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Thread: Headlights causing abrupt rpm dip

  1. #1
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch SubieGreg's Avatar
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    Headlights causing abrupt rpm dip

    When I turn my headlights on when the car is running the fuel pump relay clicks and my rpm drop immediately. Almost to the point where it stalls the motor. It has only stalled once or twice but I can't turn my headlights on while the car is running without this dip. I have the Dapper HID kit installed but the issue does not exist with the ballasts unplugged (everything is still connected)

    I'm thinking it has to be a bad ground with the hid kit but I moved the ground and the problem remains. What else could be causing this?

    This was the original ground but I moved it to the wiper motor.
    20141210_165059 by Greggels_17, on Flickr

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    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    What is the drawl on the lights? I would be suspicious of the health of the alternator.

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  4. #3
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch SubieGreg's Avatar
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    Not sure what the draw is. How do I test that? Alternator is 2 years old and tested good at Advance Auto. Battery is a 400 CCA Duracell motorcycle battery and is brand new as of yesterday.
    Last edited by SubieGreg; 12-10-2014 at 06:13 PM.

  5. #4
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch SubieGreg's Avatar
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    Also if I start the car with the headlights on both lights go out while the car is cranking but the driver side recovers and comes back on. Passenger side stays off. I swapped ballasts and bulbs and the problem remained exactly the same

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    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    There should be specific information from the packaging? Maybe contact the vendor? Maybe test the alternator's production at the battery. You will need to get a reading on the battery posts before starting, while it is running and then monitor it when you have someone turn the lights on. Try to use the the same ground as the engine does on that side of the engine bay. A rebuilt alternator at two years old doesn't necessarily mean it's healthy.

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    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone etikoner's Avatar
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    My car was having this problem as well. Driving at night became a nightmare for me at one point.

    I'm just removing the HID ballast for now and will see how my car drives once I get it back.

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  10. #7
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch SubieGreg's Avatar
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    I tried installing my old headlights and my car acts normally. No fuel pump relay issue at all.

    Battery is in the trunk so I can't use the same ground as the engine to check voltage draw. And the packaging for the headlight kit is long gone. Voltage at the battery with the car off is 12.5V, engine on is 12V and with headlights on is 11.65V

  11. #8
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    The ground for the engine is at the back of the head on the passenger side.

    The voltage at the battery, with the engine running should be 14.2 volts, IIRC.

    Your alternator is weak and/or the lights are drawing just too much current. Ditch those HIDs.

  12. #9
    Idling - Listen to it purr... alexlula's Avatar
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    i had the same problem this summer and my alternator died dunno if its the hids that causes that but all i know is that i need a new alternator

  13. #10
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch SubieGreg's Avatar
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    I'm gonna buy a new alternator after the holidays. I'm about to swap in a 99 1.8 in my 91 though. How easy is it to convert a 1.6 alt to work on the 99 motor?

  14. #11
    Idling - Listen to it purr... alexlula's Avatar
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    alright, keep me updated, if it stopped, if not ill just take the hids out

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    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SubieGreg View Post
    I'm gonna buy a new alternator after the holidays. I'm about to swap in a 99 1.8 in my 91 though. How easy is it to convert a 1.6 alt to work on the 99 motor?
    Easy.

  16. #13
    Idling - Listen to it purr... alexlula's Avatar
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    heres the link on the forum for the 1.8 swap

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