add the additional ride height spacers is to regain more droop travel at a given ride height.

wannafbody
11-14-2012, 11:03 PM
I think those tender springs are about 150# on Xidas.

sdemo45
11-14-2012, 11:27 PM
nfw. they look tiny. still, they hardly constitute a dual spring setup.

VagaXt
11-14-2012, 11:42 PM
I digress, the only reason to add the additional ride height spacers is to regain more droop travel at a given ride height.

Yes, that is the idea assuming he doesn't change his spring perch position after he adds the bushing (maintains same ride height as before). Effects of this are that he maintains full damper stroke, gains damper droop travel equal to the thickness of the added bushing, but loses bump travel equal to the thickness of that bushing.

In addition, if desertfox readjusts the spring perch to maintain the same preload as before he adds the extra bushing in the rear, he gains the extra ride height equal to approximately 1.5 times the thickness of the bushing he added.

VagaXt
11-15-2012, 12:01 AM
Sonny, can you guys sell me just another pair of those bushings? Or maybe 4 of them? If so, how much?

I will ask Emilio tomorrow to give a price on the bushings.

Also, I would suggest not adding bushings to the front shocks. Since you want 4-4.25" ride height in the front and 4.25-4.5" in the rear, the fronts do not require very much preload to achieve that goal. Of course I assume you have a 2300-2400lb car with driver. Adding bushings in the front will only take a bump travel. Also the droop travel in the front should be sufficient.

VagaXt
11-15-2012, 12:01 AM
I think those tender springs are about 150# on Xidas.

Correct. 2" free length and 1" block height (at coil bind).

xjdesertfox
11-15-2012, 12:37 AM
I will ask Emilio tomorrow to give a price on the bushings.

Also, I would suggest not adding bushings to the front shocks. Since you want 4-4.25" ride height in the front and 4.25-4.5" in the rear, the fronts do not require very much preload to achieve that goal. Of course I assume you have a 2300-2400lb car with driver. Adding bushings in the front will only take a bump travel. Also the droop travel in the front should be sufficient.

Perfect. Yep i was just gonna add them to the rears. And thats about the height ill be raising my car up to.

949 Racing
11-15-2012, 10:45 AM
Perfect. Yep i was just gonna add them to the rears. And thats about the height ill be raising my car up to.
The helpers must be bound when at static ride height in order to work properly. You do not want the helpers active when the car is at rest.
They should only become active when the damper is near full droop.

We are now recommending all installation use the double stacked lower bushings but that is simply for increased droop travel.

Just send us an email and we'll get you some bushings.

xjdesertfox
11-15-2012, 02:14 PM
The helpers must be bound when at static ride height in order to work properly. You do not want the helpers active when the car is at rest.
They should only become active when the damper is near full droop.

We are now recommending all installation use the double stacked lower bushings but that is simply for increased droop travel.

Just send us an email and we'll get you some bushings.

Yep, got it emilio ;) Shooting an email your way! Thanks.