kung fu jesus (08-27-2019)
You have a clunk? I have a clunk too. Front end - driver side. I know one of the clunks on the rear passenger is due to the UCA bushing sliding backward such that the arm contacts the frame in certain conditions. I'm still trying to figure out the front driver side. It started in the past few months...but - I can't consistently make it happen. Need to get it up and start tugging at places.
I'm hoping it's something straightforward since I went ahead and replaced all the bushings about 2 years ago with OEMs. So hoping for tie rods like you or maybe it's a ball joint?
I really WANT to get the steering rack out and going urethane on those bushings, but am intimidated on pulling that out at the moment. The little ones are making me appreciate doing projects on the car that don't leave me stranded when I don't finish it in an evening (so...only interior projects these days).
Lower Ball Joints were replaced with new OEM when I did the lower control arms. At this point the only thing that hasn't been replaced would be the sway bar and steering rack bushings, along with the inner tie rods. If I bought a new set of upper arms, I'd get new bushings and ball joint included.
Also thinking HARD about going back to OEM-style motor mounts. All this vibration is getting old FAST.
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
Think I asked this before, but are you using OE swaybar endlinks?
I removed those engine mounts too, just too much NVH.
Sorry, I had missed the question
I had Supermiata endlinks, but I got rid of them when I got rid of the RB bar. One of the stock endlinks was snapped in the accident, so I got cheap aftermarket OEM-style replacements. They're going to be replaced by actual used OEM units. I'll have to try disconnecting the endlinks again and seeing if the clunk *completely* goes away.
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
kung fu jesus (08-30-2019)
I would do that first, disconnect the bar.
I did that with the RB bar and the problem seemed to go away at first. I then noted that it would NOT move freely--even when I leaned on it with my body weight!
It didn't seem to do it at first with the MSM bar back in the car, but it has gotten worse. I also notice it when turning off driveways (when one wheel moves at a time). Do the OEM bushings have to be lubed? I know some they explicitly say not to.
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
Good question on the OE bushings, I dont know.
Time to start spending money!
Priorities:
- Clutch Throwout/Pilot Bearing (possibly new clutch/FW, too)
- Upper Shock Mounts (Front)
- Bushings - Control Arms
- Figure out Audio issues - Most likely update Head Unit
- Seat covers for new-to-me NB2 cloth seats
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
kung fu jesus (03-01-2020),tsingson (03-01-2020)
Yay!
Considerations:
If you are splitting open the trans from the engine, replacing the clutch and rear main seal are definitely worth doing. Only case I wouldnt replace the clutch is if it was a low-mileage unit.
(Insulation on the underside of the trans tunnel is a good idea with the trans out.)
Upper shock mounts, OE NB style are good.
Control arms, Im a fan of buying a clean, used set and doing bushings on those to eliminate down time. Sell off the old ones.
Covers or upholstery for the seats?
Agent☣Orange (03-01-2020),Bryan (03-01-2020),tsingson (03-01-2020)
Good point. Adding the insulation is a VERY good idea.
Clutch was replaced in 2012-2013.
Already have them. Was just trying to improve my ride quality (and maybe deal with my springs unseating at droop). Still trying to figure out the stupid clunk I've had for a while.
Yep. Kind of what I was thinking. That said, probably still need to farm out putting bushings in the arms since I don't really have the tools to do the job.
Back of one of the headrests has ripped and I don't know if it can be fixed (and stressed).
Last edited by Bryan; 03-01-2020 at 02:18 PM.
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
tsingson (03-01-2020)
https://www.crainteam.com/used-Sherw...NB353220223714
If you want to start over ;)
tsingson (03-01-2020)
Thank goodness, it's an automatic.
To be truthful, a guy in the Ohio Miata Owners FB group found a Rotrex LB not far from where I grew up less than a year ago. If I'd have known that would've been available, I'd have let The Tick go in a heartbeat.
That said: my wife did say that if I decided I wanted to move on, she would be OK with it.
Originally Posted by DazedAndConfused
tsingson (03-01-2020)