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View Full Version : Infamously Famous 1.8 Engine Build



EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:07 PM
UPDATED FROM TUESDAY 1/10/2012
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/tracker-1.jpg

http://s4.hubimg.com/u/2803675_f260.jpghttp://bergeronperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/golden-turd-polish1.jpg
rebuilding a 1.8 and a 1.6 for an engine performance and an engine blueprinting class. entire lower end will be complete by december, i'm going to try to pic/vid log as much as possible to make a hopefully moronproof documentary on rebuilding a NA8 or NA6.

so it begins:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0083.jpg
huge thanks to 2ndchanceroadster for the motors. the 1.6 and 1.8 were delivered to my shop for less than $100 each, and we have a 99 head on a NA lower end coming next tuesday for a drift project.

the 1.6 will definately be for sale next summer with all receipts, dyno and balancing records, which will have pic/vid evidence on here as well! possibly the 1.8 unless i decide to swap it in time to rebuild my current one in another class with some form of boost! so stay tuned.

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:08 PM
THURSDAY 9/15 UPDATES

yes, it's friday, i know this. but the work was done yesterday and i'm posting this now. so after uploading like 20 pictures the internet had a infant-shart and i lost all the shit i posted, so here it goes again (i'm going to whore the hell out of these pics).

those of you that http://mazdaroadster.net/images/smilies/z_icon_fap.gif to shit turning to gold will find your porn here, and so there were pics:

the block:
there were literally spiders and animal hair/bird feathers in this thing...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0097.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0099.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0098.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0126.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0130.jpg
and the bearings/caps:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0131.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0132.jpg
by the way the bearings shouldnt look like the walls on a velociraptor tank, in case you were confused.

the head:
i'm not going to lie, it didn't look much better, everything was there, but nicely caked with dirt, rust, and remnants of mamals and birds making nests and bugs and whatever the hell else can fit in a valve cover...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0101.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0100.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0102.jpg
note: the head wont be touched until spring semester so all of these updates will be on the BLOCK and any goodies i buy in preperation for january class.

with the pistons i'm just going to show them from front (accessory side) to back (transmission side) not in firing order. it doesn't matter its a clusterfuck from any angle!

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:08 PM
piston #1:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0123.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0121.jpg
the bearings...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0122.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0120.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0119.jpg</B>

piston #2: this one is frightening...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0118.jpg
see if you can catch it in this photo before the next one explains it...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0117.jpg
no, there are NO FREAKING BEARINGS at all. they are partly welded to the connecting rod and mostly withered away entirely from oil starvation...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0116.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0115.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0114.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0113.jpg</B>
this was by far the ugliest i've seen in a car without a completely broken rod or piston. the scary thing is someone clearly drove on this for a while because the bearing had been long gone enough for the rod to take that much wear and tear.

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:08 PM
piston #3:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0112.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0109.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0111.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0110.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0107.jpg

and piston #4:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0106.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0104.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0105.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0108.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0103.jpg

thats it for this week folks, tune in tuesday night for freeze plugs, power washing, heat washing, chemical washing, and brainwashing.

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:09 PM
so i wont lie to you guys, not a lot of progress today. but it all ads up.

so i started off with this as-big-as-it-gets Circle-K "Extreme-Java" coffee. its an 8 hour class so don't judge me
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0174.jpg

had an unreasonable amount of class time going over stupid stuff like what a thermostat does and how to not be a dumba**. so for my educational section i'll go ahead and enlighten all you guys on what kind of stuff we're working with. this is by all means NOT everything we're using, but just a little taste of the machine shop equipment we have here at our dinky community college that most race teams have to rent the use of or pay others to do for them!

first lets say hello to mister dirtyashell engine block:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0150.jpg
http://mazdaroadster.net/images/smilies/gay.gif

so on my way to pulling this thing out of my workspace we have some cool stuff.

this is our Rottler boring/honing machine:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0158-1.jpg

pretty much puts a finer surface on the inside of your cylinders than any factory specs and tops most race engine shops equipment ability. idk where south OC district got the funding for this... don't ask, don't tell?

and if you thought that was a beast, this is the i-dont-even-know-what-to-call-it machine also made by Rottler, we just call it the Rottler because this is their crown jewel:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0157.jpg

what you do it slap a head or a block on its perfectly level/square/verticle on all axis surface, or even a chunk of solid steel with nothing cud yet, type in your layout information, and this sucker will drill a hole at .00005-.00010" accuracy to the dimensions, and you can put a hole in just about any material known to man in record time, without doing a thing! its like cruise control for fabulousness. i won't even tell you how much this thing is worth because you might be inclined to rent a mack truck to haul this sucker away.

next we have the SuperFlow, one of the nicer user friendly machines for checking out your airflow passages and such:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0156-1.jpg

compared to the Rottler machines this thing is like pocket change, but some shops like to slip these things in there as like "check us out, yea, we can do that". but guess what guys so can i for $26/credit.

here's a good look around the machine shop and miscelaneous tables and equipment around the room:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0154.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0155.jpg

its really quite impressive to see, if any of you are local to mission viejo you should check the place out!

so me and the block had some fun in the sun today, she stripped for me, and i threw her in the sauna.

this is her at the start of the day:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0153.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0163-1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0164.jpg

we had a rough morning, i popped out some of her freeze plugs then got to the two brass HELLA flushed caps in the front and back faces. i went to drill one of them out to slide hammer the thing off and it was like a mile and a half of brass before i got through to the other side:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0150-B.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0151.jpg

the main plugs came out too easily, just a couple taps of a punch and they scooped out like nothing:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0153-B.jpg

when all was said and done, i had more excuses to be a picture whore:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0152.jpg

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:10 PM
then came the purpose of the day, cleaning the block down to nothing, enough to hit it with the magnet and check for cracks. sorry i totally spaced out while testing with the magnet and metal dust, its a neat process, but you guys didn't miss anything because my block is a beast of beasts and has no cracks. 2ndchanceroadster, you're continuing to amaze me with this engine!

this guy did a LOT of work today(3 runs through to strip the fine layers of RTV and silicone i couldn't scrape off myself):
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0172.jpg
so big round of applause to my steamy friend

here's the before and after shots:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0167.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0170.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0168.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0171.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0166.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0169.jpg


then back to the locker room she goes, until thursday!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0173.jpg

i know this all seems boring to all you "OMGz WHERE IS TURBO DYNO TRACK RACECAR DRIFT?!" but to anyone who does this stuff and recognized the mess i picked up for this, it's like turning Courtney Love into a college freshman supermodel. slowly. over a long time frame.

maybe a VERY minor head shave, i'm shooting for 10:1 with 91 octane because CA sucks anus and doesnt sell 93 because our magical air is more precious than the other 49 states.
http://www.gosunoco.com/Images/whats-inside/choose_your_octane.jpg

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:10 PM
here's one more little tid bit of picture whoring...

this is ethan and his NA8C block with a 99 MSM head, this is going to be the drift/track build. he's a miata newb to roadsters but prepare to welcome him to the cult. he knows some of our SOCM people!

you only get to see his purple hands:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0159-1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0160-1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0161-1.jpg

notice how his shit is beautiful and shiny new... but i paid $97.50 shipped for my motor, he paid close to $400. suck it!

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:11 PM
pics as promised, sorry nothing too crazy, but damn it was painful... literally.

i'm not happy to see you today:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0175.jpg

because you're getting a bath with this shit...:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0177-1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0176-1.jpg

leaving the block over the weekend with this stuff caked on at an obscene level, and probably killing all the animal/insect life within range of the fumes until tuesday.

oh and for a little side show, we had some time to learn how to use the boring bar for V motors (works on inline too but this one is designed with a nice angle memory axis to work on a V motor of various degree offsets for perfection).
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0179-1.jpg
the block on the machine is a chevy V8 small block that we sleeved on tuesday because the thing was broken down and submitted to the class with maximum bore achieved prior to requiring a rebuild from us. so we bored it out and smacked in a nice new sleeve. the shop teacher made a whoops on cylinder 3 so we'll be sleeving another cylinder next week lol. i'll try to catch some video footage.

tip of the day:
F*** AIRCRAFT PAINT STRIPPER!

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:11 PM
i haven't completely forgotten about the thread, but the engine has been moving at a snail's pace and i am really just waiting to measure everything, including the new parts once i have them, and then start rebuilding! here's some pics of just how bad the old pistons were, i tried cleaning a few of them up but the solvent tank only does so much, and i'm not re-using them anyway...

before pics:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0242.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0241.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0237.jpg

during pics:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0244.jpg

after pics:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0246.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0245.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0236.jpg

and a rhinoceros:
http://www.naturephoto-cz.com/photos/sevcik/white-rhinoceros--ceratotherium-simum.jpg

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:12 PM
Quote:


Originally Posted by Hella_Rare_Yellow http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/styles/redcarbon/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?p=1026725#post1026725)
Hi! Mr. Question again.

What's the aircraft stripper for? Are you going to paint the block a different color?

Sent from my super cool phone, using my thumbs.




yes! the block head and valve cover are going to be cream white, for hella-bling and for easy fluid/debris detection. and it goes with the theme of my car.

and here's the latest and greatest...

got me a set of 4 of these bad boys:
http://www.solomiata.com/images/gtxrod.jpg
1.8 323 GTX rods (on the right) as opposed to my crappy miata rods (left)

cleaned off my bearing caps and bearings. using the old bearings for measurement only and diagnosis purposes on the bearings... we're going to determine what parts of the oil passages failed and why, then potentially customize the block in a way that mazda wasn't willing to do from factory for cost purposes, and make it perfect.

before:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0317.jpg

after:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0318.jpghttp://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0319.jpg

ordered an entire rebuild kit minus rods, including pistons and every seal/gasket/bearing/everything for the block.

$343.00 school discount (50% off roughly)
http://epwi.net/Upload/Locations/EPWI%20Std%20Logo.gif



sorry for lack of excitement. it will get real on tuesday. the kit is in, everything will be measured and photographed! going to bore hopefully on tuesday, and hone no later than thursday...

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:13 PM
www.epwi.net (http://www.epwi.net/)

your school needs to be enrolled with them though, saddleback community college is one of a few that has access to them. i'd talk to your shop teachers and find out which outfits you're associated with first!

now check my new posts http://mazdaroadster.net/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif as a teaser for tomorrow:

a little bit of this...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0357.jpg

...and guess whats in these little things... looks like christmas presents only BETTAR!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0358.jpg

and this is what i've been doing while i've been waiting for parts and progress on the engine:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0352.jpg
thanks a bunch to Project-G for a fine product and plenty of patience with my impatient-ness

gotta have love for the daily! this engine will be going into her front end when its done.

Quote:


Originally Posted by Hella_Rare_Yellow http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/styles/redcarbon/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?p=1026002#post1026002)
Is that a hot solvent tank? or just a regular? how much scrubbing did you have to do to get the crust off? Did you use a metal brush or plastic? I need details! haha




hot solvent, but its usually cold because some guy always has to be that guy and turn it off early in the class period and it takes forever to heat up. either way the microbes do their job!

Quote:


Originally Posted by Hella_Rare_Yellow http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/styles/redcarbon/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?p=1026006#post1026006)
I just stripped my first block down today and saw the hole to the side of the #4 cylinder and thought it wasn't supposed to be there. hahaha. I freaked till I read this.





yea that hole looks haneous as hell, you should realy do what i'm going to do and "de-burr" the entire block. i'll post pics tomorrow when i finish it myself. basically you just take a grinder tip on a dremel or air-tool and grind off all the odd burrs that mazda was too lazy to shave after casting the block. that hole is an oil passage, and it does look very raw! don't worry mine is just as funny looking

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:13 PM
ok so today was hectic as hell. unfortunately the amount of time invested into hunting down the GTX turbo rods, i lost a lot of work time. first learned for an hour about different style oil pumps, which further illustrated how impractical and inefficient american cars can be versus their import counterparts.

so the older boring bar i intended to use ended up being too big for my block and left me with enough time to kill to go hunting for parts!

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0359.jpg

while i was there i managed to get the last few sets of GTX turbo rods in the shop, that these guys clearly didn't know the value of. took me over 3 hours of class time to track these down and get back to school.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0361.jpg

no pictures to show what miniscule work i got done on the block itself... but i can tell you that the main journals are so small that they dont even fit most of the CAMSHAFT journal spacers so the only machines i can use to bore the thing are the 2 rottlers...

thursday seems promising. i'm like 5th in line for the rottler CNC and until that space is available i'll be balancing the crankshaft that just got reground and finished, as well as receiving my own set of GTX turbo rods refinished, ground and resized. the other 2 sets of rods are for sale in the forums! get em while theyre here... they're true J-Spec rods

Quote:


Originally Posted by Hella_Rare_Yellow http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/styles/redcarbon/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?p=1026010#post1026010)
Sorry for the multi-post. What are these caps, and how did you take them out? What is behind them?

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f341/dstizzzle/Plugs.jpg





sorry i totally overlooked this. i wish i had video taped it as it may be hard to explain. get a chisel and a hammer, place the edge of the chisel on the edge of the rim of the caps, and tap the edge. it should kind of "scoop" out similar to a ice cream scooper, it just kind of rotates out as if on an axis. they can be a pain in the ass, so if one scoops out and slips into the sleeves of the block, dont hesitate to just grab some needle nose pliers and yank it out once its free floating. it wont damage the block, the plugs are just beefy sheetmetal.

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:14 PM
finally! in with some progress and updates!

so today i made a disapointing trip to the shop and found that my GTX rods weren't honed and finished yet so i had to trek back to school and keep on moving.

with some topline pistons in hand began today's work
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0384.jpg

got my final bore size measurements
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0399.jpg

set up the dial bore gauge for the final bore size
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0400.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0401.jpg

and on to the machining. now a lot of you might notice that this is indeed a rottler HONE and not a boring block. the main journals were actually too small for any of our boring blocks, so we litterally had to HONE .040 over.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0385.jpg

after about 20 different attempts at this first one we finally got an accurate .040 over bore on the diamond stones and went to work
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0388.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0387.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0386.jpg


so with cylinder 1 finished we went on to #2...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0396.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0395.jpg

seeing as this one was taking up around 25-30 minutes to take out the 1mm(.040") out, we went on to show you guys the difference between quality pistons and "OEM replacement". keep in mind these are CAST not FORGED and they still show significant signs of quality differences.

on the left is a topline coated piston. it isnt as shiny because of the coating, and is the higher end of the two. the other is an ITM piston. the topline runs about $50 more than the ITM
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0390.jpg

note the height of the topline as opposed to the ITM. it is slightly shorter, has a little less mass in the skirt for weight reduction
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0391.jpg

as well as a finer flat head whereas the ITM is raised in the middle and slightly rougher cast. the edges and lines arent as finely molded
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0390.jpg

the oil-retaining hatching and molded support is much stronger and defined on the topline as opposed to the ITM which has obvious lack of quality in the symetry and detail
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0392.jpg

everything on the ITM looks fine until compared to the toplin. even the dimples and ring seats are more precisely cut and defined on the topline
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0393.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0394.jpg

not knocking entirely on ITM's, theyre a little nicer looking than what came out of the engine, but for the price of the topline upgrade, it's worth looking into the fine details in parts that go in the block. these will mate nicely with some GTX rods as a budget performance build!

oh yea, the hone was still going ... onto #3
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0398.jpg

the machine accurately feels out the surface of the hone as it cuts and will display the roughness in both microns and a oldschool LED display
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0397.jpg

once it is down to the final hone it changes from the 50 rough shown in the picture to as low as 5 rough. i went down to 10 which is spec for mahle rings

and #4 is done and hour and 20 minutes later...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0402.jpg

that ladies and gentlemen is how you hone 1mm of metal off a block lol.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0403.jpg

sprayed down with WD40 and waiting for some love on thursday! possibly balancing the crank as well as weighing the pistons and balancing the rods. expect some number specs and details on measurements soon! all you techs might enjoy my paperwork for all the torque specs and factory measurements

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:15 PM
well EPWI kinda screwed me over by forgetting to order my ARP bolts for the GTX rods so consequently i couldn't balance them and get measurements to balance the crankshaft. everything is way ahead of schedule though, since i've been volunteering for a thursday session of the engine blueprinting class and getting to learn how to do a lot more stuff.

today's progress was mostly honing. now before you go "wait a minute... you just honed it!" let me point out why. up until the past decade saddleback college and the engines class really only handled engines out of shop vehicles which were generally V8s or large V6s and had pretty similarly large bore sizes. therefore all the machinery attachments were ordered in referrence to what had been most popularly been used. the smallest BORING BLOCK BAR was too big to fit through anything smaller than a ford 4.0 V6. so anyone with a main journal smaller diameter than that had to BORE their engine with the HONE block on a different machine. the smallest size diamond stone cutters on the HONING BLOCK were 3.160" so if you had anything smaller than a long stroke 1.8 or most short stroke 1.6s you were screwed... i had to BORE the block using coarse honing diamond stones .040" over, which is actually a relatively large bore. it brings the 1839cc miata block up to a 1929cc block. and once you finish BORING you need to HONE the block to put the finish on the cylinder walls. it would take about 20 sets of piston rings and 20k miles for you engine to work out the cylinder walls to the proper running roughness if you dont hone the block. the HONE BRUSHES for our rottler hone are for a minimum size of 3.490" which was almost 1/4" bigger than my bore so i had to do it the hard way...

in order to HONE the final bore to give it a damn near mirror finish, i had to use the officially named "DINGLEBERRY DRILL BIT" or a.k.a. hone stone drill bit. i apologize for the first few photos here, i forgot to clean the lens on my camera and i took them quickly without notice.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0406.jpg

so a lot of WD-40 and this dingleberry egg beater thing, i went to work
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0407.jpg

it was freakin' disgusting, it splashes oil solution everywhere and theres no good way to do it, it just spins incredibly fast and does a great job at whipping oil everywhere within 50 feet. after i was done i has to check measurements...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0409.jpg

perfect! piston diameter was 3.3060" and the piston to cylinder wall clearance is 0.015-0.020" so with my dial bore gauge set to 3.3075 for minimal spacing, it was dead on within .0001-.0004" which is rediculously accurate

onto the final cleaning. the bores have to be cleaned of the oil solution that now is contaminated with metal flake, dust particles and stone debris from the berry bushwhacker.

4 times so far through each cylinder....
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0412.jpg

nope. need it cleaner....

new rag. 4 more times through each cylinder...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0413.jpg

****... looks worse than round 1-4.

...new rag... 4 MORE times through.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0414.jpg

..................... http://mazdaroadster.net/images/smilies/icon_crying.gif

last try before i burn the building down.

NEW RAG! 6 TIMES through this time just to be sure......
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0415.jpg

gorgeous.

lets see how well it came out.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0420.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0421.jpg
http://www.bigsoccer.com/soccer/jeff-bull/files/2011/08/ohface1.jpg
yep just busted out the O face...

yes it was that good. along comes my professor and he looks at the cross hatch i made. looks at the ground. then looks at me and says, "you are frighteningly excellent at stroking that bore. looks like something has paid off." and yes, i took that as a compliment haha. he thoguht i had done it with the machine!

let's just see that one more time....
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0420.jpg

mmmmmmmmmm. oh and notice the beveled edge on the top of the cylinder wall. it is important that this edge be slightly smoothed over to slip the pistons with installed rings through. if the edge is sharp you will never get them in, but if it is too beveled it will cause long term problems in the combustion chamber and affect gasket seal and carbon deposits. i made it just barelynoticeable.

while i was there i re-polished the top deck and oil pan deck. the discoloration is meaningless, the surface is strong and 100% perectly flat and even all around so no need to deck the block.

left side
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0419.jpg

right side
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0418.jpg

and cleaned and polished the main caps and journals
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0416.jpg

with everything coated in a thin layer of spare 5W-30 to keep rust off i put the block away until tuesday for the GTX rods back from EPWI with fresh ARP bolts and perfectly honed journals.

***on a side note***
some V6 (as well as V8 relevent) knowledge.

in order to balance a crankshaft there is a special machine hooked up to a computer with several monitors that actually detect balance much like a wheels and tire shop, but on a MUCH FINER scale. we're talking down to a gram(the weight of a dollar bill) or less.

for V motors, they have whats referred to as a "splayed crank" because the balance of the crank is not measured based on the load coming from just up and down on one bank. depending on the degree of the banks in the V motor, the crankshaft has to be fitted with special spacers and balancing counterweights and this is what it looks like.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0422.jpg

the weights compensate for the different loads being put on the crank from different angles and balances the crank for the machine to read it properly. its quite an involved process and quite midievil and dangerous haha.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0423.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0424.jpg

i could just imagine mounting this crankshaft to the end of a spear and beating down someone. keep in mind this machine is going to spin the crank at a high RPM to get a solid balance reading. keep all hands feet and other appendages VERY clear lol.

more to come tuesday providing all parts make it in on time!

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:16 PM
so big and small updates today. 5th trip to EPWI and they managed to fuck up one more time. they forgot to walk ACROSS THE STREET to the connecting rod guy and hand him the ARP bolts i bought for the rods, which ended up being the wrong ones, so one week after ordering and being assured that they would be ready, of course they aren't.

http://www.demotivationalposters.org/image/demotivational-poster/1007/murphys-law-20-murphy-law-important-things-demotivational-poster-1279799619.jpg

so the day began with one of these:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0431.jpg

which led to a funny story about a friend of a guy in the class who was retarded and thought that these were octane boosters when they first came out a few years ago. he dumped 2 of the "NOS bottle" ones into his gas tank and you can guess how that turned out. but hey, its HIGH PERFORMANCE man

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0432.jpg

well it worked for my heart rate anyway.

so we didnt even spend a moment past roll call today before hitting the shop. of course the first thing i did was go straight to EPWI to have my connecting rod dissapointment episode, but when i got back i realized that i forgot my key to my locker and needed to run home... so i spent the first 3 hours of a could-be productive day doing useless garbage. well not so useless i went home early to finish painting the E30 and waterproofing the top. she's finally out of my driveway now!

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0430.jpg

got my key, went back to school and jumped on balancing. today was a good day for product reviews and comparison!

so as you can probably recall from my previous posts there was a big visual difference between the ITM and TopLine pistons that me and Ethan had ordered.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0390-1.jpg

well you'll see in just a minute how different they are...

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0435.jpg

not pictured is how much of a pain it was to remove the pins from the ITM piston. mine almost free fell from the assembly with nice lubricated surfaces. the ITMs needed to play tug of war to remove.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0433.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0434.jpg

here's my weight measurements. the goal is to have each PIN + PISTON assembly to weigh precisely the same as the others (within 0.0005g)

#1
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0437.jpg

#2
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0438.jpg

#3
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0439.jpg

....



...............



http://wolves.badwolf.cx/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/argh.jpg

why #3 .... why.

and ...

#3 modified
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0442.jpg

#4
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0440.jpg

they were all almost completely perfect RIGHT out of the box.

and perfect
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0443.jpg

now lets look at the ITMs...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0446.jpg

not a single one was close to the next... even one of the pins was off in weight!!!

the extra $50.00 for the TopLine pistons really paid off. and for those of you who are saying "wait racecar his ITM are slightly lighter than the TopLines... because racecar" but take note mine have break in coating which actually ads a few hundredths of a gram per piston and both sets are hypereutectic which means they are lightweight higher silicon content pistons. the ITMs can clearly be balanced in the same manner that the one i had to shave was done, but unfortunately for the other set, every single one other than the lightest of the batch will have to be modified and shaved to match just a single lightest one. more math involved dealing with piston + pin totals and just a pain in the arse.

so on another note, matt or better known on CR.net as "MarsupialQuadron" came by the shop with a surprise for the build...

http://www.tiptopsigns.com/images/D/ws_jacksonracing.jpg
...i'll leave that there as a hint

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:16 PM
and and and

for those of you that were dissapointed in the thread title looking for the 1.6 action i went and took some pics of the progress. the student is building it to stock specs and doing a great job. aleks at 2ndchanceroadster actually happened to hook her up with a good block where the pistons were still like new and the rods looked mint. so they are getting re-used but everything else is either rebuilt (like the crank) or replaces (seals bearings guides etc...)

here's the 1.6 photos
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0450.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0448.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0447.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0449.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0452.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0451.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0453.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0454.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0455.jpg

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:17 PM
glorious day in the shop. Thursday is the 204 class which is engine blueprinting, a little bit more advanced and more attention to detail than the tuesday auto 104 class, but still working on the same project. so i saved the crankshaft for today.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0472.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0469.jpg

earlier in the thread i talked about the difference between a "rebuild" or "overhaul" from a shop and the rebuild we're undertaking here at saddleback. i also discussed that "factory" specs can also have incredibly high tolerances due to mass production and how it is simply too much attentionm to detail to create a perfect peice if a "near-perfect" product suffices for several thousand miles (if maintained). Today was a great day to make an example of doing things the right way

first i had to measure several radius' and bearing/journal distances to create the 3D computer rendition of the crankshaft so it will recognize what it is twisting as a 1.8 mazda forged steel crankshaft.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0473.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0475.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0476.jpg

so just to educate you all on what happens here, there is a magnetic rod attached to the accessory end of the shaft that is read by the computer to give RPM and balance readings much like a wheel at a tire shop. however, this is balancing to a tenth of a gram, much finer than any rim on a civic. there is a drive bel;t and motor beneath the assembly that runs the crank hooked up to an external switch with an RPM adjustment knob and a killswitch. you have to dial in the RPM to about 1/2 to 2/3 of the desired idle speed of the corresponding car. for this exercise i put it at 550 RPM.

on the first run, you figure out the off-balance characteristics of the crank as-is. it reads out 2 different "radar" screens that basically correspond with each end of the crankshaft. the screen on the left is the accessory end and the right is the flywheel end.

click the image below for a video of the process

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/th_VIDEO0018.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/?action=view&current=VIDEO0018.mp4)

as you can see in the still image, at the top of the screen it gives you a single decimal place # and a degree "<". the balance is off 4.0 grams on the left and 3.6 on the right.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0477.jpg

you really need to spin the crank through 3-5 cycles to get a consistent pattern. the oil on the 2 journals that the crank is spinning on can start to splash and cause imbalance so it needs to be re-tuned every few runs.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0478.jpg

so once i've got it steady 4.0 and 3.6 i go to work. i have to rotate the crank until the screen shows that TDC (top dead center) on the left end is where the imbalance was coming from and away i grind.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0486.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0484.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0487.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0488.jpg

once its ground to where i feel like i've taken some meat off the bone, i run it again.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0478.jpg

this process will go on for about 20-30 cycles until you essentially get it within a gram or less. when we began this class our professor boasted that we would get somewhere around 0.5 grams accurate. i'd say i did pretty well:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0492.jpg

yep, i balances it within 0.1 grams on BOTH ends. for reference, a dollar bill weighs just around 1.0 grams, so imagine 1 tenth of that, off balance equally on both ends of a 40ish pound piece of forged steel. textbook perfect

here are a few photos of the after product, where it was ground and how it looked.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0493.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0498.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0497.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0495.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0494.jpg

that is how you balance a crank!

http://29.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_l7ng4gjVPp1qa5psso1_500.jpg

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:17 PM
for your reading enjoyment http://mazdaroadster.net/images/smilies/gay.gif

there are a few pages to go with this that simply havent been filled out yet. i'll delete this post and renew the thread with anything i update or change to avoid confusion, since these are written notes that might inherit some more writing between now and the summer

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/t1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/t2.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/t3.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/t4.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/t5.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/t6.jpg

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:18 PM
Today was pretty successful. got the con rods in FINALLY and put them to the scale. they were fair for being used parts, but when i was through with them they were 100% balanced perfectly! first i balanced the large hole end because its precision is most important for crankshaft travel. then i balance the small end to bring each rod to identical weight. i'll let the pics do the rest. enjoy!

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0505.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0506.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0507.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0513.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0508.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0509.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0510.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0512.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0518.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0514.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0515.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0516.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0517.jpg

and heres the final pics so u can see where i ground and how it looks

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0519.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0520.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0521.jpg

the bottoms have been balanced because they are the biggest chunk of meat to toss around from the crankshaft.

just think of the travel pattern of a connecting rod. the lower end gets tossed around in the radius of the crankshaft's stroke, where as the small top end is just a pivot point for the wrist pin. its rotational balance at the wrist is irrelevent to the balance of the engine RPM. once the larger end is balanced to each other rod to ensure perfect crankshaft rotational balance, the rest of the rod needs to be balanced to match the weight of the others. by taking off the top surface of the wrist pin hole it reduces weight enough to level out with the others, which SHOULD NOT exceed more than a few thousandths of a kg.

if you look at the paper i wrote down all the measurements for final balance on, you'll notice the actual weight of each rod was relatively close.

1) 0.5215kg
2) 0.5270kg
3) 0.5270kg
4) 0.5240kg

to take off enough just to make the heavier two equal the weight of the first one is 0.0055kg, which is only a few microns of forged steel off the surface. i actually ripped a little too much off the first one and brought it down to 0.5205 which i proceeded to shave them all down to. it took no more than a few seconds on the stationary belt sander to get to that number.

to specify why the top rather than anywhere else is precisely this: farthest point from most necessary balanced point and no structural integrity lost

in order for the top of the rod being weakened to have any effect on strength of the 4 stroke motor you would have to require a pulling motion to occur where the rod or piston pull in opposite directions. the piston will never pull the rod upward, so material taken from the very top of the rod is minimal in losses. the only time the rod may pull the piston downward is during an intake or exhaust stroke where it may have misfired or acted out of norm. otherwise, whenever the piston is coming down on a stroke, a force within the combustion chamber is forcing it down onto the "rod" of the connecting rod (towards the bottom of the rod, or the crankshaft), and whenever the piston moves upward in a stroke, it is due to the crankshaft forcing the rod up into the wrist pin of the piston. during pushing motion, which should be the only force in an internal combustion engine, the strength of the connecting rod relies solely on the rod itself between the holes, and the balance of the rod on the cranshaft to provide smooth running conditions.

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:19 PM
okay so today was a jumble of epic fail. nothing "bad" happened, just nothing went as planned.

so of course the day started kind of the way every day starts...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0528.jpg
caffeine rush/sugar high and engines.

so i got stoked because the rottler CNC has a waiting list and the two people in front of me are flakey as hell. one was in class and the other was absent, and the guy occupying the machine at the moment was just about to dismount his block. in case you're confused it's this thing:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0157.jpg

it is exactly what sensei KFJ said, its a 3-axis CNC machine, its accurate within 0.0005 inches to move on its own and you can do all sorts of things with it. it can re-bore the engine to the factory blueprint and essentially "fix" the imperfections from the crappy casting job of the factory machines.

it can bore, hone, and re-surface the gasket edges or "deck" a block or head. i personally just need to deck the thing because i already bored and honed using other machines.

well, the way it all went down today was the guy on the machine comes and says "hey the other guy took off and the one after him never showed up so your next" so enthusiastic as i was i helped him pull the block and proceeded to get mine ready. then came break time. 11http://mazdaroadster.net/images/smilies/icon_3nodding.gif0

so i come back to find that after prepping to use the machine, absentee #2 comes back and without any courtesy to say so he just jumped on the vacant machine. so ****.

i took the time to go and get the cosmetic things for painting the block as i wont have class time on thursday for the holiday so i will have anything to do until next week. picked up masking tape, 2 different colors, and some brushes to detail the cast marks. i literally spent like an hour and half just taping the thing off so i wont get paint in any threaded holes, gasket surfaces, coolant/oil lines, or guide holes. i'll let the pictures narate the work and hopefully next tuesday will be a much more productive day!

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0530.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0531.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0532.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0533.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0536.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0535.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0534.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0538.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0537.jpg

just a brief explaination of what details i made a point of, i polished some of the rougher or prominent edges that will be protruding and easily seen with shadows or contrast. i also polished off the casting marks specifically well because the entire thing had the horrible sand cast surface texture that kind of masked the castings. i intend on doing the entire block a light beige/cream color and the castings black.




so on another note, i guess i'll point out something interesting that i kind of mentioned but had no photographic proof to explain. the block on some engines are designed specifically for economy and "longer life if driven nicely". the honda civic is one of those. others are pretty much bullet-proof but a little bit less efficient. one great example of why you can boost the hell out of some 4 bangers, and others will just eat crap and explode is something called "floating cylinders". Honda is notorious for them, and some work trucks or lower-rpm vehicles use aluminum blocks with "floating cylinders" or "floating sleeves". others traditionally integrate the sleeve with the deck surface for increased rigidity and structural durability.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0539.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0540.jpg

the issue is that with floating cylinders the actual cylinder wall can flex and wobble a substantial amount at high RPM and this happens more intensely with higher compression or boosted engines. the extra space between the cylinder walls and outer block makes for GREAT coolant flow directly to the head and entire length of the sleeve. great fr economy, terrible for high stress.

the block in the lower picture is the same style as the BP mazda motor. slightly less cooling efficiency but incredibly solid and able to withstand high compression, higher heat, and higher RPM or vibration levels. its also iron instead of aluminum which means it can be re-sleeved, bored much larger, and despite the additional weight of an iron block, it leaves for more avenues of modification. great for boost, redline, beating, but heavier and more frequently abused and tend to run hotter.

kind of irrelevent for recent engine work but i was strolling through and took some photos out of boredom to hopefully educate some unknowing fellows.

and another exciting note: if anyone here is into GTP or Radical racing, mini LeMans essentially, the 9 Racing truck was loading up and a friend of mine Steve Miller will be racing at Irwindale Speedway this weekend. its relatively cheap to get in and its a hell of a race event to attend!

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0525.jpg

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:20 PM
oh believe it or not i do have some cool news to ad to the above. so i recently picked up a little bit of VROOM+ for the new motor. its a side project "work in progress" addition of its own, but my recently new employment at
http://gmauthority.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Callaway-Cars-Logo.jpg
is going to prove most valuable to this stage of the build.

i recently got my hands on a 3rd generation m45 blower. all of Callaway's supercharging products come through
http://www.byunspeed.com/images/Magnuson%20Products_320x240.jpg
and are the best opf the best crafted superchargers. they are one of the only local Eaton service centers and they're conveniently located in Ventura, CA.

where they come into play is the blower i received for the new build is burnt up a bit. the bonehead who did the last rebuild on the blower did EVERYTHING right except using a substantial amount of RTV on the gasket surface which bled into the veins during operation and well... here it is:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0457.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0459.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0456.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0460.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0461.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0464.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0463.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0462.jpg

the inlet manifold's flange to the valve was coupled with an over-tightened rubber coupler which pressed rubber so deep into the seem that it sent burnt pieces through the system. the intake foam filter was also torqued WAY too tightly, with the same effect, sending debris though and also broke the seal itself and had an unflitered gap for air to enter through. the teflon coating burnt off of the veins in several places because when foreign objects hit hot, high rpm turbine veins, they can cause SERIOUS damage. so lesson be learned, dont let idiots touch forced induction. (or car parts in general)

luckily after a few minutes on the phone with a nice guy named Joe in the service dept. at Magnuson, they told me that they may actually have the discontinued parts for an old 3rd gen unit that with labor would cost $800-900 to source and install. but working for callaway has it's perks, we'll leave it at that!

as that makes progress i'll add some of that to the thread as well. the 1.6 is coming along well, and Ethan's drift motor is at the same point as mine. enjoy! happy turkey day and tune in next week!

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:20 PM
and so the mission continues. i went into a little bit of a coma this weekend from working a lot, KINOD, finals in school, and Call of Duty MW3 binges. but now i'm finally uploading pics and getting down to it.

as i posted in my last update, the engine was waiting for the 3-axis CNC to be decked (more for aesthetics and peace of mind to me than funtionality since the deck is level right now). in the mwean time i taped the block up for paint, and managed to get it sprayed:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0582-1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0581-1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0580-1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0579-1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0585.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0586.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0587.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0584.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0583.jpg

this actually went down last thursday but i was too de-motivated to post up something as stupid as painting my block a completely rediculous color. but there it is.

and then bagged up and ready for the next step:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0589.jpg

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:21 PM
CAUTION: LOTS OF PICTURES!!!

then this past thursday, i actually got some productive stuff done all in about 30 minutes, but important work in any case. piston ring end gap measurements, and assebling the rings, and prepping the block for assembly.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0592.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0590.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0593.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0595.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0605.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0597.jpg

notice not all rings are made of the same material. they have a type of surface coating on the edges that provide different strengths and purposes. the silver looking ones are a the mahle rings that provide the best seal and strength for the compression chamber. the top ring and middle ring are referred to as compression rings. the black looking ones are hardened steel. not much of a comprimise from the mahle rings but they see about 10-20% of the abuse as the top ring therefore require much less enforcement. the 3rd ring is actually 3 rings in one, its called the oil ring. it is a ruffled ring in the middle of two very thin steel rings and its purpose is oil retention. it stops oil from entering the combustion chamber from below the piston.



to explain to the unknowing, the piston rings are fit around the piston and have a gap allowing them to be applied to their seats. the gap is then minimalized when the ring is compressed into the seat and meets the inner cylinder wall. what needs to be measured is this small gap. too much of a gap allows "blow-by" and too little of a gap, well isnt so much bad as it may not have enough room to compress entirely and fit in the cylinder. most OEM replacement rings will require a little bit of filing work to give enough gap for the ring to fit in the cylinder. very rarely will you ever run into one that has too big of a gap because you cant add material to the ring once its gone. most companies overcompensate and leave it to the technician to customize the size. fortunately for me, my extra cost TopLine pistons came through again!

dont let the discoloration fool you, my feeler gauge works just fine http://mazdaroadster.net/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0600.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0601.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0604.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0598.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0599.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0602.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0603.jpg

as you can see, the .006 fits just fine, the .013 doesnt, so therefore my rings are all within .006-.012 which is perfect by specs. TopLine win.

now to install the rings and have the pistons ready for assembly.

oil first:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0617.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0618.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0619.jpg

then 2nd ring, lower compression ring:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0623.jpg

and the 1st ring, upper compression ring:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0625.jpg

FIN!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0626.jpg

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:21 PM
what i proceeeded to do for the remainder of class was assemble the bearings and rest the crank in the block until after finals. pictures are self explanitory!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0606.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0612.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0614.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0613.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0615.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0616.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0610.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0611.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0628.jpg

and just as i got the crank in i remembered my pulley is completely screwed. so this is my glass-beading project as of now! just wait until you see what it looks like after im done with it.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0629.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0630.jpg

next week is finals, no lab time, and wont be on the block again until after the holidays. all there is left to do is plastigauge the bearings for clearances, and final assembly for the block to be complete and ready to be mated with the head!

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!! and see you all next semester with more updates. I will still be around and able to ask questions so dont hesitate to post anything up

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:22 PM
well the hype is well deserved if i may say so myself! today was a great first day. long class period, 3 hour lunch break, and everything below got done from 1pm-4pm.

so here are today's pictures and progress on the head. i wont caption "before" and "after" because its blatantly obvious...
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0686.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0687.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0689.jpg

trashing this garbage rail/injectors:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0688.jpg

in you go!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0690.jpg


for a ??? time period:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0692.jpg




we'll come back to that later...



but for now

hello engine block!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0693.jpg

although this is the second semester, we didnt all have time to do our final assembly portion of the block. on today's menu:
1)plastigauge the clearance for the main/rod bearings.
2)torque bearing caps and assembly lube all journals.
3)press fit the GTX rods in the ITM pistons for final assembly

here's the plastigauge process. basically its a thin wax stick that gets pressed between the bearing surface and journal surface of the rod or crank, and the amount it spreads outward is measured to tell how tight of a fit it is.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0694.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0697.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0698.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0699.jpg

this is what it looks like before you torque down the caps:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0700.jpg

and this is how it turns out, and how you measure clearance:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0695.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0696.jpg

you can measure the material on either the journal or the bearing, whichever has a more substantial result showing.

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:23 PM
next i will press fit the piston wrist pins through the con rods. before picture spamming, i'll educate you all on the difference between "press fit" and "free floating" con rods.

the mazda miata B/BP engines are normally fitted with free floating rods which means in the small end of the rod is a brass bushing that acts as a bearing and oil passage in one, to allow the wrist pin to "free float" in the small hole of the con rod as well as the holes in the piston. two small circlips or "c-clips" (older engines use caps that can safely touch the cylinder wall without damage) will hold the pin in place so it doesnt travel side to side and scrape the cylinder walls.

http://abbysenior.com/mechanics/images/short.31.jpg

the free floating pin is nice for a rebuilder because it slips out and back in easily with no special tools. it does however have some downfalls. it can move side to side throwing weight around and in turn moving the balance of the piston causing minimal, but over many miles a bit of uneven wear. the performance can be greatly effected at higher rpms and higher heat engines, and because the bushings include oil passages, it is one more moving part that can cause engine failure.

now press fit rods have a clearance of 0.0008"-0.0012" in the small end to literally grab the wrist pin and hold in in place. at normal room temperature it is nearly impossible without the use of a press or damaging methods to move the pin back and forth through the small end of the rod. this type of pin/rod requires special tools to fit properly, but once set the pin is perfectly centered and remains this way the duration of the engine's life. it also requires no retaining clips or caps therefore removes some weight from the equation, and allows for perfect balance. the way to fit these press fit can be one of two methods. one, made obvious by the name of the pin, is to press them into place with a hydraulic machine press. this is the traditional and more widely used method, however, it is possible to damage any of the components in this method by pressing a hole into the piston, bending/warping a rod, or completely scoring and marking a pin that will eat away the piston at engine RPM. the method as you will see in my pictures below is the "hot rod" method (no pun intended). this method is to heat the small end of the rod to an incredibly high temperature while keeping the pin and piston at slightly cooler than room temperature, and in a swift motion slipping the pin through the rod into the piston achieving a more than snug fit without scratching the pin or putting more than your forearm's pressure on the components.

*caution*
you can, and probably will find out that it is very easy to screw up, get stuck, and get a pin about half way through before it comes to the same degree as the rod and gets u jammed. dont fret, you can always press the pin out once it is snug into the con rod end. it is only dangerous to initiate the alignment of the pin with a press because of the absolute accuracy required! pressing the pin out of the rod is safe and easy because it is already sliding along the straight edge of the rod.



http://abbysenior.com/mechanics/images/short.30.jpg

now onto my pictures:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0708.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0709.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0707.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0706.jpg

oops... yes this was my first try. the professor did the first one of mine to demonstrate.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0710.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0711.jpg

all better:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0712.jpg





so finally the cylinder head!


about 3 hours went by, the "60 minute" timer finaly dinged on me, and i pulled out the ratty, disgusting, filthy, wait.... what?
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0701.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0704.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0703.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0702.jpg

yes. this is the same head! it isnt even close to being clean as i want it to be. and it will bear brand new valves and components before final assembly of the long block! so stay tuned frequently! I am officialy enrolled early into the 204B blueprinting cylinder heads course since i'm hauling so much ass in 104A/B so this may get more exciting than the first semester!

and here's my new dog i found on my way home from the junk yard in long beach the week before christmas:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0652.jpg

and here's a chicken:
http://29.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_li9v04kC8a1qhk4ito1_400.jpg

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:23 PM
Quote:


Originally Posted by zenit http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/styles/redcarbon/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?p=1119351#post1119351)
How are those pressed pins going to lubed against the pistons while it's all spinning?


Also, great stuff here!

I'll be getting my short block back from the machine shop tomorrow, ready for paint and assembly over the weekend. http://mazdaroadster.net/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif Hooray for engine building!





great question! like this:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/oilpassages.jpg

and yes i drew this by hand lol. as you can see from the pistons i chose in this picture:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0706.jpg

the holes you see in the piston on the pin guide are drilled right through to a hollow area between the pin and the head of the piston to allow oil to pass up and over the entire assembly and down through the wrist pin as it moves.

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 09:25 PM
everything prior to this post is material i copied from my old posts as "Laguna96" on ClubRoadster.net

the new owners of the forum have removed some features that i liked, enough to make me migrate this entire build here, so i hope people appreciate it as much here as they have in the past! i will still post updates to both, but this one will receive my full attention from now on.

zenit
01-12-2012, 10:02 PM
Glad to see you over here!

diabeetus
01-12-2012, 10:28 PM
jesus i love this

MiataLife
01-12-2012, 10:50 PM
OMG, how did I not know you had this project going on?

I take it this is at the same place that i met up with you and Matthew the other night?

Keep up the good work!

EUNOS 96
01-12-2012, 10:51 PM
actually that was just a transmissions class at mission high school. this takes place at saddleback college near the "SOCM underground" spot we discovered that one night near the kaleidescope mall

blenderblast
01-13-2012, 12:52 AM
This is epic. Keep up the good work!!

Schain
01-13-2012, 12:57 AM
Great work. So much of this went over my head. Who knew that Saddleback had such nice equipment lol.

Caoboy
01-13-2012, 01:23 AM
I love reading this. Its like I'm learning and not in school

KAL
01-13-2012, 01:49 AM
Great thread! Sub'd.

iamdallas
01-13-2012, 02:35 AM
Just read this whole thing. Awesome write up.

I would really love doing this. What kind of school do you go to?

EUNOS 96
01-14-2012, 02:49 AM
Great work. So much of this went over my head. Who knew that Saddleback had such nice equipment lol.


Just read this whole thing. Awesome write up.

I would really love doing this. What kind of school do you go to?

its interesting because it does take place at Saddleback Community College in mission viejo california, however, the technical certificate program is not at all "community college" level. it is in fact one of the only 2 or 3 schools in california that educates all students on CNC equipment at an automotive level, and allows each student to work simultaneously on their own engines. its actually a really awesome program! the "AutoTech" program at saddleback is essentially its own entity, it just happens to take place on the community college's campus and is available as some electives at the lower levels

iamdallas
01-14-2012, 03:13 AM
I ask because I'm very unsatisfied with my college education right now.... I'm learning nothing for a degree I can't use. I've been looking around at some tech schools and I can't find a school that goes into this much detail the nuances of building an engine. I would love to attend this school.

EUNOS 96
01-14-2012, 02:45 PM
the best advice i could give is to go around to different campuses that offer similar classes and just kind of peek in during a class or ask the teachers and let them know what you're looking to jump into. i actually stumbled across this accidently and it made me change majors immediately.

sss1987
01-14-2012, 03:46 PM
This is actually a brilliant thread!

Andy
01-14-2012, 04:00 PM
fantastic thread

The Platypus
01-15-2012, 03:24 AM
Brilliantly fantastic thread

EUNOS 96
01-16-2012, 02:48 AM
Thready brilliant fantasy

friday
01-16-2012, 01:02 PM
Will it be finished by the end of this semester?

EUNOS 96
01-17-2012, 02:51 PM
it should be. i plan on getting it in my car and wheel dyno by early summer

Titus
01-17-2012, 04:52 PM
This is awesome. Subscribed.

Doward
01-17-2012, 08:08 PM
When you're all done, a mod should clean all our replies out and sticky it in our DIY or FAQ section.

This is amazing! Keep it up!

EUNOS 96
01-18-2012, 10:05 AM
alright so yesterday wasn't as smooth as last week,
but here's some pics and progress.

i began with the intentions of
completing the lower end assembly, which means having literally everything
completely bolted and torqued together on the block minus the cylinder head. the
pistons were to go in, rings and all, the oil squirters, the oil pan, crank
pulley, oil pump and water pump

so pistons first.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0720.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0719.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0715.jpg

3
made it in, one of them... not so much
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0718.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0716.jpg

unfortunately
the piston ring compressors we have are heavily used and dont seat perfectly
with the block deck, so one of the flimsy littly oil retainer rings slipped out
mid-swing on the mallet and snapped in half. $75.00 mistake due to the
oversized "custom" piston size. so for the time being i have a 3 cylinder miata
block, until EPWI can get a new set of rings... because of course you cant just
buy one ring, and of course they wouldnt be in stock anywhere in california. so
i at least slipped in the oil squirters before leaving the block for the
day.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0721.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0722.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0723.jpg

i
felt like this is one of the most important things to show miata drivers. most
engines don't have this feature, and it is born from boost. the original design
of the BP engine was to have a turbo model, the 323 GTX/GTR. these oil squirters
were necessary to provide oil for press fit rods and cooling the pistons for a
higher reving engine. very cool for mazda to keep the nostalgia alive into our
motors or all you boosted miatas would melt some pistons much quicker than you
already do!

the block will have to sit for now until next week, but now
onto the head.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0724.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0725.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0726.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0727.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0728.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0729.jpg

very
rusty, and still a little dirty. but what can i say, miracles wont happen
overnight on this engine. this is about as far as i got before getting really
distracted with the glass beader machine... do you all remember what my crank
pulley looked like? let me re-post a picture!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0630.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0629.jpg

well...
now it looks like this:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0717.jpg

tune
in tomorrow for some updates on the head!

Agent☣Orange
01-18-2012, 11:51 AM
Giving positive rep for this. Excellent stuff. Wish I could go back to school and do this.

kung fu jesus
01-18-2012, 12:05 PM
Nice progress, Tom!

That sucks about the piston tool. I've had that happen before. I have an unused one I picked up from HF you are welcome to use!

Just wondering about something...when you blasted the pulley, did you check the rubber for cracks/hardening? I know it's tough to see, but maybe a new one might be worth the squeeze? Maybe check the balance of the refurbed one?

iamdallas
01-18-2012, 01:00 PM
Ouch. Sorry to hear about the rings.... but at least you build went smoothly until then.

WASABI
01-18-2012, 02:23 PM
How cool to "work" at something you love. Beautiful engine build, and wonderfully documented. I will be back for updates. Thanks for your time in posting all of this for us.

-Jim

EUNOS 96
01-18-2012, 08:33 PM
Nice progress, Tom!

That sucks about the piston tool. I've had that happen before. I have an unused one I picked up from HF you are welcome to use!

Just wondering about something...when you blasted the pulley, did you check the rubber for cracks/hardening? I know it's tough to see, but maybe a new one might be worth the squeeze? Maybe check the balance of the refurbed one?

the grooves are fine, timing marks are still in perfect condition, and i didn't have the belt with the engine when 2nd chance roadster gave it to me. the pulley will be balanced but being that its such a small engine and the level of balancing involved in everything else, it could be extremely off and still not do much to the integrity of the motor. if it were a bigger vibration damper like on monster V8's i would be a bit more concerned! i plan to balance it with the flywheel that gets mounted in the end.

czubaka
01-19-2012, 11:21 PM
Awesome build! I now feel qualified to build my own engine...NOT!

Question on the main bearings. What do you do with the plasti-gauge measurement results? Is that only to determine if you have the right thickness bearings in there?

Keep up the awesome work!

EUNOS 96
01-22-2012, 04:47 PM
the plastigauge results just indicate what kind of clearance there is between the bearing and the frictional surface of the rod or main journal. if the clearance it too little or too great you either need crank work, rod work, or new bearings. a lot of mom&pop shops use this method when "rebuilding" because it gives them an opportunity to *gasp* re-use old bearings... which is rediculous, but some "newly rebuilt" stuff can be that way based on clearances within tolerances.

EUNOS 96
01-26-2012, 04:17 PM
here are the most recent pics and updates from tuesday and today:

got some replacement dowel pins and guides for the deck and front/rear face of the block. cheap mazda dealer parts no big deal:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0733.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0734.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0736.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0737.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0738.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0739.jpg

then pulled out some items to be cleaned and prepared for re-assembly:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0740.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0741.jpg

after shot:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0742.jpg

new oil pump and seals:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0743.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0744.jpg

old rear main seal:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0745.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0746.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0747.jpg

new rear main seal isnt going in just yet. i need to clean the hell out of the carrier, or get a new one. the kit from EPWI conveniently forgot to include the oil pan gasket and some other things like a thermostat etc... so i will have to wait on more progress for the moment.

but here is the right way to tear apart your miata valve cover for cleaning, paint or polish:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0749.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0750.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0751.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0752.jpg

rumors are that if you fill in the baffled areas with brass wool to further baffle the vacuum areas it is even more beneficial for oil retention and vacuum lines. i'll post details if and when i find anything else on this!

EUNOS 96
02-02-2012, 08:11 PM
alright so i suppose im a little overdue for an update, so here it goes. not a whole lot of stuff done, but progress in this case is in the eyes of the beholder! I've been busy running around trying to find a solution to my head/cam dilema which basically put this whole project on pause for a week or two.

what happened was everything was looking terrific until i pulled the cams out and realized the caps and the journals were scored and burned beyond repair. so i decided almost instantaneously it was destiny to fit this with a NB head, solid lifters, and start with the best possible head for the block and build THAT head like a monster. so here's what i got:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0758.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0756.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0755.jpg

as close to perfect as you can get without buying straight from the dealership. but wait, there's more!

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0753.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0754.jpg

found this beauty in the junk yard, got it for nickels and dimes, and sanded/polished the KIA and DOCH 16V lettering off, soon to be painted and looking badass. here's some comparisons to the OEM valve cover:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0759.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0760.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0761.jpg

the first thing EVERYONE must know who plans to buy one of these kia covers and use it on their head is that it will NOT fit without modification. i will point out that the vacuum line in the rear pops out exactly where the ignition coil is, the front cam cover doesn't match up perfectly with the head's cam cover shrouding (the black plastic) so you will need to first re-locate the vacuum line in the same end of the baffling but aim it out the side instead of straight into the coil pack, as well as either trim the head's timing cover to match OR get the shrouding from a kia sephia and see if it fits. the other obvious bits are it has the PCV slightly out of place but only requiring a different legth of hose, and it is way damn sexier when it doesnt say KIA on it.

with all that said, i guess i will point out some obvious differences between the NA8C head, otherwise known as the BP05 head, and the 99-00 NB head better known as the BP4W head.

for all of you that don't know, like i hadn't until i bought it, where the casting marks are, and be sure you aren't just buying som expensive placebo from an ebay seller:

BP05
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0766.jpg

BP4W
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0767.jpg

how to identify solid lifters from hydraulic:

HYDRAULIC BP05
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0764.jpg

SOLID BP4W
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0765.jpg

beefier cam gears on the BP4W:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0768.jpg

cam castings:

BP05
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0769.jpg

BP4W
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0770.jpg

much different cam journal caps:

BP05
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0762.jpg

BP4W
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0763.jpg

EUNOS 96
02-02-2012, 08:11 PM
and from there, i began to take it apart. there wasn't much time today so here's how far i got, being sure to keep all solid lifters organized:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0772.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0773.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0771.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0774.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0775.jpg

hydraulic lifters can be thrown back in any order you want, but the solid lifters, being that they are solid and not self adjusting, will have the slightest bit of variance between valves due to cam lobe wear. even as beautiful and new as mine seem, you never know! better safe than slow (or broken down).

kung fu jesus
02-02-2012, 08:49 PM
nice.

did you measure the lifters for clearance before disassembly or are you going to do that later?

that head and cams look really good. nice find!

EUNOS 96
02-02-2012, 10:52 PM
doing that later, im treating it like its a bad head that needs a complete rebuild, but i'll be using the parts that came with it aside from some new valve seals for the hell of it and anything else that seems stupid not to do while its here.

kung fu jesus
02-02-2012, 11:25 PM
valve guides.

EUNOS 96
02-03-2012, 03:11 AM
im considering it, but the motor supposedly had 106k on it... but matt got one from the same seller with "86k" on it that looked like it had 86k on it lol. so im thinking this was new/rebuilt very recently and might not need replacement parts as much

friday
02-03-2012, 05:27 PM
Well now that you are going to run a 99 head I think you should grab a square top intake manifold. Unless you had plans for something a bit wilder .

EUNOS 96
02-04-2012, 02:27 PM
the intake will be seeing some "modifications" lol but great idea. too bad the square top is like $500 after tax/shipping/ass-pain

friday
02-04-2012, 09:33 PM
But it has some real gains for a simple bolt on part. Even more for a motor like this.

EUNOS 96
02-09-2012, 08:59 PM
so this week was a bit more of tearing down the head, learning about valve guides and valve seats.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0796.jpg

as i continued to break down the head i found that i had gotten some nearly new NGK spark plugs free of charge! lol
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0809.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0810.jpg

parts off to be cleaned and new-ified:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0797.jpg

and after:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0798.jpg

back to the head to pull the valves:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0799.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0800.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0801.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0803.jpg

popping the valves out:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0804.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0805.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0806.jpg

measuring the height of the valve:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0813-1.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0820.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0821.jpg

measurements arre in inches. very consistent, not going to need much work! the tool is pretty neat, very accurate. you leave the spring shims in the head to measure the active face of the head to the top of the valve stem tip. this insures that the valves stay the same length as "adjusted" by wear from the lifters, because each lifter has its own shim surface that will also have corresponding wear.

so i ordered a new water pump, and a new oil pan gasket. neither showed up before today so i thought i would clean up some bracket pieces to the water pump assembly for easy installation and discovered this:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0822.jpg

this is how bad the world ends when a glass bead machine goes down... apparently this was the day everyone wanted to use it and some dumbass probably put an oily/greasy part through and clogged the glass beads. so with nothing more to do i went back to the block to do some finishing touch work, which meant putting in the last oil plug, and all the freeze plugs that i completely neglected:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0815.jpg

little bit of RTV:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0816.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0817.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0819.jpg

and thats about it for progress this week. there really isnt a whole lot to show you guys until i jump on a machine to re-cut the seats and polish the faces.

EUNOS 96
02-11-2012, 04:54 PM
teasers:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0824.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0825.jpg

EUNOS 96
02-16-2012, 09:49 PM
progress is occuring, no worthy pictures to upload this week. had a huge fuck up with 2 broken bolts (one was hydro-locked in a hole with too much RTV), a messy oil pump seal, and a lot of back tracking to fix certain issues. the head is completely broken down as of today and being cleaned. the valve stems might actually stay in, everything seems like it has incredibly little wear and may be worth keeping! expect lots and lots of pictures next week.

main focus of this week has been organizing final assembly parts and building the megasquirt.

EUNOS 96
02-23-2012, 02:59 AM
i feel like this is pertinent information to the build so even though its a reply to a CR.net member, i'll share it here as well!



Quote:



Originally Posted by RedemPhex http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/styles/redcarbon/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread.php?p=1151886#post1151886)


haha, yea if you get a lot of oil puking like that, its likely from leaking rings. too much blow by = pressurize crankcase = oil puke. You may even shoot the dipstick out or one of the seals, but you should probably have rebuilt it lonnnnngg before seals pop.

PS, anyway you can update us with a current list of the parts you have put in the block and plan to put in the head? I know you covered this before, but Its quite difficult to skim your 300 photos looking for parts :/ (make life easier for me please :D)





hmm ok this is just off the top of my head but... :

-long block from 2nd chance roadster as a base
-TopLine BP DOHC 1839cc master rebuild kit (0.040" oversized), the bulk of the parts...(www.epwi.net (http://www.epwi.net/))
-GTX rods outsourced through EPWI
-re-blueprinted crankshaft
-2000 BP4W head from project-G (head w/ longblock was fubar)
-spare intake manifold off a 2000 up at ontario pick-a-part junkyard (pics coming soon of modifications for s/c kit)
-JRSC M45 w/ NB inlet manifold, shitty audi intercooler, modified higher RPM pulley

-DIY MS2 kit w/ boomslang harness for parallel
-second set of piston
rings due to a little oops
-innovate wideband kit

thats about all i can recall shooting money at... but there will be more to come such as:

-flywheel of sorts...
-motormounts of sorts...
-JSRC or comparable header that will work with a SC kit

and whatever else comes naturally with an engine swap. in this case its very simple because its a BP for a BP but when you have the whole thing out its nice to freshen up wiring and accessories. i'm considering a rather in depth wire tuck and cleaning up some useless clutter. i recently swapped in a manual rack and the AC is just sitting there because i never purchased a shorter belt for my tensioner pulley that i so adamantly purchased for the swap haha. upon swapping motors the car will go from comfortable daily driver to pretty extreme purpose built yet street legal (kind of...) car. i actually have a spare hood for modification on the side which i plan to make fit around the NB inlet manifold for the M45 as well as fit it with acceptable ventilation for the intercooler and radiator and a trunk for some rediculously BECAUSE RACECAR wing to swap on and off for track days. APR seems 2legit2quit but its also expensive as hell so any advice in the auto-x department for great DIY downforce thats proven would be awesome!

for everyone else be sure to check in tomorrow for some picture whoring and updates on progress. there should be a lot between last week and this week so i hope not to dissapoint

EUNOS 96
02-23-2012, 04:23 PM
ok so heres the latest and greatest! large post
here lots of photos and some side projects.

lets begin with last week...
this got finished:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0842.jpg

and
some boomslangin'
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0844.jpg

all with help from chris safranski in his mad scientist laboratory at cal state long beach!

but back to engines. finished tearing the head down to nothing but
the head itself and the valve guides.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0837.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0838.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0839.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0840.jpg

threw
it in the hot solvent steamer and went to finishing the short block assembly
(finally!!!) sort of... last week was a rough week because as i went to take
some photos i discovered this:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0832.jpg

in
the photo, the lower part of the oil pump seal is bulging out due to bad
installation on the crankshaft. this is a very tricky part to not screw up so i
dont feel too bad having overlooked it. luckily i'm a camera crazy bitch and i
caught it before final assembly. but the pain in the ass didn't just vanish, it
grew exponentially! what i didn't photograph, due to anger and fiery rage, was
that i forgot the oil pickup was bolted to the oil pump which is beneath the oil
pan. so several minutes into a pry bar and some hammers trying to get the oil
pump off, which i assumed was just stuck on from some well cured RTV, i realized
i had no choice but to take off the oil pan and see what i was doing
wrong!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0835.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0833.jpg

1
gasket down...
oil pan removal #1...

so i find the 2 low torque 10mm
bolts holding in my oil pump and i pull it off. new gasket, new o-ring, more
RTV, proper installation, back goes on the oil pan. then i hydro-locked a bolt
into the ONE AND ONLY bolt hole on the pan that isn't drilled all the way
through... FML
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0831.jpg

first
broken 10mm bolt...
second time removing oil pan.

so i'm torquing down
the oil pan for the 3rd time now, and i literally face palmed when i saw the
rear main seal about to shoot off the flywheel end of the crank because i forgot
to bolt it down before the pan. this was me being an idiot again. it was a long
day... so i figured okay what the hell, i just loosened the pan and started
bolting the seal on. little did i know i mis-labeled the rear main bolts and put
one in that wa, i kid you not, 1/8th of an inch too long, and proceeded to break
off the head as i tightened it in.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0834.jpg

second
bolt broken...
third time removing oil pan.

so last tuesday was a few
hours of fixing, breaking, fixing, breaking, fixing, and breaking. it was
demotivating and i got very little done on thursday besides actually learning
things in class before lab.

so this week on tuesday i managed to get the
entire short block 100% finished and ready for the head and timing. here's the
shots:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0853.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0854.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0855.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0857.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0859.jpg

and
here's something interesting. check out the comparison of the OEM mazda versus
aftermarket tensioner pulley. the slot where the pully is made to slide back and
forth is nicely rounded to the radius of the swing arm whereas the OEM mazda one
is not. i think its kind of lame that mazda didnt do this in the first
place:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0856.jpg

EUNOS 96
02-23-2012, 04:25 PM
and now onto primarily head work. aluminum is much
more fun to work with!

so in my own time i came up with some theories
(based on learnings at school) on how to make a decent intake manifold for a
supercharged miata out of OE products. most people lead me the way of the
b16/b18 welded to a miata flange, but my idea was to make the NB IM simpler,
bigger, and much more "OEM" looking. basically i hollowed out the top portion
and lightly ported the runners. ***keep in mind before face palming or flaming
this modification, it is all being tested and there is a second spare untouched
VICS NB IM waiting to be compared with boost and dyno'd!***
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0867.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0849.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0866.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0864.jpg

now
let me show you why this comes as such an advantage versus mazda's design
originally intended... see with VICS actuated, 4 butterfly valves swing open
much like IRTBs and allow more air flow at certain throttle position. its a
vacuum actuated, but electronically controlled setup that is either open
entirely or closed entirely.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0850.jpg

many
people will throw it on a switch when swapping into an na car to controll it
whereas others just leave it disconnected. it is a small part of the horsepower
and flo gain from an NB vs. NA head, but check out how absolutely minimal the
airflow achieved is:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0852.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0851.jpg

it
allows access to a whopping 1/2 square inch of air ducting that passes through
270 degress of bends from the bottom of the IM. its almost worthless! and yet
there is almost 50% of the IM internals that are completely closed off for this
system to house valves for this all to work. now mind you that what i have done
may hurt a natural aspirated vehicle performance, i'm aiming for a bigger
chamber for more boost at higher throttle, not low end double digit horsepower.
the manifold is not done entirely yet, it will still be de-burred and cleaned up
a lot with all sharp edges rounded and modified according to the airflow bench,
but this is the general idea behind it.

now to class related headwork.
with all the valves pulled, i had glass blasted them and inspected for wear.
they are almost brand new in condition and i was sure the measurements would
dictate the same:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0829.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0828.jpg

so
onto the measuring. you use a micrometer to measue the top and bottom of the
travel area on the valve stem, and a very small dial bore indicator or
ball/sleeve tool to indicate the wear in the guides:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0870.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0869.jpg

we're
looking for what kind of clearance there is between the guide and the stem and
whether it is within spec according to PROSIS database:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0878.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0871.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0872.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0873.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0874.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0875.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0876.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0877.jpg

so
as you can see everything is well within spec, in fact, its on the lower end of
the clearance which is beautiful! the clearance from prosis states 0.025-0.060mm
and my lowest was 0.0254 and largest was only 0.0381. so it looks like the
valves and guides are staying put! so the head went in for one last cleaning and
now waiting until next week to touch up the valves with a light grind for a new
finish and the seats as well. definitely hitting it with a full 3 angle but
aiming for a chance to use the 5 angle cutter (15 30 45 60 75 degree)

kung fu jesus
02-23-2012, 04:37 PM
Nice work, Tom. I would have been punching babies.

EUNOS 96
02-23-2012, 05:11 PM
i was close to that point believe me lol the victories far outweigh the losses so far in this build

The Platypus
02-23-2012, 10:00 PM
How is this tool used? How do you measure the clearances between the guide and stem?


http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0874.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0875.jpg

EUNOS 96
02-23-2012, 10:29 PM
sorry i should have been slightly more descriptive with that tool. basically what it does is it is a split metal sleeve made of spring steel that has a little ball on a threaded dowel down the center. you slip the end into the hole to be measure and twist the handle until it just barely fits in the hole. by twisting th handle it pulls the ball into the handle spreading the steel tip to the size of the hole. once it is a secure fit you carefully back the tip out of the hole and measure the tip with a micrometer. it is essentially a way around using a dial bore indicator on a hole that is just too small for most dial bore indicators to get into.

in lamence terms, this tool expands to the size of the hole so you can measure the diameter in comparison to the valve stem associated to that hole

The Platypus
02-23-2012, 10:36 PM
Ah, that makes sense.
Thanks for explaining.

EUNOS 96
03-21-2012, 11:13 AM
back to class yesterday. spent the entire day setting up the rottler CNC for shaving heads, and went to put on jason's 5 valve VW head first. takes about an hour to dial in and get everything just right, long story short, mine went on and here's the pornography:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0959.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0960.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0961.jpg

video:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/th_VIDEO0029.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/?action=view&current=VIDEO0029.mp4)

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0963.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0964.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0965.jpg

in increments of 0.0020" we shaved off exactly 0.0130". roughly about 0.25:1 more compression from this. fun, not too aggressive, and look at how sexy it looks! perfect surface.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0966.jpg

shooting for valve grind and seat cut on thursday, stay tuned!

kung fu jesus
03-21-2012, 11:30 AM
THAT is a beautiful cut my friend. Holy CRAP!

The Platypus
03-21-2012, 05:19 PM
That is actually sex.

EUNOS 96
03-29-2012, 09:56 PM
haven't forgotten about the thread, don't worry guys! I will go on to say that the valves i intended to re-use, as decent as they seemed, had no room for grinding as far as improving the surface and I've decided to go down a better route...
http://www.portflow.com/images/sup_logo.jpg

so expect some fancy boxes, some 3 angle/2 radius (radius, 60*, 45*, 30*, and another radius) cut seats, and a lot of assembly happening next week!

on another good note, i recently got on the crew with the guys down at 949 RACING and sonny won the E3 class enduro at Infineon Raceway, Sonoma! awesome shop, really cool guys, and really looking foward to spending a lot more time down there.


http://i56.tinypic.com/331omdy.jpg

EUNOS 96
04-09-2012, 01:17 AM
seat cutter being a complete douche bag and not cuttin properly. look for updates by thursday evening once i get things worked out. so far the supertech oversized valves are in han, seats are half cut (exhaust side) an not holding as much vacuum as i want... might be a problem with endplay in the cutter. whatever the issue, the only thing between me and a complete motor is installing the valves an putting everything together. hurry up and wait, story of my life!


stay tuned

EUNOS 96
04-11-2012, 02:17 AM
holy shit balls. finished machining the head. 10 years later the seats are
cut and holding good vacuum, time for some campfire stories and pics to go along
with them.



so what i'm trying to achieve here is take a valve seat that is factory cut
at a simple 45 degree to meet a simple 45 degree faced valve, and then cut it to
a 5 angle equivalent seat to match up to a 1mm oversized front and back cut 3
angle high performance valve.



http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0989.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0990.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0991.jpg





here's the attempt:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1015.jpg



simple enough, get a carbide cutter for lots of dollars, slap it on, cut it,
call it a day! fuck no.



so what this here is doing is taking the valve to be used, measuring with a
scribe to the point of desired face contact on the valve so i have a referrence
to measure the cutter for the mill to. this ensures that i have the ideal
diameter cut for the valve to seal properly which is crucial especially when
installing oversized valves:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0993.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0992.jpg



and here is the cutter measured to the same location. obviously intake and
exhaust will be totally different:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0994.jpg



a small pilot (like 0.599 or a 2.395 something i used) for the mill installed
into the valve guide ensures the mill aligns properly to the centerpoint of the
valve and is supposed to hold it center to force the cut to be nice and
concentric and even:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0995.jpg



and down i go with my attempts to cut some pretty seats:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0996.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0997.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG0998.jpg



prior to measurements everything seemed to be going well. it took me a while
to get to the point of even cutting because my old valves turned out to be kind
of shit, and my new ones were an unexpected ~$300 expense and required new
measurements. i ended up having to cut the intakes like 3 different times and
the 3rd time was because the machine is quite a bitch. let me tell you about
endplay, and this thing called shrouding.



we all know what end play is, at least i hope you do if you're intending to
follow this sort of thing. the mill has a maximum end play of about 0.8mm when
fully pressed to one side at the furthest most tip of the cutting tool without a
pilot guide. and this is where shrouding almost "drove me to drugs" as my
professor would say. in small aluminum head 4-5 valve import motors, there is a
notorous amount of what is called valve shrouding. it is essentially the area
around the edges of the combustion chamber that were too shallow to mount valve
seats so it was slightly machined like a bore down to the seat by the original
manufacturer seat installation. let me show you a picture of what i mean:

http://www.xtremethings.com/Images/Mods/ValveDeShrouding.jpg

a keen eye will point out this isn't a miata head pictured, because it's just
a google image that very clearly shows what i mean. the miata head is even
tighter and more restrictive where the shrouding limits how far out a pre-set
multi angle cutter can cut, and restricts airflow in the head from incoming air
and outgoing exhaust be blocking off the outer edges of the valves from air
flow. well in this particular case, i was goign so far oversized, and such an
extreme multi-angle performance cut that the shrouding provided enough force
against the flat edge of the cutter to push it about 1/5 of the rotation in away
from the seat edge itself and throw the cut off center:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1016.jpg



so what i needed to do was with a completely separate cutting tip i had to
mill out and deshroud the area which benefits airflow as well as allowing the
cut to work right:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1007.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1008.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1009.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1010.jpg

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1011.jpg



and here is a good side by side of a shrouded versus a deshrouded on the
exhaust side:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1013.jpg



so as the head sits now:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1014.jpg



the only bit of work left to machine in the entire engine build as of now is
grinding the valve stem tips to the desired installed height and put it all back
together! engine finished assembly is in the near future so stay tuned.

iamdallas
04-11-2012, 03:22 AM
So beautiful

Jace
04-11-2012, 05:35 AM
good class. 10/10.

would attend.

EUNOS 96
04-26-2012, 07:36 PM
at the mercy of the shipping and handling gods... ordered some super thin lifter bucket shims and some spring seat shims, once they're here time to put it all together. taking much longer than i anticipated but now i know what to have ordered and ready sooner than later the next time!

moerdogg
04-26-2012, 07:46 PM
So much good stuff in this thread! Thanks for sharing all that you've learned.

kung fu jesus
04-27-2012, 12:23 AM
The deshrouding info jogged my memory. I remember this from way back on m.n when FM started offering engine work. There was a lot of back and forth between the guys at FM and some D prep guys, IIRC. Maybe this was on the old Power Forum mailing list, I dunno anymore.

Glad you got it figured out. How many babies were punched in the process?

Keep
04-27-2012, 09:48 AM
most miata related worthwhile thread of the decade.

Thank God for a non hellaflush, slammed, or will a 13b fit in my car thead bullshit!

Thanks!!!

EUNOS 96
05-10-2012, 08:36 PM
finally got all the parts for the shims together and finished the machine work on the valve stem tips
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1032.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1033.jpg

bevelled the edges to avoid damage to the rubber seals:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1034.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1035.jpg

off with the old lifter shims
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1037.jpg
on with the new... much smaller and flush with the buckets
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1036.jpg
well i appologize for not updating sooner and being short on pics but the past few weeks have been hell. the rest of the motor went together pretty smoothly
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1040.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1039.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1038.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1046.jpg

and now its done! out with the old and in with the new
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1044.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/IMAG1043.jpg

pictures and videos coming soon once the tune is right and its all buttoned up.

EUNOS 96
05-10-2012, 08:39 PM
The deshrouding info jogged my memory. I remember this from way back on m.n when FM started offering engine work. There was a lot of back and forth between the guys at FM and some D prep guys, IIRC. Maybe this was on the old Power Forum mailing list, I dunno anymore.

Glad you got it figured out. How many babies were punched in the process?

haha yea well after cutting 16 valves with minimal vacuum holding i was ready to force the BP4W down a newborn's throat and beat it out of him with the block... but once i figured it out i found myself giving a lesson to the students of the class on innovative improvising

EUNOS 96
05-10-2012, 08:39 PM
most miata related worthwhile thread of the decade.

Thank God for a non hellaflush, slammed, or will a 13b fit in my car thead bullshit!

Thanks!!!

im proud of all that you've said right here haha

EUNOS 96
05-12-2012, 10:33 PM
i'll just leave this here..... :slayer:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g159/linkinpunk629/injin.jpg

iamdallas
05-13-2012, 02:18 AM
Sweet. So, are you going to dyno-tune this thing when you're done? I want to see how much power it puts down NA, before you boost it.

EUNOS 96
05-13-2012, 02:39 AM
i'd like to after the break-in. i'll post sheets if i do

iamdallas
06-01-2012, 12:26 AM
Any updates?!

kung fu jesus
06-01-2012, 05:53 AM
Tom, you're a beast!

Post vids or this didn't happen.

Stealth97
06-02-2012, 09:18 AM
I love me some NA power. Keeps it up.

iKhanh
09-17-2012, 02:25 AM
what's going on?! you're leaving us readers in the dark!

iamdallas
03-03-2013, 01:35 PM
I'd like an update!