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Thread: My 1996 BRG NA8C Build Thread

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  1. #226
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! benpopham's Avatar
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    Ah I think you are imagining it, surely there isn't any dirt in your engine bay

    Yes thats correct, the transmission tunnel shield above the cat, and also the one under the boot floor. They were both a little tired looking, but better now.

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  3. #227
    Supporting Member BRGNA8's Avatar
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    12/06/2017

    Refreshing rear plastic windshield
    I'll be looking to upgrade my soft top to a Robbins fabric soft top in Tan and a glass rear window but without the demisters (personal preference) in the near future but until then, my current plastic rear windshield has seen better days and was yellowing. Driving with the top up and trying to see who's behind you via the rear view mirror became next to impossible because the windshield was so hazy from the yellowing of the plastic that I couldn't make out much.

    I bought a can of VuPlex plastic cleaner and polish for about $15.00 and decided to refresh my plastic windshield until I purchase the tan soft top to replace my current one. First you will need to clean the windshield to get rid of any dirt and then once it's a nice clean surface, you just spray the VuPlex, work it in with a microfibre cloth and wipe away. Results speak for themselves really. Cheap and easy.

    Before. Notice the yellowing and hazing of the plastic.



    Another angle of the yellowing and hazing.



    VuPlex plastic cleaner and polish.



    Clean the windshield first with some glass cleaner or soapy water and rag to lift all the dirt. Then apply the VuPlex. Spray liberally across the plastic. You will need to do this on the inside as well.



    After. Clear plastic and no more yellow.



    Another angle. No more yellow.



    I can finally see what's behind me now when I have the top up.

    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 12:52 AM.
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  5. #228
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Wow that is SO MUCH BETTER! Great work Steve, thanks for sharing the details!

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  7. #229
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! etikoner's Avatar
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    I'm buying that cleaner NOW!

    My rear (plastic) window is in terrible shape

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  9. #230
    Supporting Member oldgrayleather's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BRGNA8 View Post
    for about $15.00...
    As usual, was inspired by your updates. Immediately went to Amazon only to find that it was $52.66 + shipping on this side of the pond ��

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  11. #231
    Supporting Member BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldgrayleather View Post
    As usual, was inspired by your updates. Immediately went to Amazon only to find that it was $52.66 + shipping on this side of the pond ��
    Whoa! Yeah that's way too expensive for this thing. It's not anything extraordinary to be totally honest. Any sort of plastic polish/cleaner should do the job. I knew this would work because this used on outdoor bistro plastic blinds for cafes and such. The blurb says : "Cleans and protects all types of acrylic, vinyl clears, perspex and lexan, window tint film. Applies a fine coating of wax that acts as a water barrier which also protects the surface from micro scratching. Anti-static - It repels dust and dirt. Water beading - Rain slides right off. No harmful ingredients such as abrasives, alcohol or ammonia Just spray on and wipe off with a soft cloth."

    I know that Meguiars has a product called PlastX that should do the same thing, though I've never tried it. Perhaps that may be cheaper and available in the states?
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  13. #232
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! HarryB's Avatar
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    Whoa, what a difference! Have never noticed the status of your hood, the rest of the car being gorgeous as F&*K helped with that

    If you upgrade in a glass version, you might want to consider the defroster. It looks bad, but it is really practical especially if you drive in cold and/or rainy days.

    P.S. I owe you something, but life gets on my way a LOT lately.

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  15. #233
    Supporting Member BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    Whoa, what a difference! Have never noticed the status of your hood, the rest of the car being gorgeous as F&*K helped with that

    If you upgrade in a glass version, you might want to consider the defroster. It looks bad, but it is really practical especially if you drive in cold and/or rainy days.

    P.S. I owe you something, but life gets on my way a LOT lately.
    Thanks Harry! Yeah the demisters will certainly prove useful but to be honest I've hardly ever used the demister in any of my previous cars. Also, I use a product from "Nanolex" and they have a glass sealant which I have applied on my front windshield. The sealants nanotechnology makes the rain/water simply bead and ‘slip off’. So basically, when it rains whilst you're driving, you don't even need to use the wipers. It's what I'll be also using for the rear glass windshield when I replace it with a tan soft top.

    Here's a video of it in action on my old Golf R.



    I'll be dedicating a full day to detail the MX-5 very soon and will document the process. Will be doing full paint correction with wax and polish and then will be applying the Gyeon Q2 MOHS paint protection sealant along with Gyeon Q2 antifog for the windshield as well as re-applying Gyeon Q2 View which should be the same as the Nanolex product.

    Re: the part, understandable mate! All good. Hopefully I get it soon because I'll be looking to install it in the next few weeks or so!
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  17. #234
    Supporting Member BRGNA8's Avatar
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    ENGINE & TRANSMISSION
    - Advanced Cam Timing +14 Degrees
    - Arrive Intake Pipe
    - Beatrush Radiator Cooling Panel
    - GarageStar Lightweight Alternator Pulley
    - GarageStar Lightweight Water Pump Pulley
    - Gates Racing Performance Timing Belt
    - Koyorad 36mm Hyper-V Core Aluminium Radiator
    - Mazdaspeed Ignition Leads
    - Mazdaspeed Induction Box
    - Mazdaspeed Oil Cap
    - Mazdaspeed Panel Air Filter
    - Mazdaspeed Radiator Cap (1.3 Bar)
    - MiataRoadster Short Shifter
    - NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
    - OEM Mazda Intake Manifold (Satin Black)
    - OEM Mazda Rocker Cover (Satin Black)
    - Samco Silicone Coolant Hoses
    - SARD Racing Thermostat
    - Toda Racing Lightweight Flywheel (4.5kg)
    - Toda Racing Sports Clutch + Spigot Ring


    SUSPENSION & HANDLING
    - Beatrush Rear Strut Brace
    - GarageStar Delrin Door Mounts
    - Mazdaspeed Engine Mounts
    - Mazdaspeed Front Strut Brace
    - Ohlins DFV Coilovers
    - RacingBeat Sway Bar End Links (F+R)


    WHEELS, BRAKES & TYRES
    - Dixcel Type M Brake Pads (F+R)
    - Dixcel Type SD Slotted Rotors (F+R)
    - Goodridge SS Braided Brake Lines
    - Goodridge SS Braided Clutch Line
    - H&R TRAK+ 5mm Spacers (54.1 Hubcentric)
    - Pirelli Cinturato P1 Tyres (185/60/R14)
    - RS-Watanabe Type-A (14x6.5 +4.5 Final Offset)
    - RS-Watanabe Centre Caps
    - RS-Watanabe Lug Nuts
    - RS-Watanabe Valve Stems


    EXTERIOR
    - B1 Hybrid Polarg Parkers and Tail Lamp Bulbs
    - Bosch Aerotwin Wiper Blades
    - Depo Clear Front Indicator Lamps
    - Front Number Plate Mounting Bracket
    - JDM Eunos Fog Lights
    - KG Works Chrome Washer Nozzles
    - Nielex Fuse Box Sticker
    - NoPro Washer Bottle Relocation
    - OEM Mazda Genuine Front Lip
    - Philips 4300K Crystal Vision Headlamp Bulbs
    - Raybrig Crystal Reflector Headlamps
    - Runabout M2 Mirrors
    - ZOOM Engineering Amber Side Indicators
    - ZOOM Engineering Eunos Lotus Emblem
    - ZOOM Engineering Retro Fuel Lid


    INTERIOR
    - Arrive Mahogany Wood Handbrake Handle
    - Carbing DASH Foot Rest Pedal
    - HKB Boss Kit
    - J-F Customs Tan Leather Gearshift Boot
    - J-F Customs Tan Leather Handbrake Boot
    - JASS Performance Sun Visor Plugs
    - JDM Eunos Sunglass Holder
    - JDM Eunos Chrome Door Sills
    - Joyfast Chrome Gear Knob (Super Short)
    - Joyfast Chrome Handbrake Button
    - Nakamae Cup Holder
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Belt Line Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Lower Package Tray Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Side Step Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Transmission Tunnel Trim
    - Nakamae Quilt Mat Upper Package Tray Trim
    - Nakamichi CD400 Headunit
    - Nardi Classico 360mm Wood Steering Wheel
    - Nardi Tokyo Horn Button
    - OEM Mazda 93LE Speaker Grilles
    - OEM Mazda Silver Tweeters
    - RevLimiter Gloss Black Vent Rings
    - RevLimiter Retro Window Switch
    - RevLimiter "Type MX-5" BRG Door Sill Inserts
    - RS Products Classic Retro Cluster
    - RS Products Classic Retro Switch
    - Vintage Mazda Chrome Cigarette Lighter
    - Zeromotive M2-1002 Style Pedals


    MAINTENANCE/OEM REPLACEMENT/MISC
    - Carbon Canister Delete
    - Front Tie Down Hooks Removed
    - Reconditioned Fuel Line Metal Shroud
    - Reconditioned Rear Plastic Windshield
    - Reconditioned Wiper Arms
    - OEM Mazda Camshaft Seal Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Coolant Auxiliary Hoses Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Coolant Overflow Tank Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Crankshaft Seal Replacement
    - OEM Mazda External Tensioner Belt Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Fuel Filter Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Heater Hose Grommet Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Heater Hose Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Idler Bearings Replacement
    - OEM Mazda NA6 Oil Pressure Sender Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Panasonic Battery Replacement (Replaced 28/07/2016)
    - OEM Mazda PCV Valve Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rear Deck Fuel Line Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rear Deck Fuel Pump Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rear Parcel Shelf Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Rocker Cover Gasket Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Shifter Insulation Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Soft Top Latch Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Soft Top Latch End Cap Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Soft Top Striker Plate Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Third Brake Light Gasket Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Timing Lower Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Timing Upper Cover Replacement
    - OEM Mazda Water Pump Replacement
    - Reconditioned Power Window Tracks & Bushings


    24/06/2017

    Reconditioned Power Window Tracks & Bushings
    Almost every MX-5 will suffer from the "slow window travel" syndrome at some stage of its life. This is mainly due to the window tracks getting clogged with old gunk being accumulated from the atmosphere overtime and the roller bushings either not functioning as they should due to the excess buildup of gunk or quite simply they have been broken or disintegrated completely.

    My MX-5 was showing signs of slow windows and I knew it was time that I took the doorcards off and have a closer inspection. I purchased a set of delrin door bushings because I knew that they were going to need replacing. I also got a tube of Shin-Etsu silicone grease, which is a genuine Honda part. The Shin-Etsu grease is a special type of grease that Honda supplied for people who bought the S2000 as it was mainly used for the convertible top seals and window seals. The grease keeps the seals supple and soft and it's been used by others in the MX-5 community on the window tracks with great success. The install was pretty straight forward and taking everything off wasn't too hard as there were a lot of how-to guides and tutorials both on the internet and YouTube.

    When I did take it off though, the roller bushings weren't in too bad a condition compared to others I have seen on the internet. My driver side bushing was chipped a little bit but the passenger side was fine. The real problem was the window track. There was so much build up of crap in there that it took me over an hour just to thoroughly clean everything. After some time scraping off the gunk, the window tracks were clean and I applied a generous amount of Shin-Etsu grease on the tracks so that everything was well lubricated. Installed everything back and we have perfectly functioning power windows once again.

    Take off the three bolts which hold the armrest against the doorcard.



    Pop off the door card (there should be nine clips). Once you take it off, this is what you're presented with.



    Both doorcards off.



    Take off the three 8mm bolts holding the door handle.



    Take these two 10mm bolts off next, which are the window stoppers.



    Take off these three 10mm screws holding the window to the regulator.



    Take off the remaining bolts and gently pull out the regulator with the track facing towards you.



    Close up of the regulator. You can see some buildup of gunk at the top.



    Both top rail tracks out of the door. Lots of residue which is slowing the bushing down and causing resistance. This means the motor in the regulator has added stress, more than usual to just get the window up. If this continues, it can lead to bigger problems.



    Love this stuff. Ready to clean the window tracks.



    Spray with the degreaser and let it sit for approximately 10 minutes.



    Degreaser doing it's job.



    Cleaning out the crap from the window tracks.



    Nice clean tracks.



    What's left from the original window bushing. The fact that it's still one piece and intact was surprising as I've seen others which have completely disintegrated.



    Another closeup of the problem bushing.



    Driver side bushing had a little bit chipped off, but overall it was still intact.



    T30 torx screwdriver needed to replace the bushing.



    Comparison of old bushing VS brand new delrin bushing.



    New VS old.



    New bushing installed.



    You can see the bottom part of the window has approximately 21 years worth of dirt and dust accumulated. I couldn't re-install the window without giving it a clean.



    Cleaned these up too. These are the mounts which attach to the regulator. Soaked them in hot water and soap and cleaned them up.



    Nice and clean, ready to go.



    Cleaned the regulator tracks as well.



    Applying the Shin-Etsu grease to the window tracks. Be generous with the grease.



    This eventually ended up being too much for these two tracks but I used the excess and greased up the passenger side track on the regulator.



    Apply a little bit of the grease on the A-pillar rubber channel.



    Gave the door a clean with hot soapy water to get rid of any dirt and dust before applying the plastic shield.



    Plastic shield back on. Just need to put the doorcards back on and we're done.



    Video of the faster power windows in action.

    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 12:54 AM.
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  19. #235
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Wow! Warbird's windows never moved that fast, nice! Excellent work as usual Steve!

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  21. #236
    Supporting Member BRGNA8's Avatar
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    25/06/2017

    Sunday morning drive through some B-roads, top down, gloves on, perfect clear blue skies, chasing an NSX...



    Choices : Drive the NA or drive the NA?

    Last edited by BRGNA8; 07-08-2017 at 12:56 AM.
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  23. #237
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! RustRat's Avatar
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    Even though I love your NA, 10/10 would get the NSX, haha


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  25. #238
    Supporting Member BRGNA8's Avatar
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    02/07/2017

    Crisp and sunny Sunday morning. Couple of photos taken by a friend of mine before going on a drive. I think the next free weekend I have, a full wash, clay, wax, polish and paint correction is in order...













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  27. #239
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Roadster7's Avatar
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    Drool...
    :::::::::::PROJECT MOBY
    ::::::FORZA ROSSONERI

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  29. #240
    Supporting Member BRGNA8's Avatar
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    19/07/2017

    Practice shots on the Canon 50mm L lens...

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