Having some issues disassembling my Work CR01's

[Airbrush1]

I finally pulled the trigger on a set of Works for my MSM, and since it's winter, and I happen to have a gift certificate for some hydrodipping work (I love raffles), I have commenced the disassembly of the wheels in prep for dipping the centers only.

First off, the damn bolts are on so tightly (with some sort of loctite as well) I nearly punched myself in the face a few times trying to remove them... All the bolts are out of one wheel now, but the wheel face wont budge! It's my understanding that the barrels on these are welded, and that I shouldnt have to cut the silicone to remove the faces ( they aren't sandwiched between the barrel and lip as some wheels are) I only beat on the center with a rubber mallet as I don't want to damage the face of the wheel, but I'm at a loss as to how to remove the centers at this point

Has anyone successfully taken these wheels apart? (FYI, they are a 2011 manufacture date)

[— Phatmiata —]

There is a wheel shop near me that uses GE Ultraglaze SSG 4000 Structural silicone, it is NOT the stuff you can by at the box stores either, this is sold via construction supply houses only. Most of the structural grade silicone sealants are generally rated at a Tensile Strength of 300 to 340 psi, that is pretty strong!! Remember that this same silicone is used to hold in heavy glass windows on skyscrapers where they have to take high wind loads, and lots of movement from the building swaying.

I know all this info because we sell these products in my industry

The standard silicone you find at the home stores is a joke and my 6 year old can rip that stuff apart, but for the structural silicone that they probably used on your wheels its a whole new ballgame, and you will need something like DSR-5 silicone remover to go behind the bond line of the silicone and re-emulsify the sealant making it a little easier to remove.

[—Martin—]

I was totally gonna say what Phat just said but he beat me to it

[—atank—]

[Airbrush1]

The faces are not sandwiched between the lip and barrel, nor are they welded to either of them, there seems to be no evidence of silicone on the mounting face between the centers and the welded barrel. I'm assuming that just the right amount of heat will get things moving, but I may be wrong.

[— Phatmiata —]

might help if you take the nuts off

[Airbrush1]

You're on to something there!!!! After I remove the bolts, the center slid right out without issue!!!!


Actually it took a 260 degree oven and trying to break a rubber mallet off on the face (with an oven mitt for cushioning), but the verdict is that the faces DO IN FACT COME OUT!

[—Martin—]

I'm anxious to see them after they're dipped

[Tkblazer]

Lol did you really not try to unbolt the faces off first? I knew you can take it about because there is that guy with the red na with the ugly repainted cr01s

[—atank—]

After you got the lips, and wheel face off did you notice and silicone or glaze??

[Airbrush1]

Lol did you really not try to unbolt the faces off first? I knew you can take it about because there is that guy with the red na with the ugly repainted cr01s

Lol of course I unbolted them! I was just being a smartass

Sweet spot in the oven seems to be around 290 degrees or so, then just beat the hell out of them with a rubber mallet . No sealant of any kind on the face to barrel interface, it's just a very very tight fit!

When I go to reassemble I will leave the faces out on the porch in the cold for a few hours, and heat the barrels in the oven again so the faces are easier to insert.

[—tsingson—]

Good job man! I anxiously await the final product.

[Tkblazer]

I think.I remember seeing a video at the factory where they torch the barrels before slipping the faces in so your technique makes sense

[— freedomgli —]

Slight interference fit. Nice.

[iamdallas]

I am excited to see. I have considered doing my CR-01s another color, or polished.