All the Cali guys should but a link!
My engine builder wants me to change to AEM EMS.....I told him hell no!(for now)
1990 Greddy, AK N2 flares, 15x10 custom Southernways, AAC Flush mounts, RS Refine, Bomex, Moroso, HDHCDD, Megan CO, Momo, Voodoo
1990 FM2, Arias pistons, Eagle H Rods, 15x10 Panasport, KGW, RS Refine, GV, Moroso, Koyo, Link, HDHCDD, Megan CO, Momo, Nakame, Zoom Eng.
The worst thing about the link, to me, was the resolution and lack of support. The autotune on my MS is far easier to work with and I just need to pull out a netbook I keep in the car. I thought I read there is/will be an app for android, so that should be pretty cool too.
I have been without my car for 11 months. Before it went down, I was planning to do some tuning on it. I have a netbook with DLL up and running on it, but I fear it will take me a while to get back into the swing of things with the LINK once the car is back home.
Its easier to tune if you can look at the maps in cells on a spreadsheet.
Yeah, a lot easier. A buddy (Sharpie's dad) has a laptop with the Link tuning software on it. Looking at the table is so much easier to understand.
As for "lack of support" I have to disagree. I had a crazy problem with my sensors fluctuating like mad this past summer. Ray Ayala (the guy responsible for the Miata Link firmware) spent many hours emailing back and forth with me till I got it fixed. Turned out to be my wideband dirtying up the grounds for every sensor on the intake side of the engine. But it took a lot of help from him to figure that out.
FM has helped me out quite a few times in the past too. Jeremy still supports the Link.
I've reduced my Z6 about 20 points (that's the CSTARTF number, for the extra fuel that keeps your car running the first 20something seconds) and cut Z16 a bit as well (COLD fuel, the stuff that stays with you till you're warmed up to 80*C). Much nicer cold emissions. No more black soot being sprayed all over my driveway. Or at least a lot less.
BTW, Z715 is the fuel prime squirt. I used to know this at some point and forgot. I've been double priming on the coldest mornings because mine was set down at 120. I've got it up to 200 now (255 is the max) and get the car to fire on the first chug of the starter.
i dropped z16 a few points and it really smooths out after the 20sec start.
but my z6 didnt seem to have an effect . the initial value in the base map is at 30 .
what was the initial value before you changed it , and then after. ??
cause of that i didnt even touch the z715.
unfortunately i dont have a narrowband o2 hooked up. wide only.
well , i doubt ive ever touched the z6, so im pretty sure its on the default. but the aem shows a flashing 10.0 at start. so it is too rich. i ran z6 up and down trying to see the gauge lean out before the 20 sec timeout but didnt get anything. if its rich , i should take the value down .
what do you think .
cant i reduce the amount of start time the z6 effects?
FM Link defaults
You can reduce the Z6 start time. It's... damn, I closed the tab with the Link defaults I just pasted... it's in the 700s somewhere. It's also on the keypad for CSTARTF. There's a number (30) and the time (22). You use the right side up/down keys to change the time.
I just realized how silly this must sound to users of modern, mature ECUs. I'll have a Megasquirt someday, but I'm gonna enjoy my Link while it continues to work.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/index.php <<<<<<<<<<<< FM's Link support page.
and the downloadable link manual
is this it.
z710 - choke decay?
Last edited by urban; 01-17-2012 at 05:19 PM.
As for the spreadsheets, if you don't have the laptop, take a little time and write out the cells in a grid on paper. I used to have an Xcell template for this. Seeing the cells helps you to 'smooth' out the map.
I think I still might have a PDA and charger somewhere with PLink on it. If anyone is interested, I can see if I still have it.