mrpham's build

[mrpham]

New amp arrived!

Doubt it makes anywhere near the power it claims, but as long as it's around 2x 20watts RMS I'll be happy.

More details tomorrow.

[mrpham]

New Amplifier - http://omgpham.com/new-amplifier

It's a Pyle PLMRMP1B, a tiny little marine amplifier. Claims to make 2x 100watts RMS, but it's more like 2x 20watts! Still sufficient for my speakers and the MX-5 though. And I'm happy with it's sound quality, not the best amp I've heard but for the size and money it's good.




The amplifier uses a STA540SAN made by STMicroelectronics. Specs confirm the power to be around 2x 20watts RMS.

I installed connectors on the little amplifier, and it also comes with a remote volume control knob. Will have to find a place to install/hide it.




Everything mounted up.

[mrpham]

Engine Rebuild Part 1 - http://omgpham.com/engine-rebuild-part-1

Hey guyyyyyyyyyyssssss!

My goal has always been to build my bottom end, forged high compression pistons, forged rods and maybe a decent over-bore. As everything with my car, I would prefer to learn and do it myself. So this rebuild is more of a refresh using stock pistons and rods, a learning exercise/practice before I attempt the forged build.

So over the last week I've been slowly pulling apart my spare block, getting it ready for the machine shop. I'm also wire brushing and prepping the block for a fresh coat of paint.

Pulled the head and sump off, and quickly checked the side-to-side clearances, crank thrust and bearing clearances.




Everything out and ready for the machine shop.

[mrpham]

Engine Rebuild Part 2 - http://omgpham.com/engine-rebuild-part-2

I got my block back from Chilton Engineering this week. They are always my first choice when it comes with engine machining work, can't recommend them enough.



David and his team carried out the following work:

• Measure and hone cylinder bores
• Deck the block
• Remove and replace oil gallery plugs
• Clean oil ways
• Supply and fit welch plugs
• Measure and cleaning of pistons
• Remove balls in crankshaft and replace with screw in plugs
• Crack detect crankshaft
• Check and linish crankshaft
• Block hot washed
• Supply of new rings and bearings

Like last time, the block was wire brushed to get any loose bits off. Fortunately, the block was acid/hot washed by the machine shop so didn't have to clean as much




I found that one can of VHT Engine Primer was enough to paint my whole block, I went with gloss black.




I also disassembled my oil pump to give it a once over and make sure everything was within tolerances.

[itskv]

Love it!

[mrpham]

Engine Rebuild Part 3 - http://omgpham.com/engine-rebuild-part-3

Update time!

After I gave the paint some time to dry, it was time to give the internals a wash down. For this I was advised to use dish washing liquid with water, once that was done everything was given a wipe with engine oil to prevent any surface oxidisation.




The crank journals were given a good clean and main bearings installed.



Before the crank can be installed, the clearances need to be checked using Plastigauge.



Once you have the clearances checked and within recommended specifications, it's time to pull it apart, clean and than re-fit using assembly lube.




In the next episode, I hope to have updates on the ring gaps and final assembly =).

[mrpham]

Engine Rebuild Part 4 - http://omgpham.com/engine-rebuild-part-4

Over the last couple of days I've been able to install the pistons back into the block =)

Because this rebuild is a learning process for me, I choose to re-use the old pistons. Everything is pretty much standard.



Stock pistons being re-used as they all measured spot on.



The oil expansion and both rail rings installed. Very easy to do , just make sure to use a lot of oil to lubricate everything.



Upper and lower rings installed, again very easy to install. Just make sure you use a ring spreading tool. The rings need to be clocked into their correct orientation too. I'll try upload some images from the service manual a bit later on.




Once rings are on, oil everything up again. Than it's time for the ring compressor to do it's thing. This part was a little nerve racking as a first time engine builder, but I'm confident it went well.



AND DONE!!! For now...

[mrpham]

A little down time while I wait for gaskets etc to arrive to complete the engine rebuild.

Circuit Breakers - http://omgpham.com/circuit-breakers

I recently ordered some blade style circuit breakers from Narva, actually got the idea from a site I visit frequently:

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html



Just installed them tonight, and I'll report back with how reliable they are. They're basically just like a regular fuses except you don't need to replace them. If a fuse blows, you just simply reset it after diagnosing the problem.

Old fuses that will be replaced.



New circuit breakers in, just waiting for the 5A one because it wasn't in stock.

[—atank—]

Very nice and clean setup^^

[mrpham]

Receives some genuine Mazda parts to finish off my bottom end build

[mrpham]

Engine Build Part 5 - http://omgpham.com/engine-build-part-5

Small updates are small.

Had a day off this Sunday so I was able to install the oil pump, rear cover and both front/rear seals. The oil pump was packed with Vaseline, apparently it's an old trick that gives the pump oil pressure on first crank.



If you plan on deleting the AC like I have, make sure you replace the long AC bracket bolt with a shorter M8x1.25 45mm bolt. It's one of the five bolts that hold the oil pump to the block! I bought mine from a local nut/bolt shop.



I've also started masking up my sump, as I'm looking into getting it powder coated. Getting quotes tomorrow

[mrpham]

http://omgpham.com/the-new-daily

So I bought myself a "daily"!

Will be good not being defected by the police (for now).

It's a 1994 EG5 with a D16Y, so SOHC VTEC 1.6L. It's got an automatic transmission, full electrics, AC, PS and sunroof. Paint isn't the greatest but the body and chassis are straight. It'll serve as my daily while the MX-5 goes under the knife again, swapping the bottom end, engine bay respray etc...

Once the MX-5 is back on the road I'll set up a "spray booth" at home, this will give me a chance to learn how to surface prep and respray on the Civic. If I get that down pat, the MX-5 will get a respray

And after all that, I'll be doing a K24 K-Swap into the Civic! So that's why I don't care about it currently being an automatic D16



Pretty isn't she?

[mrpham]

Head Unit Relocation IR Repeater - http://omgpham.com/head-unit-relocation-ir-repeater

Moshi moshi.

I decided I didn't really enjoy the tablet install, so this will now be the 3rd revision of the MX-5's audio setup.



Goal was to create an even simpler interior, might even delete the AFR gauge, by relocating the head unit into the boot/trunk. I still wanted to retain full audio controls as well as Bluetooth and USB connectivity. My old audio setup worked well but the sound wasn't the greatest, probably from the lack of pre-amp/equiliser control.

Although I planned to mount the head unit in the boot, I still wanted full control of the unit, this was achieved using an IR repeater. Normally used in home theatre setups. Simply have the repeater eye in the cabin, and the repeater transmitter in the boot with the head unit.



First thing was to make up an extension harness that goes from behind the tombstone and into the boot. I used roughly 5 meters worth, and I went with something more flexible, conductor is 38/0.15 strands. And I've just terminated the ends with connectors.




Connectors....




Pictured below is the IR receiver unit, I've mounted this just above the rear view mirror. The harness was plugged up, and you can also see the little USB power adapter that's powering the IR Repeater.




This is where the head unit will be mounted in the boot. I've made a cardboard template for that little spot and will make it out of marine plywood and covered in automotive carpeting. You can also see the IR transmitter double sided tape right in front of the head unit's IR receiver, and the right angle USB extension cable.



The completed setup, showing how much simpler it is now. The other end of the USB extension sits in between the driver and passenger seat, and the remote control has some double sided velcro to keep it easily accessible.

[— Phatmiata —]

Welcome back, you kinda disappeared for a while there.

[—tsingson—]

Looks good!