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  1. #346
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! mrpham's Avatar
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    Velocity Stacks & Airbox - http://omgpham.com/velocity-stacks-airbox-prototyping

    This is going to be a big photo dump of my latest adventures into 3D printing, both for prototyping and hopefully end usage. I purchased myself a 3D printer, Wanhao Duplicator i3, and I'll do a separate post for that soon. For now let's talk about my experiences with the intake parts I'm prototyping

    I have no real knowledge in both 3D printing/modelling and engine intake theory, I'm just learning as I go, so there will be mistakes here and there. And therefore, not entirely sure if these parts/designs will make any measurable performance gains, but it's all fun anyway!

    In my last post, I had just commissioned some prints of velocity stacks. Well I did some redesigns, and they*can now be found on thingiverse.com, again it's still all a work in progress and I'm not expert in the design theory.

    The velocity stacks are 105mm tall and designed for Silvertop AE101 throttle bodies.




    Next up was designing an airbox for the ITBs and 105mm tall stacks, I pretty much modelled it using the same external dimensions as my Pipercross filter. I did this because I know for sure that it would clear all the brake and clutch parts in the engine bay and I also wanted the ability to easily change from filter to airbox. I can and will make a better design once I have this design fitted and tested.

    For the Pipercross filter and this airbox to clear the stacks, a new mounting plate needed to be made. So I chose to print out a spacer that would be sandwiched between two laser cut plates, you can see it in the previous screenshot.



    Below*is my ideal design, will work on that soon.



    The printed spacer for the filter mounting plate, had to be printed in multiple pieces due to the limited build volume of my printer (200mm x 200mm x 180mm).



    Before doing the actual prototype print I decided to use some rubbish filament for a test print without support material, just to see how far it could go. It failed pretty quick when it got to the dome part, it recovered slightly towards the end though.




    Here you can see the rear section of the airbox being printed, tried to minimise the usage of plastic and support material. This was printed at mostly 200micron layer height and the curved sections were printed at 100micron layer height, varying the layer height like this helps reduce print time as well as reduce support material for the sections with overhang.




    Mid section being printed, by far the easiest part. Only needed support material for the mount flanges, this was printed at 280micron layer height.




    And this is the front section being printed, all printed at 280micron layer height. This part had some design modifications to improve print-ability, also to reduce plastic usage and support material.



    Since this is a prototype for test fitting, sections are glued together using*Cyanoacrylate. Final part will either be epoxied or plastic welded together, not sure yet. Or maybe just use the print as a mold for carbon fibre?




    It's amazing seeing this all come together as one piece, nearly 500mm total length. So happy!





    Continued below....

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  3. #347
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! mrpham's Avatar
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    Photo trying to show the internal clearances with stacks installed, minimum distance to walls is 25mm.




    Some lessons I learned during this entire print are that overhangs causes prints to look like crap. So I've made the following design changes to help reduce overhangs.

    1. I added a chamfer on the inside surface to reduce the overhang angles under*the "dome", this allows me to print with minimal support material, and the chamfer being only 20% solid means I use less plastic overall.
    2. The highlighted flat sections at either ends of the flange remove the overhangs and allows my printer to simply bridge that section, which my printer does very well. This makes the print look cleaner and also reduce support material.
    3. I found that printing holes on a vertical plane produces nasty overhangs and causes imperfections in and around the hole, so I opted to print only dimples instead of a through-hole. This improves the finish and I can just simply drill the holes post print anyway.






    I also modelled this catch can and printed it out for test fitting. Unfortunately, the filament ran out before it completed printing. Was still able to test fit though!




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  5. #348
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone ScratchNSniff's Avatar
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    WOW, sooooo cool!!!

  6. #349
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! mrpham's Avatar
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    Quick test fit last night


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  8. #350
    Supporting Member fwdtamiya's Avatar
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    I've been watching this all on IG. Very nice work

  9. #351
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power freedomgli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fwdtamiya View Post
    I've been watching this all on IG. Very nice work
    Same here but it's nice to see John tell the story in greater detail on the forum. So please keep posting updates! I think I might be moving from an open element air filter to a cold-air box sooner rather than later so I follow your progress with great attention and excitement.

    A friend of mine just got a FlashForge Creator Pro to support his scratch built RC model airplane hobby and he was showing me some test prints and how he's calibrating it to get the best performance. He's graciously offered to let me print objects on his machine. There are a lot of little nuances to manage in order to get the best possible performance from your 3D printer, from the geometric modeling (.stl file), the post-processing (slicer to create G Code), printer settings, and filament selection to the operating environment itself (how stable is temperature, humidity, vibration). Exciting stuff for sure!

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  11. #352
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! mrpham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freedomgli View Post
    Same here but it's nice to see John tell the story in greater detail on the forum. So please keep posting updates! I think I might be moving from an open element air filter to a cold-air box sooner rather than later so I follow your progress with great attention and excitement.

    A friend of mine just got a FlashForge Creator Pro to support his scratch built RC model airplane hobby and he was showing me some test prints and how he's calibrating it to get the best performance. He's graciously offered to let me print objects on his machine. There are a lot of little nuances to manage in order to get the best possible performance from your 3D printer, from the geometric modeling (.stl file), the post-processing (slicer to create G Code), printer settings, and filament selection to the operating environment itself (how stable is temperature, humidity, vibration). Exciting stuff for sure!
    Spot on!

    It take time to make sure your prints come out dimensionally accurate, plastics have shrink rates etc, you want circles to come our round not oval, you have to confirm the right amount of plastic comes out of the extruder. Also have to make sure your settings are tweaked for the filament and type of plastic you use. If printing with plastics that have high shrinkage, you have to make sure your printer is enclosed, let it cool down slowly and evenly, scale prints in X and Y axis to allow for material shrinkage.

    Obviously all that doesn't matter if you're just printing trinkets off thingiverse.com, but as an engineering tool it takes time to calibrate. Just like any CNC machine.

    And as you mentioned, parts need to be designed for FDM printing. It's tricky learning how to take advantage of your printer's strength and weaknesses.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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  13. #353
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! mrpham's Avatar
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    Intake Progress & ECU Brackets - http://omgpham.com/intake-progress-ecu-brackets

    Quick update on my custom intake setup. Below was the first iteration of the setup, custom airbox with 105mm long velocity stacks. Since than, I've decided to change my brake booster to a remote booster setup This basically means I'll be able to fit in 135mm long velocity stacks!



    The compact Wilwood brake master cylinder, the kit contains the standard reservoir plus a remote reservoir. I quickly modelled up a adapter plate and printed it out for prototyping.





    The redesigned velocity stack at*135mm length. A couple photos showing the printing process as well as comparisons to the 75mm and 105mm velocity stacks.




    Mounted up for some length comparisons.





    And this is what it all sounds like



    Going to 135mm length stacks meant that I needed more height on the airbox, my solution is to keep the spacer design but increase its thickness. It currently looks a little clumsy but I do have reasons for going this route. Below are photos of the first part of the spacer, roughly*checked the clearance and then printed the rest of the assembly. I designed the parts wit dove-tail joints so that the parts slide together for easy assembly.





    More photos of the spacer showing the size and the internal clearance.




    And the reason for using this spacer design rather than designing a taller air box is so that I could easily swap from airbox to Pipercross filter. That might be a stupid idea though...



    I've been meaning to do this part for awhile now, so here it is! It's my bracket design to mount the Megasquirt ECU

    Used Fusion 360 to model these and below is the first version.




    To be continued.....

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  15. #354
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! mrpham's Avatar
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    Fitment to the ECU was perfect first go, same thing when mounted to the car. I also experimented with these M4 brass threaded inserts, very happy with them so far.




    Tested a few different changes to help with print-ability and install/removal of ECU. So so happy with the final design





    And this is how it all looks mounted to the dash frame.




    I also picked up a Nakamae side pocket and Beatrush dead pedal from Car Make Corns when I was in Japan!


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  17. #355
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Paul B's Avatar
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    incredible stuff. great work as always!

  18. #356
    96-BRG BRGNA8's Avatar
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    So good man! You need to make your way back down to Sydney (or I gotta get my ass up to QLD hahaha)
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  19. #357
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! mrpham's Avatar
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    Updates soon!


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  21. #358
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! mrpham's Avatar
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    More Printing Projects - http://omgpham.com/more-printing-projects

    So continuing on from my last post, I decided to make some slight changes to my ECU mount. Stronger and easier to print now.




    (Printed in ABS plastic.)

    A common cause for ignition timing related misfires when using an aftermarket ECU is the cam sensor connector, a simple solution is to pot the sensor. I printed out a little case to neaten up the potting. I initially used a damaged factory sensor, but ended up using an alternative sensor from a Hyundai and had to redesign the case.



    (Printed in ABS plastic.)

    Testing out a different velocity stack design. Larger diameter bell-mouth and they sort of overlap on each other. These were printed in eSun carbon-fibre reinforced nylon plastic. It is fuel/oil safe and heat resistant, properties are very similar to OEM engine bay plastics (glass fibre reinforced nylon).





    My 3D printed radio delete with magnetic mounting and wireless charging for my Nexus 7 tablet! It will be running Shadow Dash for all my Megasquirt gauges*and logging.



    (Printed in ABS plastic.)

    This next project was a huge success I've always hated passing heavy gauge starter/alternator wiring through the firewall hole using a rubber grommet. So I modelled up the parts below to make a terminal bulkhead panel. Design goals were:

    • Easy to access
    • Removable cover for protection
    • Plenty of isolation to the body





    (Printed in ABS plastic.)

    Used my hydraulic lug crimper to make up the cables, the terminals in the cabin need some rubber boots too.





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  23. #359
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    photos not showing up mate?

  24. #360
    Something clever Martin's Avatar
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    I see the photos - must be you, bossman.

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