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View Full Version : 1993 miata 1.8 swap from a 1994 need help



JLBMX5
09-02-2013, 07:05 PM
This weekend with the help of a couple of members on the forum we did a 1.8 swap on my 1993 Miata. If you look at Raleigh meet thread you can see the progress I had made with the swap.
Now onto my issue. the motor is in everything is hooked up.when I turn the key the motor keeps revving no starting. I listened for the fuel pump and did not hear it. I did not mess with fuel pump and on Friday when I drove car home from work it was working fine. Just after the swap not working so if anyone has had the issue please let me know because after three days working on the car I'm sunburnt and its not even from top down driving :(.

Demon I Am
09-02-2013, 08:46 PM
motor is turning over, not revving. If it was revving, we could fix that.
Things checked, to my knowledge:
Timing is correct.
All wires, grounds connected.
Sprayed starter fluid into the intake while cranking. It tried to fire but stopped, then the battery crapped out.
Fuel lines are hooked up similar to my swapped 1.8. Rear hardline to front of fuel rail, front hardline to rear fuel rail.
**I wonder if there might be some difference in th alignment of the hard lines**

JLBMX5
09-02-2013, 08:51 PM
Tomorrow soon as I get home I'm gonna check for spark as well to see if getting that.I have jumper cables in truck so I can hook them to battery. I just need to get this figured out.

psulja
09-02-2013, 08:56 PM
Have you made sure the fuel lines are set up right?

Firing order of the plug wires good?

Timing all good?

psulja
09-02-2013, 08:58 PM
If you're having issues getting it to fire, while you're trying to figure things out keep the cables hooked up to another car so you don't keep killing your battery.

JLBMX5
09-02-2013, 09:13 PM
Have you made sure the fuel lines are set up right?:

Firing order of the plug wires good?

Timing all good?

Tony(demoniam) had his Miata here that is also a 1.8 swap so we used it to check fuel and spark plug wires. As far as timing goes we made great effort in make sure timing lines were lined up.

psulja
09-02-2013, 09:18 PM
Hmm, well those were the things that were wrong with my 1.8 swap when I first tried starting it. At least the 1st two. But when my firing order was messed up and we sprayed brake clean in the intake it started a fire, so I guess that wouldn't be it lol.

JLBMX5
09-02-2013, 09:26 PM
Hmm, well those were the things that were wrong with my 1.8 swap when I first tried starting it. At least the 1st two. But when my firing order was messed up and we sprayed brake clean in the intake it started a fire, so I guess that wouldn't be it lol.
Any input is help full so that's why I posted because as it is I just look at my car scratch my head and say wtf so as it sits any pointers help.

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 12:11 AM
I was thinking. the only ground I remember having on the whole motor is from chassis to the oil dipstick mount. could that be an issue. maybe I should ground where all the electrical connections for the fueling to the chassis as well ?

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 04:56 AM
Called out of work today took vacation day so soon as I get light out and its not so hot I am going to cheek that ground as well as pull sparkplugs to check if they have spark so if anyone else thinks of something to try just post it and I will keep posting results.

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 05:00 AM
motor is turning over, not revving. If it was revving, we could fix that.
Things checked, to my knowledge:
Timing is correct.
All wires, grounds connected.
Sprayed starter fluid into the intake while cranking. It tried to fire but stopped, then the battery crapped out.
Fuel lines are hooked up similar to my swapped 1.8. Rear hardline to front of fuel rail, front hardline to rear fuel rail.
**I wonder if there might be some difference in th alignment of the hard lines**
I can try swapping the two fuel lines and if it does not work I will swap them right back.

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 07:27 AM
Switched fuel lines. No change. added ground from chassis to the passenger side of car no change. Soon as my brother gets out of bed I will have him help me with the sparkplugs

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 08:02 AM
No spark either wtf

Demon I Am
09-03-2013, 08:05 AM
Are you sure we have the right coil pack on there? We should, as I doubt the wiring connectors would be the same. I wonder if one of your butt connectors on the CAS wiring was not strong enough...

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 08:08 AM
Tony I was thinking maybe that as well because we lifted the valve cover with coil attached might of pinched cars wires in the process but you put electrical tape all over them and I did not know if one of those wires came loose if it would create this problem

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 08:43 AM
Pulled the tape off the CAS and the damn wires just fell out of the butt connectors. I did not like the ones that came with the FM kit and this is why. Now I need to go to advanced and purchase the kind I like because I only have one left.

Demon I Am
09-03-2013, 08:57 AM
yeah that is probably be it. I had my car die out on the highway, after a wire broke from the connector

Martin
09-03-2013, 09:50 AM
Solder & heat shrink

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 11:04 AM
IT'S ALIVE !!! I need to get timing straight but after rewiring CAS my Miata fired right up no hiccup.

tsingson
09-03-2013, 11:15 AM
Congrats!

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 11:54 AM
Thanks. im still scared to drive it more than around my block because of some noises I'm getting but if I do get it strait tomorrow I will come to meet. Right now its dead heat of the day. I look like a damn lobster alleeady so once it cools down out I will take a better look at things plus my car ran a bit. Will let it settle and check for leaks as well.

tsingson
09-03-2013, 12:04 PM
I would recommend solder those connections and shrink wrap them James just so you know that they won't come undone and be exposed.

psulja
09-03-2013, 01:43 PM
Solder & heat shrink

This! I threw out the connectors FM sent right away and just soldered/shrink wrapped everything.

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 03:14 PM
OK just got in from test drive. header rubs on foot well so I stuck a piece of black rubber between header and wall seems to have cured that. I'm loving the drive but it took a lot for me not to really put my foot down. New clutch I want it to last so gonna baby it for a cpl of weeks. That brings me to my next question when I push clutch all the way to the floor and put it in gear. soon as I move my foot a little to release it the car is in gear. I purchased a lightweight flywheel and stage1 1.6 clutch so I guess it pertains to people that have that setup. I did gravity bleed today and it did not change. new master new slave and new 949 extended clutch line installed as well.

kung fu jesus
09-03-2013, 07:48 PM
Gravity bleed isn't always useful. Sounds like there is air in it.

Phatmiata
09-03-2013, 08:00 PM
NC club is gettin 'R' done, let see some photos in this thread so member dont have to search that huge NC meet thread you guys have, LOL

JLBMX5
09-03-2013, 09:01 PM
http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?5403-JLBMX5-1993-Miata-rebuild-build&p=100785#post100785

There is link to my build thread. It has pics :)

It is only one page so not long at all and it shows car when I first got it all of one year ago.

3MiataFamily
09-03-2013, 10:48 PM
Guess i should have followed the thread to page 2...

congrats on solving the problem

Gravity bleed is useless...the hardline from the clutch master goes UPWARDS...then across ..then down to the slave...gravity only drains the second portion of the system...leaving a huge bubble...the Motive power bleeder is the most used tool in the Club tool stash...but not cheap. if you have an air compressor and blowgun, just blow air across the top of the reservoir thru the vent with the bleeder at the slave open...this will force the fluid out of the complete line...being very careful to close valve before stopping airflow and do not let the clutch master run dry. It works...

psulja
09-03-2013, 11:07 PM
Adjust the rod with two nuts on it under the dash at the top of your clutch pedal. giggity. but no, really, adjust your clutch pedal