[NA8] Intermittent no crank issue

For the first time ever, my Miata didn't start. I could hear the relays click, but the starter wouldn't try to to crank the car or do anything to show that it was working. At first, I thought it might just be the starter slowly dying, so I hit the starter with a hammer and chisel. That didn't work. After trying to turn the car over many times for about 5 minutes straight, it started right up. The only reason I kept trying was because this thread seemed to outline a similar issue, and his would start up at in the same way as mine. Any recommendations on where to go from here? Do I need to buy a new starter and solenoid?

Thank you in advance for any help.

Headcase0

I had a random no-start problem. I’d hear a click, but it wouldn’t turn over. Finally noticed that one of my battery connections was loose. Fixing that solved my problem.

Checked both terminals and they're fine. The voltage on the constant power to ground for the radio is good, so voltage isn't an issue.

how old is your battery? my car did the same thing yours did for a year. sometimes i had to keep clicking the key 10x to start the car. Once i replaced the battery, car starts first try every time.

Measure the voltage at the starter. Given the age of the car, it wouldn’t be surprising if the starter was fading. Not a fun job, but not the worst either.

Update: I replaced the starter only to discover that was not the issue. After diagnosing some other conditions with the car off, but key in the on position, I determined the issue to be one of the main power wires that goes to the ignition switch. The method of testing included checking if the wipers worked, hvac worked, or power windows worked. Sure enough, after removing the connector, I found this mess:

https://i.imgur.com/boCPfA7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4YrtYZi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zIZRJ93.jpg

As you can see, the connector melted itself. The pin damaged pin controls all of those systems I listed above (HVAC, Power windows, starter solenoid, and wipers. It also controls the power antenna main power and cluster lighting (not the warning lights)). The likely cause is just the increase in the connectors resistance overtime, causing increased current draw and heat. The part numbers to replace each of the bad components are D001-66-151A for the female connector (ignition switch) and a generic 6 pole connector that can be found here. You'll just want to use the male connector from the amazon link. I will include a picture of the add and its description below in case the link goes down

https://i.imgur.com/dF6BGsz.png

6 Pin latching / locking type 6.3mm - .250 series connector with terminals. This connector is commonly used for voltage regulator and rectifier connections on many vintage Japanese motorcycles. The This is a great kit if you have original plastic connectors that are falling apart and/or corroded terminals, replace everything to make a solid connection!

The terminals fit (.8 - 2 mm) 14-18 AWG wire.


Kit Includes:
Male and Female plastic connector - (Female connector is the Flange Type)
6 Male locking spade terminals
6 Female locking spade terminals
There is a special crimping tool that's necessary for proper installation, you can use pliers but it isn't recommended. We have the crimping tool available separately. We also carry a 3, 4 and 8 pin version of this kit.

This is the same type connector that's used on the Rick's 10-100 regulator / rectifier unit, and many other reg/rec units.


Replaces the stock Rectifier connection on Honda SOHC motorcycles:
CB350F - 1972-1974
CB400F Super Sport - 1975-1977
CB500K - 1972-1973
CB550F Super Sport - 1975-1977
CB550K - 1974-1978
CB750A Hondamatic - 1976-1978
CB750F Super Sport - 1975-1978
CB750K - 1969-1978




I will make an offcial write-up later when I get the parts and install them. Thank you for all the help and suggestions!

Nice catch & documentation! Good job!