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  1. #106
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Neat idea, but I think I'd rather go for the HUD (on the windshield) look.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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    Greasemonkey2000 (04-13-2018)

  3. #107
    Deep-state actor Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Pretty cool idea! I had a Shift-I tach light that I molded into the upper column clamshell.
    Agent☣Orange II

    "No bueno..." Mrs. Phatmiata

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  5. #108
    MODIFY EVERYTHING MiataQuest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greasemonkey2000 View Post
    04-12-18:


    I really like the concept. If you can get another gauge cluster surround and refine the hole locations and the holes themselves it would be awesome. Maybe you can get the LED bulbs to poke out of the holes???

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  7. #109
    Deep-state actor Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    I think the hood is still workable. I’d use a Dremmel routing bit and create one continuous opening instead. Besides, the holes are already there so the job would be easier now.
    Agent☣Orange II

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  9. #110
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    Neat idea, but I think I'd rather go for the HUD (on the windshield) look.
    I hear you but those aren't cheap and just working with what I already had but I prefer this. Ideally I would have it on(in) the top of the steering wheel, like so:



    Quote Originally Posted by Agent☣Orange View Post
    Pretty cool idea! I had a Shift-I tach light that I molded into the upper column clamshell.
    Thanks!


    Quote Originally Posted by MiataQuest View Post
    I really like the concept. If you can get another gauge cluster surround and refine the hole locations and the holes themselves it would be awesome. Maybe you can get the LED bulbs to poke out of the holes???
    Appreciate it Rene, agreed. The LEDs are in a clear flexible mold with dimples above each LED.


    Quote Originally Posted by Agent☣Orange View Post
    I think the hood is still workable. I’d use a Dremmel routing bit and create one continuous opening instead. Besides, the holes are already there so the job would be easier now.
    Workable yes but my expectations and even skills are better than the current state as the holes are more straight than I wanted, I want to have them follow the gauge hood curve. I just wanted to see if it would fit in the hood and how it would look when driving and I LOVE IT!

    So version 2.0 will happen sooner than later. I will still try to clean up the holes but the spacing isn't consistent and some don't have much material between holes.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
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  10. #111
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    05-06-18: Friday morning I go out to the garage to get Misfire out of the garage and head to work only to find Misfire had an accident, again....



    ....found the puddle of coolant on the driver side so i popped the hood. Found coolant on top of the radiator panel, undertray, in the bumper mouth and looked like some on top of the radiator cap that i replaced about 6 months ago.

    Didn't have time to investigate further but yesterday when i was at work i went ahead and bought a new radiator cap hoping it was something that simple. I decided i did not want to mess with it yesterday when i got off work so took Misfire out of the garage and let him run. It didn't take but a few minutes for the real culprit to reveal itself....





    ...well not as easy as a radiator cap but the upper radiator hose is definitely the next easiest/cheapest fix. Turned off Misfire and opened the radiator cap to depressurize the system(was on less than 2 minutes). Removed the hose and found the failure....



    ....a pin hole about half way down next to the hose clamp. Also found another issue that was bound to cause a leak...



    ....so some sandpaper and a few minutes later and it was all cleaned up.



    I jumped in my wife's Dodge Dart and went to my work to pick up a new radiator hose, a Dayco C72105 to be specific and return the radiator cap i didn't need. Upon getting back home it was clear the Dayco was longer than the old hose which i was fairly confident of when i got it but too long is ok and easily fixed.



    Test fitted and just as i figured i needed to trim the radiator outlet side, about 2"+. Not sure if this is due to the aftermarket aluminum CSF radiator(which will get replaced with probably another newer CSF radiator) or what. Installed it and started up Misfire, plugged in the OBDII dongle and used the Torque app to monitor temps while watching for leaks.




    Let Misfire idle for 15 minutes or so, turned on the a/c and everything was good, no leaks! I am so grateful it was such a easy and inexpensive fix.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
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  12. #112
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone HarryB's Avatar
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    Difference in hose length might be due to the radiator position (moved rearwards) in order to allow the s/c pipes to pass to your FMIC; guess the old one has been modified too. Also, I would suspect your clamp in partially causing that failure; would replace with OEM style hose clamp

  13. #113
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    @HarryB: Ben aka concealer404 said most aftermarket hoses are long and after thinking about it, I'm pretty sure every aftermarket radiator hose I have bought I had to shorten. It doesn't appear the radiator has been moved and the TDR intercooler kit doesn't require it to be, iirc.

    As far as the hose clamp, there was one OEM clamp on the radiator side but with the new hose(obviously thicker) it would not go over the lip so I used the worm clamp on the radiator side and the fancy hose clamp I had left over from Warbird's reroute for the thermostat inlet. I'd all but guarantee the radiator hose was the original.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
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  14. #114
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone HarryB's Avatar
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    Ah, I see. I was under the impression that the TDR kit moved the radiator to make the ic piping work, but it seems I was wrong! BTW there's a special breed of fancy jubilee clamps designed not to cut through hoses, not sure how these are called. Glad you got it all resolved Chad!

  15. #115
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Disclaimer: Just another boring maintenance related post so if you desire exciting updates including JDM swag, etc. then just keep browsing because this isn't it. (Those will come eventually though)


    05-14-18, mileage- 114,328: Yesterday at work a customer came in saying they were having problems with their battery. So i went to check it out and it was a red top Optima(34R) which i informed them they seem to have a high failure rate since they were bought out.

    Checked it out and the voltage(just under 12v) and cold cranking amps(771CCA with a rating of 800CCA) was a little low so it needed to be recharged before determining if it was good/bad. They just wanted to get a new battery, even though this was under warranty.

    So i took the Optima and put it on a charger and 35 minutes later it showed over 1100CCA and that it was good. Well Misfire's battery was a used battery that looked terrible...




    ..decided to go ahead and buy the Optima since it was a used battery and could buy it for less than $40 after my employee discount. Of course the positive terminal connector decided to snap in half when i was removing it so had to buy a new one but 15 minutes later the 800CCA Optima was installed in place of the tired 320CCA used battery.




    As you can see it is just a little bit wider than the group U1 battery that was in it. Surprisingly both the length and height was very close. Since i installed it at work i didn't have what i needed to make the battery holder fit better so today i tackled that.

    The OEM battery holder is only about 5" wide...



    ...so obviously the Optima at around....


    ...7" just wasn't going to fit the OEM battery holder properly. I decided the easiest route would be to cut off the 90 degree angles. I did that and then touched it up with some black spray paint and put some foam insulation w/ adhesive backing on the bottom.



    Also decided to put the plastic spacer on the bottom of the Optima battery(since it wouldn't fit in the oem tray that was busted anyways) that they come with but this made it sit higher so i used some metal spacers to make up the difference between the body and the OEM battery holder.



    I wouldn't buy a Optima new or suggest them to anyone these days but for around $40 for one that tested good then i can't complain if i get a year or so out of it.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
    Instagram: @greasemonkey2000

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  17. #116
    MODIFY EVERYTHING MiataQuest's Avatar
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    I learned something today... I thought Optima batteries were the best you could get

  18. #117
    Deep-state actor Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Things change I guess. I'm still on my same yellow top that migrated from my Miata to my 370z to my three different Vettes and C6s are notoriously sensitive to even the slightest drop in voltage. When I need a new battery, I'm going to look for a Braille or off brand equivalent and save 20lbs. I also had the red top in my Miata for several years in the harsh, PNW winters without a problem but I can believe that bean counters have found a way to make them suck now.
    Agent☣Orange II

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  19. #118
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiataQuest View Post
    I learned something today... I thought Optima batteries were the best you could get
    My understanding is Optima went down hill after being bought out. Flyin Miata use to sell them but Keith said the failure rate got absurdly high so they stopped carrying them and recommending them.

    I have heard similar accounts from people who used to run them. It is a temporary solution that will hopefully last me 6-12 months....hopefully.
    '01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
    '97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
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