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Thread: Sources for OEM connectors & terminals

  1. #1
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    Sources for OEM connectors & terminals

    Since I'm in the process of building a custom wire harness for my build and have been searching for sources for OEM connectors w/ the necessary pins I thought I'd share the sites I've found so far. If you know of any others feel free to post them up here

    EasternBeaver - A lot of our connectors are the Sumitomo DL series
    http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...SMDL/smdl.html

    OnlineComponents.com - ECU connectors and pins
    (1) 64 pin ECU Male Receptacle PN: 174518-7 (oem harness plugs into it)
    (1) 22 pin Female Plug (plug into ecu) PN: 174515-6
    (1) 26 pin Female Plug (plug into ecu) PN: 174516-6
    (1) 16 pin Female Plug (plug into ecu) PN: 174514-6
    (16) .070" contact PN: 173631-6
    (48) .040" contact PN: 173716-1

    changing the -X changes the material used or color, so if they don't have in stock search for it without the -1 or -6.


    Ballenger Motorsports - great kits for individual connectors/pins but just like any of the other sites, they're not all there
    http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/mazda_miata.php
    Paul | IG- @psulja
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    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    Just spent $70 with them today lol
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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Satisaii's Avatar
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    I thought Ballanger was working to provide most of the connectors for the engine compartment of a NB. I used all new connectors and sourced them all through Ballanger on my latest engine bay rewire.

    Some notes on that:

    A proper crimping tool is important. I have found that the tool for Weatherpack connectors works ok. It will give a good crimp on the wire section and then I tweak the boot end with a pair of pliers. Saves having to buy multiple tools for a single job. You can also get one with interchangeable jaws, but those can get $$$ too.

    The CAM angle sensor on the NB uses the same pins as the ECU. These do require a special tool to get a square shaped crimp. I have done this with the Weatherpack tool and pliers, but it was messy and I had to throw away some parts. I would just buy a pre-crimped pigtail for this.

    The Sumitomo and Ampseal connectors will cover 90% of what needs to be done. I order extra pins and keep them on hand for future repairs. With patience and a tiny screwdriver you can depin and reuse the plastic bits.

    The NB 3 pin temperature sensor connector housing is no longer in production (unless this has changed since my last search.) Plan on reusing that. IIRC it is a Sumitomo connector.

    And if you are really interested in wiring:

    http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

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    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    "Thanks Given" for posting that info up Paul !!

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    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! psulja's Avatar
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    @satisaii do you have a link to a crimper that works well for our terminals? I'd rather buy the right one before I get started on my harness in the next few days
    Paul | IG- @psulja
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    1991 Mariner Blue - Built 1.8 swap, EFR, Fab9Tuning, Tii drivetrain

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Satisaii's Avatar
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    I have this one with the plastic block removed. The plastic block lines it up perfectly for the Weatherpack stuff but does not work with anything else.

    http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/r...uge-p-365.html

    I use it for the initial crimp and then go back with a small pair of pliers to really secure the boot. It is not perfect, but it does save me from having 3 or 4 $200 crimp tools that get used once a year.

  12. #9
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Pinning this thread up top. Extremely valuable resource. Well done!

  13. #10
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone wannafbody's Avatar
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    I have a Microsquirt with a cable. I'm assuming that I just need a 174518-7 connector to attach to the cable and a MAP sensor. Correct?

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