Can't believe I'm the first NB owner to post this thread! Lets see what y'all have bought/done to your NB in 2018!
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Can't believe I'm the first NB owner to post this thread! Lets see what y'all have bought/done to your NB in 2018!
Did this today....
OEM NB2 taillights
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4651/...1360a233_k.jpg
Both OEM tail lights with Oracal 8300 amber vinyl installed
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4651/...b08acbfc_k.jpg
More information/pictures can be found here:
http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....piration/page6
I had new tires installed and I finally got my MSM rear sway bar.
@kung fuel jesus: Steven, you alone would have 4-5 pages here if there had been such a thread and you had posted in it. :lol:
Lol, maybe. :)
I brought it out of the garage to drive it after a week. Washed it and then we got hit with rain. Car looked amazing in the parking lot.
A much needed set of coilover spanners, to take apart my not-yet-installed suspension. Going to give it a wash in an hour or two.
Drilled out a snapped swaybar mounting stud the PO left.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...704bdd3626.jpg
New bolt shown.
Chad, what was the reason for going to NB2 lights if you were putting the orange circles on? I thought most people went to the NB2 to get away from the orange?
@tsingson: Misfire is a NB2 (2001 to be specific) so they were on there already. If the NB2 taillights 'clear' area was actually clear instead of pinkish I probably could have left well enough alone. Also part of it is 'classic cars' influence and so many of the iconic cars I love just looked so good with amber/yellow turn signals. i.e.
Ferrari F40
http://ww2.autoscout24.es/reportaje/...82384/7406.jpg
McLaren F1
https://www.sportscarmarket.com/wp-c...en-f1-rear.jpg
Ferrari 330 P4
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4037/...f55ee9a1_o.jpg
Alfa Romeo GTA
https://images3.alphacoders.com/269/269677.jpg
Renault Alpine A110
http://www.forcegt.com/wp-content/up...ar-quarter.jpg
Don't get me wrong I realize they had amber/yellow sections because the incandescent bulbs were white/clear bulbs and most modern cars don't need colored plastic to achieve the amber/yellow lighting(many use red) and many look better w/o said colored lens. Just a personal preference in this case.
Ah. Didn't realize that it was an NB2. Always thought it was an NB1. I prefer the orange. Just wish that Mazda made mine the same orange. :shrug:
Re-re-finished Misfire's headlights...:rofl:
Here is how they looked from my previous attempt and stopping at 1500 and then using a polishing compound. (Turtle Wax, light/medium)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4773/...51e2bdd9_k.jpg
Finally after using the Turtle Wax polishing compound(light/medium).
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/788/3...e7c41be4_k.jpg
For more details check out Misfire's build thread:
http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....piration/page7
2018 has been a busy time for my roadster...
Picked up a Hard Dog Rollbar (and door bars.)
https://photos.smugmug.com/Mazda-Mia...04824-02-M.jpg
So I had to clean out my storage locker (been that way for 17 years)...
https://photos.smugmug.com/Mazda-Mia...85743-01-M.jpg
and turn it into a working garage...
https://photos.smugmug.com/Mazda-Mia...430027_o-M.jpg
Got the Rollbar and door bars installed and went out to meetup with some other roadsters.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Mazda-Mia...042018-2-L.jpg
Polished out the headlamps...and, upgraded the 3BL unit to a flasher with 16 LEDs.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Mazda-Mia...Finished-M.jpg
Love this car!
I got my car on it's initial track event. I am pleased how it performed.
Had 3 Junior High boys over today (one of them was mine) for Intro to Auto Shop. We covered all the basic stuff, fluids/air/electrical, Jacks and jack stands, change a tire, etc. Was a good day!
https://photos.smugmug.com/Mazda-Mia...10911-01-L.jpg
lots of new unobtanium parts ......
AWD cluster complete
- AWD needle caps
- AWD cluster cover black
- AWD thick gauge rings (they will directly go onto my Bluestar cluster :twisted: and the KGWorks rings will come on this one and go for sale...)
- AWD maruyama-B gauges
- cluster 125000 km for nb6c
https://i.imgur.com/tON5cfd.jpg
ROADKIDS gated shifter surround... quite rare i guess.. i will adapt my center console to fit this one :slayer:
https://i.imgur.com/cQga1og.jpg
And the 2 made of unobtanium .... the titanium ARC radiator panel for NB .... will replace directly the beatrush one i have ....
https://i.imgur.com/zc1jFLG.jpg
and the ARC radiator for NB with its ARC cap.... TADAAAAAAAAA (no leakage)
https://i.imgur.com/T8xRfvA.jpg?1
rhadamanthes: Paulo, not sure if you have seen Adam's anti-reflective glass but they are so much better than standard glass and cut down on all that intrusive glare that can blind you when that glorious sun hits the standard glass just right.:fp:
http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....647#post217647
Picked up a screw in one of my tires...luckily it was one purchased from Walmart WITH the Roadhazard replacement option...
The car came to me with 205/45-16 FALKEN ZIEX ZE950 all around, rear two tires were in great shape, front two were older and sidewalls were dry and checked, needed replaced soon...then one day I spotted a chunk missing out of one sidewall! ::YIKES:: With all I was doing to the car to bring it back online I could only replace the two bad tires so searched for the same tires, found a great deal on Walmart.com AND they would install them, so less down time.
So a call this morning to the local store proved futile, next called the National Customer Service number, got someone helpful on the phone who in turn had store's Manager come on the call, Mgr promptly ordered a replacement tire and assured me it would be in store tomorrow ready to do the R&R. Well played Walmart.
I am very pleased with these tires, I have pushed them hard and they are super grippy in all situations. They have not seen snow, but we have had a bunch of rain lately they still don't slide.
I'll start with yesterday. In anticipation of working on The Tick again, I cleaned up the garage and moved most of the replacement parts to a single location:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/4...d299c786_k.jpgMevotech Supreme Lower Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/900/3...a51330ca_k.jpgGood-Win Racing Extended Suspension Top Hats by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/4...10c56134_k.jpgStopTech Street Pads and Centric Rotors by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/4...e01c8969_k.jpgAC Delco Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/808/2...81b4a07c_k.jpgFender Fasteners by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/4...edbcce93_k.jpgeBay Dual-Core Aluminum Radiator by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/868/4...2844d760_k.jpgSide View of the radiator by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/4...08024df1_k.jpg20180408_145926 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/890/4...5c7c934d_k.jpgSuspension Bolts and Bumper Cover/Slide (Fender Clip) by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
All of this stuff with the exception of the radiator and brake parts fit in this old recycling bin. Lost count of how many boxes I cut up today!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/811/4...84387160_k.jpgAll This Stuff in Just One Box! by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
And now...
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/818/4...7f4b8499_k.jpgMuch Better! by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
I walked by it and considered paying money to have it tuned instead of fighting with learning to tune the idle on mspnp.... you’re making much better progress than I am!
Hope that wasn’t weeks of actual work ;)
I do body and paint for a living... I can understand how hard it is to get motivated to repair a car when you’re in the situation you have.
I've got a wife and two kids, a busy job, and a mind that can easily be psyched out of working on something as long as it's not stopping life. The Miata's spot in the garage couldn't fit either of our other cars, so as long as we can get the other car in the garage, it's causing no harm. Add in the fact that there're some things I'm doing for the first time (and am nervous about), plus lots of money to be spent (which I'm pretty uncomfortable with in general)...it just takes a while to get my mind convinced to get to work :lol:
I know money is a concern, but please consider sending those LBJs back.
I bought cheap LBJs for my 10ae to make the move from CA to NC. They lasted about 5k miles before one separated unexpectedly. I was making a u-turn to get on the freeway. Stock height, no HPDE/autox. It was my wife's DD and 1/2 the miles were from the coast-to-coast move (freeway), it was pretty scary to think what would have happened if it separated on the freeway at 65-70mph. I stick to Moog or other quality-known brands since.
I tried to look it up, but I cannot find the records. Look, I know I made the mistake of putting economy parts on a daily driver, but I was pretty angry with myself after that happened. I hate to think what might have happened. Age and wisdom, I just don't take shortcuts like that anymore. I know the Moog LBJs cost 2x what the Mevotechs cost, but when the ball separates from the cup, the wheel basically has no suspension attached to it except the upper BJ and the corner collapses.
I somewhat know what you are going thru, and when Rooster's motor went I had to do some serious thinking about where to find a motor, and how much it was gonna cost, plus where the money was going to come from. But am really glad you are putting your car back together. :bow:
Same. I replaced the questionable LBJs with Moog units and the manufacturing between the two different brands was night and day. Be aware that Moog uses a nylon locknut instead of a castellated nut, which didn't bother me, but I know some are apprehensive about it.
I'll have to have a look at my OEM ones when I pull them off to compare. The Mevotechs had zerk fittings, which could be nice, I guess.
I got a Simpson Hybrid S. It's a head an neck restraint. It's unique in that it is also tested and rated to work with OE 3 point seatbelts as well as my 6 point harness. It's a LOT of peace of mind when I'm riding in student vehicles that normally only have stock safety equipment. It's a big deal to me. :)
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That's a neat setup
I'd rock it on the street with helmet. :slayer:
FYI...I merged my thread into this one :)
I spent an hour or so messing with the idle settings on my mspnp. It seems like I have things idling well in open loop with the ac on and all the electrical load I can throw at it, but it still seems less than smooth with the ac off and idles about a hundred rpm lower than I’d like it to (about 750) without the extra load from the ac. I can’t for the life of me find an idle target setting in tunerstudio, so it looks like I have a lot of googling to do tomorrow while the rain washes the carvfor me
Everything but the top handful of bolts have been removed from the transmission. still trying to find the proper angle of attack to get the stupid thing apart. Now that things are progressing, I'm finding all the things I'd love to do, if I were to keep the thing.
Pulled off the door cards and shot some lube down the window runners as the windows were re-a-l-ly s-l-o-w and squeaky. Way better now!
Also, had some free time yesterday afternoon so I ran up to Redwood Road and carved it up for about 45 minutes. Mostly just me and a dood on a bike up there! Good times!
I need to get in behind my panels and tighten everything behind there. Getting some rattles in there.
How do you lube the tracks without taking off the plastic sheeting under the door panels?
What did you use to lube your runners?
Would you do that on the Miata?
I used Finish Line bike chain lube that I had on hand. Sprays on wet then sets up dry, resists dirt and water.
I took the first door card off, started to peel the plastic off and it was super messy black goo everywhere. I was not looking forward to tearing all the tracks out, so I looked down from the top and there was just a little dark spooge at the top of the rails but the guides were really squeaky so I figured they were mostly just dry so I cleaned off the spooge with a flat blade screwdriver and then shot some of the chain lube down each rail, cycled the window a couple times, shot a little more in and that was it, worked like a champ! Put the door card back on, did the other side the same. Very happy with the results! I will let you all know when it ceases to work well again.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Miata-Pro...92148-02-M.jpg
The front edge of the door glass seal is pretty large and expensive to replace. Look at how yours wraps around the a-pillar glass, and around the door. When it gets grabby, the glass pulls it out when trying to close, sometimes tearing it.
Grabby seals strain the regulator and motor. Replacing a window motor and cable is not a fun job.
My Plastidipped mirrors were looking pretty faded, so I freshened them up today with some new 'Dip and Glossifier.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/864/4...4a31b077_k.jpgIMG_20180424_165919361_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/867/4...44feff50_k.jpgIMG_20180424_180722947_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
Just a temporary measure. Eventually I'll replace them with RX-7 FD fender mirrors.
In preparation for installing the widebody kit, I took it down to a shop and had the paint polished. The shadow stripes (leftover from 4 years of the previous offset stripes being there) are almost completely gone. You really have to be looking for them to see them. Hopefully, they will continue to fade. The car looks better than I've ever seen it! Bright, shiny, smooth paint! I definitely need to spend some time touching up the numerous rock chips on the the front.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/823/4...0d43325d_k.jpgIMG_20180430_142902160_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/911/4...563a5bcb_k.jpgIMG_20180430_142911553_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/903/4...9bd89414_k.jpgIMG_20180430_142920771_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
I also received my VLeds V6 Triton switchback turn signals. Installation was quick and easy. These things are BRIGHT!!!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/910/4...342c5ec6_k.jpgIMG_20180430_160340453_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/966/4...721e37fd_k.jpgIMG_20180430_160357232_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/4...050f8e70_k.jpgIMG_20180430_160410954_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
Since I was already in the garage and working on the Miata, I decided to do a little project I've had planned for about a year.
I long ago dumped the spare tire in the trunk in favor of a can of Fix-a-Flat, a cell phone and a AAA card. It was a good way to loose some weight and gain some cargo space. (It was the original spare tire, so it was dried out and probably not safe to use anyway.) The only issue was the left over brackets for the tire and jack got in the way. So, a few minutes with a cutoff wheel and...
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/950/4...26ab6bda_k.jpgIMG_20180430_180228906_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
Next, I vacuumed, washed and dried the trunk. Then, I made good use of some sound deadener that was left over from when I recarpeted the cabin.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/970/4...c56f8959_k.jpgIMG_20180430_184441077_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
Reinstall the trim:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/971/4...4bcc9847_k.jpgIMG_20180430_185816515_HDR by Rex Keely, on Flickr
The last part of this project will be to cut some carpet to make a trunk liner, just to clean up the look. The thin metal floor of the trunk rings like a bell, so hopefully, this will help reduce noise a little.
I'm curious what difference that'll make.
With a hard top on, any little bit helps. My 2000 was so much quieter than the 2004, thanks to the PO's love for Dynamat
Thicker carpet and judiciously-placed insulation helped mine a lot. Lined hardtops are MUCH quieter than not. You can also plug the tunnels on either side of the rear bulkhead with cushions. Concerns about lining the trunk with a self-adhesive mat is that it will collect water. Perhaps a spray-in insulation would be better and still allow access to the drain plugs.
I picked up a new (to me) set of wheels last night...
https://photos.smugmug.com/Mazda-Mia...05404-01-L.jpg
and installed them this morning before going in to work!
https://photos.smugmug.com/Mazda-Mia...85758-01-L.jpg
MUCH improved!
Man, that's a good color. Love it. And the new-to-you wheels look great, too.
Thanks Martin! Yea, those other wheels just never looked right on there to me. New ones came with Bridgestone Potenza rubber so I need to get the feel of those now...guess I need to head up into the hills today!
Looks great; love those late 16" wheels! Then I may be partial to them; that's exactly the trim package of my car at the time I bought it as well!
Ordered 949Racing Hybrid engine mounts today. Also have Energy Suspension differential mounts and axle seals on the way, too. Not my first rodeo on the diff mounts.
My current engine mounts and bushings are toast. Road Atlanta is coming up, I need all the torques I can get.
Trying to get this GDMFCSSOB transmission out. IF there is a hidden bolt holding it on, it is not in a stock location. I can see that it is separated slightly at the top on both sides. I've tried rocking it, wiggling it, lifting it, drinking a beer and cursing at it... no dice.
also, I have no clue how the starter was installed with the motor in the car. it does not fit out through any hole in the wheel well area. I just wire-tied it out of the way on the subframe.
Also, KFJ, how can you tell the mounts are shot? The engine rock on acceleration?
Yup, engine movement and third gear difficulties under heavy load. Diff knocks on the subframe on/off throttle.
I don’t envy your job with that trans. That’s why I prefer to pull the motor with the trans attached when possible. It seems like extra work/expense but makes doing a clutch easier and less chance to mess up.
Attachment 18495
Been messing with the megasquirt a bit more, was able to actually ENJOY driving the car all day Saturday to a car show with some friends in Hershey Pa at the AACA museum
Car's looking good. Super jealous!
Those headlights look awesome to me.
Love that headlight film! Side markers need the same.
huh...I wonder if that's the sound I'm hearing with any shift in acceleration. But it also happens on braking. I thought it was the alignment bolts coming loose (they don't anymore). And now I think it's the RUCA bushing - since it's slipped such that the bushing lip that's supposed to be between the RUCA and frame, isn't there any more. But maybe it's...both? Any recommendation on how to check if the diff mounts are shot?
At this point, it's deductive reasoning. Our cars are 19 years old, mine started developing the knock on the right, now the left. If it is the RUCA, you should be able to replicate it or see signs of contact on the subframe or knuckel. Maybe put the rear in the air on stands and see if unloading the suspension does anything. I put mine up, tried to replicate the noise by spinning the wheels back and forth by hand, nada. Additionally, some research shows the diff mounts are likely the culprit. If it isn't I will have at least stabilized the PPF assembly and can pinpoint form there.
I suspect the diff lash, driveshaft, and axle, too.
I received a rather large box yesterday:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/909/2...b9c9d705_k.jpg
The next few days will be filled up with drilling and cutting and bolting...
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/908/4...6ffb7a17_k.jpg
that was a big box indeed !!!
Are you going to keep it white ?
Will agree on complete colour changes...unless they are really complete (engine bay, interior etc) in which case they cost more than double.
Front bumper and left side installed:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/960/4...c08c2b93_k.jpg
Actually looks like it fits better than most out of the box!
Transmission out, finally. What a filthy lady...
I added red LEDs to my new clear rear reflectors. The pics make the color look washed out, but they are very bright and very red in person.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/970/4...faee23f7_k.jpg
Attachment 18563 gonna need some degreaser. Tons
That's some mess!
EZ Off and a hose. Tape off the input shaft with plastic, don't let the EZ Off sit on there too long.
I did that to mine:
Attachment 18565
Attachment 18566
Wow. Wondering what the equivalent cleaner would be for us.
You could use a high alkaline wheel cleaner or oven degreaser.
Wear gloves and goggles.
Worked great on my oil pan, too.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...25146b41d3.jpg
Oven cleaner supposedly works great, too. Is this from a leaking rear main seal, or is it all clutch detritis?
A lot of that is clutch debris, the concerning part is the oily sheen in there. Yeah, I think the rear main seal is weeping or leaking.
Can't believe I never realized how awesome a scotch brite pad is for "cleaning" your intake manifold and valve cover. Just started...will update when "good enough." :D. Engine bay cleaning is so therapeutic. :8):
Bored, so I drove up to Robbinsville. Eating lunch, right now, at Lynn’s Place. Going to do some driving. HMU.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6018065fb2.jpg
Left around 9:30a, got home about 6p. The scattered showers were heavy at times, which I think lightened traffic. I had pretty clear roads, manageable traffic.
I LOVE these Continental ExtremeContact Sports! So quiet, grippy, and great in the rain. Awesome value, for sure.
Drove up via GA 17 to Hwy 64 to US129. They paved 129 near Andrews and its buttah smooooth! They are installing new buttresses on 129 on the way into Robbinsville, so it’s partially one lane with a stop light to direct opposing traffic.
Lovely scenery, saw a group of exotic cars on a rally, they seemed more interested in posing for pics on the Dragon than driving it, I shot them some heel-toe revs as I approached to assert my dominance in the hair dresser’s car. They were shocked, I know it. ;)
I followed a pair of Mustang Cobra 350s out of the Fontana, the roads were wet and they let me pass.
I did Hwy 28, the Dragon, the drive past the Tapoco (the exotics were staying there apparently), and 129. I took 19 back over the border into GA and took Blood Mountain. I stopped at the top to look over the valley and watch the hikers make their way through the Appalachian Trail. All in all a very nice day! Pictures are chronological...
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Looks like a great drive! Really great pics, Steven! :bow:
Weird not seeing that Mariner, Steve...:lol:
Yeah. I had to think while I was there if I had driven this NB out there. It was the first time. :)
I thought about stopping at one of the killboy tents, supposedly this car was previously owned by one of their photographers. I was going to see if I could confirm it and maybe get more history on the car.
I just decided not to bother them while they were working and just enjoy the drive.
Beautiful photos, Steven, thanks for sharing!
I changed out the oil in my trans today for Redline...Smoother shifts all around!
Ordered a 23mm so I can do the diff next.
Great pictures indeed. Makes me want to take a far away drive again. Been meaning to go to Kings canyon area in the Miata one of these days.
That’s a great drive there too. [emoji4]
Juxtaposed, the Appalachians keep me on my toes more. The roads are tighter, sharper turns, more hazards from water, weather, and wildlife. The fauna is so thick, I need to keep my eyes up farther because it conceals so much. I think the roads are in better shape than those out west, maybe because they are more vital to the people who live there?
I like all the water in the Appalachians, too. Just more relaxing to me. The forests are so thick they really are subtropical rain forests. [emoji4]
Pics from Saturday's day trip:
Attachment 18580
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Steven, are those OEM fog lights behind the openings?
I wrapped the throttle body elbow and IAT Sensor in some of that gold heat reflective take to try to alleviate some issues with IAT sensor heat soak
I added clear repeaters to my fenders:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...37474c04_k.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...39f58765_k.jpg
Great pics, Steven! What size wheels are those?
It’s just not a priority. I’m not a huge fan of auxiliary lighting, like separate fog/driving lights anymore. The stock fogs are really pretty useless on the NB1, so I’d rather use the existing holes for something functional.
I read fog lights are rare on non-10ae ‘99s, so I assume these were dealer added or POE accessories. Maybe a previous owner added them.
Finally got everything I need to install the rear main seal... Except for the install tool... Hopefully that gets delivered this week. Need to source a timing belt kit, too.
Trying to remember if a pvc cap will work on the RSM, but I think the last two I've done, just did it by hand, slowly, and eyeballed it.
Rock auto had a nice Gates TB kit, IIRC when I did mine this year. I was impressed with the waterpump too, nice casting and machining.
After the mess that was James' RMS install / re-install, I'm gun-shy on the thing. Hopefully. the leak is with the round seal, and not the lower gasket. not gonna drop the motor, after all this mess.
Found a cnc'ed install tool for cheap, so I'll just use that, and hold on to it/resell.
I completely understand that.
I find it’s kind of rare for those saddle seals between the pan and block to leak.
With limited space, like the engine still in the car, I would want to use a seating tool as well. Good luck!
R/R’d the diff bushings and axle seals. Removed the diff after work solo and got it back in. Stopped when the bugs started up for the evening. Just have to reinstall the exhaust, brakes, driveshaft, ladder brace. Maybe an hour of work I’ll do tomorrow.
I love Southern cars like these. Everything comes apart so nice! These were the easiest OE bushings I have ever removed. 2 hits each side - BOOM! Done! [emoji4]
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I know, it's lovely to crawl under a car without fear of snapping bolts, or getting tetanus.
Just bought a preassembled and de-powered NB steering rack. Saves me having to tear mine apart and get the pinion welded.
Neat, buy why for a daily? Genuinely curious.
Hybrid mounts installed. Did a friend’s NA8, too. Engine hoist saved us a ton of time, even with the tight fit his RB header gave us. Each car about 2 hours, no hurry.
Still looking for that install tool to arrive... bugger-all, I was hoping to button her up this weekend.
Seal is in! Lightweight flywheel is on! Only had an hour to fiddle around today. Been trying to clean up the engine bay and underside while everything is removed. Degreaser everywhere, except where it does not belong. Hopefully, I'll be able to drive it Thursday... This weekend at the latest.
Went ahead and ordered the Gates timing belt kit from Treasure Coast. Rock Auto was back-ordered on the kit. Seemed to be a thorough kit at a good price.
The stiffer engine and diff mounts introduced more NVH, especially in the doors and hood.
Ordered, received, and installed GarageStar door bushings today. Door vibrations are gone. I was skeptical.
I placed a few squares of leftover insulation from my carpet install under the hood, and the resolved that issue, too.
Upgraded my headlights to: OSRAM - Night Breaker.
Much improved!
The more I look at this car, the more I want to replace parts and keep it. Motor mounts, bushing refresh, shifter rebuild, and on and on and on.
Was able to get the transmission in. If it ever needs to come back out, and I do keep it, I'm taking out the entire power plant. Luckily my jack came it handy, and several F-bombs later, it dropped into place. By far the most "difficult" job was that damn clutch pigtail. getting those lines properly threaded was a pain in the moobs. Starter and Ex Mani are back on. not confident that I can tighten the egr pipe bolt without removing the heater core hoses, which I dread.
From here, everything should drop into place. Exhaust/ppf/ interior bits. I have not received an update on the timing kit, so I may get to drive the thing this weekend, instead of working on it.
The only issue with keeping it, is convincing the wife to let me double the garage space... and that means losing a chunk of back yard, or buying the house beside ours. I can almost hear the "oh HELL NAW" from here.
On a slightly more serious note, I have been thinking about an aluminum carport for the car/truck, so that the newer cars can stay indoors. The 4 car shuffle can be annoying, especially when 2 are not running. Hopefully when the MX is done, I'll be able to maneuver it out of the garage. The C10 died (starter died and it looks like the fuel system has been leaking heavily). I need a month off of work, and a couple grand to get this stuff sorted out.
Yeah...the advantage I've got is that the Miata's garage spot is too small for either of the other two cars to fit in. It's paid off, so all it's costing me is money for parts and time right now.
I found a box full of sunshine on the porch yesterday. guess the car is gonna stay in the air for a bit longer. Can't argue with the quality or speed of shipment from Treasure Coast. I wish they sent out a shipping update, but it's not a big deal.
Dash cam arrived. Going to hardwire the power source to the car and install it. Too many crazy happenings recently, plus I can use it to record my sessions.
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I just installed a different model ROAV dash camera in my 1984 Audi four weeks ago. I think the model is called C2. My son got it for my birthday back in February.
My son helped me select the best memory card so I can run good resolution while still storing a lot of data. It is mounted directly to the front windshield with adhesive tape. I mounted it near the rear view mirror. It is hard to notice which is good.
My weekly commute of 520+ miles has been crazy between construction, accidents, bad roads, and people playing with their devices.
I was lucky my Pioneer audio system has two USB outlets. I used the one in the back for the dash cam and the one in the front for my iPhone. So both USB ports gets activated when the car starts so I do not forget to plug or unplug them. The dash cam does come on using it's internal battery for a few minutes if it senses some movement when parked.
I figure it will be good for legal protection in the event of an accident and with all the craziness it might capture a good Youtube video in the future!
Eager to read your feedback; please provide pics if possible. Have been contemplating one since a quite long time now.
Here is something I missed during parts removal... the damn stud pulled out of the header. Stud still has lower threads, but barely. they are too smashed to thread into the header. What's my best course of action? Retap and thread a new stud or add a bolt/nut/washer that fits?
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Those studs...ugh.
I had a similar issue on my 10ae. I replaced the studs with bolts. IIRC, I drilled out the holes on one side, used the threads on the other flange to run the bolts into.
*edit* looks like I used bolts and nuts. I remember I FUBAR'd the studs and had to remove them, I think two seized and I drilled them out. The bolts threaded into one side, I might have used nuts to prevent a similar situation OR it was that the studs from a '99-00 had a different thread/pitch than an '01+.
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Figured this would be the best COA. Guess another hardware store trip is in order. Also, how vital is replacing the copper-ish seal that fits inside the header at that junction? Is it a "replace every time" seal, a=or reusable? Also, that transmission bracket in the area is vile, and not going back on the car. The long bolt which held the exhaust to the bracket broke off a year or 2 ago, and I haven't seen any issue.
I have reused the metal exhaust gaskets many, many times. It's the soft, fibrous gaskets that are 1-time use.
That bracket that holds the pipe to the trans...I eliminate it when the opportunity presents itself, it's never been an issue.
Just like that intake mani bracket. Over-engineering...
That flimsy starter support bracket on the earlier cars. Just one more thing to work around on that side of the car, like the engine mount. The NBs don’t have it.
Swapping out the passenger side engine mounts on my car and a friend’s NA. His car took an extra 20-30 minutes because of that damn bracket. Mine took 20-30 minutes total.
After 15 years of heavy use, my 1.5T aluminum floor jack gave out on Sunday. Fortunately, I was able to take advantage of some Father's Day extended sales and buy a new one: a 3T, low-profile, steel unit. $99 + free shipping. It arrived a day earlier than forecast. She's pretty stout and has a higher lift range. So long, old pal, you served me well. :)
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Your aluminum jack looks just like the one I just bought last month. I hope I can look forward to 15 years of service from mine, too!
I need something with a taller lift.
I need a lift
New shoes installed... mostly.
I got all 16 of the chopped wheel studs out and replaced them with original length studs. The PO had cut them REALLY short! I installed the 25mm spacers and wheels up front, and I'm very happy with the result. In the rear, I think the 32mm spacers are just a tad too narrow.It doesn't look bad, just not quite what I want. I think I need about another 1/4 inch for them to look just right. I already have some 38mm spacers on the way that should be here by Friday.
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I went from the OEM 16" to 15" wheels with this mod. They definitely don't fill the wheel wells as nicely. With all the fender gap, it's obvious that the next major mod I need t plan is a set of coilovers.
I was going to install my new stripes, but the shop messed up my order. Instead of cutting out the white area between the red and black stripes, they left white in that location. I test installed a short piece of the strip, but the white of the vinyl is just way too different from the white paint on the car. I'll have to wait for the shop to make me another set of stripes. The pics give an idea of how its going to look, though.
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Bryan, that one goes nearly 20".
Finally got my tune sorted well enough on the ms3pro that I’m comfortable driving without the laptop in the car! Steady idle, no stalling, safe in boost (on factory wastegate, no boost controller yet). Now I just have to swap the factory ecu back in for emissions this weekend
Looking in the engine bay, I have some work to do with some of the corroded old bracketry for random stuff. I really need to clean things up in there to really be satisfied. The more I drive and look at the car, the more stuff I find I need to take care of (it’s super nice after only 43k miles, I’m just a picky crazy person)
Work is super slow and I work on commission, so it’ll be a while before I can spend any more real money on the car, so I figure I’ll do my best to just enjoy it and tidy things up a bit that I neglected while I was angry at the megasquirt
Lol! Yeah. It’s 80#, which made me laugh after I placed the order...free shipping. My UPS driver hates me for sure. :)
Got the 38mm spacers and rear wheels installed tonight. Backed her out into the drive for a quick wash up then a short drive.
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I can really tell the difference in ride quality with the 15" wheels and thicker rubber. Much smoother ride.
Almost a year later... She runs.
I was so excited, I took out the seats, scrubbed the interior, AND drove it to work this morning. I forgot how soft to drive this car is. compared to the Subi, the clutch is pure butter. The lightweight flywheel is not as finicky as it felt on the NA (albeit this one is 2# heavier, iirc). This week, I'll probably tackle the timing belt. I think my final plans are to keep this, and sell the BMW. Car payments suck, especially
Guess I'll drive it again in 2019...
Don't feel bad. I'm hoping to get the work done to put the car on the road next week.
Sucks having your Miata out of commission for a while. It's necessary for maintenance/upgrades, but painful when there's a perfect driving day and your Miata is up on stands in the garage.
Exactly. Since hitting 40, getting remarried, etc, car-work time has become a rare, valuable resource.
50% through the timing belt job. Only small issue was one of the torx bolts on the intake cam bolt cover stripped beyond hope, so that had to be extracted. Gotta look up the pn and see how fast I can get a replacement.
Also, during the front main seal install the crank bolt rotated. The cams are locked with the wrench/clamp method. Is this going to be an issue? The Woodruff key slot was at the 12:00 position when I started. It's now around 5:00 position.
You will need to re-align the timing mark on the crank
Oh man! I found the driveline clunk I have been chasing for a while!
Bought a 32mm socket to check the torque spec on the rear axle nuts. I suspected the left one may have been not torqued to spec. It had loosened a little more than one full turn. When the axle was replaced by the PO, the stake nut wasn’t staked enough and it worked loose.
Torqued to spec, put in a deeper stake, clunk gone!!!
I wish I had done this sooner, I would have driven Road Atlanta last week. :(
I also insulated the doors and door cards. Noticeably quieter.
How'd you do the insulation?
Laid a ~12x 6” piece on the outer skin (inside the door, starting at the top of the crash/intrusion bar. 2-3 small pieces (3x4”) on the inner skin, then much of the reverse side of the interior door panels, on the moulded fiberboard surfaces.
:)
Is that self adhesive, or did you go with Super 77 or similar?
Ok, everything done on the car, up to the point of putting that cover plate on the intake cam. I should have the replacement bolt in hand tomorrow.
Tonight, I'll start swapping all of the top crap from the original valve cover to the new one. I need to find a new filter for the AutoEXE intake, or determine if it's the serviceable K&N one.
Also, I noticed that the passenger rear caliper is leaking... again... this will be the third time it's been replaced in 3 years. What the French, toast?
RE: caliper, I'd be suspicious of the fittings on the car. Where did they leak from previously?
As for the filter, most aftermarket manufacturers have a page for universal fitment. Maybe try a dry one?
https://www.aemintakes.com/search/univcone.aspx
Yeah, I think I need to get Mrs Driver to pump the brakes to see if that exacerbates things. Over the stored period (since November) the level in the reservoir went from max to "just above" minimum. definitely a slow drip when not moving.
Thanks for that link on the AEM. I can measure it up tonight. What is the popular opinion on the wet-type filters? I've never had issue with them previously, but I'm also cautious to never over-fill it and to make sure it's fully dry before installing on the car. I've read anecdotes about the oil being sucked in to the intake, or shortening the life of the MAF.
I have had the oil foul the MAF in two cars, one was a Miata. I think a lot of it has to do with the proximity of the oiled cone to the MAF and the path of the air. I mentioned the dry ones just because I know the AutoEXE unit is really close to the MAF.
I know K&N has a loooooong list of shapes and sizes if you choose to go that route.
FWIW, I’m glad to see you’re keeping the Miata. I hate car payments too. [emoji14]
The glutton for punishment that I am started swapping over parts from the original valve cover to the new white powder coated one. What was I thinking, this thing will never stay clean! At least it'll look pretty once.
Heading out to pick up the replacement torx bolt in a minute, and *hopefully* there's less than an hour of timing belt work left. The radiator is going to need replacing at some point, but it doesn't look "breakable brown" yet.
Went from this...
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...to this...
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...thanks to these...
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....more information here:
http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....piration/page8
As long as you didn't gas yourself, that's a win!
This was the least amount of fuel I've spilled doing this job, and I still needed a bit of time afterward to come down from the fumes. :)
I put a car back on the road (for now)
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Hoping the radiator gets here on Thursday, since I'm off. As long as all the parts went back together well, the only thing left to look at is that rear caliper, and refreshing the diff oil. Everything else should be well maintained. I may look into grabbing a set of control arms, to swap in new bushings (that I've had in a box for 2 years) and possibly a suspension refresh.
Gave it a proper interior clean (yesterday); have been working my ass off again so I had neglected it.
I was able to get the Mishimoto radiator installed yesterday. Checked the drain threads, and corner welds (the common issue spots) and everything looks well-made. Got the air filter taken care of before I ran out of allotted time. Hopefully, I'll be able to drop in some coolant and take a look at the brake caliper tonight.
I found a roll of thicc weather strip foam from another project. I used it to seal the huge gaps between the fan frame and the rad. Not sure that it will last, or help, for that matter, but in theory boxing them up is a decent idea.
Wash & wax. Polish coat tomorrow.
White cars are sooooo much easier.
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They hide imperfections very well indeed; way better than dark colours. Speaking of, got delivery of a few clay bars (different grades) plus a cquartz ceramic coating kit; hope to be sealing my paint job soon and get done with exterior for now
Received some Revlimiter gauges....
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...for more pictures see Misfire's build thread, post #128:
http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....d=1#post222069
I installed a gas strut trunk lift kit from Clark and Clark. I'm pretty sure it would lift just about any spoiler. I'm planning on adding the Carbonmiata Monster Spoiler soon, so I figure I'll need some extra lifting power. If you really need EXTRA lifting power, the same company makes a kit that adds a second gas strut on the right side of the trunk.
Installation was easy and took about 10 mins.
Pros:
More lifting power than the OEM torsion bar
Lifts the trunk lid all the way open when you hit the button on the remote
Cons:
Limits the trunk lid from opening as much as the oem set up
Finally running, after a few crappy hiccups. Hopefully the next time I need to get under the car like that is for modification and not maintenance.
And the Revlimiter Fighter gauges are installed!
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Post #132 for more pics: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....piration/page9
New go fast stripes!
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And new rear badging.
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Gave her a wash and went for a drive in the Berkeley Hills.
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First good detail since painted and took her up to a cars and coffee meet the next day.
lovely!
@ItsAllRigged: Wait, wait, wait. You can't lurk for nearly 4 years with only 21 post and just give us a exterior pic and no motor pic when you have a v8 under the hood, bad form Jack! I removed my thanks for the above post until you give us some engine bay pics. :teehee: I'd also very much appreciate a build thread. :popcorn:
A couple of small things today: I got tired if the worn finish on my wiper, so I shot it with some black paint. I also replaced the 18' blade with a new 22" blade.
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Really like how it looks with no badge. Been thinking about that myself...
Youre absolutely correct, how rude of me! :P Heres the build thread but its stops a bit short of completion. https://www.v8miata.net/general-moto...ls-build-1903/
Heres some pics to quiet the raucous crowd in here :lol:
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You just keep the tub that clean or has it been resprayed?
Dang, baller. Then again, I realized that NB2 bumper is a refit...
:bow: Yep, found an 04 Speed parted out and stole the front/rear bumpers off it.
Nice craftsmanship and execution on your build. What seat is that? It looks different than the one in your build thread on the other forum.
Thanks KFJ. I really enjoyed the ground up, nut and bolt restoration of this build.
I recently swapped out the InfinitFab seats with these Corbeau LE-Pros. Found them very lightly used with custom stitching that matched the body paint color almost perfectly.
Those look $$$$.
1 year anniversary of driving my roadster this week and turned over 10K miles!
10k miles on a 15 year old car?!
Make that 10K that I put on it since I pulled it out of the bushes one year ago. Sorry if I didn't say that right. :whistling:
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Not my NB, but I took my friend’s NB1 with NB2 VVT engine swap, MS3 ECU and full exhaust for a quick drive.
What a torquey engine. The car just kept going, even in 4th.
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Knees on the dash :lol: How tall are you?
I refuse. Knees under the wheel or GTFO :lol:
Yeah, I DON’T FIT IN NBs. With their bulky door cards and massive center console, my knees are squeezed between the steering wheel and said parts.
I’m 1.91 or about 6’3 if I did it correctly
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