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Demon I Am
04-25-2013, 09:49 AM
I had to leave work early to pick up my son from school, and on the way there the Miata started running a very rough. I am popping a obd1 code 13 and 26. If I try to start the car, it runs rough for a sec then dies.

I have a very shitty internet access on my phone and can't look up the codes, of what's going on. I'm waiting for a tow truck. from what I've seen code 26 is a Pudge solenoid that I'm not sure this car has, and code 13 apparently does not exist according to miata.net

the car does have a 1.8 engine, that has been running great until now

Agent☣Orange
04-25-2013, 09:56 AM
I'm really rusty with OBD1 but if I remember right 13 was for an O2 sensor. Have you been running too rich and clog up your cat?

Sorry, I'm on my phone too with the same Internet slowness.

riefdaddy
04-25-2013, 11:05 AM
FAULT CODES ('90-'93)

1 Ignition pulse (No Igf signal)
2 No Ne signal
3 No G signal
8 Airflow meter open or short circuit
9 Water thermistor open or short circuit
10 Intake air thermistor in airflow meter open or short circuit
12 Throttle position sensor open or short circuit
14 Atmospheric pressure sensor open or short circuit
15 Oxygen sensor <0.55 V 180 sec after 1500 rpm
17 Oxygen sensor unchanged after 1500 rpm
26 Solenoid valve (Evaporative canister purge)
34 ISC Valve

kung fu jesus
04-25-2013, 12:01 PM
Tony, maybe it's code 1, 3, and 26?

Maybe a bad CAS if that is the case.

Demon I Am
04-25-2013, 12:15 PM
I think you are right. It looks like the ground wire sheared off of the connector. Need to source a new cas connector asap

tsingson
04-25-2013, 12:18 PM
Maybe Jason in Apex?

kung fu jesus
04-25-2013, 02:56 PM
I lost one quite suddenly. Drove to work, worked fine, went to leave for the night, it wouldn't fire, just cranked forever. The biggest clue was the tack wouldn't register any RPMs while cranking, so I double checked on my Link keypad, same thing. I used to carry a spare in the trunk after that.

Demon I Am
04-26-2013, 11:41 AM
Bought a used CAS harness and spliced it in line. Everything is running well now. Thanks for the helps!

Agent☣Orange
04-26-2013, 11:50 AM
Good job KFJ!

tsingson
04-26-2013, 12:32 PM
Glad you got it running Tony! Working on the miata. Actually Steven will be swinging by at 4pm to help me finish up. I just need to remove the bottom 3 bolts.

Demon I Am
05-15-2013, 01:06 PM
The car is a 1990, with a 1995 motor, on the old ECU. Lightened 1.6 flywheel/clutch, charcoal can delete, aftermarket header, and that is about it for the mods. I was having issues earlier with codes, but that was due to a broken CAS wire.

I repaired the CAS wire, and the car has been driving well ever since. This morning, I notice severe hesitation and power bogging for the first 10 minutes of driving the car. Once it was warm, the problem was not noticeable. Here is a video of the diagnostic codes. To me, it looks like a code 11, and a code 6. Here's a video:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10201127238403136

Demon I Am
05-15-2013, 01:14 PM
on second look, it might be code 26..

Any other causes for hesitation/bogging while cold, but not warm. I just installed the header this weekend, and am wondering if we may have banged up the cat too much. We had to grind/drill/hammer out a few studs on it, but it did not sound rattly when we re-installed. I have put almost 200 miles on it since the install with no issues. Not sure what is going on..

riefdaddy
05-15-2013, 01:14 PM
I think it is 26. It really can't be an 11 and a 6, since those codes don't appear on an old ECU. If it is a 1, then I would check grounds as your coilpack would be the likely issue. Do you have any issues with the tach bouncing? If so, it is a ground issue you want to resolve before you fry the coilpack.

Demon I Am
05-15-2013, 01:19 PM
I will check that ground, but have not noticed the tach bouncing more than usual (due to the delrin mounts). The check engine light is not lit up during regular driving, only when I put the car in diagnostic mode

WASABI
05-15-2013, 01:26 PM
Just throwing this out there. On some headers, the oxygen sensor is placed further down the pipe, and doesn't warm up as fast, or as well. There was a 4 wire oxygen sensor mod, but I tried it on my '91, and she didn't work so well. Also, how old are your wires? They can cause the hesitation. Good luck.

-Jim

riefdaddy
05-15-2013, 01:27 PM
I'm not sure how much of the new harness you have. There is a ground to the right of the TB on the NA8 harness that is the main culprit on those years. I'm not sure about the NA6.

Demon I Am
05-15-2013, 01:30 PM
Wires are about 3 years old. plugs are 2 months old.

The engine harness is the old 1.6 one.

JLBMX5
05-15-2013, 02:53 PM
Damn Tony I hope this is an issue you can resolve.I have no clue what it could be but would like to know what it is.

Demon I Am
05-15-2013, 03:11 PM
yeah, I have no clue at this point. Some research points to a clogged cat, clogged injectors (but those should be clean), thermosensor (brand new), o2 sensor (should throw a code?)...

JLBMX5
05-15-2013, 03:22 PM
Maybe its the cat. We did beat the shit out of it. Enough to bend that flange. Then all the drilling and crap we did. Maybe save up for a new cat. Like I said before. I've seen high flo for 110.00 that's not a bad price and that's what I plan on getting for my car

riefdaddy
05-15-2013, 07:12 PM
I replaced my cat last week. I got it for $99 shipped. For the NA6 it is $95. This is the company I bought from and I got it in two days from Canada.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-1991-1992-1993-Mazda-Miata-exhaust-catalytic-converter-DIRECT-FIT-/290852606560?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMiata&hash=item43b82a9260&vxp=mtr

riefdaddy
05-30-2013, 10:43 AM
Hey Demon, have you resolved the issue?