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Thread: Paul B's 90 NA "Build"

  1. #61
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    I can't recommend motor mounts because I went with AWR 70d urethane motor mounts and they definitely add/worsen rattles but most are already there just made more apparent and so it just forces you to find and fix them. Even if you fix them all you have vibration that goes to the chassis that the rubber would dampen, but i see it as a complimentary back rub. I'd say the Mazda Competition for more durability over oem or even the MSM mounts, that's just me though.

    As far as 'knock offs' go... I don't mind buying one if the price isn't at the sacrifice of a big difference in quality/fitment. Beyond that a even BIGGER concern is customer service...how many other companies like the miata community has is going to give you the great customer service we are spoiled by?

    Supporting the vendors for supporting us is a 'win/win' scenario and as long as they continue being active in the community, delivering quality parts and great customer service then I will strive to support them when i can but there are parts I have opted to source else where but they are few and far between beyond buying used parts from fellow enthusiasts.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
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  3. #62
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    Dilemma!!!!!! lol Looks like I will just take more time and save more cash to purchase parts from the true Miata vendors.

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  5. #63
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    Paul B's 90 NA "Build"







    Gave the car a good bath this weekend.


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  7. #64
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul B View Post
    As for knockoffs, just wondering if saving some money on things like the butterfly brace and frame rails, rear subframe brace etc by getting them from the ebay brand is worth it. My integrity says support the Miata specific shops, but budget pulls me the other way.
    Personally if it were me, although it may take a bit more time, i'd save up and get the genuine article, whatever that may be. Not saying all knockoffs are bad but if budget is tight, I personally would scour through YJA and places where good quality 2nd hand genuine parts can be had for fraction of the cost

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  9. #65
    Supporting Member Hammerhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul B View Post
    thanks for the advise on the MSM mounts. Didn't know the MSM mounts were different. Sounds like exactly what this car needs as a replacement. My car only has 90k on it but 26 years old is 26 years old lol
    After watching some YouTube videos where folks have discussed going to a pair of AWR mounts, it seems like there would be too much vibration (usually around idle) for me. I opted for the 949Racing hybrid mount set up, which is an AWR mount on the passenger side (70 duro) and a MazdaComp mount (75A duro) on the driver's side. Stock mounts are 55A durometer, so they are considerably softer.

    Although the AWR mount is 70 duro, the amount of room available for the mount to move is much smaller, compared to the slightly stiffer rubber of the MazdaComp mount on the driver's side. The benefit should be less twisting of the driveline and no/fewer missed shifts.

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  11. #66
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    Paul B's 90 NA "Build"





    DIY Roadster Door bars arrived yesterday. Shipping was quick; only took 2 days.

    Door bars have been a must have part of mine but never got around to purchasing them. $259 shipped from DIY Roadster seemed like the way to go. Everything I read gave rave reviews.

    I Figured they'd work best with my Lotus seats, not be too intrusive in the cabin, provide a bit of safety and stiffen this 26 yr old car.

    Only got drivers side completely installed today. Took about hour and a half from start to finish. Air ratchet helped. Long arms helped. Jacking up back of car helped. Having Hard dog roll bar already installed helped. Genius idea to have one rear mounting bolt already attached to door bar helped. Miata floor pan was super thin and easy to drill through.

    Not enough storage to take final photo. Will undercoat and seal up the bottom and inner fender well after passenger side is done.

    Got in and out of the car a few times. Seems getting in and out isnt more difficult at all....just different. Car is already low and with lotus seats its hard enough to get out of as is. If anything the door bars help give a place to push off to get in and out. Seems like the bars may even help to not put so much abuse on the Lotus seats.

    Complete win. Cannot wait to install the other side and drive the car. Sucks it's so close to snow fall here in buffalo. Car will be getting put away soon.




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    Last edited by Paul B; 10-21-2016 at 10:42 PM.

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  13. #67
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    Well looks like I've gotten the Miata bug again. It is a bummer that motivation for the Miata has returned so late in the season here. Figured I'd write about it a little bit here.

    Family, other hobbies and a lot of overtime work got in the way this summer and I neglected the car. Barely got to drive it. Barely worked on it.

    Also, a failed NY state inspection in July gave me the blues. It was my own stupid fault. Didn't have the reverse light hooked up in the GV Panel. Horn hasn't worked in a Miata of mine in 15 years. And was running only run 1 windshield wiper for a while. Becauseracecar.

    Usually the local shop asks me how many miles are on the car and gives me a sticker. I don't purposely try to skip steps of the inspection but 26 yr old cars dont garner much attention from the inspectors here in NY. Mileage, sticker, pay cash, out the door. This particular day the shop seemed busier than normal and a lot of customer's eyes were on my car as I pulled in. Inspector actually had to pretend to do his job. Asked to see the reverse lights... nothing.... Asked for horn....nothing. Saw the wiper missing...3 strikes. Couldn't let me go. I totally understood. Not trying to risk anyone's job/career/business/livelihood. He let me go and told me to come back later with at least two wipers. I haven't gone back.

    All very simple fixes but it just bummed me out. Then it motivated me to actually fix my horn. And figure out the reverse light. And install the wiper.

    Horn was hardest part as I'm not very good with wires. I messed up the horn connector on my clock spring like an idiot when I first installed the Nardi wheel. Basically, had to cut the horn wire running up the column, extend it and wire up a momentary button. Bypassed the horn button on the wheel completely. Installed button to the left of the wheel in a blank OEM switch. (see above door bar photo for my horn button)

    Used Adam's write up (thank you) to tap into the OEM wiring and got the reverse light working. Stripped a 1/4" long section of OEM wire, and wrapped GV reverse light wire into it. Wrapped it with some electrical tape. Bing bang boom. Light works. Did it this way so it can be undone easily. will connect it permanently when the panel is painted and installed permanently.

    Also installed a 1" ebay hub spacer to get the wheel a bit closer to me.

    Ordered up the DIY roadster door bars as seen above. Still gotta install passenger side.

    Also ordered another must have Miata part that I've been putting off forever......the Miata Roadster short shift kit. Got a stock height , non-tapered bootless model with polished finish. Almost wish I got one an inch or two taller but Im sure I will love it once it comes in. either way its better than what Im using now. Hopefully it comes in time so I get to use it this year before car goes away for winter.

    Today I re-installed the OEM taillight panel. GV panel will sit until I can get it properly painted and properly installed. It never seems to fit on the edges the way it should. May even wait until I can get it grafted into the car permanently. Maybe I'll sell it. Idk.

    Glad to say that I am back in love with the Miata. Not that I didn't love it...Idk how to explain it.

    Glad to say that I have been able to acquire pieces that I have wanted for years.

    Cant wait to see what parts I acquire over winter.

    Really thinking about Blackbird Fabworx bar....hmmmmm. The way Adam's works with the Lotus seats is my deciding factor. Currently my roll bar puts the belt behind the shoulder of the seat and limits how far the seat goes back.

    Anyone interested in a HDHCHTDD with Harness Bar?

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  15. #68
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    Quick update. Seems little updates will keep me motivated.

    Got a start on passenger side door bar today. Went to set it in place, peeled back the carpet in the foot well area and saw a bunch of surface rust. That kick panel that holds the ecu was al rusty and gross. Had a hard time removing it.

    Tomorrow i will remove it completely and attempt to mount the ecu a different way until I can get a new panel down there.

    Once thats all cleaned up should be smooth sailing for the door bar install.

    I wish things went easy.


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  16. #69
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    Door bars are finally in! They look awesome and they feel awesome.

    Ended up having to cut off and ditch the ecu mount/passenger footwell panel so ill have to order a new one.




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  18. #70
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Love them, and your interior looks awesome in general!

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    Paul B (10-25-2016)

  20. #71
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    Love them, and your interior looks awesome in general!
    Thanks I appreciate that! Its coming along nicely. Few expensive upgrades looking to happen this winter before its "done".


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  21. #72
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    After a quick stint around town today I feel its necessary to give a quick review.

    All I can say is wow. These bars make a big difference. The car feels much more solid and put together. Purposely hit road imperfections and plenty of pot holes. Went out of my way to hit some train tracks. Car is so solid. This sounds similar to reviews of roll bar, door bushings and fender braces. Door bars show how flexy this old car really was even after those other upgrades.

    Seems like it helps the front sway bar out quite a bit too. Hard turn ins while entering and exiting free ways as well as tight cornering around town and slow turns in parking lots bring little to not front tire rub.

    I feel safer driving the car too. More secure.

    They work perfectly with the Elise seats. Like, too perfect. As if they were meant to be together for all time. I use the bar to help lower myself into and out of the seat and feel that ultimately the bar may help save some wear and tear on the pretty seats.

    I did the high-tech "one finger width gap" measuring technique during install so there is one finger width between door panel and door bar. Works great with the flat door panels.

  22. #73
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Hey Paul. Have you done the rear diff. rebush yet? I read you build thread a while back but my aging brain has forgotten if you mentioned.

    If not you will notice those need replacing now that you have stiffened the body. You will feel that rear move.

    I do with my cage and 70 engine mounts. But haven't got a chance to stick the torsen with the IL's in due to to this house and bad luck yet.

    Fellow braced Bro!

    And you had weight savings with those bracket removals.
    Last edited by NCGreasemonkey; 10-25-2016 at 10:34 PM. Reason: Added weight savings...
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

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  24. #74
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    Cheers !!!! Next up brace is a FM Shock tower brace.

    Yes its up in the air still if Im going to replace that passenger ECU bracket. Was able to use an existing threaded stud and 10mm and attached it up there. Thumbs up for weight savings lol

    This car as far as I know is open diff. Have not done any bushings except the sway bar brackets and front end links. Next year may go turbo with new diff and full bushings all around with new coilover setup.

  25. #75
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    If your plans are toward boost my next move would be those engine mounts. Reason...



    My '95 mounts were rests. They came out looking like that. Nothing attaching the engine to the frame. You are on a different path with your build so I would not suggest the 70Ds. But if you are going boosted the hybrid or the Mazda speed.

    Keep up the great work and hope we all get to where we want!

    Side note: Are you planning on a 'Palooza trip? Would love to shake hands with you!
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

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