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View Full Version : MSM gurus, report to this thread, ........ Please :) brain teaser inside



ZQQMIN
04-02-2013, 12:26 PM
ok, when i purchased the car its had the current issue of bogging down after a rev . which i was told had always been like that and then was told "how to drive it" when coming to a stop you have to follow the car down to 1000 rpm before depressing the clutch, or it will bog down and back up a few times and possibly shut off, if it doesn't shut down it will then find its natural idle.

this cannot be normal, and after I'm thinking MAF. i checked codes and guess what MAF was one, so i reset and it popped up later but ONLY after gettin into it from a stand still puttin the shifter through the gate, 1st through 3, a loud , POP POP POP POP ... then engine light. BUT letting out of it it ran normal .

checked the CEL and it was the MAF . i didnt reset it , but it did itself after being cycled a few times. as wierd as it may sound i dont like it at all BUT ive gotten used to it and didnt want to replace it for a few reasons . Im not 100% sure its bad , as it corrected itself, maybe it just cant read that amount of air blasting through it under hard acceleration, and the fact i may go to MAF delete once i learn more.

BUT , here more recent.. the reason for finally just sitting here and typing this all out is due to whats also going on now in conjunction with the bog down issue. just to be clear .. ( both these problems happen no matter whether cold or operating temps)

now, to the issue: if sitting still it idles fine, but once clutch is depressed ( still idling normal) once placed into gear , ANY gear 1-6 or R. it revs up approx 400 rpm all by itself,

if you go back to N, idle comes back down...now that i have a coupound problem i figured id rack some of the GURU's brains, there seems to be quite a few guys here that know their stuff.

( i was one of those guys on the SE-R forums ;) ) anyways , ANY and all help is appreciated , so i thank you in advance for your input!!!

atank
04-02-2013, 12:52 PM
Is your throttle body inlet tube and diverter valve (BOV) stock?????, if so then they both need to be replaced, the OEM units are rubber and plastic and they both leak. I would say that the "POP POP POP POP" is you hitting the stock rev limiter, its set at 6700 rpm.

SM16RMSM
04-02-2013, 01:17 PM
I do recommend replacing them but that won't cause his issue. I won't be able pin point the issue but I can point you in a direction that could lead to fixing the issue. To me, it sound like the typical BOG symptom that is related to all MSM. When you leave a light, does it just bog and doesn't want to go? Another item to look at is to see if the MAF sensor is dirty. You can buy a can of MAF cleaner and spray the sensor down.

P.S. A video will help show what it is doing.

atank
04-02-2013, 01:26 PM
The bog is caused by a sticking 3-way solenoid valve. See:
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,9885.0.html

For more than you'll care to read about the subject:
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,14858.0.html

ZQQMIN
04-02-2013, 01:33 PM
Is your throttle body inlet tube and diverter valve (BOV) stock?????, if so then they both need to be replaced, the OEM units are rubber and plastic and they both leak. I would say that the "POP POP POP POP" is you hitting the stock rev limiter, its set at 6700 rpm. No Sir , they arent , nothing is stock , other than the block and that has Carillo rods, new bearings and rings about 40,000 miles ago. ... all polished aluminum tube , Turbonetics T3/T4 turbo, 57 trim, HKS SSQ blow-off Valve, Tial wastegate- 38mm
and the POP POP POP POP, HAS A SPLIT SECOND BETWEEN EACH "POP" rev limiter , is a quick "pop" or "rev" (sounds more like , yen,yen,yen,yen on the limiter)


I do recommend replacing them but that won't cause his issue. I won't be able pin point the issue but I can point you in a direction that could lead to fixing the issue. To me, it sound like the typical BOG symptom that is related to all MSM. When you leave a light, does it just bog and doesn't want to go? Another item to look at is to see if the MAF sensor is dirty. You can buy a can of MAF cleaner and spray the sensor down. it will leave the light fine , provided you understand the way a manuaql vehicle works. no bogs or bucking, it has good power, its just .... say your at 3 grand cruising, and u need to come to a immediate stop you press the clutch and brake, or even if you were to just press in the clutch , it will bog down , and possibly die UNLESS you follow it down IN GEAR to 1000rpm.. i was planning on cleaning it , but i havent done so yet, any particular brand cleaner u recommend ?

P.S. A video will help show what it is doing. good idea and i will certainly see if i can make that happen... Thanks Guys !!!

ZQQMIN
04-02-2013, 01:34 PM
atank... thanks for the link , but all i get when i click on either .... Not Found

The requested URL /forum2/in...c,14858.0.html was not found on this server.
Apache/2.2.3 (Red Hat) Server at www.mazda-speed.com Port 80

bigx5murf
04-02-2013, 01:43 PM
clean bog solenoid

SM16RMSM
04-02-2013, 02:18 PM
it will leave the light fine , provided you understand the way a manual vehicle works. no bogs or bucking, it has good power, its just .... say your at 3 grand cruising, and u need to come to a immediate stop you press the clutch and brake, or even if you were to just press in the clutch , it will bog down , and possibly die UNLESS you follow it down IN GEAR to 1000rpm.. i was planning on cleaning it , but i haven't done so yet, any particular brand cleaner u recommend ?

No Sir , they arent , nothing is stock , other than the block and that has Carillo rods, new bearings and rings about 40,000 miles ago. ... all polished aluminum tube , Turbonetics T3/T4 turbo, 57 trim, HKS SSQ blow-off Valve, Tial wastegate- 38mm
and the POP POP POP POP, HAS A SPLIT SECOND BETWEEN EACH "POP" rev limiter , is a quick "pop" or "rev" (sounds more like , yen,yen,yen,yen on the limiter)

Saying if I know the way a manual works is a understatement. I race Miatas and I have a MSM for a daily driver, one has a 5-speed and the MSM has the 6-speed version. Are you running a stock ECU by any chance? Any piggyback system or fuel management at all? How much boost are you running? Stock MAF can only handle something like 14 or 15 PSI before the are unable to read and/or damaged. Also, if your running the stock ECU, the ECU can't handle the changes that have been made and it most likely the point of the issue. It might even be that it getting to much fuel and that is causing it to have the pop pop sounds. like it backfiring. As for MAF cleaner, I recommend CRC MAF Cleaner. That is what I use.

bigx5murf
04-02-2013, 02:59 PM
What kind of fuel mgmt?

ZQQMIN
04-02-2013, 05:52 PM
Saying if I know the way a manual works is a understatement. I race Miatas and I have a MSM for a daily driver, one has a 5-speed and the MSM has the 6-speed version.( TRUE , maybe i wasnt as clear, i dont know if wording it as ... the "FUNDAMENTALS" or "DYNAMICS" of how a manual / stick shift work. or maybe letting MRN(Mazda Roadster.Net) know that ive been driving/ riding vehicles with clutches since i was 5, however you not knowing me , i do see your point.). Are you running a stock ECU by any chance? yes i am. I cant decide if i should just go Hydra or back tio the Apexi piggy back fuel mgmnt/ Boost cntrlr. or any other piggy back for that matter. Any piggyback system or fuel management at all? No, not since ive had it , BUT it did have the Apexi safc and theAVC-R, but those have been removed before i purchased it so i dont know how it ran WITH them How much boost are you running? about 7psiStock MAF can only handle something like 14 or 15 PSI before the are unable to read and/or damaged. Also, if your running the stock ECU, the ECU can't handle the changes that have been made and it most likely the point of the issue. this is definatly a concern and and the part the reason im thinking about puttin the apexi stuff back in , that and the fact that the sub harness for them still seems to be in tact. It might even be that it getting to much fuel and that is causing it to have the pop pop sounds. like it backfiring. it does sound like backfiring BUT from the engine bay not the exhaust. I WILL say from time to time i DO get a "POP" from the exhaust from time to time, just going through the gears, normal driving NOT getting into it. doesnt seem to be an issue however id like to know if im shooting a flame ( i cant tell from the drivers seat) As for MAF cleaner, I recommend CRC MAF Cleaner. That is what I use. i use CRC products all the time, "lectromotive" contact cleaner, "BRAKLEEN" , "carburetor cleaner", etc. i dont think ive EVER come across thier MAF cleaner. ill look into that tomm. after i send the guys to lunch.. Hey , just so you guys/girls know i appreciate the time taken to help another out . so again , i say THANKS...

ZQQMIN
04-02-2013, 05:55 PM
What kind of fuel mgmt? STOCK ECU , at the moment.... read above in Blue. I hope that is easy to understand we use that method at work , so you can get an idea of whats being answered without constantly scrolling, it also helps me as i can answer each individual question as its easy to read , its right there, not having to try to remember exactly the way it was worded ect.

bigx5murf
04-02-2013, 06:21 PM
STOCK ECU , at the moment.... read above in Blue. I hope that is easy to understand we use that method at work , so you can get an idea of whats being answered without constantly scrolling, it also helps me as i can answer each individual question as its easy to read , its right there, not having to try to remember exactly the way it was worded ect.

well symptoms sound like either the infamous BOG, or a vacuum leak

ZQQMIN
04-02-2013, 07:56 PM
YEA, im working on replacing all (or most of ) the vacuum lines as that was the first thing i was thinking. i found one that seemed brittle and was reason to start counting linear feet and diameter... the infamous BOG im not aware of,.....yet here comes da search !

SM16RMSM
04-02-2013, 10:25 PM
( TRUE , maybe i wasnt as clear, i dont know if wording it as ... the "FUNDAMENTALS" or "DYNAMICS" of how a manual / stick shift work. or maybe letting MRN(Mazda Roadster.Net) know that ive been driving/ riding vehicles with clutches since i was 5, however you not knowing me , i do see your point.).

No hard feeling. I been driving and racing since I was 11 so I pretty good behind the wheel. You could be just as good too.


yes i am. I cant decide if i should just go Hydra or back tio the Apexi piggy back fuel mgmnt/ Boost cntrlr. or any other piggy back for that matter.

The Hydra is overpriced and not worth it. There is a limited amount of support and it very hard to find a tuner locally for one. You will have to ask a few tuners to see what aftermarket ECU they can tune. Hydra is 95% of the time not on the list. Just in Orlando, I found one shop that can tune a Hydra but they charge extra since it very difficult for tuning. For a good standalone ECU, look into MegaSquirt. Best bang for your buck. bigx5murf can chime in a little about Reverent, he has a custom built MS2 Enhanced unit.


about 7psi

That is under stock boost level. The guy who you bought it from must have backed it down since he took the Apexi units out. These units are pretty much out of date. A Stand Alone ECU like the MegaSquirt can do way more than the Apexi units. The Apexi Safc tricked the ECU to bump the fuel curve up with the increase amount of air. The Apexi AVC-R was a boost controlle. Booth can be replaced by a fully customized MegaSquirt unit. And, you can get a MegaSquirt from Reverent much cheaper than buying the two Apexi units.


this is definatly a concern and and the part the reason im thinking about puttin the apexi stuff back in , that and the fact that the sub harness for them still seems to be in tact.

From what I can now tell, the main issue now falls on the factory ECU. It the main cause, not the MAF like I thought or the classic BOG symptom bigx5murf is thinking. The factory ECU can't adjust outside the set parameters and it causing the idle to drop below and stall the motor out when slowing down. It can be cased by too big of fuel injectors and the ECU is dumping too much fuel,


it does sound like backfiring BUT from the engine bay not the exhaust. I WILL say from time to time i DO get a "POP" from the exhaust from time to time, just going through the gears, normal driving NOT getting into it. doesnt seem to be an issue however id like to know if im shooting a flame ( i cant tell from the drivers seat)

Again, I go back to what I said above. If your hearing a pop from the engine bay, you could have a intake backfire. I seen this happen a lot when around older generations of American muscle. This is caused by improper tuned ECU and timing is backward, meaning the factory ECU sucks. Period. As for another note, since your running a vent to atmosphere HKS SSQV, you can be dumping metered air and that can also upset the fuel air ratio. It not recommended running a VTA on a metered car unless the MAF is between the BOV and Throttle Body.

bigx5murf
04-02-2013, 10:57 PM
For infamous bog check here.

http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,21621.0.html

ZQQMIN
04-03-2013, 08:37 AM
[QUOTE=SM16RMSM;82917]No hard feeling. I been driving and racing since I was 11 so I pretty good behind the wheel. You could be just as good too. None taken . its easy to assume or just "guess" not knowing the person.... its all good



The Hydra is overpriced and not worth it. There is a limited amount of support and it very hard to find a tuner locally for one. You will have to ask a few tuners to see what aftermarket ECU they can tune. Hydra is 95% of the time not on the list. Just in Orlando, I found one shop that can tune a Hydra but they charge extra since it very difficult for tuning. For a good standalone ECU, look into MegaSquirt. Best bang for your buck. bigx5murf can chime in a little about Reverent, he has a custom built MS2 Enhanced unit. ive read about megasquirt too, BUT either the site hasnt been updated or im missing something. my actual year isnt listed. now i undestand they have to be programed and my year most likely falls in somewhere, but for someone who has no idea, that has GOT to hurt sales.. i would like to know more. as far as the hydra FM claims to have the technical support on lock and is the best thing made ( theyre selling it, theyre NOT going to knock it right?) but i have heard both pros and cons on various forums. i have just got to do more research. unfortunatley where im at isnt like MIATAPALOOZA Fla. ! :.( none the less well get it straight im sure with the help here. i just got the car a few months ago ( i flew to Fla and drove it back to Va. ) and only have been driving occationally, due to the crappy weather but have been driving it daily in the last few weeks as i intended which is why i bought it.



That is under stock boost level. The guy who you bought it from must have backed it down since he took the Apexi units out. These units are pretty much out of date. A Stand Alone ECU like the MegaSquirt can do way more than the Apexi units. The Apexi Safc tricked the ECU to bump the fuel curve up with the increase amount of air. The Apexi AVC-R was a boost controlle. Booth can be replaced by a fully customized MegaSquirt unit. And, you can get a MegaSquirt from Reverent much cheaper than buying the two Apexi units. this car was built in NJ by a tuner/shop, he then sold it to the woman i bought it from. i believe he removed it but im not sure , maybe she did ( she and him are friends, her parents are in Fla. which is where the car was when i purchased it. she now lives up in the Nj area) it was featured in SCC back in 06, but has since been changed a little ( bigger turbo, piping to match etc.) the apexi units i was thinking of only because the wiring is still there plugs and all. that AND because they are "out dated" i can get a really nice preowned set for around 500 shipped. i would just like to see if once that is done that the car "seems" normal being that is what WAS used then... . For the boost , it is read on a Defi guage its usually right at 7 but no more than 8psi



From what I can now tell, the main issue now falls on the factory ECU. It the main cause, not the MAF like I thought or the classic BOG symptom bigx5murf is thinking. The factory ECU can't adjust outside the set parameters and it causing the idle to drop below and stall the motor out when slowing down. It can be cased by too big of fuel injectors and the ECU is dumping too much fuel, as far as i know the injectors are the stock size, i NEED to check and i want to upgrade soon if they are the stock size. im going to clean that air solenoid soon, if anything just to eliminate that and know its "clean"



Again, I go back to what I said above. If your hearing a pop from the engine bay, you could have a intake backfire. I seen this happen a lot when around older generations of American muscle. This is caused by improper tuned ECU and timing is backward, meaning the factory ECU sucks. Period. As for another note, since your running a vent to atmosphere HKS SSQV, you can be dumping metered air and that can also upset the fuel air ratio. It not recommended running a VTA on a metered car unless the MAF is between the BOV and Throttle Body. yea ive seen and experienced it on older muscle as well. that would make sense, about the VTA before the MAF. i didnt build it, and for lack of knowledge it seems ( looks) right. poor excuse but true. i AM learning... i want to to be right . right now its as follows.. air filter intake to MAF to turbo inlet to piping to IC to piping to BOV into engine .. i have another issue thats popped up and it sounds to be the turbo impeller wheel itself and after inspection , im thinking it is. i hear like a whining noise every now and again only seems to happen at around 2000 RPM, whn i took the tubing off i noticed where the wheel and the housing have a tight tolerance as they should , the area looks rough as if the wheel is scraping across it, and there is play in the wheel itself, so i guess its time for some type of rebuild.. i guess it doesnt end does it : )

ZQQMIN
04-03-2013, 08:39 AM
For infamous bog check here.

http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,21621.0.html thank you , ive checked it out and im going to do it whether it needs it on not... just to eliminate it from the equation .. thanks again !

Martin
04-03-2013, 09:05 AM
Not too familiar with NBs, but has the base idle been adjusted down too far?

On my NA if the idle set screw is in too far the car will almost die before the ECU can react and get the idle back up to where it should be. Not sure it this can happen on an NB though.

ZQQMIN
04-03-2013, 09:18 AM
Not too familiar with NBs, but has the base idle been adjusted down too far?

On my NA if the idle set screw is in too far the car will almost die before the ECU can react and get the idle back up to where it should be. Not sure it this can happen on an NB though. i thought about that too... there is a idle screw, BUT i havent messed with it , because it seems to idle normal ( as long as it isnt in gear) ... i could give it a turn and check though... thanks for the input

RyanG
04-03-2013, 09:21 AM
I am going to tell you that your problem is definitely the fact that you have almost none of the stock turbo system intact and you are still using the stock ecu. The stock MSM ecu can barely run the car correctly stock. It will not adjust properly with an entirely different turbo setup on the car and you might be hurting the engine right now.

I would highly suggest going with megasquirt or aem. I have an MS2 enhanced made by reverant over on miataturbo.net. It has all of the same features that a hydra has and they actually work as advertised for about a third of the cost of Hydra. My car runs like stock with A/C and everything. I should clarify I mean like a stock car should run because stock MSM's run like shit.

I really suggest going over to miataturbo and contacting reverant about making you a unit. He offers pro level support for his ecu's too and the unit will be PnP with a harness when you receive it.

ZQQMIN
04-03-2013, 01:10 PM
I am going to tell you that your problem is definitely the fact that you have almost none of the stock turbo system intact and you are still using the stock ecu. The stock MSM ecu can barely run the car correctly stock. It will not adjust properly with an entirely different turbo setup on the car and you might be hurting the engine right now.

I would highly suggest going with megasquirt or aem. I have an MS2 enhanced made by reverant over on miataturbo.net. It has all of the same features that a hydra has and they actually work as advertised for about a third of the cost of Hydra. My car runs like stock with A/C and everything. I should clarify I mean like a stock car should run because stock MSM's run like shit.

I really suggest going over to miataturbo and contacting reverant about making you a unit. He offers pro level support for his ecu's too and the unit will be PnP with a harness when you receive it. hey thanks for the suggestion Ryan . its looks as though im leaning that way . the car (for the most part) runs ok , the engine is fine, its not being "hurt" persay.... however i dont like it when it DOES happen. im going to get with Reverant over on miataturbo.net as soon as i can... thanks again for your inoput

bigx5murf
04-03-2013, 01:11 PM
Hydra does have the legendary FM support, but you're gonna pay for it. In expensive up front costs, expensive replacement of proprietary stuff costs (special wbo2 sensors), and extreme difficulty in finding local tuners. Someone from FL (a state with lots of tuners because there's no smog regulations), could only find one, who wanted to charge way more than the average going price for tuning.

kung fu jesus
04-03-2013, 01:28 PM
Reverent tuned Pfunk's car from Greece while the car was strapped to a dyno in Japan.

SM16RMSM
04-03-2013, 07:10 PM
[QUOTE=SM16RMSM;82917] None taken . its easy to assume or just "guess" not knowing the person.... its all good

ive read about megasquirt too, BUT either the site hasnt been updated or im missing something. my actual year isnt listed. now i undestand they have to be programed and my year most likely falls in somewhere, but for someone who has no idea, that has GOT to hurt sales.. i would like to know more. as far as the hydra FM claims to have the technical support on lock and is the best thing made ( theyre selling it, theyre NOT going to knock it right?) but i have heard both pros and cons on various forums. i have just got to do more research. unfortunatley where im at isnt like MIATAPALOOZA Fla. ! :.( none the less well get it straight im sure with the help here. i just got the car a few months ago ( i flew to Fla and drove it back to Va. ) and only have been driving occationally, due to the crappy weather but have been driving it daily in the last few weeks as i intended which is why i bought it.

this car was built in NJ by a tuner/shop, he then sold it to the woman i bought it from. i believe he removed it but im not sure , maybe she did ( she and him are friends, her parents are in Fla. which is where the car was when i purchased it. she now lives up in the Nj area) it was featured in SCC back in 06, but has since been changed a little ( bigger turbo, piping to match etc.) the apexi units i was thinking of only because the wiring is still there plugs and all. that AND because they are "out dated" i can get a really nice preowned set for around 500 shipped. i would just like to see if once that is done that the car "seems" normal being that is what WAS used then... . For the boost , it is read on a Defi guage its usually right at 7 but no more than 8psi

as far as i know the injectors are the stock size, i NEED to check and i want to upgrade soon if they are the stock size. im going to clean that air solenoid soon, if anything just to eliminate that and know its "clean"

yea ive seen and experienced it on older muscle as well. that would make sense, about the VTA before the MAF. i didnt build it, and for lack of knowledge it seems ( looks) right. poor excuse but true. i AM learning... i want to to be right . right now its as follows.. air filter intake to MAF to turbo inlet to piping to IC to piping to BOV into engine .. i have another issue thats popped up and it sounds to be the turbo impeller wheel itself and after inspection , im thinking it is. i hear like a whining noise every now and again only seems to happen at around 2000 RPM, whn i took the tubing off i noticed where the wheel and the housing have a tight tolerance as they should , the area looks rough as if the wheel is scraping across it, and there is play in the wheel itself, so i guess its time for some type of rebuild.. i guess it doesnt end does it : )

The whining/whistling noise is normal for any turbo car. But if your shaft has play, they yes, it will need to be rebuilt. You won't find a Plug N' Play Megasquirt from DIYAutoTune. Go over to MiataTurbo.net and search for Reverent. He custom builds the MegaSquirts from the ground up using the DIY kits. From there he can build it to any specs you need and set up a general idea tune map. That will get you on the road. From there, find a local tuner shop and have it fine tuned.

Now the only problem is, I don't know what emissions Va have. When you switch over to the MegaSquirt, it won't give you codes and other emissions status. If you have annually vehicle check, you won't be able to pass emissions. You would have to switch back to the stock ECU, stock injectors, and pass inspection. Once that is done, just switch the MegaSquirt back and injectors and your good to go.

ZQQMIN
04-03-2013, 09:16 PM
Reverent tuned Pfunk's car from Greece while the car was strapped to a dyno in Japan. thats AWESOME!!!

ZQQMIN
04-04-2013, 09:22 AM
The whining/whistling noise is normal for any turbo car. But if your shaft has play, they yes, it will need to be rebuilt. You won't find a Plug N' Play Megasquirt from DIYAutoTune. Go over to MiataTurbo.net and search for Reverent. He custom builds the MegaSquirts from the ground up using the DIY kits. From there he can build it to any specs you need and set up a general idea tune map. That will get you on the road. From there, find a local tuner shop and have it fine tuned. the wistling , yes, i love that part, that and the blow off valve between shifts! , but the sound im talkin about isnt normal. its almost like at a certain RPM around 2000 RPM, the wheel is spooled up at a certain speed that makes it slightly vibrate , and if it had play ( which it does) would touch the sides causing the sound, and the interior of the turbo housing to be not as smooth as it should be ( after inspection this was confirmed almost exact) this bothers me for a number of reasons , but mainly the idea of tiny bits of shaved metal entering the engine! so i got to get that taken care of asap. as far as the MS ECU , im thinking this may be the route i go.... im definitely going to look more into it. Guess i should get with Reverent over on miataturbo.net
:lol:

Now the only problem is, I don't know what emissions Va have. When you switch over to the MegaSquirt, it won't give you codes and other emissions status. If you have annually vehicle check, you won't be able to pass emissions. You would have to switch back to the stock ECU, stock injectors, and pass inspection. Once that is done, just switch the MegaSquirt back and injectors and your good to go. i dont have to worry with emissions, hell its one of the only things as far as automotive in the commonwealth! the car laws here suck.... anyways..... i guess my i have a two part question... o would I NOT bei able to see or pull codes, i would assume no , i cant. being that the OEM ECU isnt being used. AND with that does the MS make my OBDII port obsolete ? like for a bluetooth transponder for information ? i imagine i would have to have seperate sensors like WideBand etc. and/or a laptop connected to see anything. im excited to add bigger injectors , ecu, ect. just a lil leary on the ecu part , feel like i dont know enuff, i LIKE KNOWING.... :ebay: so im always searching ( not necessarily on ebay as the icon suggest) just online in general....

RyanG
04-04-2013, 09:56 AM
You will need a wideband and an IAT sensor if you go with MS. You can ditch your MAF. The ECU is intimidating at first if you have never done anything like it before but believe me it is worth it.

I have never soldered or done any kind of wiring and I was able to install the MS2 from reverant on my car all by myself. I DD my car too so this was done over the course of a weekend with the car back on the road and running just fine on monday.

If you like learning new things you can also tune the car yourself. I have gone this route and it is very rewarding. It is also a hell of a lot cheaper then paying a tuner. I do not believe in using shops or tuners for anything that I can do myself because I have heard way too many horror stories. If I do it I know it will be done right and with care. It also adds to my available skill set which I like.

ZQQMIN
04-04-2013, 10:54 AM
You will need a wideband and an IAT sensor if you go with MS. You can ditch your MAF. The ECU is intimidating at first if you have never done anything like it before but believe me it is worth it.

I have never soldered or done any kind of wiring and I was able to install the MS2 from reverant on my car all by myself. I DD my car too so this was done over the course of a weekend with the car back on the road and running just fine on monday.

If you like learning new things you can also tune the car yourself. I have gone this route and it is very rewarding. It is also a hell of a lot cheaper then paying a tuner. I do not believe in using shops or tuners for anything that I can do myself because I have heard way too many horror stories. If I do it I know it will be done right and with care. It also adds to my available skill set which I like. yea i was looking into the Intake Air Temp sensor anyway was reading about the GM one a few have used to replace the MAF. im sure i could do it myself ,wiring, custom items, etc. are right up my alley . granted i dont get to do as much as i used too or HAD too , but none the less i can get right back in the groove . i havent done any ecu tuning myself, but im sure i could with some parameters and maybe some insight from someone who knows, not just "opinions" ... alot of those guys around, its like , " well maybe if you do this" , or , "what if you did that" ... they dont care really, its not their car.... anyways, as far as mechanical ability i got that on lock! . I, myself.... like you , like to learn the new things that add to the skill set and the rewarding feeling knowing not only you did it yourself , but the savings on top of it . That will hopefully allow for another cool part or at the very least the fuel to cruise to a meet where others wait to share their passion as well....

SM16RMSM
04-04-2013, 11:15 AM
the wistling , yes, i love that part, that and the blow off valve between shifts! , but the sound im talkin about isnt normal. its almost like at a certain RPM around 2000 RPM, the wheel is spooled up at a certain speed that makes it slightly vibrate , and if it had play ( which it does) would touch the sides causing the sound, and the interior of the turbo housing to be not as smooth as it should be ( after inspection this was confirmed almost exact) this bothers me for a number of reasons , but mainly the idea of tiny bits of shaved metal entering the engine! so i got to get that taken care of asap. as far as the MS ECU , im thinking this may be the route i go.... im definitely going to look more into it. Guess i should get with Reverent over on miataturbo.net
:lol:
i dont have to worry with emissions, hell its one of the only things as far as automotive in the commonwealth! the car laws here suck.... anyways..... i guess my i have a two part question... o would I NOT bei able to see or pull codes, i would assume no , i cant. being that the OEM ECU isnt being used. AND with that does the MS make my OBDII port obsolete ? like for a bluetooth transponder for information ? i imagine i would have to have seperate sensors like WideBand etc. and/or a laptop connected to see anything. im excited to add bigger injectors , ecu, ect. just a lil leary on the ecu part , feel like i dont know enuff, i LIKE KNOWING.... :ebay: so im always searching ( not necessarily on ebay as the icon suggest) just online in general....

The MegaSquirt won't through codes. You can set it up to flash the check engine light if it starts to overheat or oil pressure drop below a set minimum but that is it. If there is a misfire or a sensor goes out, it won't turn the check engine light on. As for the OBD II port, it useless. To see data from the MegaSquirt, you can use your laptop via USB to Serial cable supplied or you can get a custom made harness to a datalogger and view data on the laptop like after a race. As for a wideband, you can wire it to the MegaSquirt and view that info from the laptop.

bigx5murf
04-05-2013, 01:43 PM
There's also a bluetooth dongle now that lets you use a version of megalog for android. gayphones need not apply

ZQQMIN
04-05-2013, 10:31 PM
There's also a bluetooth dongle now that lets you use a version of megalog for android. gayphones need not apply that's cool.... Ill havta check that out... I've pm'd over on miata turbo. Gonna find out something soon... I hope.

bigx5murf
04-05-2013, 11:06 PM
that's cool.... Ill havta check that out... I've pm'd over on miata turbo. Gonna find out something soon... I hope.

Check diy auto tune for the bt dongle.

ZQQMIN
04-16-2013, 09:24 AM
check diy auto tune for the bt dongle. where is the best place to locate ? Another thread ? Or website ? Google play ?

ZQQMIN
04-25-2013, 09:25 PM
remember in the first post i said and i QUOTE "BUT , here more recent.. the reason for finally just sitting here and typing this all out is due to whats also going on now in conjunction with the bog down issue. just to be clear .. ( both these problems happen no matter whether cold or operating temps)

now, to the issue: if sitting still it idles fine, but once clutch is depressed ( still idling normal) once placed into gear , ANY gear 1-6 or R. it revs up approx 400 rpm all by itself,

if you go back to N, idle comes back down.." WELL... Now ... Yes it still does that BUT.. i noticed if i have the clutch depressed and put it in gear it will rise the approximate 400rpm but then drop to 1000, then rise , then drop, about a second in between.. until you place it back in neutral. i cleaned the the bog solenoid, it was clean , but i went ahead and did the "service" to that along with throttle body cleaned and the maf cleaned. nothin changed other than the rpms at idle are now at 1000 all the time and the idle screw is set as low as it can go. :| while under the hood i was wanting to see if i could actually hear the BOV... guess what ... NO, its like it doesnt work at all , what i thought was the blow off valve is the ever popular turbo flutter.. its a genuine HKS unit. and seems to open if u press within the center, BUT i havent pulled it apart to see if the diaphragm is torn etc. SO . this makes me wonder do i have a vacuum leak ? i checked, there IS vac pressure but i dont know how much , or how much it SHOULD be . However i DO know its a dedicated line from the intake manifold. im wondering now, if it has ever worked properly since ive had it. i havent driven it much or had the time or weather to fully go over it until now... and now i want to drive it.. but i want to get it right first.. i took video BUT you cant hear it to "see" when i place in gear and the revs rise then out of gear and the revs fall. i have a new HKS sequential BOV on the way . hopefully that will fix ONE issue but im still at a loss for the others... :shrug::shrug: sighs.... Im hoping to be sporting a Mega Squirt soon along with a few other goodies.. just the time... ugh . thanks in advance for listening and the advice .. 5am comes early , so nite all !

bigx5murf
04-25-2013, 10:32 PM
where is the best place to locate ? Another thread ? Or website ? Google play ?

Sorry for taking so long to reply, seems I remembered wrong, and the dongle isn't available at diy auto tune, but rather at efi analytic.

http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/cablesandbluetooth

ZQQMIN
04-26-2013, 10:30 AM
Sorry for taking so long to reply, seems I remembered wrong, and the dongle isn't available at diy auto tune, but rather at efi analytic.

http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/cablesandbluetooth oH ITS ALL GOOD, I appreciate you gettin back to me... thanks !!!

RyanG
04-26-2013, 12:48 PM
you should idle around 30-40 kpa for reference

ZQQMIN
04-26-2013, 02:07 PM
you should idle around 30-40 kpa for reference so at idle i should have 30-40 kpa vacuum pressure. or the psi equivalent of 4.35-5.80psi? what SHOULD the idle SPEED be ? _____ RPM ?

ZQQMIN
05-28-2013, 08:08 PM
remember in the first post i said and i QUOTE "BUT , here more recent.. the reason for finally just sitting here and typing this all out is due to whats also going on now in conjunction with the bog down issue. just to be clear .. ( both these problems happen no matter whether cold or operating temps)

now, to the issue: if sitting still it idles fine, but once clutch is depressed ( still idling normal) once placed into gear , ANY gear 1-6 or R. it revs up approx 400 rpm all by itself,

if you go back to N, idle comes back down.." WELL... Now ... Yes it still does that BUT.. i noticed if i have the clutch depressed and put it in gear it will rise the approximate 400rpm but then drop to 1000, then rise , then drop, about a second in between.. until you place it back in neutral. i cleaned the the bog solenoid, it was clean , but i went ahead and did the "service" to that along with throttle body cleaned and the maf cleaned. nothin changed other than the rpms at idle are now at 1000 all the time and the idle screw is set as low as it can go. :| while under the hood i was wanting to see if i could actually hear the BOV... guess what ... NO, its like it doesnt work at all , what i thought was the blow off valve is the ever popular turbo flutter.. its a genuine HKS unit. and seems to open if u press within the center, BUT i havent pulled it apart to see if the diaphragm is torn etc. SO . this makes me wonder do i have a vacuum leak ? i checked, there IS vac pressure but i dont know how much , or how much it SHOULD be . However i DO know its a dedicated line from the intake manifold. im wondering now, if it has ever worked properly since ive had it. i havent driven it much or had the time or weather to fully go over it until now... and now i want to drive it.. but i want to get it right first.. i took video BUT you cant hear it to "see" when i place in gear and the revs rise then out of gear and the revs fall. i have a new HKS sequential BOV on the way . hopefully that will fix ONE issue but im still at a loss for the others...


UPDATE......got the new authentic hks BOV, and still same ole crap! This type of issue is either bound to have happen to someone else, or is right up someones alley for trouble shooting... Please help, or maybe someone knows someone knowledgeable in my area.. That can help... Thanks !

Mazduh
09-17-2013, 09:09 PM
LOL This thread made me chuckle... OP is a newb.

Martin
09-18-2013, 09:36 AM
We were all newbs at one time.