Grounding points can be a culprit for stuff like that too. Then again, when's the last time you've cleaned your intake, IAC valve, etc.?
Grounding points can be a culprit for stuff like that too. Then again, when's the last time you've cleaned your intake, IAC valve, etc.?
I've got a lot less horsepower - luckily they are Japanese horses - usually in better shape and more motivated.
I painted my headlight housings today.
tsingson (10-05-2015)
A higher electrical load can sometimes exacerbate symptoms that you wouldn't see otherwise. I mentioned that specifically because I dealt with two Miatas that had a gunked up IACV on one and a failing IACV on another and both only exhibited idle dip issues when a higher electrical load was placed on the system. After cleaning/replacing the issue was gone. Something else to keep in mind depending on your location, drastic weather changes can affect idle as well. Pop a jumper between TEN and GND ports in the diagnostics box and make sure the idle speed stays between 800-900 RPM, with 900 RPM being the better target to avoid idle droop.
Last edited by RotorNutFD3S; 10-05-2015 at 08:12 AM.
I've got a lot less horsepower - luckily they are Japanese horses - usually in better shape and more motivated.
Let's have a paint-party. I've done this on a few cars (non-Miata) without issue. Been wanting to do it, since I got the car.
News from the idle issue; checked my battery voltage with engine off, with engine running and with headlights on (LO&HI), voltage seems normal. However it still runs low with headlights on. Added to that, yesterday it stalled when slowing down to come to a halt. Thought it was an one-off incident, car started immediately after. However, the same thing happened this evening as well, so I start wondering; might has to do with the low idle though. Also, I have been hearing a fluttering/squeaking noise from the passenger side, it started around the same time as the idle issues, but cannot say for sure. I cannot really locate it too, as my clutch bearing is quite noisy... Any clues?
Alternator might be letting go. Mine was making a bunch of noise but I also had noticeable voltage drop at the same time so I knew what it was. Replaced it and all was well again.
I've got a lot less horsepower - luckily they are Japanese horses - usually in better shape and more motivated.
So, I noticed my brake light staying on during the commute to work this morning. It was on for the first 20 minutes. then off for about 25 minutes. came back on again during the last 5 minutes. Fluid has decreased to the minimal level. The BMC does not appear to be leaky, neither do the hard lines at the distribution block. looks like I'll be pulling the wheels off this weekend and looking for leaks/worn pads, if the weekend can stay dry.
I've also noticed a light metallic sounding scrape/thud that only occurs when the car is going downhill and turning to the right (ie, from a parking lot, onto a main road. there's those ramped concrete joiners). Not sure what that could be yet.
My house mates will be out of town the weekend of the 24-25. We can knock it out then at my place if you are down for it.
I'll see if I have any things that weekend but it sounds good. I also need to know if you still have that RTV that I lent you. I need to use it for an upcoming project.
Had a weird noise coming (presumably) from the exhaust. It was quite bad, at low revs/high load (3rd-5th gear pulls around 1800RPM). Adding to that I was hearing a clacking noise on some potholes last week, so I paid a visit in a friends' exhaust shop to check it. I was thinking that it would be either the heatshield coming loose or a broken exhaust hanger. Turned out the buzzing/resonating noise was due to the handbrake cable, a few zip ties fixed that. And the clacking noise was coming from the rear plate light connector, as I have removed the light housing due to a broken clip...