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Thread: Better late than never

  1. #16
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    Install is looking good.

    What panel bond are you using? Been looking into the 3m stuff for my rear quarters under the flares.


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  2. #17
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Warhammer's Avatar
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    Thanks!

    I used Evercoat FIB-815 Maxim. It fits a standard caulking gun and gets really good reviews.
    - Rex

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  4. #18
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Paul B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warhammer View Post
    Thanks!

    I used Evercoat FIB-815 Maxim. It fits a standard caulking gun and gets really good reviews.
    Thanks!! Ill look into that stuff!


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  5. #19
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Warhammer's Avatar
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    I started the day yesterday with fixing the issue with the hood. I bonded the bumper support to the bumper too low, which pushed the top edge of the bumper up too high. I thought about taking a BFH to the mounitng area to bend it down, but realized that I would end up bending the area where the headlights mount as well. I ended up cutting both of the fiberglass mounting tabs off of the support, which immediately dropped the bumper down to where it belongs.





    With that done, I needed to fab up some new brackets to hold the bumper support onto the car. I was going to run to the hardware store and get some steel to drill and bend when I realized I already had wha t I needed. Good thing I didn't the original bumper support away I chopped off the corners and did a little filing and sanding to clean up the edges.



    Then a couple of holes and bolts on each side and viola! It doesn't even look too bad!



    So now the bumper is secure, flush with the hood and has an even gap all the way across.



    The gap between the bumper and hood looks bigger than it really is because the edge of the bumper has no paint yet. I'm going to play with tightening up the gap a bit, but it will not be as apparent after paint.
    Last edited by Warhammer; 06-20-2018 at 05:39 PM.
    - Rex

    2003 LS Widebody, Pure White, Too many mods to list in a signature

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  7. #20
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Warhammer's Avatar
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    Before re-securing the front bumper, I took the opportunity to play with a new toy:



    My new rivnut tool. Most people seem to just use self-tapping screws when they install a body kit, but I wanted to do it right. Self-tapping screws tend to loosen up when you remove and reinstall them multiples times, which I know I will be doing throughout the installation of this body kit. So, the first two rivnuts I did replaced the self-tapping screws where the bumper mounts at the front of the fenders.



    The rivnut setter is pretty easy to use. I did find out that it doesn't squeeze quite tight enough in one go to keep the rvnuts from spinning in the Miata sheet metal. I had to set the rivnut, then open the handles and screw the tool in a little more and give it a second squeeze. THEN the rivnuts are nice and snug.

    A somewhat funny aside... The previous owner had broken off both of the black plastic bumper brackets that would pop into the square hole in the picture above. Not wanting anything to slow down my installation, I ordered 2 new brackets and popped them into place. Well, It turns out that they get in the way of this particular bumper and I had to take them out, breaking both of them in the process. :dunno:
    Last edited by Warhammer; 06-20-2018 at 05:40 PM.
    - Rex

    2003 LS Widebody, Pure White, Too many mods to list in a signature

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  9. #21
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Warhammer's Avatar
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    Now that I had already drilled 2 holes in my Miata, albeit in out of the way, hidden places, I was ready to dive into drilling about 20 holes on the first side of the car. A spring loaded center punch and a step drill will be your friend for this part. I cringe every time I see a youtube video where they are just using a big old spiral drill bit and they drill straight through the flare and the car in one step.

    The flares in my kit have nice molded in dimples where the holes need to be drilled.



    Using a scrap block of delrin as a backer, I drilled out the holes, int he flares with a spiral bit.



    I lined up all the parts, center punched the location for the first hole and then drilled the first 3/8" hole.



    Wow! That wasn't as scary as i thought it would be, lol!



    I set my first rivnut, then bolted the flare onto the car, marked the next location, removed the flare, drilled the next hole and then set the rivnut. I repeated this process for each hole. It took longer than If I had just marked all the holes and drilled them in one go, but this way I made sure each hole was drilled exactly in the right place.

    Last edited by Warhammer; 06-20-2018 at 05:40 PM.
    - Rex

    2003 LS Widebody, Pure White, Too many mods to list in a signature

    My build thread

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  11. #22
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Warhammer's Avatar
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    Fitment is pretty good overall. I had to do a bit of fitting on some of the bolt-on points to rebate the underside so the rivnuts wouldn't hold the flare too far away from the panel. After painting, I'm going to ad black fender welting to cover up any uneven gaps.



    Last edited by Warhammer; 06-20-2018 at 05:41 PM.
    - Rex

    2003 LS Widebody, Pure White, Too many mods to list in a signature

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  13. #23
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Make sure the hardware you’re using are a good stainless steel or they’ll start rusting and staining your paint.


    No todo que es oro brilla.

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  15. #24
    Forum Sponsor revlimiter's Avatar
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    LOVING this thread! And that wide body looks fantastic.

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  17. #25
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Warhammer's Avatar
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    Next came the side skirt.


    The rear of the skirt required some filing to get it to lay against the body just right.





    I used 3 self tapping screws on the bottom and 3 inside the door jamb. These will be replaced with rivnuts and stainless bolts later. I can't use the same washers and bolts I'm using on the flares, because they need to be more low-profile to not interfere with the door closing.



    Last edited by Warhammer; 06-20-2018 at 05:42 PM.
    - Rex

    2003 LS Widebody, Pure White, Too many mods to list in a signature

    My build thread

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  19. #26
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Warhammer's Avatar
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    Finally, the rear flare:



    And, done with the left side!





    Here's a shot that shows how much wider the new bumper is.

    Last edited by Warhammer; 06-20-2018 at 05:42 PM.
    - Rex

    2003 LS Widebody, Pure White, Too many mods to list in a signature

    My build thread

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  21. #27
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Warhammer's Avatar
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    Next, I got to work on the right side of the car. I did't take a lot of pics, as it's really just a repetition of the other side. I did take this shot that shows the added width from the side skirt.



    It also shows the half-assed job the previous owner did on rolling and pulling the fenders. Oh well, that will be cut off soon enough.
    Last edited by Warhammer; 06-20-2018 at 05:43 PM.
    - Rex

    2003 LS Widebody, Pure White, Too many mods to list in a signature

    My build thread

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  23. #28
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Warhammer's Avatar
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    With the last piece of the kit installed, I decided it was time to take her off the stands and enjoy the nice weather we were having.





    I'm definitely going to need to upgrade the wheels and tires soon! The original wheels look so skinny now!

    I stopped at work to show it off a bit, then took a few shots of the car in the lot behind the store.







    Last edited by Warhammer; 06-20-2018 at 05:44 PM.
    - Rex

    2003 LS Widebody, Pure White, Too many mods to list in a signature

    My build thread

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  25. #29
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! Warhammer's Avatar
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    The initial installation is done, but I still have more work to do:
    • Fitting the flares a little better so there is less gap in a few areas
    • Remove and reattach the skirts using rivnuts and bolts
    • Cutting out the front and rear vents in the side skirts
    • Cutting the original front fenders
    • Cutting the rear fenders and then taking care of the resulting gap between the layers of steel
    • Paint (of course))
    • Installing fender welting on the flares

    While I'm far from finished, I'm pretty happy with the progress I made over the last 3 days.
    Last edited by Warhammer; 06-20-2018 at 05:44 PM.
    - Rex

    2003 LS Widebody, Pure White, Too many mods to list in a signature

    My build thread

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  27. #30
    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone Roadster7's Avatar
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    That view from the front is sick.

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