Hub Swap.

[NobleRogue]

I am curious. Is it possible to swap the NA's four lug hub for an NC's 5 lug hub? I figure this would be better than an adapter plate if it is doable. Also I just have to say. I'm a little disappointed that Mazda went back to the four lug hub for the new ND's. At the same time. I must commend Mazda for bringing the weight back down so it is only 1lbs. heavier than the original NA.

[—RuckkehrMiata—]

I can't relate, I love four lug hubs! 5 lug only seems to have ricey options and are so common on cars in general.

I have seen people use wobbles to get 5 lug wheels to fit, but nobody approves such blasphemy to my knowledge.

[NobleRogue]

I'm not looking for 5 lugs for looks. I intend to begin a long term build that ends with my NA having a minimal goal of naturally aspired 350whp. I'm afraid that the four lug hub may fall short of being strong enough to keep the wheels on the hubs. And if in the future I decide to add a turbo for even more power? Would four lugs still be strong enough to keep my wheels on the hub? I know that its a matter of friction vs. strength. Will the friction of the tires on he road surface be greater than the pound feet of torque that the four lugs can handle? Also, I was hoping for a 16 x 7 rim and most of those require five lugs.

[druz]

400 lb.ft, 4 lugs. There's a few with 400+ torques to the wheels. I'd be more worried about the traction of your16x7 wheels.

[NobleRogue]

so what size tires would offer the best traction and lateral G's at 350+whp?

[NobleRogue]

I may be mistaken but I thought that a shorter sidewall and wider tire would offer better forward and lateral traction.

[NobleRogue]

I understand that if I kept the same sized rim but went with a shorter side wall. It would give me greater torque but at the expense of top speed. And by keeping the original sized rims I'm limiting the width of my tires; thus, sacrificing traction. I figured a 16" rim with 40 profile tires would keep the overall diameter of the tire about the same. and then widening the rim to 7" would offer a larger contact area to provide more traction. Should I have more than 7" of width? Say 9.5" like the 350hp C5 corvette? But this would increase the over all diameter of the tires, taking away from the hp; although, it would increase the top speed.

[Greasemonkey2000]

I see lsx swapped Miata's running 225/45/15 for the most part, put that on a 15x9 rim and win. Anything beyond a 225 wide usually requires removing the front wheel liners and fender pulling, front and back, and even at that i think something like a 275 is about max...?....

As far as hub failures, i cannot speak from personal experience but my logic says you would break axles before hub issues. From my understanding usually the fronts are the only ones that typically have heat related failures from heavy track use and or wide/super sticky compound tires(on miatas). Seems like its the solid axle cars that have the issue you are concerned with. Hope i have been of some assistance.

[NobleRogue]

Another good question to ask in this thread may be to ask how much usable HP the Miata's uni-body frame can handle. I have seen a second gen Firebird twisted like a pretzel because the owner decided to drop in a 450hp power plant in to it's uni-body frame without a frame extension. I would really like to avoid this in my Miata. But I don't want to add that much weight if I don't have to.

[—RuckkehrMiata—]

People do it all the time, you can spend $4-500 and completely reinforce everything around your power plant with door bars, fender braces, rail braces, etc etc.

The miata can handle anything you can afford to throw at it.

[NobleRogue]

Thank you Greasmonkey. I like your Youtube videos. They have been helpful for me, and I have only owned the car for about a month. lol. Most of my experience falls in to the solid axle muscle care area. My first build was a "78" Firebird with a Chevey 350. What can I do to reduce the risk of breaking axles or having heat related failures of my front hubs?

[NobleRogue]

Thank you Ruckkehr. Would you know of any packages that may be available. Or would it be by piece meal?

[Greasemonkey2000]

No problem but i dont have any YouTube videos.

Unless you exceed 400+hp then rear axle/hub failures aren't likely unless you are doing hard launches which isn't IRS(independent rear suspension/cv axle) friendly.

Getting "blueprinted" front wheel hubs or repacking yours with Redline, Amsoil, Lucas or similar grade high temp grease, the latter is what the majority seem to do or get new ones and repack them.

[NobleRogue]

Must be someone else with your name on youtube, Grease, sorry for the mistaken identity thing. And thanks again.

[Greasemonkey2000]

Thank you Ruckkehr. Would you know of any packages that may be available. Or would it be by piece meal?

There are quit a few options out there: Roll bars- Harddog, Boss Frog, Blackbird Works, Zerek Fabrication
Various chassis parts- Flyin Miata, V8 Roadsters, GarageStar, Mazda Roadster, Rev9autosport, Goodwin Racing

So far i have Flyin Miata framerails w/ butterfly brace, GarageStar fender braces, GarageStar derlin door blocks, 949 Racing rear subframe brace and Beatrush PPF brace to assist with chassis rigidity, handling and traction. There is a HUGE difference from stock and im still going to do roll bar with door bars.

Glad to be of assistance just as SO MANY has helped me.