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Thread: The Long Road Back

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  1. #76
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by riefdaddy View Post
    Bryan, are you saying the subframe is bent? If so, check your oil pan as the clearance is tight. I had to replace my oil pan when I replaced my subframe. Of course, I think my car had more suspension damage and less body damage. Don't worry how long things take for others. I think most people forget just how long things take, or maybe they want to sound super agile?
    Near as I can tell, the only thing that is bent aside from the A-arms are the lower front mounting tabs. Instead of ||, they're more like // slightly.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  3. #77
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    What would you guys use to bend subframe tabs?
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  4. #78
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Roadster7's Avatar
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    Pliers and a hammer?

  5. #79
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster7 View Post
    Pliers and a hammer?
    It was an honest question. I've never done this sort of thing before
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  6. #80
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I think I would insert a piece of pipe or material between the tabs (to stabilize them, hammer on them with a piece of wood as a buffer.

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  8. #81
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Roadster7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryan View Post
    It was an honest question. I've never done this sort of thing before
    I wasn't joking lol

    Using wood between the tabs and your hammer/other tool is a good suggestion.
    Last edited by Roadster7; 05-15-2018 at 12:16 PM.

  9. #82
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Probably need to buy a sledge, I'm guessing.

    I just don't want to damage or significantly weaken anything.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  10. #83
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    A 3# hammer should be more than enough. Do it while the fender is off, you will have more room.

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  12. #84
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    Big updates once I have some energy to post up
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

  13. #85
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power Roadster7's Avatar
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    Sneak peek on IG! Good work.

  14. #86
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    [Opening riff of "Jessica" starts playing]


    ON TODAY'S SHOW...




    ...Cameron, makes sparks!




    Spot Welding Begins! by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr


    ...I, point at a bracket!




    20180701_104615 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr


    ...And The Tick does its best impression, of a Harlequin VW!




    20180701_171427 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr










    HELLO, EVERYBODY, AND WELCOME!


    Now, as you are all well aware, The Tick has been laid up since its accident in August. The wife and kids were out of town, the parts had been bought, and the garage was emptied...


    ...Cue the music.


    Where Yesterday Started by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    The first major task was to remove and replace the front subframe. I'd bought a spare just in case, and as it turns out, it was needed.


    The Lower A-Arm Rear Mount was Worse Than I Thought by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    I hadn't paid close enough attention, but as you can see, the rear mount for the lower A-arm was shoved backward, kinking the subframe. As you can see in the photo below, this also made access to the bolt holding the subframe to the car almost inaccessible.


    Trouble Spot Here by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    Other signs of the accident appeared once the frame was out. The upper subframe mounts got bent, as did the upper A-arm's long bolt.


    Upper Subframe Mount Damage by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr


    Drivers Side Long Bolt was Bent by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    The used A-arms (which also came with a fully loaded spindle and knuckle) were put on the subframe (which came from an NB1...more on that later) along with the depowered rack.


    Next was the suspension. I didn't really take any pictures, but I was sad to find out that the Goodwin Racing tophats do NOT fit the opening at the shock tower on the NB2, so those are going up for sale


    Sharp-eyed observers will note that the coilover sleeves come up pretty high on the shock bodies. I cut those with a sawzall. The thrill of cutting metal with a reciprocating saw for the first time cannot be overstated. Pretty sure I was having a minor crisis.


    I also replaced the pads and rotors all around. Pretty standard fare there.




    Rears All Finished! by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    Once the suspension was done, it came time to do the dreaded replacement of the headlight panel. Cameron had done a similar job on two different cars he's owned, and I have to say, he did an amazing job!


    First, he took a slide hammer and a small sledge to the dented nose of the apron panel, then began the delicate task of drilling out the spot welds holding the headlight panel in place.


    Here we go!




    Old Headlight Panel Out by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    The Old Headlight Panel by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    It's hard to see from the picture above, but the outer part of the headlight panel holds a plate to which the fender and the bumper both attach. Therefore, the panel needs to be straight or else things are not going to look right in the end.


    Multiple test fittings were done...




    Fender Test Fit by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    ...Before Cameron started in earnest on the final attachment (click the link to see the actual video).




    Cameron Makes Sparks by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    Once that was done, the area was primed and given a temporary coat of paint. He also applied seam sealer in the OEM locations.


    Top tip: packing paper makes for useful wide-area masking material!




    It came out well!


    20180701_083238 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    All [Temporarily] Painted Up by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    (A subtle note: the outer part of the panel where the fender attaches is actually angled. If you think about it, the nose of the fender is curved pretty sharply as it meets the headlight housing)


    We called it a night after that. The next day, we started putting the car back together.

    Now, I mentioned our subframe (and several other used parts) came from an NB1. Here's where some small frustrations arose.


    First, that bracket I pointed at is used to attach the AC hoses to the subframe is not present on the NB1, so we had to cut it off of my subframe and weld it in.


    Second, the lower fender liner panel used to hide fog lights, etc. is a different shape than the NB2's part because of the differing contours of the bumper.


    Third, one thing we hadn't counted on was the fact that the new radiator took up so much room that the resonator on the NB2's intake crossover tube now no longer fits. As a temporary measure, we cut the resonator off and used Plastic Weld to bond a piece of acrylic in its place. (I have a used crossover tube on order).


    Fourth, the brace connecting the two tails of the front subframe has four bolts for both the NB1 and NB2. However, the NB2 piece also incorporates an unthreaded locator stud on each side, which you have to drill/press out if you want to reuse the brace. I've got one on order.


    Cameron did quite a job. The fender gap to the hood is almost identical to the undamaged side!




    20180701_110641 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr


    My car finally looked like a car again!




    20180701_110649 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    Got my first look at those FFD's I'd been waiting so long for:




    20180701_141028 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    We did much fettling with ride ride heights and initial toe settings, then took the car out for its maiden voyage (to Auto Zone, to pick up fasteners that were missing for the bumper and lip):


    20180701_151453 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    20180701_164204 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    20180701_164156 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    20180701_180205 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr
    20180701_171427 by Bryan Wyatt, on Flickr




    HuuuUUUUge shout-outs to Mike (chiefmg) and especially to Cameron (vteckiller2000). The car would still be up on jackstands without you guys!
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  16. #87
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! HarryB's Avatar
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    Yessss! Glad to see you got everything buttoned up! Any plans for a respray or are you gonna just enjoy the ride for now?

  17. #88
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Bryan, is that a 52mm radiator? Curious, because of the intake issue.

    I installed a CSF 41mm Twin core on my NB1 and installed an NB2 crossover with the resonator.

  18. #89
    Super Moderator Bryan's Avatar
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    It's going to be painted eventually. Unless I can get it painted in the next couple weeks, I'm waiting until after Miatas at the Gap so that my newly painted car won't be exposed to a 12hr round trip (plus driving at the event) and getting pelted with bugs.
    Quote Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
    I dont know a word you just said, but that **** sounded COOL.

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  20. #90
    Deep-state actor ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Great work! I like the Mazdaspeed front.


    "No bueno..." Mrs. Phatmiata

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