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Thread: I did a thing.

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  1. #466
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Been a rough week of Miata ownership.

    The FR upper balljoint popped out of the UCA today. The car came with stout aftermarket (V8 Roadster?) units that were pressed and tack welded. The three tacks were busted and the BJ popped through.



    I took off the UCA this afternoon and got it back in with the new press. I wasn’t comfortable reinstalling the assembly without welding it, so I put a few feelers out to source a UCA locally.



    I remembered a close friend has a basic Lincoln TIG welder. I re-aligned the BJs original position, filed a bevel around the mating surfaces, cleaned the metal with acetone. A few messages later, I’m heading to my friend’s house. It’s been 15+ years since I’ve welded anything, but once I got the voltage right, I laid down several nice beads on opposing sides. There was much spattering before that. ;)

    A quick coat of paint, new grease, and a PU boot I had from an old project, it was good to go.



    Best part, because my friend is moving away next month he gave me the welder.



    I’ll look for another pair of UCAs in the near future and will probably use Supermiata UBJs. This should do for now.

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  3. #467
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Now you’ll have to get one and park it next to your new press.


    "No bueno..." Mrs. Phatmiata

  4. #468
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agent[emoji1282
    Orange;228913]Now you’ll have to get one and park it next to your new press.
    Get one what?

  5. #469
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch Jerry L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Get one what?
    A welder?

    Be sure to get a good one. I got a couple cheepies from Harbor Freight and they're ridiculous.

    I suppose being a welder for 22 years using industrial grade welders has spoiled me, but dayam man! At least 220V... the 110/120v aren't worth bothering with.
    Jerry Layman
    2010 Stormy Blue Mica PRHT
    Fremont Nebraska

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  7. #470
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Free. Reading is fundamental.

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  9. #471
    Super Moderator tsingson's Avatar
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    Almost responded with that but sometimes alcohol can impair the best of us. Corvette much?

  10. #472
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! turboedpickup's Avatar
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    xD. I thought I was misreading for a while...he's getting a free one...why get another?

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  12. #473
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Read it again with your GOOD eye, AO. ;)

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  14. #474
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    What is this, Elder Abuse Day??


    "No bueno..." Mrs. Phatmiata

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  16. #475
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Too easy, pass.

  17. #476
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    No, don’t run away because I have ninja training and will knock you the hell back to 1985 with my HurryCane.

    E5E6516F-4B0C-47A9-B2E0-6A16037B9A6B.jpg


    "No bueno..." Mrs. Phatmiata

  18. #477
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I did a thing.

    I’m not running. I wouldn’t want you to bust a hip or fall so you couldn’t get up.


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  20. #478
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I did a thing.

    Rear Hubs & Bearings Part 2

    Finally made some time to get the hubs and bearings swapped out.

    The passenger side, the axle was stuck in the old hub. Not uncommon, but it did raise a worry I would have to replace the knuckle and axle if I couldn’t get it apart.

    I wound up removing the axle from the dif, still attached to the knuckle and hub, and used a little heat from a basic propane torch and PB blaster, including a 3# hammer with a tapered punch. It wasn’t as bad as I anticipated. I hung the assembly from my bench vice to get a better position to do that.

    Because I am replacing hubs and bearings, I didn’t have to worry about getting the inner bearing race off the old hub.

    I put the bearings and the hubs in the freezer to shrink them a little an facilitate their installation. Start to finish, even with the sticky axle, the passenger side took two hours.



    I left the brake dust shields off because I didn’t deem it was much help to reinstall them for my purposes.



    The sticky axle. This received a healthy coating of anti-seize before reinstallation.



    Pressing out the old bearing.



    This wheel bearing had become VERY loud the past week, it was dying fast. It’s final contribution was to help press in its replacement.



    The sleeve of the knuckle was very clean and corrosion/defect free.



    New bearing pressed in. I didn’t take pictures because I was trying to get the ice cold one in the knuckle before it had a chance to expand. Freezing it definitely helped.



    With the bearing closer to room temperature, I took the hub out of the freezer to press it through the new bearing. I used a 36mm socket to support the bearing’s inner race.



    Note the frost on the hub and studs.



    New axle seal.



    All done! Applied anti-seize to the splines of the new hub too.



    Anti-seize all the things!



    The sticky axle slid right in and I captured it with the new axle nut until I installed the assembly back in the car.



    Hung the knuckle, popped the axle back in the dif, reinstalled the rotor and caliper.



    Wheel installed, car lowered so as to torque the axle nut to 235 ft/lbs



    Punched the axle nut with an angled chisel to capture it. Complete!

    Time for the driver side, the REAALLY loud bearing. This one was easy as pie because I installed a new axle a few months ago. A few light taps with a regular hammer freed it from the old hub.



    Yeah, never too much anti-seize. ;p



    Same process as before, this time a lot smoother.



    The lower left stud was probably nicked from being moved around the work area, it wasn’t threading as smoothly as it should. A buddy dropped by with his tap and die set to correct it. No big deal.



    We chased the forged aluminum lug nuts while we were at it.



    Mission complete! It all took 4 hours. Much shorter than anticipated! These cars are loud, but the new hubs and bearings are sooooo_much quieter!

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  22. #479
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I did a thing.

    With the rear hubs complete, some pressing maintenance looms. My A/C system stopped working correctly last autumn. Yeah, laugh if you like, but Atlanta summers are as hot and steamy as Agent Orange’s perineum the day after Taco Tuesday. *hurp* (I vomited in my throat a little typing that).

    I am pretty familiar with the A/C systems on Miatas, I reinstalled, updated, and restored the unit on my ‘92 with one from a ‘97.

    I suspect a leak that worsened because I was ‘topping off’ the system with more refrigerant last summer with increasing frequency until it wouldn’t hold the charge. The pressure sensor is operational and shuts the system down when there isn’t enough juice in there in order to save the compressor. I would bet it’s the condenser or a seal.

    I have essentially 2 or 3 weeks before the weather here starts in, so I ordered some stuff to get this rolling:

    Seals
    Pressure switch
    Parallel flow condenser
    Drier
    Schrader valve core replacements
    Schrader valve core tool
    Evaporator expansion valve

    If it happens to NOT be any of these, I will source the parts from a local breaker. This would be hi/low aluminum lines, evaporator core, compressor lines.

    The pressure switch is one of these items that should be considered for replacement because you can’t change it out while the system is pressurized. The drier is a no brainer because it should be done every time the system is opened. Same for the Schrade valves. I have witnessed a few charging repairs negated by sticky valves. This would be like filling your tire, having the air valve hang open, releasing the tire’s contents.

    The seals I will change out and use the Nylog sealant/conditioner I used in my NA system with great success. The expansion valve is to eliminate a potential failure, since this system is now 20 years old.

    The condenser is sort of the experiment here. The NB1 has a serpentine condenser, so using the more efficient parallel flow design *should* produce a better result in terms of colder, more consistent air. This would be great, if it does as I read about the design.

    The labor should take an afternoon. From there, I will either buy/rent a vacuum pump and HVAC manifold set to test the system, then introduce new oil and refrigerant. Otherwise, I’ll take the rebuilt system to a pro and have it charged.

    Parts so far are at $150, so I think it’s reasonable this will be ~$250-300 altogether if it goes as planned.

    Stay tuned for this repair soon!

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  24. #480
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! HarryB's Avatar
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    Interesting, as I know nothing about automotive HVAC systems. Care to share part numbers?

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