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Thread: I did a thing.

  1. #436
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quick set epoxy. The new one had a crack under the right side wiper pivot.

    I used Gorilla brand super glue on the weatherstrip. It has a brush on applicator so it went on easy and worked great (cleaned the surfaces with alcohol).

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  3. #437
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    FWIW, R*Speed sells a replica cowl piece with all the little covers at a really reasonable price. If this repair doesn’t hold up, I will definitely go that route.

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  5. #438
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    That's good info; IL Motorsport has their own version as well, for us this side of the pond!

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  7. #439
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    Bigger project underway.

    PART 1:

    Rear hub replacement.

    It’s no secret the rear hub flanges will break from the stress of sticky tires and track time. You know who has two thumbs and loves to climb the curbs at Road Atlanta and Atlanta Motorsports Park? This guy.



    There’s a bunch of info about doing this job. I am replacing the hubs, bearings, retainers, seals, and studs. I noticed my left rear hub was getting squiffy when I replaced my axle a little while back. I wasn’t surprised, but I wasn’t prepared to replace it, so I left it.

    They have been getting louder and I’m in a new HPDE season including a few tracks I haven’t been on, so this is preventative maintenance and peace of mind for these activities. There are plenty of in-car videos and pictures of Miatas breaking of rear hubs at speed on track. These are definitely code brown moments, and I don’t want to suffer the embarrassment of wearing a light-colored driving suit when a little poo comes out.

    I ordered two Dorman hubs off Amazon at ~ $20/ea. I ordered Timken rear bearings, new seals, and retainers through Rockauto. All that was ~$69. The hubs also come with new axle nuts, which is nice.



    I spec’d the hubs to ensure they were the same as OEM. Other brands are dicey in this regard, I’ve read.







    No worries here. The only discrepancy I found was with the wheel studs. The Dorman hubs use undersized holes and studs. Not a big deal for daily drivers or HPDE, but because I am installing ARP studs, those listed for the OEM Miata hubs are too large. ARP rear studs for ‘94+ have a knurl thickness at .579” with the holes on the flange to be .005” smaller. OEM hub stud holes are .575”. If you press a stud that is too large for the hole, you risk introducing micro fractures and potential stress risers that can cause premature failure (see code brown moment above)

    This what I spec’d on the Dorman hubs:











    So, the ARP Miata rear studs won’t work. I could drill and ream the holes to OEM, or I could use different ARP studs. I looked at the ARP catalog and found the studs for the Mitsubishi Lancer EVO will work with the Dorman hubs. They are .25” longer than the ARP Miata studs, but still have the bullet nose. Site sponsor Goodwin Racing sells these exactly for these hubs:

    https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazd...t/61-1911.html

    I found them cheaper, and yes, they come in packs of 5 so I will have 2 extra, but this is the price one pays for that track life. ;)

    The Mitsubishi ARP studs will be arriving soon, so I prepped the hubs for them.









    I used my bench vice and a socket to make short, easy work of this.

    I inspected the other parts and was really happy with their place of manufacture and quality.















    Now, I just need to wait on the studs and move to the next steps.

    The ARP studs are worth the expense to me. I take my wheels off more than most. The extra length gives me more contact with my forged lugnuts and the bullet nose on the ends helps prevent cross-threading. They are extremely strong and cadmium-plated, very trick.


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  9. #440
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Who has two thumbs? This guy??


    No todo que es oro brilla.

  10. #441
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Cool update/maintenance. FYI, there are some guys using MR-S rear hubs which can fit with some minor modifications and are beefier.

  11. #442
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    I did a thing.

    Harry, the Sadfab hubs are really interesting, but I don’t have the time to wait on those to be machined, and I have other things to do for their cost (though they are decently priced).

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  13. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agent[emoji1282
    Orange;228589]Who has two thumbs? This guy??
    How are the jackstands holding your Corvette up doing? ;)

  14. #444
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    Well, that escalated quickly. Goddamn 3 Day Harbor Freight Sale.


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  16. #445
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    Yeah. They got me for a welder.

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  18. #446
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    I’ll send you all the shit I break with the press so you can weld it back together.

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  20. #447
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Thanks for doing the legwork on the Dorman hubs. I was about to order a set for my race car build and do exactly what you did.

    Word of advice on the HF press, replace all the critical bolts with that of known grade. A friend of mine had his come apart on him while pressing bearings in one day. Luckily no one was hurt, but parts went everywhere.

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  22. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midtenn86 View Post
    Thanks for doing the legwork on the Dorman hubs. I was about to order a set for my race car build and do exactly what you did.

    Word of advice on the HF press, replace all the critical bolts with that of known grade. A friend of mine had his come apart on him while pressing bearings in one day. Luckily no one was hurt, but parts went everywhere.
    Thanks for the nod! So much info scattered over so many different sites and media channels, just wanted to maybe help someone.

    Thanks for the HU in the HF press, too!

    FWIW, the flange holes *could* be drilled and reamed, but I felt it was unnecessary to do that with the other studs available. Why risk the new hubs to shadetree machining?

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  24. #449
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    I agree on backyard machining. I prefer to keep my bodging to non-critical areas.

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  26. #450
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    I did a thing.

    Studs arrived! Easy as pie.



    For future reference




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