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Thread: The Long Road Back

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  1. #166
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! HarryB's Avatar
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    6" rears would be ideal according to my spreadsheet, but you may get away with your existing springs if there's enough thread left on the collars. What you need to account for (by lowering the perch) is the block height of the helper spring plus the coupler/divider flange thickness, given that the helper should be fully compressed under the car's weight.

  2. #167
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryB View Post
    6" rears would be ideal according to my spreadsheet, but you may get away with your existing springs if there's enough thread left on the collars. What you need to account for (by lowering the perch) is the block height of the helper spring plus the coupler/divider flange thickness, given that the helper should be fully compressed under the car's weight.
    My eyes started glazing, but my translation of this is:
    6" rears would be more ideal because your perches are already pretty low, and adding even the small amount of compressed helper + divider would push the perches even lower
    Am I correct? Basically: don't go with helpers unless you're willing to go to 6" springs, too.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  4. #168
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Pretty much.

  5. #169
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    For now, I'll just soldier on and give the bolts a good tightening.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  6. #170
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Honestly, Bryan, at this point for your "OEM+" model I think TEIN Flex-Z ( https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...t/61-1747.html ) or Street Advance Z ( https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...t/61-1977.html ), Street Basis Z ( https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...t/61-1978.html ) would very nice options. It depends on your budget and desired ride quality/performance. Some other options are out there as well, if you want to discuss.

  7. #171
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Honestly, the Bilstein setup (I mean, they're on MSM billies...that's pretty OEM, right?) feels great. I'm only considering helpers because I'm not sure what the answer to the current noise-related question is. I neglected to put something between the coilover sleeves and the shock, which was duuuuuuumb.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  9. #172
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    One problem I solved: lug nuts appeared to be tight, but not quite tight enough! I noticed occasionally on braking that it sounded like the unmistakable sound of the rotor moving slightly on the hub and clunking when the holes for the lugs hit the lugs themselves.

    I think there was a loss of torque between the lug nuts, the adapter, and the socket on my torque wrench, because I found that I when I went to tighten the lugs, I was able to push just a little past where the wrench clicked before it stopped moving.

    Also: I noticed when I'd had new front LCA's installed that the nut on the lower shock bolt on the driver's side was only finger tight!

    Next problem to solve: a slight "whistling" noise when I'm at about 3k RPM or above. I only notice it when the top is up. Any thoughts?
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  10. #173
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Weatherstripping not seating correctly.
    '00 SE, intercooled BRP MP62, Reverant MS2, Ohlins DFV, Konig Flatout (now X 2)
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  12. #174
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefmg View Post
    Weatherstripping not seating correctly.
    That's a thought, but it seems to be tied to the engine.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  13. #175
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Maybe you missed a ground when you swapped the subframe?

  14. #176
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Maybe you missed a ground when you swapped the subframe?
    I wonder, because it sounds VERY much like a stereo that needs a Ground Loop Isolator.

    That said, it does it whether the stereo is on or not.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  15. #177
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Went to drive the car in to work this morning, had to put it back in the garage. At idle, something is loose.

    This car is going to give me an ulcer, I swear...

    (I'm convinced it's the motor mount, but if it's not, that's even scarier)
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  16. #178
    MODIFY EVERYTHING MiataQuest's Avatar
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    This works good for me to find the exact location of a noise in the engine bay...

    Take a piece of heater hose about 3 feet long and hold it to your ear.
    Probe around with the other end to find the source of the noise.

    Be safe! The good thing is the hose can get into all kinds of unsafe locations as long as your hands are further up the hose.

  17. #179
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    phone video is helpful, too. If you haven't switched out those stiffer aftermarket engine mounts, do so.

  18. #180
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    phone video is helpful, too. If you haven't switched out those stiffer aftermarket engine mounts, do so.
    Yeah...the annoying thing is I have to buy EVERYTHING for the mounts. I was an idiot and threw out not only the rubber, but also the mounting hardware and plates.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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