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Thread: Car Part-Out / Stripping Tips and Tricks

  1. #1
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    Car Part-Out / Stripping Tips and Tricks

    I'm about to embark on my first (hopefully last) Miata part-out. I've removed almost everything on a Miata at some point, so most of the work should be somewhat familiar. Unfortunately the part-out will occur off-road (ie. in the dirt), so I don't have the luxury of rolling the car around once I get started, or using a cherry picker, for that matter. Any advice that can help make this less of a pain in the ass?

    The first stage in the process will be the interior removal. Mostly straight forward, not too much to worry about. The rear end will have to come up and back wheels off, in order to remove the rollbar. My questions at this stage:
    Regarding stability of the jacks and jack stands. Should I grab some concrete pavers to place under the jack stand feet, to keep them from digging in to the ground?
    Is there anything else I can do to make getting under the car easier? I could park the car on a tarp, or buy a sheet of plywood.
    Should I drain and remove the gas tank? I would assume that you can not scrap a car full of fuel.
    Are there interior parts on the car that just will never sell, that I should just scrap (steering column, heater core, etc)? I don't want to hang on to a bunch of crap.

    The second stage of the process will be finishing the car off. I just plan on hauling the body off to the Recycling plant down the street.

    In this instance, is it going to be easier to cut the front clip off of the car to remove the engine/tranny?
    Do I need to worry about pulling the windshield?
    How high does the car need to be to get everything out from underneath it?
    What are my scrap-able items (subframe, PPF, exhaust, shell, glass)?

    Am I missing anything else that will make my job quicker/easier?

  2. #2
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    If you can, and you have the room, separate the body from the subframes, PPF, engine, drivetrain as a whole. It makes it easier to strip the car and store stuff. Once the shell is stripped, it can be hauled away.

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    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    The other way is similar; strip the body and interior, remove the shell, keep the subframes/drivetrain as a whole as parts are taken.

  4. #4
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Windshields are cheap, so not really worth saving. Stuff like harnesses and sensors, take the time to remove connectors with care. Just need a couple of small electronics screwdrivers to prevent breaking clips. Do yourself a favor and catalog the parts including the p/n if you can. It will make you look like a savvy pro to potential customers.

    If the rad support is toast, cut it off. You can also look up or locate spot welds for the front 'arms'/engine shelf and figuratively remove the front clip under structure from the shell. Seen it/done it to an NA. It's pretty cool.

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    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    The car has a lot of miles, so you might benefit from disassembling the bottom of the motor, UNLESS you anticipate it sitting for a while. If so, dump a little oil down each chamber, put the spark plugs back in, seal off the intake and exhaust manis plus anything that might let moisture or critters in.

    Same for AC parts. Seal the ends of parts to keep out dirt and moisture.

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    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    Awesome. The motor still has great compression, it just leaks like a sieve at the seals. Before I take it apart, I'll video a compression test, because of want to see that if I was buying used.

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    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone ScratchNSniff's Avatar
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    Unfortunately the part-out will occur off-road (ie. in the dirt), so I don't have the luxury of rolling the car around once I get started, or using a cherry picker, for that matter.
    May not have mentioned this, however, at least the first few cars that I did way back when were also in the dirt...I used pavers with a piect of wood on top of them as I was worried they may crack with a direct load on them...also gave a bit extra clearance and peace of mind for me...cherry picker, I amazingly didn't have until about a year ago lol...you're a big ole boy, not quite as big as me, motor/trans/ect can all be picked up with enough might haha, although would keep subframes together and whole...

    The first stage in the process will be the interior removal. Mostly straight forward, not too much to worry about.
    Remove Doors --> Seats --> Plastics (Side, Console, Dash Plastics) --> Softtop --> Carpets (Minus Main w/ Rear Metals) --> Dash --> Main Carpet w/ remainder on firewall...

    The rear end will have to come up and back wheels off, in order to remove the rollbar. My questions at this stage:
    Regarding stability of the jacks and jack stands. Should I grab some concrete pavers to place under the jack stand feet, to keep them from digging in to the ground?
    I would...

    Is there anything else I can do to make getting under the car easier? I could park the car on a tarp, or buy a sheet of plywood.
    Just grab a few larger cardboard boxes...plywood...OUCH!!! Splinters where you can't get them out...

    Should I drain and remove the gas tank?
    I keep gas tanks, necks, and fuel pump assemblies, but only keep a single of each...they just rarely sell, have sold them, but don't often...may not be something worth keeping for the real estate it takes up pending on your storage situation...

    I would assume that you can not scrap a car full of fuel.
    Can yes, supposed to, nope...

    Are there interior parts on the car that just will never sell, that I should just scrap (steering column, heater core, etc)? I don't want to hang on to a bunch of crap.
    After the things that pop into your mind of big things people generally buy and the big pop that will come off the bat with things selling, you will find what all these pieces are lol...and there will be a lot...will depend how long you want to hold onto it and how motivated you are to get out there and try to get rid of stuff...steering columns w/ keys, door lock, trunk lock...always always sell...heater cores I scrap, PPF's scrap, condensors scrap...brings me an extra $15 and not worth keeping a ton of extras, once again, usually only hold onto a single...

    The second stage of the process will be finishing the car off. I just plan on hauling the body off to the Recycling plant down the street.
    Scrap currently seems to be about $3.50 to $4.50 per 100lb...Miata if stripped completely will be between 7-800 generally from the ones I've scrapped...


    In this instance, is it going to be easier to cut the front clip off of the car to remove the engine/tranny?
    Cut radiator support and save it, only piece of the body I'd keep once stripped...

    Do I need to worry about pulling the windshield?
    Don't waste your time lol...

    How high does the car need to be to get everything out from underneath it?
    Approx 20" will give enough room to pull out the subframes with suspension attached...

    What are my scrap-able items (subframe, PPF, exhaust, shell, glass)?
    Tub, broken wiring harnesses minus connectors, PPF, Heater Core, Broken wheels, Battery if Bad, AC Condensor/Radiator (if busted)...

    Am I missing anything else that will make my job quicker/easier?
    8mm Socket...
    Deep 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21...
    U-Shaped Pick Tool...

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