OK a buddy of mine advised that if I want a really nice gloss toy car get some 1500 grit and 3000 grit sand paper. Sand it with the 1500 first and then the 3000 compound and then I would have the ultimate shine. Well I did that but no shine just a dull scratched up paint. Any suggestions?
If it was done properly (wet sanding with the proper grit) you should be seeing virtually no scratches. A buff with a polishing machine would probably take it back to its' shiny state, unless you took too much offOriginally Posted by rajeev2liz
tsingson (09-15-2015)
If you sanded too much and broke through the clearcoat, then yes, your paint is destroyed. If not, then you should still be able to save it. Some photos should help us make a better diagnoses. Get some as close to the paint as possible so we can see what you have exactly
I am guessing, without seeing it, that if this is your first time doing this without your buddy's help then you need to start shopping for a decent paint job. Hopefully I am wrong.
Properly wet sanded with 3000 actually will have a sheen, but a cut and buff is not for the inexperienced without supervision.
Cutting thru on the edges and burning it with the buffer are common issues.
I'd get some help, if its not too late.
1992 BnT, 93LE #737, 94M, 95M, 96M, 97PEP, and a few 90s
If you haven't cut through clear, that is, if you're even dealing with base/clear, you can salvage this yourself. A decent DA polisher and good pads and compounds are your friends.
Meguiars M105 is a good cutting compound.
Be sure to follow it up with M205.
The right compound is the right compound. You have to do a test area and have a few different compounds on hand to figure it out. You might only need a light cut (like M205 or ScratchX 2.0). You might need some crazy cutting compound (M105 is pretty harsh) applied by machine (basically doubles the harness or more). Or you might have burned through the clear.
You need to do a test area on each panel and figure it out.
HarryB (09-16-2015)
If you still have some clear coat left then you need a "dual action buffer". Use a Meguiars "light cut" and then the "High Gloss". It's tedious but you might be able to save your paint. You usually wet sand on fresh paint before the hardener kicks in. On the buffer, use low-medium speed, be careful not to burn through the paint.
I would have used scratch X2.0 and buffed it to begin with. You usually wet sand to remove the orange peel on fresh paint. If you have a single stage enamel or lacquer then that's a different story. You can just buff it back alive. At worst you just have to get it resprayed.
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HarryB (09-16-2015)
Hope I didn't ruin the paint. Damn
Looks like you burned an edge on the upper passenger side of the hood, but the rest looks like it should buff out with the right compound and a rotary polisher. Be very careful of the edges or you'll cut through the paint. You'll have to use a wool pad first more than likely. Watch some videos on YouTube related to color sanding a vehicle or wetsanding and buffing. There are quite a few resorts out there to help you, wish you were close to me
Chances are very good a lake country orange foam pad with M105 followed by a lake country gray foam pad with M205 will give some real nice results. I've used that combo on stock NB base/clear with nice results.
With a DA polisher expect around 12 hours of work or more. Patience and technique as just as imporrant as product.
Thanks everyone for the advice am going to try it out this weekend got 3 different products to try scratch 2.0 cutting compound by mequires
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