Would be months of work for a mere mortal, not for Steven though! Really man, you are making my to do list even longer..
Would be months of work for a mere mortal, not for Steven though! Really man, you are making my to do list even longer..
kung fu jesus (11-30-2017),tsingson (12-01-2017)
Thank you, gentlemen! I’m humbled to earn praise from you.
This is just broad strokes that would normally come later, but after many years with the NA, and a couple with my previous NBs, I wanted to take a different approach and knock out one of the biggest changes right away.
The carpet hasn’t been easy, but not really difficult, it’s just a lot of fitting, cutting hole for bolts, screws, stuff you sort of take for granted with an OEM set. I really like where it’s going and the ideas for the pieces to add later are coming easier going this route.
It’s sort of the same approach I use when I design spaces in my home or for clients; you start with the large surfaces first (carpet, paint), layer in furniture (seats, door panels, dash, console), then accentuate with accessories and function (inserts, instrumentation, details).
I’ve done cars the opposite way at times and it’s harder to get it all to work well cohesively that way.
Agent☣Orange (11-30-2017),Demon I Am (12-01-2017),HarryB (12-01-2017),MiataQuest (12-01-2017),tsingson (12-01-2017)
The heater core arrived early!! *SQUEEEEEEEEEE!*
This is going to be a post for documentation.
I ordered a "UAC" branded heater core from partsgeek.com for ~$42. I had read horrible reviews about the Spectra Premium branded units not fitting, and I had tried to replace the one on my NA with their unit for that car and it didn't work either. I took a chance and so far, so good!
The UAC unit looks just like stock, fits like stock and the aluminum tubes fit great.
IMG_8536.jpg
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This replacement doesn't come with the o-rings or replacement v-band clamps, but I was careful removing mine (the clamps and tubes), and they are good to reuse.
I measured the o-rings for the heater core, because I couldn't find any part numbers online. They are 16.5mm ID, .650" I know you can't really go off the old o-ring size because of deformation after being in place for many years and cycles. I looked up the standard o-ring sizes, both SAE and Japanese standard. You are going to have a MUCH easier time finding the SAE, but FYI the closest Japanese size was SS165. I am unsure if that would be thick enough though. The off-the-shelf, standard SAE o-ring size I'm using is #016. That's 5/8" ID (.625"), x 3/4" (.75"), x 1/16" Thick. My measurements with my digital calipers show that ID is a *little* smaller than stock, but it should work. I had the next SAE oring larger and smaller on hand to test, and the 016 is the best fit.
Sometimes, you can go to a NAPA or O'Reilly and ask to see their box of National O-rings. Couldn't find that immediately near me, so I ordered them this morning, and they will be available this afternoon. I literally called, asked for "National part number 016, orings (two)" and the clerk knew what they were.
Hoping to get the heater core all buttoned up tonight, should be able to install the dash tomorrow!
Agent☣Orange (12-02-2017),Greasemonkey2000 (02-04-2018),HarryB (12-01-2017),JamieH (12-01-2017),MiataQuest (12-01-2017),newoldm (02-03-2020),Phatmiata (12-01-2017),tsingson (12-01-2017)
I *understand* why people try to replace the heater core without removing the dash, but this preventative maintenance while it's out is worth the extra expense. It must be a PITA to do this job laying on your back in the footwell.
Anyways...$1.29 for a package of 10 #016 o-rings and I'm making progress!
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They fit very well and I was still able to get the v-band clamps on and snug the connections:
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Have make sure both flanges of the connections are captured by the clamps all the way around. It was easier to get the clamps together by squeezing the tabs together with a pair of needle nose pliers in one hand, then start the screws that hold the clamps. Clock the tabs to their locations and re-insert the assembly into the HVAC box.
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gently adjust the tube to their locations in the hold-downs, install the hold-downs, tighten the v-band clamps. Finally place the plastic cover over the core, and re-install the two screws that hold it to the HVAC box:
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This is how it is oriented in the car, if you are sitting in the left seat (behind the dash of course):
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The aluminum tubes go up through the grommets in the firewall, that is what the heater hoses to the engine and head connect to. I should reiterate, I NEVER try to save those hoses. To me, they are one-time use. Trying to save them versus potentially destroying/crushing those aluminum (brass in the NAs?) isn't worth the risk. I slice them off length-wise with a razor or knife and peel them off the ends. The hoses were $25 on Amazon for the pair. Those arrived yesterday.
Agent☣Orange (12-02-2017),Greasemonkey2000 (02-04-2018),JamieH (12-01-2017),MiataQuest (12-01-2017),Rogue (12-02-2017),tsingson (12-01-2017)
After work, I headed out to the garage and knocked this out in about 90 minutes.
The new radio comes tomorrow, I gotta have Bluetooth and variable color display. Oh, and handsfree calling. Nothing fancy, but I’ll likely prep it for a compact amp install further down the road.
After the radio, it’s all just reinstalling trim and cleanup. I’m pretty stoked how it looks!
These NB dashes are considerably larger and heavier than the one in my NA6. It was a *little* cumbersome solo, but not too bad. It lined up right on the first try.
Greasemonkey2000 (02-04-2018),HarryB (12-02-2017),JamieH (12-01-2017),MiataQuest (12-02-2017),RotorNutFD3S (12-02-2017),tsingson (12-01-2017)
Wow! that's looking really good. I have a white 99 with tan interior and i was ok with it untill i saw yours!
kung fu jesus (12-01-2017),tsingson (12-01-2017)
I loathe the tan in the Miatas. It looks alright with a few colors, but on the white and silver cars? No. Ask any Miata breaker how much tan interior stuff they have sitting around and most will roll their eyes, or sigh, or maybe tell you how much of it they discarded.
I finished replacing the heater hoses. Man, I forgot how stubborn they are to remove on an NB. Eh, got it done, but lost some coolant.
Progress is moving forward, so tomorrow will be good!
fwdtamiya (12-03-2017),Greasemonkey2000 (02-04-2018),JamieH (12-01-2017),tsingson (12-01-2017)
Is it possible to replace the carpet without taking out the dash?
Yeah, but you will eat a lot more time trying to get it in and trying to get it to lay flat and even. Some people slice the carpet from the shifter to the firewall, then find some way to join it behind the HVAC box (Velcro, zipties, hopes and dreams, etc.). Pulling the dash isn’t for a complete novice, but it isn’t terribly difficult either.
If you have an OEM carpet, you could get away with loosening the HVAC box, remove the 9 fasterners on the dash. One person on each side of the dash gently lifting with one guy feeding the carpet it from the center might work, but for aftermarket carpet, you need to get some pretty accurate cuts from the existing carpet as a template before installing it.
Last edited by kung fu jesus; 12-01-2017 at 09:45 PM.
tsingson (12-01-2017)
Further thoughts on above:
This is the first time I removed an NB interior, I’ve done it on my NA a few times. I can’t stress enough how much you have to just bag and tag everything. It’s not that time consuming and it saves a ton of hassle. I take a lot of photos with my phone for my own reference, too. The main specialized tools I used were an panel fastener tool
A cheap adjustable heat gun
And a utility knife. Other than that, just your average tool set; screw drivers, picks, scissors, metric sockets, and needle nose pliers. I have some heavy duty 3m upholstery aerosol adhesive from other projects. It’s just taking time and double checking so I didn’t cut too much.
The heater core was just common sense. You don’t have to do it, but it makes sense to do so if you do decide to pull the dash. The only other items I had to buy were black fasteners to replace my tan ones (10-15 dollars).
I would estimate I have about 30-40 hours into it, but I do a LOT of extra side work, because “I’m in there, might as well do X,Y, and Z”. That’s just how I think and operate.
A straight interior swap, if say you went from OEM tan to OEM black, would be a weekend job, maybe 10 hours? If you had help, maybe faster.
Thanks for the advice . It might be worth it one day if i need a new heater core . i'm a novice ( miata ) mechanic at best, so i wouldn't be too afraid to take it apart!
Gotta break a few eggs to make an omelet.
These cars are easy to work on. Comparing interior work of an NB to my wife’s BMW, it’s a breeze.
Brings back a lot of memories for me. I think I had my interior apart longer than installed.
Oh, for the previous question about pulling out the carpet with the dash in place: there is a plastic snap directly below the heater core that holds the carpet in place. You won’t see it.
No todo que es oro brilla.
Demon I Am (12-04-2017),kung fu jesus (12-02-2017)
Steven says..."If you have an OEM carpet, you could get away with loosening the HVAC box, remove the 9 fasteners on the dash. One person on each side of the dash gently lifting with one guy feeding the carpet it from the center might work, but for aftermarket carpet, you need to get some pretty accurate cuts from the existing carpet as a template before installing it."
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Does this advice also apply to the NA ?
I bought that black OEM carpet from Phat.
I may install that carpeting when I install a roll-bar next summer.
Thanks
Last edited by MiataQuest; 12-02-2017 at 10:21 AM.
Return of the Manticore build: http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....-4-engine-swap
What year is your car again? I can’t see it on my phone.