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Thread: For more speed, add lightness

  1. #76
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Thanks for the compliments. I probably can't help you with the Jenvey stuff as I suspect the angle and overall length of the Jenvey manifold, throttle bodies and air horns will be different than what I've got. I'm running the JC50/75 and it's a tight fit. I believe Quinn is running the JC50/100 on his NB with the TWM standard 35mm length air horns. Wildo is running a massive JC50/150 on his NA with 100mm long air horns.

  2. #77
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Hyper's Avatar
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    This car will look perfect and clean with a hotside reroute. Here are pictures of my reroute, it is for sale.




    and the front support

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  4. #78
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    No thanks. I've already got the Mtuned reroute installed. I don't need to reinvent the wheel here. Just need to make a return coolant pipe to ease packaging and clean up the install.

  5. #79
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Hyper's Avatar
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    The only reason I can not use it in my present set up is because I am have a crossflow radiator. Good luck with your present configuration I am sure you will figure out something cool.



  6. #80
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Yeah, it would make more sense

  7. #81
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Vacuum pump has been refurbished with new base, handle and exhaust cap and intake caps. Gave it an oil change and a good cleaning overall. Had one massive fail where the unit was accidentally switched on while tipped to the side and it spit about 1/2 pint of mineral oil all over my face, workbench, toolbox, walls and floor making a huge mess. Lesson learned: don't ever work on tools that are still plugged in.

    Setup a test rig to see if this thing can pull a vacuum. It works when tested on the workbench, pulls ~29.9" mercury, which is a good sign that this thing will work in real life.


    Eventually I plan to mount the pump to a hand truck or possibly a wooden carryall and plumb in a vacuum reservoir and vacuum switch so that it runs more efficiently when I'm doing composites work. Basically I'm building a DIY version of what you can buy commercially for a lot less money.

    http://www.acpsales.com/Vacuum-Bagging-Systems.html



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  9. #82
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Still chipping away at this. Whenever you deviate from stock you've got to get creative with plumbing and problem solving. For instance, a few years ago my AC was converted from R12 to R134a and there is a 90° adapter fitting screwed onto the original low-pressure suction pipe that goes from the evaporator under the dash to another hose that goes to the AC compressor. That fitting interferes with my air filter and has to be moved as keeping the AC intact and functioning was a project prerequisite. And until the air filter is positioned properly, I am reluctant to finalize the routing of the fuel hoses, coolant reroute return hose and electrical wiring.



    Unfortunately, I don't know anyone with expert brazing skills who could modify my existing hard pipe. And oh, by the way, it's no longer available new and finding a used replacement pipe is a bit of a crap shoot. I think at Planet Miata they just have these giant 55 gallon barrels filled with all years of AC hard pipes they've taken off so you've got to know exactly what you're looking for. A decision was made to make a custom AC hose to replace that low-pressure suction pipe.



    To figure out what was needed, the system was evacuated and then taken apart and measured.







    I was originally hoping to make my own AC hoses using the Eaton Aeroquip EZ-Clip system fittings as they have some trick stuff like 90° fittings with integrated charge ports. Unfortunately, they don't supply the required metric fittings.

    There are no AC professionals locally where the car is being worked on who can make custom hoses. On top of that, the car is inoperable at the moment so I can't take the car to a specialist if I wanted to. Because the AC pipes create an interference condition that prevents me from finishing my ITB install, I don't want the AC system to remain open to the atmosphere while I dicker around getting the car running. Fortunately, a guy on the V8 Miata website recommended another outfit in FL who make custom AC hoses. After much researching and phone calls and emails back and forth with my dad and several drawings we came up with this:







    The stock washer bottle is now gone freeing up much needed room in the engine bay. So the idea is that the new hose will come out of the firewall and then point downwards and be clocked at 8 o'clock (away from the engine) and then loop back towards the engine in a gentle S-curve as it heads towards the front of the car and then down towards the front sway bar where it connects to the rest of the system. Fingers crossed that we got it right the first time. It's never easy building this stuff off-site.
    Last edited by freedomgli; 05-05-2016 at 02:11 PM.

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  11. #83
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Here's an idea of how some of the V8 Miata guys have done it. Instead of coming straight off the firewall, mine is going to bend down and away from the motor before looping back. Here's hoping there is enough flex in the 1" OD, 0.5" ID #10 barrier AC hose to do that. I really would have preferred a 45° fitting at the firewall but none was available.









    Operation: I want Air Conditioning in my LS!
    Last edited by freedomgli; 05-05-2016 at 02:18 PM.

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  13. #84
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    I went to a friend's workshop and he helped me bend up some 1.25x0.065 aluminum 6061-T6 tubing for some prototype coolant hard pipe to replace the really long rubber return hose with internal spring that ships with the M-tuned coolant reroute kit. The hose can be a pain to fit onto the radiator with the internal spring that keeps the hose from collapsing. And once again, packaging was a bit tricky as the flexy rubber hose could rub against the throttle bodies, alternator, fuel hoses, and/or body, which would wear a hole through and create a leak. You don't want a completely rigid setup, either, as vibration would tear it apart. So a decision was made to bend some custom tubing in the hopes of making a coolant return pipe that would ease packaging around the throttle bodies at the expense of adding joints that could potentially leak.











    It was a bit of a gamble bending thin wall aluminum as it can wrinkle, distort and even tear depending on the centerline radius and bend angle. Using annealed tubing would be best as it is soft and bends easily but that is really hard to come buy and ought to be be heat treated afterwards. 6061 T6, on the other hand, is rather ubiquitous. The only way to find out if it would bend was to try it. My friend converted the sketch into CAD and did all the figuring. Then we bent up two of them with slight variations and kept two tubes as spares in case these don't work out. There was some slight ovaling at the bend but nothing to worry about. Flow rate will not be impacted. I will trim the ends to the correct length as I fit them to the car and I will also roll a bead in each end to keep the hose clamps from slipping off using my Earl's EZ Beader tool, which is rather a one-trick pony but way cheaper than buying a slip roller or tube bead roller with the correct dies.



    My hose clamps got soul! If they didn't they wouldn't be in here! Murray Corporation make these trick constant tension stainless steel hose clamps that keep your hoses from leaking whether hot or cold without having to crank down on them super tight. They're also lined so they don't cut into the soft radiator hose, either.


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  15. #85
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Much thanks to Adam (ada) at Bay Area Miata Drivers for the inspiration.


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  17. #86
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Can't wait to see how that turns out
    Just another cracka azz cracka with an Old Beat up '97

  18. #87
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Hyper's Avatar
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    man, what about using -16 an fittings from engine to the radiator? They are far best choice for any build.

  19. #88
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    -16 AN fittings and stainless steel braided hose are nice but also expensive. I'm already using the M-tuned kit so to make that work I'd need a professional welder to modify my radiator inlet, inline t-stat housing and water outlet with threaded AN fittings and/or ferrules for Hydraflow 14J21 flexible fluid couplings. Not worth it to me.

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  21. #89
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    I already deleted the entire front tstat housing. If you're just using a Kia water neck (or similar) at the rear then the AN fittings are a little easier to manage. It's the inline tstat that complicates going with AN fittings and braided hose option.

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  23. #90
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! 90blue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hyper View Post
    This car will look perfect and clean with a hotside reroute. Here are pictures of my reroute, it is for sale.




    and the front support
    I am a fan of hot side reroutes. How did you address the bypass flow with your route ?
    Peter

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