Aftermarket "smaller than factory" steering wheel. Educate me!

[The Driver]

In my previous NA, I had an NB steering wheel (which I still have, just not in the current NA), so I've never driven an NA with a smaller steering wheel than factory.


So, from a performance and only performance aspect, what are the advantages or disadvantages of a smaller than factory steering wheel?

For information, my NA has the following suspension mods: Fat Cat coilovers 600/375, 15X7 lightweight Advanti Storm S1 wheels, Wilwood/FM BBK (front), front FM sway bar/ factory rear sway, V8R frame rails, and FM shock tower brace.

[— fwdtamiya —]

If we're not talking about appearance: Ability to place the steering wheel where I want it and more knee room Most of that for me comes from moving the steering wheel closer to my chest via a normal sized quick release and normal sized hub, some of it would come from a smaller diameter. This had to be used with a bucket seat and custom brackets, otherwise the wheel is in my chest. There will also be increased effort but quicker direction input.

[— kung fu jesus —]

That last sentence was my reasoning. The effort is still light if you still have PS, but less leverage does make it feel sportier.

[The Driver]

If we're not talking about appearance: Ability to place the steering wheel where I want it and more knee room Most of that for me comes from moving the steering wheel closer to my chest via a normal sized quick release and normal sized hub, some of it would come from a smaller diameter. This had to be used with a bucket seat and custom brackets, otherwise the wheel is in my chest. There will also be increased effort but quicker direction input.

Thank you. quicker direction, would be nice.

That last sentence was my reasoning. The effort is still light if you still have PS, but less leverage does make it feel sportier.

Yes, forgot to mention that my NA has power steering, and no, I won't remove the power steering. personal preference.

[DarylSibcy]

Smaller wheels have sharper response, larger wheels have a more precise feeling.

Most daily driven car owners favour a 350-360mm wheel, stock is 365mm for reference.
Track cars tend to favour 330mm. For quicker input...

Bear in mind, power steering racks have a lock-to-lock radius of 2.8 turns, whereas manual racks have 3.3.... Putting a "smaller" 330mm wheel on an already "quicker rack" can risk making the steering response twitchy.

My advice? manual racks, 330mm - power racks, 350+.
My '90 has a power steering rack, tried a 330mm Deep Corn, lovely wheel, got twitchy on bumpy roads (which I have a lot of round here). The 65mph~ shimmy these cars suffer from was exaggerated. The stock 365mm is back on. And stayed on.

One day I'll get a Wooden 360mm Classico and call it done.

[The Driver]

Smaller wheels have sharper response, larger wheels have a more precise feeling.

Most daily driven car owners favour a 350-360mm wheel, stock is 365mm for reference.
Track cars tend to favour 330mm. For quicker input...

Bear in mind, power steering racks have a lock-to-lock radius of 2.8 turns, whereas manual racks have 3.3.... Putting a "smaller" 330mm wheel on an already "quicker rack" can risk making the steering response twitchy.

My advice? manual racks, 330mm - power racks, 350+.
My '90 has a power steering rack, tried a 330mm Deep Corn, lovely wheel, got twitchy on bumpy roads (which I have a lot of round here). The 65mph~ shimmy these cars suffer from was exaggerated. The stock 365mm is back on. And stayed on.

One day I'll get a Wooden 360mm Classico and call it done.

Beautiful post, thanks a bunch!

Looks like a 350 MM should work for me.

[speedypenguin]

I use a 350mm Momo Prototype for street driving. Then I switch to a 330mm Nardi Classic for track and auto-x driving.