Return of the EUNOS MANTICORE – featuring an Ecotec 2.4 engine swap

This will be the continuation of the previous Eunos Motors fantasy build of the Manticore Special Edition without all the craziness, well maybe just a little.
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Right now, I am of the greying age where I want to revive some fond automotive memories of my youth.
One of those memories was owning this car at the invincible age of 19 years old.

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Yes, it’s a 1962 Mercedes 190SL. (Excuse the digital picture of a blurry Polaroid picture)
Even better, it had a 1964 Corvette 375hp 327 V8, 4 speed, 12 bolt rear end, along with a Corvette big block hood grafted in! Can you believe it, I removed the large distinctive Mercedes 3-point emblem from the grill. I did that so it would look more like a Cobra. It even had the single Cobra style roll-bar behind the driver. It looked great with the hardtop off and was a blast to drive with the exhaust echoing out both sides via the Thrush side pipes. The 1200 rpm idle with the Isky cam was menacing at each stoplight. Unfortunately, I had to sell it a few years later to pay some medical bills.

I wanted to re-create my modified Mercedes 190SL but this time with a GM LSx engine while making improvements in the handling and braking department.
Hmmmm, searches Craigslist, Hemmings, Ebay… Dohh, look at those prices! Interesting that all the good ones have the same price; “INQUIRE”.
The dream of a 190SL restomod is so notgonnahappen.com

A very wise person once wrote “No Roadster, No Life”.
I need a roadster replacement for that 190SL so I can have an automotive life again.
What 2 seater convertible can I buy that has good parts availability, good aftermarket support, has rear wheel drive, a chassis known for handling, and can be had at a reasonable cost?
Of course, The answer is always Miata! (You knew that was coming)

The MiataQuest began to find a rust-free NA with a good body and interior.
I decided on a 1992 white LS out of Texas. It had a BEGI turbo, nice leather interior, and air conditioning. The air conditioning was a big plus to make the wife happy. At 117,000 miles it was priced a little higher than I wanted to pay. However with a rust free car as a base, everything can be rebuilt and modified over time.

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I wanted to create my own version of a special edition model that could be passed off as a factory offering. At the same time attempting to improve the car in as many performance categories as possible.

With that in mind, my special edition needed a name for brand recognition and to add some styling cues.
Back when I was driving the Mercedes 190SL I would have been a huge Emerson, Lake, and Palmer fan. Recently Keith Emerson and Greg Lake had left this earth for concerts afar. I thought the car could be a tribute to them by using their own “Manticore” recording label. I think the Manticore logo is fitting for a performance roadster.

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I will definitely be talking with Revlimiter and Spinnywhoosh in the future.

I had done some simple modifications like tow hooks and “clearsies”!
Next I performed some simple maintenance so I could drive the car locally and decide what I should fix and modify. More on the driving impressions later.
A project plan was being formulated…

I figured I should detail the exterior finish of the car to see how well the paint shows while preventing greasy finger marks.
I broke out the Meguiars Ultimate Compound with their DA applicator and got to work.

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Working up close around the car I could see all kinds of defects in the paint and the body.
Oh well, being a “10 footer” will allow me to enjoy the car more while empowering me to try some body modifications myself. Additional rock chips will build character.
Even with the defects, I was happy how much the car’s visual appearance improved with the compounding, polishing, and wax. It went from chalky white to bright glossy white.

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I sure hate that “Miata” cursive sticker! That will need to go. Actually I plan to lose everything Miata related and replace with Eunos.
I also think I need to lose the mud flaps, rock chips be damned

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Dooh.. Look at the paint around the fuel filler.
I hope that was caused by a careless previous owner and not the dreaded “Crystal White” curse.
What to do? Got it!

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Zoom Baby Zoom. Was that a lucky cheat fix or what?

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10 feet and looking good. :D

Glad to see you started a new build thread, Rene! :drinkto: I think my original post from your previous build thread still applies.

"Given your "rich automotive history" and that you're clearly a character, I'm confident this is going to be a fantastic build thread!:bow: Can't wait to see more and remember Adam aka Revlimiter is the go to guy for all those custom touches, which I have no doubt you will address along the way.":winky:

what happened to the other build thread? Am i missing something?

Fotopuckit killed it!!!:shocked::fp::angry:

I will keep working on this build thread to get it up-to-date while using this different build format.
Later I will ask MiataRoadster for edit permission to fix the old build thread so it isn't a Fotopucket mess.
I was able to get my old pictures files again.

I thought some black contrasts on a white car might look good. Yeah, why not give it a try.
I cruised all the Miata aftermarket suppliers and settled on some parts from Moss Miata.
I purchased their turn signal intakes, smoked side markers, and rear tail lights with black highlights.
These bolt on items were easy to install.
Here is the result:

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Advice noted.
Should I paint the TSI’s white? Naw, after installing them I was not fond of the style anyway and they sure were heavy.
I went back to investigating various aftermarket turn signal intakes and side markers.
I finally decided to buy some Jet Stream TSI’s from Rev 9.
I also bought some clear side markers and a clear 3rd brake light from Moss Miata.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4379/3...5ae4f522_b.jpg

Big improvements, but the look is still not there.
The Jet Stream TSI’s do not accept the US Miata bulb holders and only support two wires. Also, the amber lights just don’t mesh with all the “clearsies”.

I have an idea…

I continued to scour the internet in the quest for some TSI clearsies.
Finally, I found something that might work!
I contacted Bill over at MiataRoadster to order some I.L. Motorsport NAB-1552 winkers.

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I went to work trying to figure out if I could make an 1157 bulb fit inside the winker.
I did make it work, but I was worried the standard 1157 bulb would make the interior of the winker run so hot it would start melting the lens.
What to do?
Ah ha, I have seen Diode Dynamics advertising LED bulbs. That should cool things down a bit.
I searched their site and found an 1157 style high intensity bulb that would emit white light in the parking light mode and amber light when in blinker mode. I like that, different is good! Perhaps using the brighter parking lights in the daytime (with the rear tail lights running also) will aid in making the car more visible to the texting fools.

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Next, how to hold the 1157 style factory bulb holders?
Another Ah ha moment!
I can use part of the old Moss Miata TSI’s.

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Now I just need to marry the winker to the 1157 factory bulb holder.

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I hope I can integrate these properly into the Jet Stream Turn Signal Intakes without messing them up.
Freehand Dremel here we go.

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Success!
Now to see how they look on the car.
Then check how effective the lighting will be in the daytime and at night.

love the work and creativity. white NAs for the win!!!:slayer:

Ok Rene! You know I am all :popcorn:!

Quit teasing and let's see the Eco smoke test the tire grip!

Peace my fellow Nut!

http://i.imgur.com/9Icb9yf.gif

Here is a close-up of a finished TSI clearsie light.
I like that you can see the colored components of the Diode Dynamics LED bulb through the clear lens.
I got lucky, the bulb is fairly well centered.

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Still a hint of the colored components of the LED as you back away. More when it is in the sunlight.

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Here is the daytime look with the lights off. I am now happy with the results.
It should be even better after the Bling driving lights are installed and my custom bumper air intake is completed.

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And an early evening shot with all the lights on.

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The parking lights work great! It is really trick when you turn on the blinker with the parking lights on. It changes from white to amber and back to accomplish the blinking.
I may even leave the front side marker lights red. Ticket bait???
The side markers are clear when the lights are off.

PRESENT CONFIGURATION
• 1992 Miata LS
• 5 Speed
• 4.30 Viscous LSD rear end
• 1.6 with BEGI Turbo with stock ECU (approximately 140hp)
• power steering
• air conditioning

FUTURE GOALS:
• Additional power and driveability.
• Reliability and long life.
• Easy to service.
• Linear power for improved driver control at the limit.
• Try Autocross.
• Attend a track day and pass a FRS/BRZ.
• Drive the Tail of the Dragon.
• Fall tour with the wife.
• High speed highway travel with air conditioning. (wifey requirement)
• Maintain weight balance for handling.
• Power steering.
• No science projects.

WHY DID I CONSIDER AN ENGINE SWAP OVER MAZDA ENGINE MODIFICATIONS?
• The 1.6 turbo engine lacked power & torque until 5000 rpm’s. The 1.6 being a small displacement engine will always be down on torque at lower rpm’s. The early 1.8 is not much of an increase.
• A Mazda 1.8 with VVT is an option coupled to a turbo. This was weighed against going with a different engine manufacturer. Wiring a VVT with an aftermarket ECU in an early Miata seemed tricky but has been done. It would be one busy engine bay.
• Any Mazda engine would need major modifications to handle more power. High power with mods usually means less reliability and high cost.
• The engine compartment is already cluttered and would need more items added for modifications & reliability. (coolant re-route, oil cooler, large intercooler, additional plumbing & wiring, etc)
• I have read too many disappointing stories versus success stories. I want to be wrenching to make continuous improvements, not re-fixing what was done before.

WHY DID I SELECT THE GM ECOTEC 2.4L ENGINE?
• EcotecMiata proven kit. Link: https://www.ecotecmiata.ca/
• Turnkey option at reasonable cost. Link: http://mtmotorsport.ca/
• I can get a NEW GM factory engine at a low cost. Not used, not rebuilt, NEW!
• More displacement translates to more torque. I do not need a turbo to meet my goals.
• The GM Ecotec will run close to limit of what the Miata drivetrain can withstand. If I picked a higher power path, I would be looking at breaking things.
• Reliability in all situations. Highway, around town, and at the track.
• Lots of aftermarket support and modifications for Ecotec. A Chevrolet turbo Cobalt set the fastest Nürburgring lap time for a stock FWD production car. Not too shabby, so future tweaks are available if you got the itch. I think I’m good with non-turbo and a tune!
• Uncluttered engine bay. No turbo or supercharger plumbing. No coolant re-route.
• Technology…You get newer GM technology that creates a flat torque curve while still being able to rev to 7000 rpm’s.. This gives you better control when pushing the car at the limit.
• No timing belt to change.
• No additional weight. Handling and PPF are un-affected.
• No cooling issues, no re-route kit required.
• Total cost
• Because Detroit!

Here is a horsepower & torque chart for a direct injected Ecotec 2.4 engine. If I can achieve similar figures with a header, performance exhaust, and a tune… I will be very happy!

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Here is a representative picture of the engine. Yes the cover will need to go.

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WHY NOT K-MIATA, FORD V8, LFX, OR LS ??
• K-MIATA was an option, but used engines are a crap shoot. The kit is expensive. I do not see support for air conditioning. It has less torque at the lower end than a GM Ecotec engine.
• FORD V8 – I bought the conversion book to understand all the details. In the end, I did not like the excess front end weight, old engine technology, and the exhaust system routing off the engine is a nightmare. Ground clearance of the exhaust is also a problem.
• GM LFX – This is my all time favorite engine conversion. Just perfect. The only problem is the budget quickly escalates to USD $25K~30K for a turn-key build with a used motor.
• GM LS – Yes excellent, but the cost even exceeds the LFX. At this point I would be looking at a substantial down payment on a new Corvette.

PLANNED CONFIGURATION FOR THE GM ECOTEC TURN-KEY BUILD
• NEW GM 2.4L Ecotec engine straight from GM in the crate.
• Change to a Torsen 3.9 rear end. This will facilitate highway driving goals and utilize the torque of the Ecotec engine. Will also be installing a new driveshaft & axles. (needed for the Torsen swap when installing in an early NA Miata) If I am not satisfied with the 3.9 ratio I can change to other Torsen gear ratios down the road.
• New clutch & brake master cylinders since the pedal assembly must be removed anyway to install a GM gas pedal assembly.
• New clutch slave cylinder and stainless steel line. A good time to do it.
• New throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch assembly.
• Air conditioning kit by Ecotecmiata. (Uses BMW compressor)
• Power steering kit by Ecotecmiata. (Uses GM power steering pump)
• Eliminate cruise control to un-clutter engine bay.
• Wiring harness by Ecotecmiata.
• New radiator and hoses.
• Header with performance exhaust
• ECU dyno tune

The Miata, I mean the Eunos is all ready for the scheduled journey the next morning.

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I woke up early in the morning and it seemed to be the start of a perfect day. The Michigan sky was clear blue with a temperature of 60F/15C degrees going to 78F/26C degrees in the afternoon. No rain was in the forecast. I could smell Lake Erie in the air and hear the morning boaters heading out. I was so excited to take my first real drive in the Manticore.
I head to the car with my travel bag packed with tools and supplies. I am ready to hit the road. The first milestone is taking the car to speed on I-75 and head into Detroit city. I need to fear gravel trucks and hope I don’t have the dreaded freeway shaking I read about. Everything is good, zoom zoom!
Next destination is the Detroit-Windsor tunnel. As I enter the streets of downtown Detroit I open the windows to hear the Grand Prix racers howling on Belle Isle. Such glorious sounds for a perfect day. I then enter the tunnel that goes under the Detroit river and to hear another glorious sound of the 1.6 liter Miata engine echoing off the walls. Life is good!
I am now in Windsor, Ontario, Canada viewing the Detroit skyline while still hearing the Grand Prix racers as background music.

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After the waterfront stop in Windsor, it’s off to the 401 Queen’s Highway for a 3-1/2 hour drive to Richmond Hill, Ontario Canada. (near Toronto) YES, the car is on it’s way to MT Motorsport Ecotec Miata for the turn-key build.

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The Eunos performed flawlessly on the trip. The air conditioning even worked! It was so much fun even though there was no twisties to be had. (Although it did see 87mph/140km several times!)

Matt (right) & Ryan at MT Motorsport (EcotecMiata) seem to be passionate about their craft.
They are very easy to work with.
Here they are with my Miata. (The Eunos Manticore!)

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Matt is really busy supporting all sides of the business. Product development, internet sales, and in-house modifications. So give him some slack if he does not immediately get back to you. You may need to send a follow-up.
Here is my NEW engine!

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I will update everyone on the workmanship and driving impressions upon completion of the conversion.

did they give you any kind of ETA on the completion time? very excited to see where this goes!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phatmiata

did they give you any kind of ETA on the completion time? very excited to see where this goes!

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I am hoping for completion sometime in September.
The EcotecMiata team will keep me updated with their progress while sending me pictures.
I will be posting more updates and pictures soon.

Omg, my best friend and I have talked about going this route for so long. Awesome to see the progress!!

This is the EcotecMiata flywheel assembly installed onto the Ecotec 2.4 engine.

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Here is the driver’s side engine mount and starter installed.

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This is the right-side engine mount and the header!
That header should look mighty fine in the engine compartment while providing a few extra ponies.

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Right lower side view:

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Left lower side view:

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Checking the transmission:

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Is that the oil sump hanging out front? (the black box)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kung fu jesus

Is that the oil sump hanging out front? (the black box)

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Yes

Is there any protection for it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kung fu jesus

Is there any protection for it?

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No.

My plan was to see if one of those lower engine covers by LRB Speed would fit. If not, modify it as required.
At the same time I was going to add a Setrab oil cooler, oil thermostat, and remote oil filter plate.

I already bought the engine oil filter adapter from CBM Motorsport.

http://store.custombuiltmotors.com/o...7cbm10813w.JPG

If I work it out right oil changes will be a breeze. I can add an access plate to the LRB cover for the oil filter while using a Fumoto oil drain valve.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kung fu jesus

Is there any protection for it?

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Same thing that protects the oem oil pan, the subframe. It looks like the sump is still higher than the subframe to me....actually it looks like it is higher than the oem sump.

Not really. The OE sump sits behind the front sub, it wraps around it. That one is a little higher but still with little protection. The proximity to the underdrive pulley also concerns me.

Don't mean to poo on the thread.

All comments are welcome.
That what makes a build thread interesting.
At the same time, alternative comments and ideas give me some things to think about and possibly make improvements.
==================
What do you think of this Beatrush Aluminum Underpanel?

http://www.good-win-racing.com/miata...Aunderbody.jpg

Goodwin Racing says 6~8 weeks for shipping from Japan.
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/61-0047.html
Maybe I should get one on order?

I do like those for potential aero if anything else.

Is the sump made from AL or steel? Perhaps a piece of angle across the leading edge to protect it from the initial impact? Maybe channel your vintage Audi background to see what the rally guys use for protection? 1/4" Al would probably be enough. The idea would be something to take the hit and deflect the car upward, rather than tearing, denting or puncturing the sump. I am only concerned because I bottomed out hard enough going over a hump in the road at low speed to bend and shear the steering rack mounting tabs on mine many years ago.

I think the LRB Speed piece is a better value: http://lrbspeed.com/product/na-miata...num-belly-pan/

Personally I try to support small businesses any time I can. I had one on Warbird and loved it and plan on getting another for Misfire.

That's a nice piece. Made a full width one out of corrugated plastic for an endurance car. That looks similar M3 front pans/aero tray (e36).

Bump.

How is the EcoTec? It is September....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MX5Wisher

Bump.

How is the EcoTec? It is September....

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It is running behind schedule. They have been doing a lot of R&D racing.
It should be completed in October.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MiataQuest

All comments are welcome.
That what makes a build thread interesting.
At the same time, alternative comments and ideas give me some things to think about and possibly make improvements.
==================
What do you think of this Beatrush Aluminum Underpanel?

http://www.good-win-racing.com/miata...Aunderbody.jpg

Goodwin Racing says 6~8 weeks for shipping from Japan.
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...t/61-0047.html
Maybe I should get one on order?

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I ordered one a couple of years back from Rev9, I chose the NA6 option for the obvious reason of owning an NA6 chassis. For the younger models the panel is split in half and attaches at two separate points. Whilst the first panel lined up beautifully where the old undertray would go to protect the engine, the panel that attaches to the front subframe didn't line up at all regardless of where I tried to put it. It was just too short...

I need to botch that at some point to make it fit properly, the NA8 one piece Panel might fit perfectly all over, the two I got doesn't.... .02c shared hahah :lol:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DarylSibcy

I ordered one a couple of years back from Rev9, I chose the NA6 option for the obvious reason of owning an NA6 chassis. For the younger models the panel is split in half and attaches at two separate points. Whilst the first panel lined up beautifully where the old undertray would go to protect the engine, the panel that attaches to the front subframe didn't line up at all regardless of where I tried to put it. It was just too short...

I need to botch that at some point to make it fit properly, the NA8 one piece Panel might fit perfectly all over, the two I got doesn't.... .02c shared hahah :lol:

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So if I understand you correctly, your NA6 under-panel came as two pieces, not one piece like the picture.
You think the NA8 panel is one piece?

I will want to get the car back first to check how the Ecotec fitment is and do more research before I make the purchase.

Thanks for your input.

Oooh, we must be getting close??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MX5Wisher

Oooh, we must be getting close??

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They keep pushing out the date. I am a bit disappointed.
I am trying to work with them since my end goal is to have everything done right.
I will reserve my reviews to the finished product & workmanship.
I am hoping the engine conversion will be completed in the next few weeks.

If Toronto gets snow and they drop salt on the road, I may need to figure out how to get an enclosed trailer when it is completed. We are in that small window where any snow could just melt when it hits the roads and when it can stick. Heck, today it will be 65 degrees F (18C) with a chance for strong thunderstorms! The trees seem to be a week or two behind schedule for dropping all their leaves.
I will be watching the weather closely over the next few weeks from Detroit on up the 401 Queens highway to Toronto.

When it is completed I can give a preliminary overview, but I won't be driving the car in any salt to provide a good road review. Plus I want to break-in the new engine for 1500 miles then install an oil cooler before pushing it.

http://apr_blog.s3.amazonaws.com/blo...d-1024x768.jpg

A few updates….
Here is the Cadillac CTS gas pedal mounted to the pedal cluster.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4531/2...8bfefedb_b.jpg

The stronger 3.9 Torsen rear end has been installed to replace the 4.3 viscous rear end. This 3.9 rear end ratio should place the 2.4 Ecotec engine with 5 speed transmission gearing in the sweet spot between performance and the ability to cruise effortlessly during high speed highway cruising. Hopefully the performance exhaust will have no drone with all the tone.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4558/3...d957601e_b.jpg

One of my biggest goals was to have an uncluttered engine bay that allowed easy service even with air conditioning and power steering. So far it looks promising. Note that the Ecotec 2.4 has the intake & exhaust on opposite sides from the Miata 1.6 engine. I like that because the brake master cylinder will now be on the cooler side of the engine.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4551/2...a344bbec_b.jpg

I hope the conversion is completed before it has a birthday!

https://img.purch.com/w/660/aHR0cDov...QyXzAyLmpwZw==

Latest update...

Last week I spoke with Matt @ EcotecMiata.
He says they are catching up from supporting the racing season and should be able to complete my Ecotec conversion.
Besides, they need the floor space.

So it's being queued-up into their work schedule.
They will be sending me more pictures as they progress.

I am re-energized about the build and getting ready for lift-off.

EcotecMiata starting all their correspondence emails like this?

https://media1.tenor.com/images/2b25...itemid=8824598

;)

Good to hear it is still moving forward.

will this be a stock version 2.4 EcoTech swap or Turbo'd? If its anything like the Mazda 2.3L it will have lots of low end torque!

Also looks like its brand new in that photo, is that a crate engine?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phatmiata

will this be a stock version 2.4 EcoTech swap or Turbo'd? If its anything like the Mazda 2.3L it will have lots of low end torque!

Also looks like its brand new in that photo, is that a crate engine?

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Yes, it is a brand new GM crate motor.
My plan is not to have a turbo. I am looking for simplicity/reliability while increasing performance close to the limits of the Miata drivetrain.
It will have a header, performance exhaust, and dyno tune.

I have rented a lot of N/A Ecotec powered cars for business trips over the years.
I was very impressed with the power/torque curve across the entire RPM range while still being a high revving engine. I believe it will really compliment the character of the Miata chassis.

I hope it can "do it all" with the 3.9 Torsen rear end and 5 speed.
* High speed, long distance highway cruising while using air conditioning.
* High speed!
* Keep it revved through the twisties for the ultimate Miata experience
* Autocross
* Occasional track day, pass a BRZ, keep up with better Miata drivers.

Today I got an update from Matt over at EcotecMiata.
The engine may be fired up tomorrow!
The completion date should be soon after that!
I am so excited :smileybounce:

Now this is a sleigh ride!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAwX...ature=youtu.be

The engine had it's initial start-up! Then the low mileage used transmission that I provided to them had a leak in the case halves. I had them split & re-seal the transmission. That was recently completed. It should now just about be ready for the dyno-tune. The preliminary schedule now is for completion sometime in early March depending on the weather.

Some other notes:
Ecotecmiata now offers an improved 4140 steel flywheel adapter with the latest kits.

Ecotecmiata is also working on a new kit that will utilize the Solstice AR5 transmission with the Miata PPF. This is good for higher horsepower applications such as running a Solstice GXP or Saturn Sky Redline turbo engine. A simple tune and exhaust nets over 300 horsepower. Also the turbo engine has a different flywheel bolt pattern. Going with the AR5 transmission allows for the original flywheel and clutch assembly to be used without any adapters.

WoW :slayer:

The Ecotecmiata LE5 2.4 Ecotec engine conversion is now complete. Matt will give the car a second inspection to make sure everything is OK for a trip from Toronto to Detroit. If OK I may be able to pick it up later this week.

Here is a video of the initial tune on the NEW engine. It sounds like it is running very crisp throughout the RPM range.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PLaise_0dI&feature=youtu.be

Awesome! :slayer: So Manticore will still have functional a.c.?

awesome that was not bad of a turnaround either!!!

cant wait to hear/see some in car footage

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000

Awesome! :slayer: So Manticore will still have functional a.c.?

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Yes, it was a requirement dictated by the wife. :D

It might be a bit difficult to test when I drive it home as the temps are only in the 20's and 30's.

Wait until the weather clears.

I will be picking up the Miata this Saturday from MT Motorsports (Ecotecmiata) in Toronto, Ontario Canada.
The weather should be 22~37 degrees and sunny.
Hopefully I have no problems during the 4 hour return drive.

Road trips involving new, or improved cars are great! Safe travels, I hope the new drivetrain exceeds expectations!

-Matt

Years ago (before I had kids and became broke) I had Clint Host in Houston install an FM3 turbo system on my old '96. The drive from Houston back to Bentonville was pretty fun :mrgreen:

Good luck on your drive :)

I will be smiling the whole way even though the 407 & 401 Queen's Highway is straight as an arrow with a speed limit of 62 mph. But it does have nice pavement with no pot holes!

The engine is NEW so I will try to follow a break-in driving routine of regular mild acceleration and de-acceleration and not keep a steady speed. That may irritate my fellow drivers. Hopefully there will not be much traffic on a Saturday.

New and shiny engine. Sounds like a dream.

So now it's time to start planning mods of the engine? :slayer:

The dyno run was 189 horsepower with 191 lb ft torque. After the engine is broken-in I would assume it will add a few more ponies.

I had no problems during the 4-1/2 hour drive from Toronto to Detroit.
I varied my speed from 62 to 85 mph and did a lot of light acceleration and de-acceleration for break-in purposes.

My initial impressions are very positive. It is so much better than the 1.6 turbo that was in the car. Torque coupled with a linear power curve really enhances the driving experience without changing the weight/handling characteristics of the Miata. I like the uncomplicated engine bay without all the turbo and intercooling plumbing.
I would say all my goals were met.

Here is a picture of the engine bay including air conditioning, power steering, and oil cooler hoses.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4776/2...6e397c78_b.jpg

I have some work to do the car over the next 4 weeks while I wait for the last snow and a good rain to wash away all the salt. After that I will give additional driving impressions and really put my foot in it after 1,500 miles of engine break-in.

Those are indeed 2554R 1.6L HP numbers, from a naturally aspirated motor! Exhaust is away from the brakes, and it looks right at home in there, very OEM-like. Good stuff!

-Matt

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MLambert19

Those are indeed 2554R 1.6L HP numbers, from a naturally aspirated motor! Exhaust is away from the brakes, and it looks right at home in there, very OEM-like. Good stuff!

-Matt

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The big difference is that with 2.4 liters and some modern technology the engine has a broad torque curve. The Ecotec 2.4 power is NOW at just about any time. The turbo 1.6 fell on it's face unless you were over 5000 rpms which gave the effect of an ON & OFF switch. The 1.6 turbo was not fun to drive unless you exceeded 7/10.

MacGyver'ed a lower radiator hose support... It was made from two different exhaust hangers plus a plumbing junction from the hardware store. The lower hose passes underneath the air conditioner and would rest on the tie rod. I think this should work well and not wear the hose.
We will see.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/902/41...6d64c0db_b.jpg

Installed
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/798/40...10779fc3_b.jpg

I am experimenting with a 1964 Buick Wildcat grill bar.
It seems to work with my theme to create the "Eunos Manticore special edition".

In the picture the grill bar is just sitting there not quite located right. But you get the affect.
Imagine it with a Eunos Chevron style emblem or Manticore emblem in the center (so air can still flow around the emblem) to replace the Buick emblems. The tow hook would need to be re-located to look right.

What do you think?

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/794/40...9594ddc9_b.jpg

It will go with this front lip spoiler that just arrived today. I still did not open the box.
https://rev9autosport.com/media/cata...-075_thumb.jpg

Perhaps a custom metal pipe with the ends bead-rolled, joined by rubber hoses? I like it as a temp fix, but is it protected by an undertray?

Not feeling the Buick bar.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kung fu jesus

Perhaps a custom metal pipe with the ends bead-rolled, joined by rubber hoses? I like it as a temp fix, but is it protected by an undertray?

Not feeling the Buick bar.

---

That is a good idea. I think I will work on that.
I should be able to find a hose connector from summit then machine a nice bracket and get it welded.
It should be protected by the Beatrush belly pan.

On the Buick grill bar it is still up in the air.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MiataQuest

That is a good idea. I think I will work on that.
I should be able to find a hose connector from summit then machine a nice bracket and get it welded.
It should be protected by the Beatrush belly pan.

On the Buick grill bar it is still up in the air.

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Regarding the Buick cue, the opening sits so low and far back on these cars, it is hard to see unless you stoop down to see or you are 20 feet away. It’s also shadowed by the bumper overhang, so the highly reflective finish doesn’t pop like it wants. A brushed finish might counter that, or a contrasting backdrop/accent lighting?

I assume the coolant hose support clears with the suspension in full compression?

Easy-peasy install of the Revlimiter light mahogany wooden shift knob (tall 911 style) with Eunos emblem along with a light mahogany wooden brake handle.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/883/39...1520fb27_b.jpg

My sway bar would contact the Ecotec crankshaft pulley nut under load. It would create a high pitched whistle noise that sounded like vacuum leak and the power would decline due to the knock sensor. The sway bar was very close to the pulley and the existing bolts would not allow any further movement of the sway bar bracket.
I bought some metric “socket head cap screws” and thick washers. I ground the washers with a flat on one side. The new combination gave me about 3.5mm more forward movement of the sway bar mounts. I then completed the set-up by adjusting the end links per instructions noted by 949 Racing that I found on YouTube.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/783/40...1f9dfc60_b.jpg

I marked up the Ecotec engine pulley nut with black ink where it was previously ground away to a shiny finish. I took it on a 20 mile drive late last night subjecting the drive-train to various conditions. No more problems.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/880/41...4043a444_b.jpg

I figure the new drivetrain (engine, adapter, transmission, and rear end) settled-in after my driving and I just had to make some adjustments.

Installing vents from a Pontiac Sunbird. Bet you never seen a turbo Sunbird!
http://www.2040-cars.com/_content/ca...352073/001.jpg

Before powder coating
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4640/2...018b1ed2_b.jpg

Low pressure zones were taken into consideration when laying out the vents.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4638/2...807877a8_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7827/3...2f61b6a5_b.jpg

Rough cut
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7833/4...80dd7573_b.jpg

I will post up the final results when finished and polish the hood.

That shifter looks sharp with the Eunos logo.

You are planning to polish the hood? Man that is a hellava undertaking, I’ve seen a few done in Japan and a local guy did it on his silver NC, it’s something I’d love to try but after polishing my valve cover on the 96 miata I realized it’s a lot more labor intensive than I had time for. Will be waiting to see this!! Also if you can locate an M2-1028 trunklid they are aluminum as well and you could polish that too.


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7852/...ec340697_z.jpgPolished Hood Miata by Randy George, on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7848/...f8aae69f_z.jpgPolished Miata Hood by Randy George, on Flickr

Dooh...I should have been more specific. I only want to polish the white paint on the hood.
I have not compounded or polished the car yet and I wanted to see how it cleans up. (It is lightly faded and scratched) That will also help me prep the paint next to the cuts so I can add some black paint to seal the edges from corrosion and eliminate any white that may be visible if you looked inside the vents.

My theme is a special edition car and a polished hood would not work very well.
I am not a fan of the look while it must be a pain to drive in the sun with all the reflections.

I may also try to take off the Miata stickers on the fenders, Mazda sticker on the front bumper, and the pin striping while I am at it.
I want to add a couple visual enhancements from my stash to get motivated while I have some time to work on it before getting back to the Mustang II. Maybe add the fender winkers next?

I am stalled on the last thing I need to do to the Mustang II to have it ready for the wife. I need to change the rear end assembly. I have a 1978 Mustang V8 rear end in my rented storage garage and I can't get it out of the garage. One of the renters at the house has his car booted and GPS tracked by police. (drinking issues) His car is blocking the garage door.

While I wait on him to resolve his problem I can sneak in some Miata garage time.

The Sunbird vents are installed.

I think I should have gone with matte black rather than the gloss black powder coating. But I am happy with the potential for functionality, especially with the locations.

The Crystal White paint on the Miata is full of dings, scratches, chips, flakes, etc but it does make a nice 10 footer, well maybe a 20 footer!

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7892/4...bbfaf1b8_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7894/3...13607c1f_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7916/4...2e9e7b0a_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7833/3...c705a607_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7888/3...a9f99b67_b.jpg

Hello Eunos Manticore Special Edition !
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7844/4...a8fed53b_b.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MiataQuest

Hello Eunos Manticore Special Edition !
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7844/4...a8fed53b_b.jpg

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Please. No. Stop.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hammerhead

Please. No. Stop.

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https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/...71/240/234.png

I was thinking of this build the other day reading how a local guy converted to a GM electric steering rack with adjustable (electronic) steering feedback and effort. It was amazing work, he did it to run 9” wide r-comps for autocross.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kung fu jesus

I was thinking of this build the other day reading how a local guy converted to a GM electric steering rack with adjustable (electronic) steering feedback and effort. It was amazing work, he did it to run 9” wide r-comps for autocross.

---

When I had a Volvo 1800ES there was a few people that adapted electric steering from a Chevrolet Cobalt.

Here is a recently released electric power steering kit from Kmiata ready for a Miata.
See the link.
https://kmiata.com/products/electric-power-steering-kit

I think the side vents are a bit autozone, id have to vote that one down as well

I received some negative comments on the Mini Cooper winkers from Hammerhead. I really admire his build and did not want to be a copycat especially since I will have the same wing. I was determined that I could make the Mini Cooper vents work to be different. Hey, it’s just one guy’s opinion.

Then I got the same negative comment from the “Guru of all things Miata”.
Hmmm, maybe I had better rethink this.
Naw, I will just throw it out there on Facebook Miata Club and find a bunch of youngsters with slammed cars telling me it’s awesome!

Yes, and they sent me many encouraging messages on the winkers.

https://media.giphy.com/media/v9AKHhCnrQ4rS/giphy.gif

https://media.giphy.com/media/26gs6v...Ygso/giphy.gif

https://media.giphy.com/media/ac7MA7r5IMYda/giphy.gif

https://au.reachout.com/-/media/youn...5FB3BB10D33AF1

https://media1.tenor.com/images/a2b1...itemid=7663264


OK, idea scrapped!

Ya I didn't want to dog pile on you Rene but I felt the same in all honesty. :teehee:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000

Ya I didn't want to dog pile on you Rene but I felt the same in all honesty. :teehee:

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Feel free to comment in the future.
That is what is great about the forum is to have discussions with different opinions.
In this case it probably saved me from something I would have regretted.

I think I found something better and it is not a JDM/Euro winker style either.
I will float that design to everyone in about 2 weeks. It will be shipped from across the pond.

Part of the problem is they look too "tacked" on and don't match the lines of the fender or doors. If you're trying to emulate the style of the 190 you posted on your first post, some "OE Flares" make more sense IMO.

If you're looking to just change it up, a fender cut similar to Ryan Passey's car have always appealed to me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MiataQuest

Feel free to comment in the future.
That is what is great about the forum is to have discussions with different opinions.
In this case it probably saved me from something I would have regretted.

I think I found something better and it is not a JDM/Euro winker style either.
I will float that design to everyone in about 2 weeks. It will be shipped from across the pond.

---

My comments were really just some good-natured ribbing. I feel badly that it ended up with you changing your plans and I hope you changed them for you and not for us. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hammerhead

My comments were really just some good-natured ribbing. I feel badly that it ended up with you changing your plans and I hope you changed them for you and not for us. :)

---

I know you were ribbing me. But at the same time it made me step back and question my design direction. I am glad you guys did comment.

I have always been inspired by this MazdaSpeed A-Spec Type II car.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7844/...9d339f03_b.jpg

Then these pop up for sale by nqjr on MazdaRoadster. I just had to have them to match my MazdaSpeed A-Spec Type II wing.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7915/...9aa6e83b_b.jpg

So I purchased them on the condition that they be well packed not to cause any damage during shipping.
This is what I received!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7905/...aa567cc4_b.jpg

Wow, these were really well packed.
The garage was a sea of packing popcorn as I removed the bubble wrapped side-skirts. They arrived without any damage.

Now I need to reconfigure my project plans.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7880/...dc4b7fb9_o.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7821/...00e5b6f5_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7861/...8c6f1156_b.jpg

CollinMB says:
===================
"If you're trying to emulate the style of the 190 you posted on your first post, some "OE Flares" make more sense IMO".
===================
Yes, I agree, I already purchased a set.
They will be on the car in Crystal white body color similar to the picture.

Another reason I like them is because I have the dreaded Crystal White paint that easily flakes off. I was worried that rolling the fender wells could create some problems. So I figure I could cut away some fender well lip at the top as required underneath the small flares.

https://rev9autosport.com/media/cata...es_thumb_1.jpg

I like the new plans a lot! Not sure on the wheels, as this is a 90s build.. and IMO the ultimate 90s wheels would be a set of 3-spoke Advans or something.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HarryB

I like the new plans a lot! Not sure on the wheels, as this is a 90s build.. and IMO the ultimate 90s wheels would be a set of 3-spoke Advans or something.

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Thanks!

I like the look of these wheels from the 80's and 90's. (Black centers, machined lips, and red or yellow centers) They really work on a white car. (Well in my old guy mind)
https://assets.hemmings.com/blog/wp-...e-911-7942.jpg

I picked the Enkei wheels because they are strong for our pot holed 3rd world roads we have here in Michigan. (Thanks Steven for bringing strength into the Michigan equation)
I already have them.

I plan to get two more set of wheels.
One for going to out-of-town events (probably Rays TE37) and another set of wheels/tires as a dedicated track set-up.
===============
Question to all: What are those wheels on that yellow MazdaSpeed A-Spec type II car above? They look like Rays TE37's??

Those would be perfect for my out-of-town event wheels!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MiataQuest

I like the look of these wheels from the 80's and 90's. (Black centers, machined lips, and red center caps) They really work on a white car. (Well in my old guy mind)

Question to all: What are those wheels on that yellow MazdaSpeed A-Spec type II car above? The look like Rays TE37's??

Those would be perfect for my out-of-town event wheels!

---

Mazdaspeed by RAYS MS01R is what's on the yellow car above...

-Matt

I installed a Flyin Miata fire extinguisher mount under the passenger seat. I bought the fire extinguisher from Summit Racing.
Yes, that floor mat with "Miata" has to go along with the "Miata" on the door sills.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4883/...26a99cc1_b.jpg

I installed a Revlimiter Eunos "V" emblem on the front bumper.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4902/...5a84408c_b.jpg

I located the emblem in a similar location as the MazdaSpeed A-Spec type II picture even though my eyes wanted me to place it a little lower.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4889/...7e89a931_b.jpg

I bought these 5 inch diameter Hella fog lights along with H3 100W bulbs. I plan to use these fog lights similar to daylight driving lights to draw attention to my location in traffic. The yellow light may make someone double check their mirrors.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4823/...53d3a6bf_b.jpg

I like the look. It just needs some reinforcement of the metal tabs of the car. The tabs flex allowing the lights to bounce. I have a piece of aluminum that will extend light to light to fix that problem.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7871/...10cf0c83_b.jpg

The strut bar was pushing into the Ecotec intake hose causing a depression. This could have caused the strut bar to wear through the hose and could reduce air flow at WOT.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7865/...225a6317_b.jpg

Fixed by spacing the strut bar back.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4806/...d51f2032_b.jpg
.

I like them foglights a lot; just pay attention to your coolant temp as they seemingly block a good portion of the opening. Regarding the silicone coupler, I think you could trim a bit the part coming off the engine intake so to place the bend itself lower.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HarryB

Regarding the silicone coupler, I think you could trim a bit the part coming off the engine intake so to place the bend itself lower.

---

The air cleaner pipe assembly is a tight fit and cannot be placed differently. So the hose routing cannot be dropped lower.

Hella Fog lights are installed.
I still need to do the wiring.

I have Diode Dynamics LED TSI lights and these fog lights to bring attention to people in their rear view mirrors. I just installed a MossMiata LED 3rd brake light for the rear end.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7904/...e630c1a6_b.jpg

Remaining items for the front end...
* Paint Jetstream front spoiler Crystal White and install.
* Add aircraft brake vents (Will copy GreaseMonkey 2000 except they will be black)
* Turn-buckles to secure the lower bumper and the JetStream front spoiler
* Aerocatch hood latches with keys for improved theft protection and to put a full radiator panel to improve air flow.
* Beatrush belly pan
I will probably do these items after I get the cooling system re-plumbed.

Revlimiter custom wheel cap inserts.
https://live.staticflickr.com/7900/4...e218080b_b.jpg

Here is how they will look on the Enkei 15x8 J Speed wheels.
https://live.staticflickr.com/7890/3...c8feb7bb_b.jpg

Any updates Rene?:winky:

I did something crazy and bought a lake house as my primary residence.
It is a financial stretch and (barely) within commuting distance to work.
So I have been so busy moving, fixing the old house to sell, and fixing all the problems with the lake house before winter sets in.

The only Miata update I have is I drove the Eunos Manticore 54 miles to lake house garage last week before it snowed to avoid any salt.

I just priced a new dock and jet ski lift. I am going to need about $8500 this spring!
I am getting pressured to sell the Miata if my old house does not sell by spring time if I want the dock.
Since I have 3 watercraft's, the lake is useless without the dock.

https://photos.zillowstatic.com/p_f/...1000000000.jpg

Oh boy, that place looks amazing! Care to share a few more photos?

Nice! I miss lakeside living. My grandparents had a house on a lake in northern Iowa (East Lake Okoboji) and I spent most of my summers and as many weekends as I could there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HarryB

Oh boy, that place looks amazing! Care to share a few more photos?

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When I was growing up, my grandmother and uncles had a cottage on a nearby lake.
I spent all my summers there and had many fond memories.
I hope I can do the same for the my grandchildren.

It is a small cottage that was built in 1950 that kept getting refurbished and enlarged.
It has been modified in 3 stages making for a poor floor plan, poor workmanship, and small bedrooms.
But it is all about the lakefront, sandy bottom, and inviting friends. (You are all welcome to drop by if you are in the Detroit area in the summer)

I even have the same boats from the old cottage that are still in very good condition.
One is a 1974 powerboat and a 1960 rowboat!

The lot is not very much wider than the deck, but it does have a 2-1/2 car garage!
The garage has no heat and the house has no air conditioning.
I promised the wife to have central air conditioning installed if we bought the lake house.

https://photos.zillowstatic.com/p_f/...0000000000.jpg

https://photos.zillowstatic.com/p_f/...0000000000.jpg

https://photos.zillowstatic.com/p_f/...0000000000.jpg

I had tossed around the idea to sell the Miata Manticore to get a dock and lift.
But I think I will keep the Manticore to finish my vision, it will just be delayed.

Here are the Enkei wheels mounted. It will need the fenders rolled as the rear tires will rub on bumps.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...07e9c16b_b.jpg

And here is a picture of the the interior after moving the Manticore to the lake house.
I plan to keep the interior pretty much as it is except for a Revlimiter custom speedometer face to adjust for the 3:90 rear end and a roll bar because of the intended driving style. I got the new floormats installed but still need to install the Roadster doorsills.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9834ac6b_b.jpg

I need to buy a car cover to protect it from UV rays as this garage has many windows unlike the old garage.
That can be my Christmas gift!

Really liking the wheels!

This past fall I performed some maintenance to prepare the Manticore for it's winter slumber.
One of the actions was to run out the old gas and warm up the oil.
So a long afternoon drive on twisty roads with fall colors was mandatory.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...485f074e_b.jpg

I fell in love with my unfinished project all over again. I want to finish it!
My timeline to finish this project could be long, but I will enjoy the journey.

I sold our larger old house and we had way too much junk moving to this small house!
I finally got all the extra junk out of the garage. Downsizing was really tough on my wife.
Over the past few months I got the garage organized to be a functional work shop. I can find my tools again!
I even had the garage re-wired and a natural gas heater installed. Garage life is good now!

Right now I am working on fixing my intermittent starter cranking issue.
If you seen my walk-around video my car did not start :oops:
I will using a large starter relay under-hood to activate the starter solenoid.
The main power for the relay will come from the unused anti-lock brake fuse of the electrical box to the Ecotec starter solenoid.

Another big problem is that my Miata 5 speed shifts really bad.
I also had concerns about the Ecotec Miata flywheel adapter. Many people were shearing the flywheel bolts or shattering the automatic flexplate that is utilized with the adapter.
I decided to install an AR5 transmission set-up to eliminate the adapter plate and flywheel adapters (So similar to a stock Pontiac Solstice)
I purchased a nearly new AR5 transmission with just 40 miles on it from a Slingshot. I also bought everything I needed to complete the swap.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1dc20f76_b.jpg

Then Ecotec Miata came out with a new one piece flywheel. The racers were having good reliability and getting a spot on the podium.
I decided to give the Ecotec Miata path one more chance since I could try out a 6 speed Miata transmission.
I think the 6 speed will enhance the driving experience and allow the engine to work well with my 3:90 Torsen rear end.

I located a 2002 Mazda 6 speed with 33,000 miles about 25 minutes north of Chicago.
After Christmas I jumped in the 1979 Thunderbird and got it!
I knocked down 18.5 mpg heading west and 19 mpg on the easterly return. This was at 72 ~76 mph!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e30f190e_b.jpg

The journey has resumed!

Glad my fears the Manticore had been a casualty of your downsizing were completely incorrect. Great to see you back and excited again about this project!

Have Not much on white Miata's in the past, but seeing yours and how clean it looks with just the right little details, I'm changing my mind! What a Great Looking Car! I've had white cars and the heat savings and the not seeing swirls in the paint as well as looking clean longer are bonuses! Hope the 6 speed is all you want it to be and more. GOD BLESS

Please strip the paint off that Mazdaspeed type2 wing, that aluminum aerofoil is what makes that wing so special, to cover it with paint would be a shame. just my .02 cents

So now that you have the side skirts are you going to get the front MS bumper to match? or did you already track one down? this car has really become something amazing!!!! cant wait to see the side skirts painted and installed.

PS for the side decals, if you do that, why not have it say Mazdaspeed? it would looks so much better, and yes I get the Eunos manticore theme, but but Mazdaspeeeeeeeeeeeeed

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phatmiata

Please strip the paint off that Mazdaspeed type2 wing, that aluminum aerofoil is what makes that wing so special, to cover it with paint would be a shame. just my .02 cents

So now that you have the side skirts are you going to get the front MS bumper to match? or did you already track one down? this car has really become something amazing!!!! cant wait to see the side skirts painted and installed.

PS for the side decals, if you do that, why not have it say Mazdaspeed? it would looks so much better, and yes I get the Eunos manticore theme, but but Mazdaspeeeeeeeeeeeeed

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I agree that the wing should be bare aluminum. That is what makes it unique.
I will need to decide if it should be polished or a brushed finish. I also wonder how I should protect it. I was thinking clear anodize if it's polished (since it can adhere) or a clear coat if it's a brushed finish.
I may need to buy another trunk if I can't get my existing spoiler off without damage.

The only modification I plan to do to the wing is to add one small turn buckle at the rear of the car going from the aluminum wing to the trunk.
One of the Ecotec Miata racers was using one of these wings. He says they are very functional and helped his lap times.
However he said they flex down in the center at higher speeds. It was more stable when re-enforced.
Also this is what causes the cracking at both outer ends near the trunk.
"If you wing ain't cracking then your slacking".
Here is a pictures of the wing bowed going through a turn. It would really be stressed on the straights.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1f8b66a0_b.jpg

I really don't like the look of the MS bumper addition. So I bought a Jet Stream lip like the picture.
I removed my fog lights and will add some turn buckles to the Jet Stream lip to stabilize everything.
Also removing the fog lights allows more air to the oil cooler, air conditioning condenser, and the radiator.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...808b7f3b_o.jpg

The Jet Stream lip, MS side skirts, MS wing, and hard top will all be body color crystal white.

For the side stripe I was thinking something custom.
Maybe something like "A Spec Type II"
But I really need to understand what A spec encompasses so I don't look too stupid :oops:
Is that an obsolete category? I can't find anything about it other than "B" spec.

BTW, thanks everyone for all comments and opinions.
I always like to step back and re-evaluate my design directions.

Recently I have been bringing all my Miata and Ecotec parts back home from work.
That has allowed me to review the vision of the Manticore a little more.

I was looking at my Garage Vary rear panel along with the Porter LED lights.
I decided I have no love for the Porter lights. Every time I look at the Porter lights I think they belong on a trailer and not on a sports car. I know they have some vintage history, but they have no character.

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I am experimenting with these 1960 Ford Thunderbird tail lights with the Porter LED assembly under them. I already like them better than the Porter lights. I can buy these lens new if I ever need to replace them.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f84775dc_b.jpg

For further experimentation I bought a set of used 1959 Thunderbird tail lights off eBay. These tail lights have a chrome ring at the base and a center back-up light. These would probably require me to make a special bulb holder but I think the look would be very interesting. We will see which one wins over the next two weeks when I receive them.

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For the rear bumper I will be cutting-in this Mustang front vent. The rear white bumper with this black vent should look pretty good. It should be functional as well.

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Why not sell the porter cab lights and get led halo rings, etc. to complete the setup? Seems it would give you more creative freedom.


*P.S.- Look into infinity light taillights on YouTube, think you may like them...or not.

Good idea Greasemonkey2000 !

I went down the YouTube rabbit hole and liked what I saw. This also helps keep our small and low vehicles visible.
The installation does not seem very difficult.
The only issue I heard on YouTube is everyone says the LED Halo lights were "Sick". So I hope I can get a healthy set. 8^)
After a bit of research I will probably go with Diode Dynamic halos. https://www.diodedynamics.com/hd-led...ings-pair.html
I really like the quality and performance of the Diode Dynamic bulbs I installed into my TSI.

So I will probably sell the LED Porter lights to fund a set of Diode Dynamic halo rings.

It is sad to see “tsingson” liked my post only a couple weeks ago and now he is no longer with us.
My condolences to his family.

The 2.4L Ecotec engine had starter cranking problems. Most of the time it would just go “click”.
On my walk around video it didn’t start, how embarrassing!
I believe I am getting too much voltage drop and not enough amperage to the Solstice Ecotec starter using the Miata ignition switch.

I had some GM performance cars back in the 70’s that had cranking problems when the starter got hot. To fix the problem I added a Ford style starter solenoid to act as a “pre-solenoid” to get power directly from the battery to the starter solenoid. In that same theme I will try the same thing to solve my Ecotec cranking problem. It is a GM engine after all :D

Step 1 – Find a good source of power.
Dooh, the battery is in the trunk.
Ok let’s investigate what power I can find under the hood that has large gauge wires and is always on.
I noted in the fuse box I have an empty fuse location located on the heavy fuse buss bar. The open fused location is for ABS which I don’t have. The ABS connection is rated to 60 amps.
Ta da! Not only does it have the power I need but it is also in a convenient location. I will run with that.

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Step 2 - Mount an old Ford 12V starter solenoid as a “pre-solenoid” and attach a heavy gauge wire from the ABS fuse location.
Add a circuit breaker for extra safety. Then wire the other side of the “pre-solenoid” to the Ecotec starter solenoid.
At the same time remove the Miata ignition switch wire from the starter solenoid and insulate it.
Also add an extra heavy duty mil-spec ground strap.

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Step 3 – Prove that the “pre-solenoid” idea will work.
The guys on the Ecotecmiata Facebook page said the engine will not start because the ECU wants to see a cranking signal otherwise it detects a security issue. I was optimistic because the ECU was re-programmed to eliminate the need to recognize a key fob and it has a mild tune.
I turned on the ignition key and jumpered the pre-solenoid. The engine immediately cranked and fired up.
Success!

Step 4 – Figure out an interior push-button.
I looked at those “START” buttons that are out there but they were too complicated and did not handle the amps I wanted. I then started thinking about marine push-button switches. I found one that had a rubber boot over the push-button and could fit into the cigarette lighter hole with little effort.
I ordered and received the marine push-button switch. The marine push-button switch would have worked but it did not look good.
As I started thinking about other alternatives I thought it might be nice to add some anti-theft features by having a hidden momentary switch. (It will be our secret, right!)

I was playing with the old cigarette lighter I removed and thought why not turn it into a push-button?
It seemed feasible, I will run with the idea!

My cigarette lighter was slightly corroded because it was occasionally used so I decided to order a new one from Moss Miata. At the same time, I found a push-button switch on eBay that I thought would fit. Both arrived about the same time and I determined it could be done.
Both the cigarette push button (with the guts removed) and the switch push-button have spring action return. I think it will work well and have low risk to stick.
Using a Dremel bit I opened-up the rear of the cigarette housing until I could install the threaded switch shaft. I had to slip on the new colored ring first before I installed the switch. I adjusted the switch to have a slight gap and tightened it down.

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Step 6 - Add JB Weld to the threads and nuts of the switch so it does not come loose or change the adjustment gap.
In the picture below the switch threads inside the cigarette lighter are curing. Tomorrow I will flip it over and do the same to the outside threads and nut.

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Step 7 – Solder 14 awg wires to the switch, install, and wire up to the pre-solenoid. I will take power from that circuit breaker next to the pre-solenoid and add a sealed Delphi fuse holder in-line with a 30A fuse. I will get to that in the next few weeks and update everyone with the final results.

Other projects in the queue:
• Winkers
• Halo rings to be mounted into the Thunderbird tail-light lens
• Test fit the Garage Vary rear panel
• Paint the Garage Vary rear panel – Crystal white with black center bar
• Pull off the rear bumper to figure out the best way to install the Mustang facia insert.
• Try to get the old rear spoiler off the trunk lid.
• Ecotec cooling system upgrades – re-routing, independent fan system, Flyin Miata V8 radiator
• Install Flyin Miata V8 sway bar and support bracket to add clearance to the front engine pulley nut.
• Start working on the A-Spec Type II wing. Yes, absolutely it will have the aluminum visible.
• Prove out the Ecotec drivetrain – starter, cooling system, sway bar, etc
• Install the new one piece flywheel and 6-speed Miata transmission.
• Re-route the oil cooler and oil filter
• Work on front spoiler and side skirts
• Add heat shields all over. Brake lines, Air conditioning lines, Fuel lines, Clutch slave cylinder, etc
• Plus many, many, more!

As far as a push button start, what about the Zoom Engineering option? Completely PnP, no wire splicing.
https://www.cornsusa.com/product-pag...on-starter-pnp

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000

As far as a push button start, what about the Zoom Engineering option? Completely PnP, no wire splicing.
https://www.cornsusa.com/product-pag...on-starter-pnp

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I kinda like the stealth cigarette lighter push-button.
The red button would stand out too much on my otherwise stock dash.
But thanks for the idea.

I am now going a different route than using halo lights.
Halo lights generally need to be under clear lenses or located outside the lenses. So, I ordered a different set of 1960 Ford Thunderbird tail-light lenses with clear back-up light centers. They were available new with mounting gaskets.
Then I ordered some high intensity sealed LED trailer lights.
I tested the LED trailer lights with my boat battery while under the Thunderbird lenses. They look great!
This arrangement will simplify mounting, sealing, and wiring.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8f3154cd_b.jpg

This is how the lens and LED lights will be assembled.
The LED trailer lights fit on the back of the lens like they were made for each other.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...dccd65d5_b.jpg

Here is how the Thunderbird lens will look on the Garage Vary panel.
I will enlarge the Garage Vary light openings and have the lenses come in from the backside.
They will stop on the lens flange and have a lens gasket to seal.
The Thunderbird lens will end up almost an inch (25mm) lower than the picture.
I think the center clear lens will look good on the white car.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...28e0f011_b.jpg

I really like your idea with the t-bird lights!!!

+1, especially if recessed deeper like the description. I also like the C3 Corvette ones quite a lot.

Today I installed some stainless steel I.L. Motorsport “Roadster” door sills to eliminate the Miata logos and eliminate all the scuff marks.
They go well with the new floor mats too!

The Eunos conversion is almost complete.
I just need to paint and install the rear Garage vary panel that will have a “Eunos” emblem.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d46898a2_b.jpg