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Thread: I did a thing.

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  1. #151
    Administrator Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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  2. #152
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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  4. #153
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Paul B's Avatar
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    Love this look. Definitely think red inserts in the door cards would be amazing.


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  6. #154
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I would like to install the MSM doorcards, or NB2 cards with custom-colored inserts. I studied up on swapping in the cards, I just want to be sure to get the interior door latches and cables versus the NB1 rods. If I change the seats, I may also do something custom, sketch up some ideas and work with a local upholsterer.

    It was a blur of a week, working on this in my spare time, but working quickly and efficiently. It's not completed, but the 'heavy lifting' is done for now.

    I have Xidas from my NA I will be installing, but I want to be sure the current tire/wheel combo will fit. Because they are 15x8 +25 with 225/50-15 tires, I don't want them to rub. The front fenders were rolled, but the rears were not. A buddy local to me has an Eastwood roller, so I may have to that at the same time.

    The red helps me choose the direction easier. I am going to paint the hardtop to match the exterior, but I am considering painting the interior satin red. We will see. I need to get the silver-trimmed eyeball vents from Alex, and a couple of small pieces. I will paint the seatbelt pillars black to hide the white showing through from the back.

    Lots to do to get this where I can get it on the track, so that's a lot of the focus.

    BTW, silver material I used for NVH and heat insulation is this:

    IMG_8499.jpg

    Frost King .125" Foam Pipe Insulation

    I bought it at my local home improvement store (Lowes). It was $19/roll and I didn't use a full roll for what I did. It's a peel and stick application, very much like Dynamat, but thinner and lighter, a bit less dense. Easy to cut with scissors, but wear gloves because that foil on top can/will slice you fairly easily. It works for my application. I put a few pieces on the doors, under the gauge hood, the rear bulkhead, the floor and the tunnel. It's not my primary heat insulation, but enough to breakup some of the noise, a little bit of the heat.

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  8. #155
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiataQuest View Post
    Does this advice also apply to the NA ?

    I bought that black OEM carpet from Phat.
    I may install that carpeting when I install a roll-bar next summer.
    Thanks
    Yes the same rule applies to the NA Miata, I made a razor cut where that meets so that OEM NA carpet will slide in and out, youll likey have to do the same on your carpet that is inside the car now, unless you feel like taking all the stuff out just to access 1 bolt/screw.

  9. #156
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phatmiata View Post
    Yes the same rule applies to the NA Miata, I made a razor cut where that meets so that OEM NA carpet will slide in and out, youll likey have to do the same on your carpet that is inside the car now, unless you feel like taking all the stuff out just to access 1 bolt/screw.

    True. The NA6 is a lot easier to remove (comparatively) to an NB. It's in my build thread for the NA. When I did it to that car, it allowed me to do similar things I did in this thread, but more. I know a lot of people are apprehensive to do it, but with your engine swap it would afford you opportunities to do a few things to consider:

    change/clean you evaporator/valve to r134a
    clean your HVAC tubes out
    paint your crashbar
    clean up your underdash wiring
    change the weatherstrip on the leading edge of the dash that rests on the firewall
    add NVH preventatives
    fix broken clips, bosses, further eliminating rattles
    clean the 25 years of dirt and crud from under the dash
    clean out the blower motor
    SRS system removal

    I documented much of it here:

    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....-History/page4

    Other stuff to consider is upgrading your sound system, with or without pulling the dash. have the carpet and seats out really makes it easier to re-do, or lay in, a cleaner installation.
    Last edited by kung fu jesus; 12-04-2017 at 02:12 PM.

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  11. #157
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    MiataQuest, be VERY careful when removing the NA6 dashes, the clips are pretty brittle and tend to break.



    KFC, Keep up the great stuff with your NB Roadster Refresh !! You are working at great speed my friend!

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  13. #158
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    The key to removing the NA6 dash, or really any Miata dash, is to take your time. When it is unbolted and the harness disconnected, just sit on the trans tunnel and roll it backwards towards you. Once you clear the rear view mirror, you can scoop it up and step out of the car. The crashbar holds it together.

  14. #159
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! RustRat's Avatar
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    It helps to have the gear stick in fourth gear. Also let the steering column drop on the floor. Wiggle it a bit to loosen it up, and don’t forget to unplug the wiring on the left side (2 plugs iirc) and one on the right. I’ve swapped an Nb2 and an NA6 dash in my old NA8.

    KFJ, if I may ask, do you have any squeaking and rattling coming from the dash? Even though I had replaced the foam in the NA6 dash, when I tightened it down, it started to squeak on small bumps. That didn’t happen with the NB2 dash though. I want to remove my dash, clean it, and do a red LE swap in my car (almost have all the parts) but I fear that if I start fiddling with the dash, I may have some noises I didn’t have before.


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  15. #160
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RustRat View Post
    It helps to have the gear stick in fourth gear. Also let the steering column drop on the floor. Wiggle it a bit to loosen it up, and don’t forget to unplug the wiring on the left side (2 plugs iirc) and one on the right. I’ve swapped an Nb2 and an NA6 dash in my old NA8.

    KFJ, if I may ask, do you have any squeaking and rattling coming from the dash? Even though I had replaced the foam in the NA6 dash, when I tightened it down, it started to squeak on small bumps. That didn’t happen with the NB2 dash though. I want to remove my dash, clean it, and do a red LE swap in my car (almost have all the parts) but I fear that if I start fiddling with the dash, I may have some noises I didn’t have before.


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    No. When I did my NA6 dash, I did a few enhancements to stop the squeaks and rattles. Off the top of my head, I added small squares of sound mat to break up large, flat surfaces under the dash. I used new zipties for the harness, and I used tiny squares of thin felt/velvet on the metal pinch-type fastener (like the ones that hold the gauge hood to the dash). When I was doing that, I would occasionally pick up the dash assembly by the crash bar and shake it vigorously, like it would if I hit a pot hole or bumps. It helped me find what was rattling or squeaking. Honestly, a lot of my squeaks went away long before all this when I added the doorbars, too.

    The weatherstrip was something I found at Lowes or Home Depot. It was listed for automotive use, and was pretty good, much better than the flimsy foam from the factory.

    I also put some small squares of self-adhesive foam near places where parts might rub together, like HVAC tubes and the ends of the crashbar where they are closest to the sides of the dashboard.

    ***edit*** this is the weatherstrip I used at the front of the dash.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-10-ft-B...rstrip/1038917

    I cleaned the old strip off and wiped the surface the new strip went onto with acetone before applying. It stuck really well and didn't move.
    Last edited by kung fu jesus; 12-04-2017 at 02:57 PM.

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  17. #161
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post

    I was also driving around to get my fuel level lower. I could smell a little fuel in the trunk and I suspected the filler hose may be leaking because of corrosion.

    My suspicion was confirmed when I removed the tube. I had already ordered a new one and I went about cleaning off the corrosion with some emory cloth:







    A little paint:





    And you can see how the corrosion was lifting the old hose:





    New hose in place, and clamps tightened!



    Today was a good day!
    (I didn’t have to use my AK.)
    I'm happy to report that I filled my tank yesterday and the past two days driving around town have produced ZERO fuel smell.

    The tank seal and new filler hose solved the issue.

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  19. #162
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch CollinMB's Avatar
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    this thing is going to be like new (but better) by the time you're done.

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