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Thread: LSD questions

  1. #1
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Aki yuno's Avatar
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    LSD questions

    Hey MR,

    Second question using this tool, and I have to say there are tonnes of knowledgable people here. In advance, thank you so much!!!!

    So my questions are:

    Numero uno:

    What would be better suited to everyday use and more cost effective to do? Get an LSD or a welded diff. Now I understand the design behind each of them but I was hoping to here from someone who has used each on a daily basis and would be willing to give there opinion on what would be their best choice.

    Numero dos:

    I live in the uk and trying to score decent diffs is a bit difficult. How much would I be looking for a decent LSD (used or new) in the uk, and how much for a welded diff.

    Thanks in advance.

    P.S: I apologise for my poor Spanish and poor spelling. It's half past midnight, and I'm not great at spelling at the best of times


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    Truthfully I am jealous of you! You are in the UK and us across the pond in the US have more limited pickings on MX parts. Sure the Cali guys hold on to some. But most of the east coast crushers have done just that to the older MXs. Sad day in myville.

    If I remember correctly HarryB is UK. Slampin is Greece, but he gets some good hook-ups. I don't think it is MX5forlife but there is a guy in the UK that has like five MX's. You, my friend are in the holy land!
    Last edited by NCGreasemonkey; 08-14-2016 at 07:15 PM.
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

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  4. #3
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Find a good condition Torsen.

    A welded diff is absolutely awful, and depending on the conditions, unsafe for daily use. Yes, it's dirt cheap to just weld an open diff to make it a DIY spool. What you save on not buying an actual LSD will just end up being spent on tires you will without doubt chew through.

    Don't know the cost of a Torsen across the pond, but it's usually around $500-$700 with axles here in the US (depending on the deal you find).

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  6. #4
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Slampen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamieH View Post
    Find a good condition Torsen.
    I second that.

    Check one the many breakers you got.
    ABT made some inserts, and even installed it for you as well if you supplied the open diff.

    Ebay is nice.
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-MAZDA...IAAOSw9eVXV8dw
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mx5-Mk2-Ty...QAAOSwQupXWW4n
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-MAZDA...YAAOSwgY9Xc9qc

    Or browse Yahoo Japan. I got a LSD from a '02 RS for about 100£ + shipping. Guess the total was about 300£.....

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    Aki yuno (08-15-2016)

  8. #5
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Aki yuno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCGreasemonkey View Post
    Truthfully I am jealous of you! You are in the UK and us across the pond in the US have more limited pickings on MX parts. Sure the Cali guys hold on to some. But most of the east coast crushers have done just that to the older MXs. Sad day in myville.

    If I remember correctly HarryB is UK. Slampin is Greece, but he gets some good hook-ups. I don't think it is MX5forlife but there is a guy in the UK that has like five MX's. You, my friend are in the holy land!
    We have loads over here, but there are loads that are in need of some tlc, like mine for example hahahaha I'm just trying to see what my options are, it's better to plan the steps so you can make the best of what you have


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  9. #6
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Aki yuno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slampen View Post
    I second that.

    Check one the many breakers you got.
    ABT made some inserts, and even installed it for you as well if you supplied the open diff.

    Ebay is nice.
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-MAZDA...IAAOSw9eVXV8dw
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mx5-Mk2-Ty...QAAOSwQupXWW4n
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RARE-MAZDA...YAAOSwgY9Xc9qc

    Or browse Yahoo Japan. I got a LSD from a '02 RS for about 100£ + shipping. Guess the total was about 300£.....
    I just kind ruled out yahoo Japan, purely because I thought the shipping would be horrendous. Now that you mention it though, that is not a bad idea thanks


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  10. #7
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Aki yuno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamieH View Post
    Find a good condition Torsen.

    A welded diff is absolutely awful, and depending on the conditions, unsafe for daily use. Yes, it's dirt cheap to just weld an open diff to make it a DIY spool. What you save on not buying an actual LSD will just end up being spent on tires you will without doubt chew through.

    Don't know the cost of a Torsen across the pond, but it's usually around $500-$700 with axles here in the US (depending on the deal you find).
    I was think LSD would be the general consensus but I wanted to pick people's brains, the welded diff was for drifting but I wanted to see if anyone lived with one and had an opinion to share. LSD will probably be what I go with in the end but it was just to make an informed decision that I asked the question


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  11. #8
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aki yuno View Post
    I wanted to see if anyone lived with one and had an opinion to share.
    I have had to weld a friend's diff in his Dodge truck ('07 standard cab V6 w/ 6-spd) because it was slowly destroying itself (apparently a manufacturing issue) because he didn't have the money to properly repair it. I told him to be mindful when driving in the rain and that the tires were going to be noisy around town and in parking lots. He quickly learned to try to avoid driving in the rain altogether when possible and that the tires were wearing very quickly, usable tread gone in around a few months.

    A welded diff should never be an option for a street car if it can be avoided. It's better to just be patient, save the money up, and buy the proper parts.

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  13. #9
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone RustRat's Avatar
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    Try UK pages on facebook. I've seen torsens T1 and T2 for about £200-£250 including axles.


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  15. #10
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Just to piggy back off this thread,

    Can anyone explain to me the difference between the 3.9 Torsen, 4,1 Torsen and 4.3 torsen? There also seems to be Torsen 1 and 2?

    I'm planning to replace mine which I think is an open diff to a 4.1 Torsen (sitting at the shop) as this will be a car for the weekend and the occasional spirited run, but can someone give me the pros and cons for each LSD ?

  16. #11
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    You are combining two different matters, final drive selection and differential selection.

    3.9, 4.1 and 4.3 refer to the gear ratio on your final drive (ring and pinion), and these are interchangeable. What you need/want depends on your gearbox and the use of the car. 5 speed cars had either 4.1 or 4.3, 3.9 is too tall for an N/A car. 3.9 were used only on the 6-speed gearboxes, due to the gearbox itself having different ratios, thus 3.9 was needed to compensate. If you are not interested in highways I would suggest to go with the 4.3, or even with a shortest one. FYI Miata diff rings are 7" in diameter, so there are some options out there, the most popular here coming from KIA Sportages.

    The actual diff units are known as T1 and T2. In general, T2s are more forgiving than T1s during normal driving, due to their different lockup characteristics.

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  18. #12
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Hyper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aki yuno View Post
    Hey MR,

    Second question using this tool, and I have to say there are tonnes of knowledgable people here. In advance, thank you so much!!!!

    So my questions are:

    Numero uno:

    What would be better suited to everyday use and more cost effective to do? Get an LSD or a welded diff. Now I understand the design behind each of them but I was hoping to here from someone who has used each on a daily basis and would be willing to give there opinion on what would be their best choice.

    Numero dos:

    I live in the uk and trying to score decent diffs is a bit difficult. How much would I be looking for a decent LSD (used or new) in the uk, and how much for a welded diff.

    Thanks in advance.

    P.S: I apologise for my poor Spanish and poor spelling. It's half past midnight, and I'm not great at spelling at the best of times


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Hola Amigo:

    http://solomiata.com/Drivetrain.html

  19. #13
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BRGNA8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    You are combining two different matters, final drive selection and differential selection.

    3.9, 4.1 and 4.3 refer to the gear ratio on your final drive (ring and pinion), and these are interchangeable. What you need/want depends on your gearbox and the use of the car. 5 speed cars had either 4.1 or 4.3, 3.9 is too tall for an N/A car. 3.9 were used only on the 6-speed gearboxes, due to the gearbox itself having different ratios, thus 3.9 was needed to compensate. If you are not interested in highways I would suggest to go with the 4.3, or even with a shortest one. FYI Miata diff rings are 7" in diameter, so there are some options out there, the most popular here coming from KIA Sportages.

    The actual diff units are known as T1 and T2. In general, T2s are more forgiving than T1s during normal driving, due to their different lockup characteristics.
    Ah right

    So what would you pick from a 4.1 and a 4.3 torsen for an NA8? I do drive on highways on occasion but as mentioned it will mainly be for spirited drives.

    Also, is there a T1 4.1 and 4.3 and a T2 4.1 and 4.3?

  20. #14
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    I believe we have the same gear ratios on the gearbox (1.6 EU-spec NB2). I have a 4.3 T2 installed and it is great for a little of everything. A friend had a 4.625 one from a KIA, and albeit the car seemed significantly faster (higher reduction means more torque/less RPM at the wheels), I would not do it on mine.

    In the meantime, here's something to experiment yourself a bit

    https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/gearing.php

  21. #15
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Rogue's Avatar
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    Don't forget after 2003 the LSDs were Fuji Super Junk…………..stay away from them.
    I have a 4.30 T2 in my fun car……gearing feels like a 1.6 on the freeway.
    1992 BnT, 93LE #737, 94M, 95M, 96M, 97PEP, and a few 90s

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