NB2 Engine Installation on NB1 Chassis

[atlnb]

So, I recently purchased a 2002 long block with 82k miles on the clock. This is due to a large amount of oil consumption on my current 99 motor with 178k miles. The motor still pulls very hard and is reliable (to an extent), but will drink a lot of oil which I believe the oil rings are compromised since compression is in the mid 170s across all cylinders. What I was originally planning to do was to take the head off my current motor, have it inspected and cleaned to make sure the head is in good condition and mate that to the bottom end of the NB2 motor since I've heard the head on the NB1 is more free flowing as opposed to the VVT head. I also have the MS intake cam so I'd like to retain that piece and get the increased compression from the NB2 bottom end. This is also due to me hearing and reading this is the easiest and most cost efficient way to swap since I can retain my current ECU and wiring harnesses.

However, I am being told by someone I autocross with I can use the full NB2 motor with VVT included and full functionality if I use the VVT tuner that DIYAutotune supplies only. No need for the NB2 ECU and wiring harness. I'm checking to see if this is factual and if anyone has done this or if there is more to that idea that wasn't specified before.

[Satisaii]

You will need to move the cam angle sensor wiring from the front of the engine to the back and add the wiring for the VVT solenoid. There will be some more wire splicing to install the VVT Tuner near the ECU. I don't think there is too much more beyond that for the VVT install. I have not done it on a 99 before, but have done it on a couple of NA installs. There is some significant difference in the coil wiring so that won't be PNP if you want to use the NB2 CNP setup.

[Hyper]

YES! the NB2 cam sensor is at the back of the cylinder, therefore you will need to shorten your NB1 cam sensor pigtail and add another pigtail for the VVT. I think is a good idea you should upgrade to Megasquirt in order to be able to control the VVT. Good luck with your swap

[atlnb]

Well, I live in an area where I have to pass emissions, so i'd like to remain OBD-II compliant. I'm still not certain which method I'd like to go with this, but at least it seems to be possible. Seems so far to be easier to mate the NB1 head to the NB2 bottom end in terms of cost and installation. Any other info is appreciated.

[Hyper]

Well, I live in an area where I have to pass emissions, so i'd like to remain OBD-II compliant. I'm still not certain which method I'd like to go with this, but at least it seems to be possible. Seems so far to be easier to mate the NB1 head to the NB2 bottom end in terms of cost and installation. Any other info is appreciated.

why don't you build a short block?

[atlnb]

if I built a short block for my current motor, it would cost a good bit of money and time. Since I saw a good deal on the motor and wanted the compression bump, I decided to go this route. Plus, I haven't heard of many people doing this swap.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Use an NB2 head gasket, unless you have, or are planning a coolant re-route.

[atlnb]

I currently have an NB1 head gasket but that's to use my current head. Are you saying I need a reroute if I installed the full VVT motor?

[— kung fu jesus —]

Nope. It is 't a big secret the 3&4 clys suffer on these cars. The '01+ HG is revised, though sort of a trite solution, it allows a little better flow through the passages, I seem to recall. A reroute would be best, if you have the scratch.

Though I understand your reference to time and cost, it seems a little silly to NOT look into a hone refresh and re-ring on the spare motor. Seems like a half measure throwing in an unknown motor to alleviate your current issues.

[atlnb]

Yea i could if that's something I can handle afterwards. Initial plan was to sell the bottom end and the VVT head to get back some of the money from buying the motor.