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Thread: Madison - Demon's other-other white Miata

  1. #61
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    We fellow North Cackalakians have nicked Miati. They have they're charm and as we delve into them for upgrades we can shim those little quirks!
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
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    Demon I Am (08-11-2016)

  3. #62
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Hood looks great, Tony! It is subtle but not too subtle...just right.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
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  5. #63
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    So, I finally got around to replacing the Leak Detection Pump, and the gas cap (albeit a used part), hoping to get rid of that P2404 code (Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Range/Performance). And it did!

    A few miles down the road, and I pop a P2405 code (Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Sense Circuit Low)

    Not sure what else to look for. Google din't produce a lot of help on this one.

  6. #64
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Hmmm... seems like the EVAP pump causes it, but since you replaced that, it should not. I would check all cables/connections/fuses for the evap pump.

    Maybe swap over the charcoal canister and purge solenoid from the black NB?

  7. #65
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Evap pump is just a "check" pump; pressurises the evap system to detect any leaks. 2404 meant that there was some leak somewhere. The fact that you get 2405 now means that the pump itself has an issue with the power supplied to it. It is really weird to me.

  8. #66
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    Checked my OBDLink yesterday night, once I noticed the CEL was gone. The code was stored in the system, but the PCU was reading the light as off. Cleared the code with the OBDLink and it has not come back on.Waited for the car to be ready for inspection, and knocked that out. *looks for wood to knock on*

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  10. #67
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    OK, it's about to be Super Maintenance Time. I think I'm going to hold off on vehicle changing for another year or so. The timing belt is past-due (currently 115K), The clutch is sounding horrible. Since I'm doing TB AND Clutch, I might as well do anything that's easiest to do with the motor out.

    My buy-list so far

    Rear-left caliper
    rear pads
    rear rotors
    brake fluid

    Timing belt
    idler/tension pulley
    valve cover gasket
    accessory belts
    water pump
    thermostat/filter
    front main seal

    clutch
    pressure plate
    flywheel (?)
    flywheel bolts
    clutch line
    trans fluid
    master cylinder
    slave cylinder
    rear main seal
    transmission seals

    Anything else that I might as well do?

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    HarryB (08-08-2017)

  12. #68
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Cam seals and fuel filter?

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    Demon I Am (08-08-2017),NCGreasemonkey (08-09-2017)

  14. #69
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone RustRat's Avatar
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    Engine mounts
    check any place you may have some leaks and fix them
    clean up the block and cylinder head
    paint them to freshen up the engine bay


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Demon I Am (08-08-2017),JamieH (08-08-2017),NCGreasemonkey (08-09-2017)

  16. #70
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Replace radiator, auxiliary and heater hoses to either OEM rubber or high grade silicone hoses (e.g samco)
    Braided brake and clutch lines

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  18. #71
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    Great suggestions, gang. I'm always afraid that I'll forget that one thing that's a total bitch to replace otherwise

  19. #72
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I would probably degrease the engine while it is still in the car and running so I could identify any leaks before you pull it. If you pull the engine and let's say you find an oil pan leak, you can pull the pan and reseal it. Kind of have to know where to stop at that point because you could pretty easily replace the oil pump in that instance.

    If no other leaks are found, I would take time to degrease the engine and transmission more thoroughly outside of the car. It's also a great time to clean the engine bay and subframe, paint and lifted paint in there from brake fluid spills, if any.

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  21. #73
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    +1 on those engine mounts. 100k+ is around when the stockers are toast.

    +1 on degreasing everything. Besides making everything look prettier, it makes finding any future leaks easier/quicker to spot.

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    Demon I Am (08-22-2017),NCGreasemonkey (08-09-2017)

  23. #74
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Last time we had our cars together neither had a passenger seat. And you were thinking of selling.

    Everything the above have said. And the vacuum lines.

    You have a Beer meet happening soon?

    Peace fellow nut (And give the wife a peck on the cheek)!
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

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    Demon I Am (08-22-2017)

  25. #75
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Oh God, just no.


    No todo que es oro brilla.

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