What did you buy/do to your NB? 2018 edition

[— kung fu jesus —]

After the heat shield installation, I went out to grab a bite with my wife. The little we drove, I noticed a discernible lower temp on the tunnel, but I’ll drive more later.

After we returned, I rested, became bored, and decided to get a jump on the other stuff.

I checked the rear alignment, adjusted torque on the UCAs and upright, lube.





I’ll neutralize the preload on the RSB, lube those bushings, then move to the front in tomorrow.

[—Bryan—]

No, the new floor jack lifts the car a LOT higher than the old one. Only lifted the passenger side, I was at the max height for my jackstands, so maybe 22-24” high?

What'cha got?

Also: if you want to help me re-put the front end of The Tick together, I'm all about it

[— kung fu jesus —]

It’s a steel 3 ton floor jack I bought on sale after Father’s Day through Home Depot. It was $99 + free ship. It’s HEAVY, but feels more secure than the aluminum one I had before. Max lift is 20”, so my estimation a post or two above was off a little.

As for your car, sure! Bring it down!

[Warhammer]

After the heat shield installation, I went out to grab a bite with my wife. The little we drove, I noticed a discernible lower temp on the tunnel, but I’ll drive more later...

Good to hear! I've had the same kit sitting in my garage for months. Maybe I'll actually get around to installing it when I finish repairing the AC.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Wrapped up neutralizing the pre-load on the RSB and FSB, the former was off by more than I thought (RR corner).

I lubed all the caliper guides because I used the wrong grease a few months back.

I lubed the front UBJs.

I peeled off trunk flange seal, cleaned it and the flange, resealed the rear edge, reinstalled the rubber seal. Also sealed the passthroughs of the tail lights with silicone.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Totally forgot to do what I originally started all this for: oil change. Lol!

Went back out and jacked the car up, changed the oil.



Since January 20, I’ve driven the car 3410 miles. Lol!

[—Bryan—]

Saw the Paco stands in person at MATG. If it wasn't for the intimidation factor of initial purchase, I think I'd buy those in a second...

[— kung fu jesus —]

I borrowed these from a friend. Not a lot of help for alignments because my garage slopes slightly inward and out, but I was able to gauge the camber and toe. There were helpful for setting up the swaybars, though.

[—Bryan—]

I borrowed these from a friend. Not a lot of help for alignments because my garage slopes slightly inward and out, but I was able to gauge the camber and toe. There were helpful for setting up the swaybars, though.

Man, you got good local friends

[— kung fu jesus —]

The ATL Miata community is really strong and friendly.

[— kung fu jesus —]

Stuffed the trunk seal with a little more the 9 feet of 1/4”of vinyl tubing to create a better seal. $2. 30-45 minutes later, ~ 9’ of tubeinh, some elbow grease, and a couple shots of silicone lube = success.




Tubing slips in this oval cut in the trunk seal, near the latch.





Washed the seal:


With a spray tube extension on an aerosol can of lube, I gave the inside of the seal, where the tubing will insert, a healthy shot to facilitate sliding in the tubing. Laying the seal over the arm of a chair straightens the seal. Start feeding in the tubing. If it stops find the closest hole in the seal (there are drain holes all along the seal), give it another shot of lube or two in both directions. I trimmed about 9-10” off the 10’ of tubing I bought. It all inserted quickly. Clean your flange on the trunk before reinstalling the seal.

The trunk will need a decent slam to close, but it will seal a lot tighter.

[HarryB]

Bought a BP4W head; my car is a 1.6, so you see where this is heading...

[— kung fu jesus —]

Am I wrong that the 1.6 Europe received later is an under-bored BP block?

[HarryB]

AFAIK EUDM NB/NB2s are the same B6 block as USDM 1.6 NAs but with solid lifters and no CAS (crank sensor moved to the front of the engine, same as in 1.8 NBs). The head is not part of the 1.6 build; I have been having this weird thought for a while though. My car has now more than 180k kms, and although meticulously maintained, adding boost will eventually lead to a worn engine. So I thought of building an essentially stock-spec 1.8 as a side project in the next couple of years, to replace the 1.6 when time comes. Plan is as follows:

BP4W head, refreshed (springs, guides, stem seals), deshrouded bowls, casting flash removed from ports and port matching. Reseat valves, contemplating on getting new stainless undercut valves as well. BP5A intake cam or custom regrind, but nothing too drastic. BP-Z3 bottom end, refreshed (bearings etc.), possibly honing and new piston rings, oherwise stock. Boundary oil pump gears in VVT oil pump. Squaretop intake. Everything else (flywheel, injectors, Rotrex blower) will directly transfer over the 1.6. Build timeframe should be about 2 years, doing all the work by myself. Should be fun!

[Demon I Am]

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Mail Call!!!


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One of 2 window switch units produced like this!

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Generation 2 style winkers. Full aluminum body. Weather sealed bulbs. Tres chic!