Suzuki Cappuccino (Nopro) washer bottle install for NA (comprehensive)

Background:The purpose of this thread is to demonstrate the installation of a Suzuki Cappuccino washer fluid bottle into a Miata wiper cowl space, specifically a first-generation (NA) Miata for the purpose of this thread. For installation in a second-generation Miata (NB), please see the specific thread for that.

The Nopro name is most often passed around forums because it is a Japanese company that sells the washer bottle as a kit for right-hand-drive Miatas and has become popular for it. The bottle is actually an OEM Suzuki part for its Cappuccino roadster.

It can be installed in any Miata either for looks, i.e. cleaning up the look of the engine bay and also out of necessity due to there not being room for a washer bottle after installing forced induction and other parts. This thread details the installation into a 1990 Miata which can be the most challenging because of the limited space compared to other Miatas.

Additionally, a hole will have to be drilled into the firewall whereas this step isn't necessary in other Miatas.
This is the way I chose to do this along with the hardware I used. Keep in mind, somebody else might choose different hardware such as Allen bolts instead of plain, for instance, but the challenges remain the same. This install is more comprehensive than others I've done because of the many questions about specific hardware and methods I used.

Let's get started:
Since this NA's space is very tight, I had to consider a few different things before installing the bottle:

1. The first is that the fill cap will interfere with the closed hood unless I mount the bottle precisely so that it goes into this factory hood indentation. That's how close the clearance is. 2. Next the wiper-motor rod moves up and down during operation so the bottle must be close enough to the firewall in order to clear the downward movement of the rod.

3. The cowl floor of this model protrudes like a shelf close to where to bottle needs to be. 4. Last, unlike other Miatas, this one does not feature a factory hole in the spot used to mount the right side of the bottle so one will have to be drilled precisely.

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...entifyarea.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...sedsection.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...nthismodel.jpg


Okay, those things considered, it's time to prepare everything for installation. Lay out the hardware that's going be used so there's no confusion later.

Application note: A new Suzuki bottle comes with a new grommet for the pump to seal with. Used bottles may have a brittle or cracked grommet or missing it altogether.

Preparing the hardware:
Here's a look at the bottle and hardware. A very thorough job will require some wiring loom, zip ties and perhaps some new washer fluid hose but those are not completely necessary. I got a package of L brackets from Ace Hardware because I will need at least one for this job, but, you can fabricate one out of bar stock instead.

The first picture shows everything but note the bottle does not come with a pump, of course. Don't get fixated on the nuts and bolts in the pictures. I bought a lot of different ones to experiment with and a detailed list of parts will be presented later.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/.../4Wholekit.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/.../5Basickit.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/.../6Hardware.jpg



Preparing the Miata:
If you haven't already done so, remove the Miata washer fluid bottle by unplugging the pump's electrical connection and detaching the bottle from its brackets. Depending on whether the Miata is equipped with antilock brakes, the stock bottle could be on either side of the engine bay. This one was in the passenger side.

Cut the electrical plug from the pump's wiring and set aside, then reroute the wiring to the inside of the wiper cowl and over to the driver side. Now look at the underside of the hood. The washer-nozzle connections will have to be oriented the opposite direction that how they are now. Additionally, the plastic "Y" and "L" hose fittings will have to be swapped to the other side of the hood. Don't worry, there are already holes waiting for them.

Applicaton note: Be careful detaching the hose fittings from the hood. They're butterfly wings that expand out once they're pushed into the hole. Use a tiny nail or fine-point object to pry out the wings. They become brittle with age but equivalents can be found at any auto parts store if you break one. You will have to cut the washer pump plug from off the wiring. Make sure to leave yourself enough wire to strip and reattach later!

Now carefully pry out the stock washer pump and install it into the Suzuki bottle after lubricating the grommet first. Push it in until it clip into place. Yes, the Miata pump is an absolutely perfect fit for the Suzuki bottle. It even mounts better than before with each side holding the pump snuggly.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...zukibottle.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...orgoodseal.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...itinfirmly.jpg

Now to mount the bottle:
First mount the left or pump side of the bottle. This is logical because there is already a factory bolt in the location I need and also because the bottle will have to be rocked side by side to get it exactly where it needs to be on the right or fill side. I'll start by getting the hardware ready and here it is.

One nice M6x1 (6mm bolt by 15mm in length) flanged bolt, a regular M6 bolt (20mm in length), two 6mm thick, nylon spacers, two 6mm nuts, a washer and the bracket I'm going to make. This will all make sense shortly, unlike why there's an American ruler next to metric bolts.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...dehardware.jpg

I used a flange bolt because it looks good and I won't need a washer later. These are also referred to as automotive bolts and it looks just like the stock Miata bolt you're going to remove.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...estockbolt.jpg

The two nylon spacers should come out to 6mm thick when put together. You can always use one longer one and cut it down.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...rstogether.jpg

I'm also using locking nuts with nylon inserts in them. They work very well and eliminate the need for a washer in this application.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...yloninsert.jpg

What about that bracket?
Well, I sure could have used a flat one or even some bar stock but I had to get a package and just modify one flat. I also flattened a second one for an NB install but this job will only use one.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...sflattened.jpg

Now I have to drill a hole lower than the original,
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...fornewhold.jpg

then get rid of the excess,
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...moffexcess.jpg

and finally round off the edges.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...gesrounded.jpg

Okay, all done and ready to use. Now remember, I would normally use some bar stock but this will do. It's the same process with the added stop of just flattening out the L bracket this time. The whole process is very fast so don't let all this deter you.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...racketdone.jpg

Mounting the pump side of the bottle:
With the parts ready, assemble them on the bottle so that they look like this. Basically, you're going to put the longer bolt, a nut, washer, both nylon spacers and the bracket together on the bottle before putting it inside the cowl. Tighten the nut and bolt but not excessively. You're going to need a little movement later.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...onpumpside.jpg

Now, look at the engine side of the firewall and locate a bolt in the area you're going to put the bottle. By good luck, it's location and the Suzuki were made for each other.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...ttoreplace.jpg

This is how it looks from the inside of the wiper cowl, in the right place but not long enough.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...ewfromcowl.jpg

Replace bolt with the new M6x1 (15mm long) flanged bolt and notice how it protrudes longer into the cowl.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...tinstalled.jpg

Note: Remember, now that you got those cool, nylon-locking nuts, you won't need a lock washer here. This is where you're going to use one.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...tintoplace.jpg


Back to the install. Now place the bottle in the cowl and using one of the nuts (with nylon lock insert), attach the bottle's bracket to the new bolt you just put in so it looks like this.

Application note: Do not tighten the upper nut yet. You're going to be lifting, lowering and scooting the bottle around to achieve the perfect position to attach the fill side. You'll be able to tighten it later.
Viewed from the driver side:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...stall-NA76.jpg

Viewed from the passenger side:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...sengerside.jpg

A close up view of the installed hardware:
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...edhardware.jpg

Now, looking at the photos, it appears like two nylon spacers is too much but it's really an illusion. That thickness is necessary in order to insert a wrench from above later and lock down the nut. Actually, there's barely enough room to squeeze the wrench in.

Now it's time to attach the fill side:

Application note: Connect the hose to the pump before you bolt down the fill side!

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...Inserthose.jpg

Unlike the pump side of the bottle, the fill side will require very careful placement because not only does the cap have to line up with the indentation on the hood, the bottle will have to lowered into the cowl as deep as it will go. Add to that, you'll have one chance to drill the hole perfectly the first time and you'll realize that this step is going to require some attention to multiple factors at once.

As before, lay out the parts you're going to use here. On this side, I'm going to use a flanged bolt like before but this one is 45mm long. I'm also going to use a couple more nylon spacers that together measure about 32mm in length, the last washer and finally, an acorn nut for asthetic purpose.

It just looks better than having ugly threads sticking out of the nut. On this side, the nut and bolt you choose do not have to be M6 since you're drilling your own hole but I chose an M6 flanged bolt to stay consistent with the look of the bolt I used on the pump side.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...dehardware.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...gbolt-45mm.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...sabout30mm.jpg

First thing's first. Place a rag into the inside of the cowl by the fender to block anything falling down the drain hole. You'll thank me later each time you fumble a nut or washer down there, and trust me, you will.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...blockdrain.jpg

Now the bottle is attached on the pump end, align the cap with the hood indentation. You'll have to scoot the bottle left and right to do this. Luckily, you didn't over tighten the bolts on the pump side so you can, with a little effort, move the bottle into position and it'll stay there.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...ndentation.jpg


Now it's time to drill the hole but how? And where? Well, now that the bottle is aligned with the hood indentation, it's time to push it down as far as it'll go and then make a mark on the firewall where to drill.

I chose to use a drill punch, a spring-loaded, pointed punch that "pops" an indentation into a surface so that a drill bit can find its mark easily. Otherwise, I would use whatever I could find to simply make a mark. As the saying goes, measure twice, cut, err, drill once.

Push the bottle down as far as it will go and using the punch, scrape some small marks on the firewall.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...lelocation.jpg

Since the bottle is now attached and aligned, lift the fill end out of the way and punch a dent into the firewall enough to see it bulge on the other side. This is because a drill won't fit into the cowl so it'll have to be from the engine side and now you know where to drill exactly.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...romoutside.jpg

Now punch the bulge back into the firewall to give your drill bit a place to center and go ahead and make your hole.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...3Drillhole.jpg

There, perfect.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...adyforbolt.jpg

Now push the bolt through and feed it through the two nylon spacers and finally the bottle's mount.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...Insertbolt.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...lofspacers.jpg

Stick the washer on the end and finally the acorn nut.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...llacornnut.jpg

Now tighten both sides and check for hood clearance. The bottle should be sitting flush and the bolts will look nice in the engine bay.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...oclearhood.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...souseAllen.jpg

Test the wiper-rod clearance to make sure it doesn't touch the bottle by turning on the wipers briefly.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...eginwiring.jpg



Connecting the power:

Now that the bottle is mounted solidly, it's time to make it work. Take the plug you snipped off earlier and some spare length of wire of the same gauge and begin splicing it into the car's wiring. The original wiring is not long enough to make it to the new bottle so a spare pair of wires, such as 18-gauge speaker wire, should be connected and run into the wiper cowl all the way to the new bottle with a little extra you can trim later. This is a good time to wrap the wiring with the loom.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...fromwiring.jpg


I chose to use shrink tube for this install and have a some pieces ready to go here. Take the connector with wire sticking out (hopefully you've left yourself enough to use) and strip the ends.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...insulation.jpg

Okay the wires are stripped and shrink tube inserted.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...ctingwires.jpg

Now a little application of heat, a lighter will do too...
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...kthetubing.jpg

and the plug is connected.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/.../46Alldone.jpg

Insert the connector into the pump. Yet another nice feature of the Suzuki bottle: the connector is accessible. It's like the bottle was made for the Miata.
http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...umpandTEST.jpg

Application notes: Make sure to slide on the shrink tubing before connecting the wires together. Not a big deal if you don't but it's a pain to redo this step. Ensure that you connect the wires correctly on each end of your speaker-wire extension. If you don't, the pump will run in reverse.

.

That's it! Now stand back and admire your handiwork and cleaner engine bay.

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...0NA/52Done.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/...engineview.jpg

Edit : removed question answered above.

Would it make ny difference if the pump is for a car with or without ABS?

I've got a writeup on another forum on how to do these for UK/RHD cars.

http://www.mighty5s.com/thread/2601/...uki-cappuccino