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  1. #1
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! urban's Avatar
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    link ecu users

    i have an mk2 link ecu . ive had it awhile . i bought it used in 2004. it has boost control and im using the AEM wideband with it.
    i know there are a few others here that are still using this thing.i like it cause its simple,and its been pretty reliable. and they've become pretty cheap , ever since the MS came out.
    ofcourse the MS is better , and im not trying to compare ,or do i care about other ecu's . fact is some of us still have these and , i for one , are not replacing it.
    hopefully we can get some useful info from this thread if we can get all the Link owners to chime in .

  2. #2
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Titus's Avatar
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    1.6 Link owner here.

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    Forum Sponsor revlimiter's Avatar
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    Obiwan Link owner here. Using a Boomslang harness to make it work in my 95.

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! urban's Avatar
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    So Rev.
    i read your pretty good with your link.
    i do all my tuning through keypad. Using the wideband see fuel . so far ive never touched the ignition settings.
    about cold start ,what zones are adjusted to reduce fuel on cold start . currently it starts pretty rich and runs a little rough. i think its a 30 sec warm up till fuel starts to reduce on its own.
    where can i adjust this ?

  5. #5
    Forum Sponsor revlimiter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by urban View Post
    So Rev.
    i read your pretty good with your link.
    i do all my tuning through keypad. Using the wideband see fuel . so far ive never touched the ignition settings.
    about cold start ,what zones are adjusted to reduce fuel on cold start . currently it starts pretty rich and runs a little rough. i think its a 30 sec warm up till fuel starts to reduce on its own.
    where can i adjust this ?
    I'm okay at it. I also do all of my tuning with the keypad and haven't touched ignition.

    And it's funny you mention cold start. I've just started fiddling with that due to it being WAY too rich. If I remember right, Z6 and Z16 are the zones? I'll look again when I drive the car next.

    BTW, I keep a Link tuning manual under the passenger seat in a thin binder. It helps me a lot for this sort of thing. You might consider doing the same.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I have used a Link Mk1 and Mk2 in my car. I use a MSPnp now. What I miss most about the Link is the knock sensor.

  7. #7
    Idling - Listen to it purr... brontosaurus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    I have used a Link Mk1 and Mk2 in my car. I use a MSPnp now. What I miss most about the Link is the knock sensor.
    Is Knocksense any good?

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    Super Moderator kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brontosaurus View Post
    Is Knocksense any good?
    I don't particulaly think so.

  9. #9
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! urban's Avatar
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    I actually carry on also .its atill kinda vague.

  10. #10
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Flyineunos's Avatar
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    I have a link 1.6, and I have never really messed with it. Usually only when I am smogging/tuning. Today I noticed something while I was adjusting idle, it seems to rest to the old settings when I shut down the car. Do I need to store my settings , and save them somewhere?

    Also, I really need to raise the idle when the A/C is on, but what do those numbers mean?

    1990 Greddy, AK N2 flares, 15x10 custom Southernways, AAC Flush mounts, RS Refine, Bomex, Moroso, HDHCDD, Megan CO, Momo, Voodoo
    1990 FM2, Arias pistons, Eagle H Rods, 15x10 Panasport, KGW, RS Refine, GV, Moroso, Koyo, Link, HDHCDD, Megan CO, Momo, Nakame, Zoom Eng.

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    Forum Sponsor revlimiter's Avatar
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    I played with the Link a bit this afternoon. I re-enabled the Combo O2 setting. I was on wideband-only before (got the AEM also). Turning on combo mode lets the narrowband take care of the 100 zone mixture and the wideband take care of everything else. Seems to have helped with the idle mixture and cold start a bit.


    Quote Originally Posted by Flyineunos View Post
    I have a link 1.6, and I have never really messed with it. Usually only when I am smogging/tuning. Today I noticed something while I was adjusting idle, it seems to rest to the old settings when I shut down the car. Do I need to store my settings , and save them somewhere?

    Also, I really need to raise the idle when the A/C is on, but what do those numbers mean?

    heh. Yeah, you have to save after you change anything. From the main screen, you press up... twice? to get to the STORE screen. Then you hit both adjust buttons together at the same time. You do this with the clutch out and the car idling. It CAN be moving at the time, but the engine has to be idling. I've stored over 80 before. lol

    As for AC, just increase the numbers. That's the amount of fuel you're adding when the AC turns on in points. 0 is the minimum, 255 is the max. Add like 4 points and see how it does. If it doesn't help, add 4 more. When it starts getting too rich, take away 2.

  12. #12
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! urban's Avatar
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    This is why i started this thread.
    i know its deep inside m.net but its good to have active users know each other

  13. #13
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Flyineunos's Avatar
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    OMG! Thanks Rev! going outside now.....

    1990 Greddy, AK N2 flares, 15x10 custom Southernways, AAC Flush mounts, RS Refine, Bomex, Moroso, HDHCDD, Megan CO, Momo, Voodoo
    1990 FM2, Arias pistons, Eagle H Rods, 15x10 Panasport, KGW, RS Refine, GV, Moroso, Koyo, Link, HDHCDD, Megan CO, Momo, Nakame, Zoom Eng.

  14. #14
    Idling - Listen to it purr...
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    Another LINK owner here. I adjust mine for emissions and that's about it. Passed in Dec. by pulling 5 points of master fuel and 2 degrees of timing. It's worked for me for 7 years.

  15. #15
    Forum Sponsor revlimiter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sharpie View Post
    Another LINK owner here. I adjust mine for emissions and that's about it. Passed in Dec. by pulling 5 points of master fuel and 2 degrees of timing. It's worked for me for 7 years.
    Heck yeah! I did the same thing last e-test. I pulled something like 5 points of master fuel and turned off L3/L4 autotuning. Passed with no problems.

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