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  1. #136
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    I got pretty nasty cutting up my cluster for my gauges. Make sure you use something that gets into small spaces. I used some compound shears which cut great, but really made for some ugliness.
    Hey that is what i used too!
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 07-10-2018 at 10:11 AM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  2. #137
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    07-10-18:I pointed out in the night picture of the Revlimiter NB Fighter gauges that there was a dark spot between the 6/7 on the tachometer and wasn't sure exactly what was causing it.

    Well this morning fellow Miata enthusiast Rex aka Warhammer pointed out that it was probably the oem high beam indicator causing it.(if you missed the post a few spots up ) As soon as i read that i remember NOT removing the plastic tube for it....i meant to but got side tracked.(in case you missed that from the post right below Rex's )

    Decided to go ahead and check into it and sure enough that was the issue! Thanks for the keen observation Rex! If you missed it because of the slightly out of focus picture i posted yesterday here is a better pic to see the dark are around the 6/7 on the tachometer....



    ...and 15 minutes or so later....




    ...no more dark spot! Also you may have noticed that these look a little more amber than red and that is because the previous gauges had red numbers/lettering where as these are clear/white. I'm fond of red and I am sure the red 5 LED bulbs i will get from superbrightleds.com will take care of that. So glad this was an easy fix!
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  4. #138
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! HarryB's Avatar
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    Looks amazing Chad! Cannot tell if/where there's something wrong with those, albeit Adam is such a perfectionist I am sure he had found a little tiny blemish us mere mortals cannot locate.

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  6. #139
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    @HarryB: The blemishes are very minor and can really only be seen in person at certain angles. Unfortunately I didn't heed Adam's warning about over tightening the gauge screws(thought I did) and now have some light coming thru around them. Just glad I learned that on these and not a full price customized set!




    I also didn't read the instructions as well as I thought about setting the speedometer so it was about 10mph fast. No big deal and after Adam graciously spoon fed me the information I apparantly read over, I got that issue resolved in about 15 minutes or so.


    I honestly never realized how extensive and detailed Adam's aka Revlimiter's installation instructions are. Again another reason why in my honest opinion he has the best customer service, hands down out of any vendor in the miata community or elsewhere that I have experienced or heard of for that matter. I tip my hat to you sir!

    It still amazes me how such a small modification like gauges can make driving that much more enjoyable, seriously if you(general) haven't bought a set of gauges from Revlimiter you need to NOW! Take advantage of his current sell and you can thank me later(thank Adam too ), you won't regret it! http://revlimiter.net/store/
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 07-12-2018 at 10:15 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  8. #140
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    09-03-18: 115,665 miles- Decided to install the Purolator fuel filter that i have had for a few weeks now.

    Changing the external fuel filter Miata is pretty simple and plenty of detailed write ups on how to do it so won't get into details but will suggest a few things like pulling the connector for the fuel pump while idling and let it die to help reduce fuel loss, remove the gas cap and have a pan or something to catch the little bit of fuel that does come out and safety glasses is always a good idea.

    The old fuel filter didn't "look" that old....

    ...and upon draining it after removal the fuel came out clear and no apparent debris.



    As you can see, it appears as though it had been replaced not too long ago due to outward appearance, lack of gunk and the numbers on the filter were consistent with a OEM Mazda fuel filter(BP4W-13-480) replacement. This is always good to see as it would lead me to believe Misfire was taken care of.

    A few minutes later and the new one was in.


    One unexpected thing was the "quick connect" fittings on the fuel connections but thankfully a pair of pliers made quick work of them and then you just had to transfer the clips. I have heard that some manufacturers using some connections that are a real pain to disconnect with out a "specialty tool" but thankfully that wasn't the case.

    I ran a can of Seafoam thru it the last fill up, which i normally do when i first get a car and a few times a year, and will run one thru the intake manifold in the next week or so to clean up carbon, etc. on the intake side of things. Will also dose the crank case with some the next oil change. I also really like Lucas fuel injector lubricant/cleaner and buy it in a gallon as it is significantly cheaper that way and use it once a month or so.

    A lot of people don't think it works but i have always been a fan of the stuff and after seeing some videos on YouTube by projectfarm that shows what it actually does, i am a firm believer in it. That is a great channel as he test alot of different products, tools, etc. My only complaint with running the Seafoam thru the intake tract is it almost always causes a random misfire code, not a big deal but full disclosure.

    Also need to pull the spark plugs and check them as I believe i need one step colder plugs(7 right now, so 6 next) as i get a periodic hesitation that feels like a misfire..
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 09-04-2018 at 10:06 AM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  10. #141
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    09-12-18: 115,850 miles- Pulled Misfire's plugs to see how they are looking after approx. 1700 miles. Thankfully they looked good....


    ...which is also kind of disappointing as I have an occasional "miss" that I thought might be the plugs. Also checked the gap which i originally set at 0.033" but three of them were between 0.035"-0.040" so i set them back at 0.033", put some anti seize and dielectric grease one them and reinstalled.

    I figured this was a good time to treat the intake tract with this wonderful product...

    ...Seafoam!

    Love this stuff and treat every car I get with it and try to do use some in the gas tank a few times a year, once a year thru the intake tract and once a year thru the crank case(one ounce per quart of oil about 100 miles or so before an oil change).

    I never had much proof that it worked beyond the visual inspection of the intake runner UNTIL I stumbled upon a YouTube channel called Project Farm where the gentleman tested it first on a lawnmower engine and was impressed enough to try it on his farm truck and he was REALLY impressed by the outcome, see for yourself: https://youtu.be/agAWXnT4-EQ

    There is several videos on Seafoam on his channel and if you are a skeptic or want "proof" that it works i encourage you to check out the videos.

    I normally run about 6-8 ounces thru the intake tract but decided to go ahead and use a whole 16oz can this time. I used two different entry points this time, the vacuum port just behind the throttle body that goes to the purge canister and the middle vacuum port as seen here.


    Misfire started smoking after about 4 ounces of Seafoam...


    ...and progressively the smoke increased and after about 12 ounces was smoking like so...


    ...and I can normally get the motor to stall out by submerging the vacuum line but couldn't this time so had to turn the ignition off and let it hot soak for about twenty minutes with the following results...
    https://youtu.be/FSztVfurKh8

    ....yay I don't recall any of the other 20+ cars i have treated smoking that much. If i had known it was going to smoke that much i would have gone to a industrial park or similar area that wouldn't have any traffic to speak of. Misfire continued to lay down a James Bond worthy smoke screen for about a mile, my apologies to the cars that were near me for that time and would encourage any one else doing this to find a remote area.

    After the first mile it still smoked a good amount but no more than the average neglected car that goes down the road and you just shake your head at in disbelief that someone drives a car that smokes that much...so still a good bit but got onto a road where the speed limit was 60mph so it dispersed quicker at that speed. Drove a few more miles(ten minutes or so) and headed home where Misfire was still smoking slightly but will burn off the rest tomorrow.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  12. #142
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    11-18-18: I'm afraid this is just another "lame maintenance" post but hey these things need to be done to keep them on the road. Sadly this is something that has needed to be done since I picked up Misfire over 1.5yrs ago but no time like the present, right?

    I am referring to the lack of parts actually, namely the soft top latch caps and clutch pedal position switch stop and "fire wall" clutch pedal stop and I picked them up for about $14 shipped from Priority Mazda-Nissan.


    In case you can't see the part numbers too well the soft top caps are part #NA01-R1-311 and the clutch pedal stops are #B001-43-029.

    In case you are wondering where are located on the Miata, the soft top latch caps should be here...


    ...and if that is how your soft top latches look then you need the caps as it should look like so.


    What does this do for your Miata? Well if they are missing and even if you have the soft top latches adjusted in all the way you may see some light when the top is up like so...


    ...and once you replace the broken/missing soft top latch caps with new ones, said gap should be gone.


    On to the less accessible repair and that is the clutch pedal stops. There should be three total, one on the fire wall side which is the max travel stop, one for the safety neutral switch and one for the clutch pedal position sensor. Misfire only had the safety neutral stop so two stops was ordered.

    Here is where the fire wall stop should go...




    ....just between the clutch pedal and ECU on the NB2. The other two stop locations can both be seen in this pic...


    ....the safety neutral switch is about the center of the pic and the stop can be seen and the clutch pedal position sensor about the top middle of the pic. As you can see the clutch pedal is protruding thru the hole where the stop should be like so...
    ]

    ....and if the clutch pedal position switch stop is missing you can tell without looking under there because if you here a loud audible clicking noise everytime you let the clutch out, that is the switch popping thru the hole which can/will eventually cause the switch to fail prematurely. Or you may one day find little blue pieces on the driver side floor board below the pedals, this would be from the oem clutch pedal position switch stop that has disintegrated.

    You may also notice in the pic where you can see the safety neutral switch and clutch position switch some white residue around the clutch shaft at the firewall. That is white lithium grease to take care of the squeky clutch pedal so if you have the same noise that is where you can apply some lubrication and work the clutch pedal till the noise goes away, should only take a few times of pressing the clutch pedal.

    RSpeed has a great video(on Instagram) they recently made on the previously mentioned stop and they mention it can also cause/attribute to idle issues. Will report back on that as Misfire has such a issue but also has a hotside supercharger with a pre-supercharger throttle body and dummy intake manifold TB, so this is typical with such a setup especially if power cards are the tuning solution. Hopefully this coming year will be more eventful as Misfire and I recently started on a new journey....more on that in the next few days!(Instagram peeps keep it on the down low till i get proper pics with the DSLR)
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 11-18-2018 at 10:58 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  13. #143
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    11-26-18: To me safety is even more important aspect of a build than power, aesthetics etc. but sometimes safety items also improve in other ways such as aesthetics. Like lighting, I love that lighting not only makes a vehicle safer with improved visibility both for the driver and other road goers but makes it more visually appealing and makes a aging vehicle look more modern.

    I have slowly been trying to make Misfire's lighting more modern as the budget allows with LED bulbs for the rear brake lights(rear turn signal and reverse in time), LED rings for running lights for the taillights as well as LED rings for turn signals for the rear and a set of LED license plate replacement lights that should be here tomorrow.

    Seeing how the rear has been getting so much attention I felt it time to finally move to the front and finally do something about the obviously aged low beam head light bulbs. I looked into several options such as a HID setup, LED and better halogen bulbs.

    Obliviously the latter is the most cost effective while the HID setup would probably be my choice for the long term solution for the low beams, the name of the game right now is the most cost effective upgrade, so better halogen bulbs it is.

    Did a good deal of research on "premium" halogen bulbs and finally decided on these...


    .....Osram(aka Sylvania) Night Breaker Unlimited bulbs. They tested at a peak of 2240 lumens with a 3560K rating, making them approx. 29% brighter over OEM. Here is that video of the comparison of the Osram and several other bulbs:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNPB4EVr7-4

    Also here is a chart with the break down of other options in terms of brightness, etc.:
    http://bulbfacts.com/halogen-bulbs/chart/

    Misfire had the Eiko bulbs which tested at a peak of 1790 lumens and a 3425K rating so in Misfire's case an approx. 25% less light output than the Osram Night Breaker Unlimited bulbs. Since the gentleman from Bulb Facts did most of the hard work and comparing I figured some simple comparison pics of the Eiko and Osram bulbs would suffice.

    Here are the Eiko bulbs that were in Misfire(around 2.5'-3' from the garage door):


    The Osram Night Breaker Unlimited bulbs installed:


    And a shot with the driver side having the Osram and the passenger side having the Eiko:


    It is pretty easy to see the Osram's are a good deal brighter and whiter which will give better contrast and thus better visibility.

    Finally a pic of the two bulbs themselves side by side(Osram on the left, Eiko on the right):


    I haven't driven with them yet but I am confident I will be happy with the results based on what I have seen first hand and in the video above. For anyone interested these can be had on eBay or Amazon for less than $30 shipped, I think I paid $28 off eBay, so pretty cost effective in my opinion.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 11-26-2018 at 10:44 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  15. #144
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! HarryB's Avatar
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    I use the same ones and they are amazing. A good alternative is provided by Philips, Crystal Vision Xtreme or sth.

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  17. #145
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    No need to update wiring, though?
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  18. #146
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    Leaving this here for future reference (because im sure ill have to order some and some other folks too)

    Mazda Miata Top Cap part number NA01-R1-311

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  20. #147
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone MaRcOp01o's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phatmiata View Post
    Leaving this here for future reference (because im sure ill have to order some and some other folks too)

    Mazda Miata Top Cap part number NA01-R1-311
    I have a set sitting in "The Box" in the corner of my room.

  21. #148
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    I use the same ones and they are amazing. A good alternative is provided by Philips, Crystal Vision Xtreme or sth.
    Always great to hear first hand feedback, thanks, Harry! Not going to lie, got kinda of bummed out when someone on IG pointed out that Dapper Lighting is having a sell on their LED headlights for $30, normally they are $120.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    No need to update wiring, though?
    Shouldn't be necessary, Bryan, as they are supposed to draw 51watts(stock bulbs are 55watts) at the same amperage as a stock bulb(4.3amps).

    Quote Originally Posted by Phatmiata View Post
    Leaving this here for future reference (because im sure ill have to order some and some other folks too)

    Mazda Miata Top Cap part number NA01-R1-311


    Quote Originally Posted by MaRcOp01o View Post
    I have a set sitting in "The Box" in the corner of my room.
    Time to put them on.
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 11-27-2018 at 01:44 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

  22. #149
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    11-27-18: Received the VIPMOTOZ LED license plate lights,https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIAMOND-WHI...V/192721889572 , I ordered the other day after a bit of confirming fitment based on pics and fitment applications.


    Right away i knew they looked correct since I had replaced them on my previous NB1 and after pulling one off Misfire, confirmed they were identical.


    Unfortunately one of the OEM 194 incandescent bulbs burned out when removing it and it is obvious as to why...


    ...they were getting HOT! I can't tell you how many times I have seen this when replacing incandescent bulbs with LED's, another reason I like LED's since they draw less power and create less heat.

    Any who so only have side by side pics since the other incandescent bulb burned out. Here they are approximately 12 away and zoomed in so the camera would focus...




    The best improvement, IMO, is the increased light when you have the trunk open, incandescent on the left and LED on right if it isn't obvious...


    ...and both LED fixtures.


    Geez they are bright and fit perfect! Couldn't be happier with the results and the measly $9.99 shipped I paid. Even at the current $16.xx they are a bargain, IMO, as you can barely buy OEM lenses for that.


    P.S.-Thanks to Davidkrocks for making the community aware of this product!
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 11-27-2018 at 08:17 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  24. #150
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    12-01-18: Fall is here and the leaves are turning all kinds of beautiful colors, temperatures are mild here in central Texas and a change for Misfire and I has also come about as of about a month ago, what might that be? The fulfillment of a life long dream to work in a specialty shop made possible by Werks 11!


    Just like Misfire here....

    ..I have had a big goofy grin and a "sparkle in my eye'' since being given the chance to try out at the beginning of November, with a official job offer just a few days later!

    How about a little tour? Well if you come thru the door just behind Misfire you will come into the show room...



    ....where Porsche's of the shop owner, Julian Avent, and customers are kept. We also take lunch here, so a wonderful view to say the least.

    Thru the next entry way is the reception/waiting area....

    ....where customers can enjoy a cup of coffee/water, sit and watch as their "pride and joy" is cared for!

    Going thru the door to the right of the reception/waiting area is the main garage....



    ...where you will ONLY find Porsche's being worked on or waiting to be worked on. Everything from 356's(like the black 356 pictured on the lift) to modern 991's(like the black '15 GT3 pictured). They get moved around daily as space is a precious commodity in this busy "little" specialty shop.

    Continuing down the main garage area, you will find the tire station/project storage area...

    ....where tires/wheels are mounted/dismounted and balanced and future projects wait in line to be worked on. As of now the soonest another project would be taken is fall of 2019! That is how much work they have!

    Going towards the back of the shop is another area to store future projects, the shop car, a '73(IIRC) 914, known as Dirty Sanchez and some more of Julian's Porche's.


    The last inside area is the body room...


    ...kind of self explanatory. Finally we go out back where there is more parking for more future projects....


    ....like this 928....


    ...and employee's. Speaking of which, look who had been patiently waiting for my return...


    ...my "true blue", faithful companion of a Miata, Misfire. My friend I am sorry you haven't gotten much attention the past year because of my bad decisions but I PROMISE things will get better and you will finally start getting some of the attention you have rightly earned over the past year and a half of our time together.


    Okay back to Werks 11....the shop owner Julian Avent has had the shop open for over three years and this Porsche specialty shop has really taken off! He basically retired from the military, opened the shop and has put his all into this place and I am so grateful for the opportunity to be a part of it.

    Looking forward to all the knowledge they bestow upon me as well as the numerous skills I will be picking up! Here are a couple of YouTube video's about Julian and Werks 11, enjoy!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hfC82850-c

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3v-cB3GRV9o


    P.S.- Thank you to all my fellow Instagram'ers that kept this quiet till I could get some quality pics with the DSLR to post!
    Last edited by Greasemonkey2000; 12-01-2018 at 10:07 PM.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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