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Thread: 100,000+ Mile maintenance recommendations.

  1. #1
    Idling - Listen to it purr...
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    100,000+ Mile maintenance recommendations.

    Hope everyone is well and I have a fairly general question for you all.

    A little background on my life with Miata's, this is my third, I had a base model power nothing '93 NA and then a packaged out '95 model before my current NB2. I learned to drive in a miata along side a CR-X way back (my love of small cars runs deep lol). I've performed normal maintenance on the cars and rebuilt the front end of my first NA after a face to face confrontation with a deer but have never really delved deep into the cars in terms of preventitive maintenance.

    My NB is my daily when I'm not commuting on the Suzuki so it see's it's fair share of miles and use, also I'm currently deployed to Afghaniland and once I return the car will have sat undriven for 9 months. My parents, bless them, do start the car for me a few times per months and even picked up a hardtop that I bought. I left it with them in FL.

    Before I deployed two of my coils ate the dirt and in turn dumped a bunch of hot raw fuel into the catalytic converter, I ended up getting new coils, plugs, plug wires and a Roadstersport midpipe mated to a Mazdaspeed Miata muffler (sounds legit btw) and that issue has been solved. She has around 114,xxx on her and I have no idea if the timing belt was ever changed. I'm thinking I should at least change/have changed the timing belt, install a new valve cover gasket, flush and change my brake fluid and clutch fluid and do the same with my cooling system. I use my A/C a lot being that I'm stationed at Ft. Stewart, GA so is there anything you recommend to keep that operating properly (I doubt she'll need a recharge).

    Basically what preventative maintenance do you recommend? I have the funds to do so all at once for once so I plan to knock it all out.

    Thanks!

    EDIT: The car does see occasional Auto-X use so she does live an active lifestyle.
    Last edited by Duncan; 07-29-2017 at 02:04 PM. Reason: Added information

  2. #2
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! DarylSibcy's Avatar
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    Bushings. Bushings. Bushings. All of them. People underestimate how worn and even non-existent bushings can get in 60,000 miles. If your suspension bushings are done, the shocks and springs will wear out quicker, the wheels won't keep their alignment the same - which is bad news for both handling and even tyre wear. Don't forget engine mounts, exhaust bushings, sway bar bushings and especially window guide bushings - there's more bushings on the car than you'd think....

    Flyin' Miata sells an "Engine Rebuild" kit; all of the consumables included. All OEM parts or better. Timing belt, gaskets, thermostat, o-ring etc - but is pricey if you don't need ALL of it.

    Depending on the funds available, new wheel hubs; they'll make the car feel tighter. FM offer OEM + Blueprinted ones for racing applications. Depends if you have the funds for that, but I doubt you'd ever need new ones again.

    Changing fluids from the radiator, engine oil, gearbox and shifter oil, diff oil. It might be worth checking what state the diff itself is in too, most last roughly 60k miles, mine began to shown signs of wear at 65-70k.

    Almost everything on the car will wear out between 60-100k miles, some may hold out better than others though. My only other bit of advice would be clean, like a maniac dismantle and clean up everything.
    Last edited by DarylSibcy; 07-29-2017 at 03:53 PM.
    You want a good car. I want a good miata.

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  4. #3
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Pyr0monk3y's Avatar
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    Replace your heater hoses! You don't want them rupturing.

    If the car is handling fine, no noises, tires wear evenly, then I would stay hands off of the suspension. Check the tie rod and ball joint boots. If they are torn, check for play in the joint. If the joint is still good, buy a replacement boot, pack with grease and replace.

    If the car has seen some track time or lots of mountain roads, now might be time for a front wheel bearing to start making noise. Buy wisely, open the box in the store and check that the flange is not machined around the lug studs. Look for Timken or MOOG.



    It's a good idea to do a thorough job when you do your timing belt. You're messing with a lot of stuff to get to it, so you might as well replace everything consumable along the way. That means all hoses, gaskets, belts, bearings, seals, fluids, and filters.

    Do some searching on google for "miata timing belt list" See what other people are buying. Based on your budget and what you think your car needs, you can build your own list. I'll start you off with a list of essentials, I would never do a timing belt without doing these at the same time:

    Timing belt (obviously)
    Idler pulley
    Tensioner pulley
    Water pump
    Front main seal
    Cam seals

    Welcome and good luck
    Quote Originally Posted by tsingson View Post
    What the hell are you thinking Andy?
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  6. #4
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift JamieH's Avatar
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    To add to what has been said already, plan for unexpected costs.

    You might get in there and discover something like one of the plastic timing covers is damaged. I did, and I had to prder a replacement before I could finish.

    So just be mindful of potential unexpected costs.

    Beyond that, take plenty of pictures and take your time. A Miata timing belt isn't really a difficult job, just time consuming and some what delicate.

    Oh, and get your hands on a crankshaft tool (buy your own, make one, or borrow one). It's used to keep the engine from spinning when removing and installing the large crankshaft timing pulley bolt.

  7. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarylSibcy View Post
    Bushings. Bushings. Bushings. All of them. People underestimate how worn and even non-existent bushings can get in 60,000 miles. If your suspension bushings are done, the shocks and springs will wear out quicker, the wheels won't keep their alignment the same - which is bad news for both handling and even tyre wear. Don't forget engine mounts, exhaust bushings, sway bar bushings and especially window guide bushings - there's more bushings on the car than you'd think....

    Flyin' Miata sells an "Engine Rebuild" kit; all of the consumables included. All OEM parts or better. Timing belt, gaskets, thermostat, o-ring etc - but is pricey if you don't need ALL of it.

    Depending on the funds available, new wheel hubs; they'll make the car feel tighter. FM offer OEM + Blueprinted ones for racing applications. Depends if you have the funds for that, but I doubt you'd ever need new ones again.

    Changing fluids from the radiator, engine oil, gearbox and shifter oil, diff oil. It might be worth checking what state the diff itself is in too, most last roughly 60k miles, mine began to shown signs of wear at 65-70k.

    Almost everything on the car will wear out between 60-100k miles, some may hold out better than others though. My only other bit of advice would be clean, like a maniac dismantle and clean up everything.
    I have one new window bushing because it turned to peanut brittle, I intend to buy one for the other side as well. I was also looking into new Differential bushings. I will look into others as well but man, engine mounts are something I know need to be replaced at some point but I may have to pay a shop on that one!

    I changed the gear oil in the diff and transmission before I deployed, put maybe 8K on it. There were no shavings or bits from the Tochigi-Fuji Super, thankfully! From the research I've done, parts to rebuild these aren't exactly a thing so if it ever goes out I'll have to source a new or good used one or just swap in a Torsen.

    Thank you for the reply, bushings are now on the list!
    Last edited by Duncan; 07-31-2017 at 12:08 AM.

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pyr0monk3y View Post
    Replace your heater hoses! You don't want them rupturing.

    If the car is handling fine, no noises, tires wear evenly, then I would stay hands off of the suspension. Check the tie rod and ball joint boots. If they are torn, check for play in the joint. If the joint is still good, buy a replacement boot, pack with grease and replace.

    If the car has seen some track time or lots of mountain roads, now might be time for a front wheel bearing to start making noise. Buy wisely, open the box in the store and check that the flange is not machined around the lug studs. Look for Timken or MOOG.



    It's a good idea to do a thorough job when you do your timing belt. You're messing with a lot of stuff to get to it, so you might as well replace everything consumable along the way. That means all hoses, gaskets, belts, bearings, seals, fluids, and filters.

    Do some searching on google for "miata timing belt list" See what other people are buying. Based on your budget and what you think your car needs, you can build your own list. I'll start you off with a list of essentials, I would never do a timing belt without doing these at the same time:

    Timing belt (obviously)
    Idler pulley
    Tensioner pulley
    Water pump
    Front main seal
    Cam seals

    Welcome and good luck
    Heater hoses are now on the list! I also have Samco upper and lower radiator hoses waiting back in GA for me to install.

    The car handles like a top, so much so that I'm actually hesitant to even get the Tein Z Basis setup I've been looking into.

    I've really entertained the idea of a new water pump, probably OEM Mazda, If the old one is fine, I guess I'll just keep it as a backup.

    I also have not thought of the wheel hubs, thank you for the heads up on bad designs out there and the brand recommendations.

    Concerning the front main and cam seals, that sounds like it would be just as, if not more difficult to install than the timing belt and tensioner.

    Thank you for the input.
    Last edited by Duncan; 07-30-2017 at 11:46 PM.

  9. #7
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Duncan, welcome to the site!

    I would replace ALL the coolant hoses as well as when Andy (pyro) suggested. Your car is already 12 years old, you'll have the coolant dumped, might as well change them all. To keep your AC happy (I live in GA too), just keep the condenser clean.

    Change your fuel filter, too.

    Make certain your mid-pipe is far enough from the bottom of your fuel tank to prevent it from boiling your fuel. I've seen it happen a couple of time on the NBs with aftermarket exhausts.

    If you want to get into it, maybe consider a stock shifter rebuild kit. As for the T-F differentials, yeah, the Torsens are far more reliable. I know Ft. Stewart is a drive, but there are a number of Miata performance shops and Miata breakers (used parts dealers) here in the ATL area that can square your car away. R*speed is one of those and a site sponsor.

    http://www.rspeed.net/Default.asp

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamieH View Post
    To add to what has been said already, plan for unexpected costs.

    You might get in there and discover something like one of the plastic timing covers is damaged. I did, and I had to prder a replacement before I could finish.

    So just be mindful of potential unexpected costs.

    Beyond that, take plenty of pictures and take your time. A Miata timing belt isn't really a difficult job, just time consuming and some what delicate.

    Oh, and get your hands on a crankshaft tool (buy your own, make one, or borrow one). It's used to keep the engine from spinning when removing and installing the large crankshaft timing pulley bolt.
    Thank you, sir. I'm still unsure if I'm going to attempt a timing belt and cam seal replacement myself, but if I do (even if I don't) I'll recall this advice. I've contemplated getting several tools from flyinmiata just to make things that much easier if I do it.
    Last edited by Duncan; 08-03-2017 at 12:52 AM.

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Duncan, welcome to the site!

    I would replace ALL the coolant hoses as well as when Andy (pyro) suggested. Your car is already 12 years old, you'll have the coolant dumped, might as well change them all. To keep your AC happy (I live in GA too), just keep the condenser clean.

    Change your fuel filter, too.

    Make certain your mid-pipe is far enough from the bottom of your fuel tank to prevent it from boiling your fuel. I've seen it happen a couple of time on the NBs with aftermarket exhausts.

    If you want to get into it, maybe consider a stock shifter rebuild kit. As for the T-F differentials, yeah, the Torsens are far more reliable. I know Ft. Stewart is a drive, but there are a number of Miata performance shops and Miata breakers (used parts dealers) here in the ATL area that can square your car away. R*speed is one of those and a site sponsor.

    http://www.rspeed.net/Default.asp
    Yep, makes sense, I added the multiple small heater hoses to my list.

    I hear ya on the A/C condenser and I guess just keep it charged seeing as how the refrigerant also has lubricating properties for the seals within the connections.

    I've never heard of this boiling fuel issue? It's a Roadstersport midpipe, it fits very well, the only issue I found was the lack of tabs for the 02 sensor wiring to route/mount to like on the OEM piece, I ended up dual redundant zip-tieing it along the PPF and it worked out great and is tidy. I've put thousands of miles since the installation but once I get back and start performing maintenance, I'll double check clearances and look for any bad signs ...

    Thanks for the warm welcome, I'm really liking the site, it's users, the knowledge base and resources, good stuff indeed!

    I wasn't aware until recently that R-Speed was up there, I've talked to the GF about eventually taking a trip up towards Helen and enjoying the back roads and staying for a day or two. When I get back from deployment I will be leaving the Army and then living in and attending college in Savannah (which is perfect because I love the area and I'm still close to FL where I'm originally from) so I'm sure we'll eventually find our way up there. Also if anybody finds there way down towards Savannah, I know of a great shop called Short-Stop Garage, they run time attack and auto-x cars and also run a regular shop. I've had them work on my NB with much satisfaction.

  12. #10
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Excellent! If the boiling issue hasn't cropped up yet, then yours is fine. I did the same on my O2 wiring as well, if it works, no worries!

    A good reference for you, too, may be MX5atlanta.com. Most are around here in Atlanta, but the knowledge base and response is worth it. I may find myself out your way to drive Hutchinson's Island Raceway. Until then, stay safe!

  13. #11
    Idling - Listen to it purr...
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Excellent! If the boiling issue hasn't cropped up yet, then yours is fine. I did the same on my O2 wiring as well, if it works, no worries!

    A good reference for you, too, may be MX5atlanta.com. Most are around here in Atlanta, but the knowledge base and response is worth it. I may find myself out your way to drive Hutchinson's Island Raceway. Until then, stay safe!
    I'll check out that forum as well, thank you.

    Hutchinson Island is where I auto-x'd, they also do vintage racing on the track out there, super cool, I'd recommend the trip, not to mention Savannah itself is nice.

    Thanks!

  14. #12
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power BoBo's Avatar
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    Bushing, shocks, Alignment, and tranny fluid. After that, replace the water pump & belts. I have been out of the game for a while, but the miata is still in my head.
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