I laughed. Sorry
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I laughed. Sorry
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Martin (02-10-2018)
Upper BJ's were replaced with everything else. Looks like steering rack bushings will be the first direction. PU or Delrin is $25 vs $55. But...I'm not looking forward to pressing out more bushings. The suspension overhaul was enough to make me never want to see a bushing again
Took a break from my car to help a friend swap control arms (w/ PU bushings), my previous JICs, 5x Racing bumpsteer spacers, a new slave cylinder, and a belly tray. Only a few issues, but were all pretty good with these cars, cranked it out. Hes super excited for the start of HPDE season to put it to the test!
Lots of jokes, good times. No one is immune to slanderous insults at these gatherings.
Agent☣Orange (02-10-2018),Greasemonkey2000 (02-11-2018),HarryB (02-11-2018),JamieH (02-12-2018),JonB (02-16-2018),Martin (02-10-2018),MiataQuest (02-11-2018),Phatmiata (02-12-2018),Slampen (02-11-2018),tsingson (02-11-2018)
Hey, I wanted to add a note about 5X Racing bumpsteer spacers. Ive done this twice now, its pretty simple, but there are a couple tricks to make install easier.
The two spacers are identical. The round hole go towards the front of the car, the oblong towards the back. Its easiest to unbolt the rack from the subframe completely, lift up the rack and slide the spacers in.
If you have AC, the hardest bolt will be the rear bolt on the left side of the car. Start the front two bolts then the left rear bolt. There is no easy way to reach it, but a socket can be placed on it to get it started by hand.
Heres the rub, learned this last night, if you have a hard time starting this bolt, there is a good chance your engine may be pressing on the rack. Why? Tired engine mounts. Solution? Put a block of wood on the oil pan and raise the engine with a floor jack. In this instance, the engine raised 1-2, and it made aligning that tricky bolt a LOT easier. 3 of us struggled to get that bolt in there until that epiphany hit us. The spacers do work to alleviate bump steer and I think are worth it if your lowered car tends to walk around over irregular surfaces. Good luck!
Greasemonkey2000 (02-11-2018),JamieH (02-12-2018),JonB (02-16-2018),MiataQuest (02-11-2018)
I don't understand why they don't make the rack spacers for the NB
'01 NB2 aka MisF1re: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....218#post207218
'97 M aka Warbird, gone but not forgotten: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....B&goto=newpost
Instagram: @greasemonkey2000
Agent☣Orange (02-11-2018)
Should not be that hard to make some. Not sure if needed though, or how much is necessary. I believe I have the stock NB hardpoint coordinates somewhere, I can model the suspension geometry & check when I have some spare time.
I remember one side had a jog in the spacer, but is was mostly folded/bent sheet stock aluminum (9-13mm Th?)
Dang, I haven't thought about Joel or Ony for a long time. Tell Joel I said Hello. You're skinny Steve.
93' LE - FM II and more
253k miles
Smile
Been away for a while and just now really checking things out, amazing job on this build. This will be like driving an almost new car with all you have done to it. And of course I love the red carpet. Just a thought- doorcards from a Mazdaspeed with the red inserts would be a nice touch. Have you sold the Mariner yet?
The NB has been fantastic so far. It's quieter, more comfortable, much easier to live with day-to-day. The Xidas on this less-aggressive build feel elegant and extremely refined. I am still doing stuff to it to meet my levels for a HPDE, more is coming very soon!
The NB2 door cards are a consideration, but I want them to work correctly, so I am looking at swapping more hardware than just the cards to make them so. I started a separate thread about that here:
http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....669#post215669
The Mariner is sold! It went to a younger professional who was looking to do more HPDE in a reliable car without having to do a build of his own. It's been about a month and I have heard he loves it.
TNRooster3 (02-12-2018)
Yeah, it's subtle, but it's a big reason the rods have to be modified and the pulls don't interchange so well. I'm sure it's not a "difficult" job, but it's in a confined space, so it will be a little fiddly.
It appears as thought the latching mechanism is the same, but the linkage arms are different (to accept cables or rods). the size and mounting points look similar, even the linkages to the outer door handle and locks.
TNRooster3 (02-12-2018)