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Thread: DIY dash hats

  1. #1
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    DIY dash hats

    I like to make things "float" like my past projects with my floating windblocker and more recently with my door speaker grills. So I decided my next float project was to make dash things. They don't serve any purpose other than aesthetic and they don't really have a name so technically speaking, I guess you could call them dash vent covers.

    Materials I ended up using: 3" INSIDE diameter PVC pipe connector, 6 Torx screws, 6 (4mm) vinyl spacers, carbon fiber vinyl scraps.


    First I prototyped different PVC piping to get the right curvature. 3" OD pipe was too small and 4" OD pipe was too big (although it can be worked to fit fine) so I ended up using a 3" ID pipe "connector" which was perfect for me.




    First thing was to get a center line. Of course, it all seemed easy until I actually did it and found my line was never perfect. Then I made a DIY plumbob with a bolt and string and let gravity draw my line.


    To get the design equal on both sides of the center line, I used a piece of paper to lay over the vent humps and trace the humps and then folded it in half and trimmed the edges together, just like when making those hearts out of construction paper in kindergarten. ;) I tried foil before the paper but it didn't work out so well.


    I had different designs in mind including some much longer and a couple that protruded forward to guide vent flow but settled on what you see now. If I get bored, I can always design a different set. By the way, the metal cutting wheel cuts much faster and cleaner than the regular cutoff disc which tends to melt the PVC as you see here.


    Then I spent a lot of time sanding the edges with a Dremmel until they were tapered and wafer thin. I thought I had pictures but I don't. You can imagine though that you have to take your time with this step to get it right. Sand too much and you have to start over. I didn't want to start over.

    Probably the hardest part was measuring for hole symmetry. I didn't want the mounts to be too visible but since the screws were going to be decorative Torx, I thought three would work great althought two would work as well but not as stable. I used 5mm Nylon spacers and sanded them to the interior curvature of the PCV.


    Center line is critical for everything to work right so I measured many times. Then I drilled the holes, took a larger bit and hand turned it in order to countersink the screw heads. If I used the drill for the countersinking, it would have ripped right through and I'd have to start over.


    I sanded everything down perfectly smooth and started the finishing process which in keeping with my high-tech theme, is carbon fiber vinyl.


    As with my other projects, I spray a little 3M adhesive, mount the heat gun to the vice and warm up the parts and mold, pull and mold again like crazy until everything is covered without creases or bubbles.


    Previously, I sprayed the underside of the PCV with some black paint which is easier than doing it with the vinyl in place.


    So this is the final result with screws although I later painted the heads black.

  2. #2
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    The final results:

    *I chose carbon fiber look but there are so many other options available like leather, wood, aluminum, patterned fabric, multiple colors (almost painted them yellow!) or affixing tiny turn signal LEDs and so on.
















  3. #3
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! titch's Avatar
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    Looks like a surprised owl! LOL.

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    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Yeah it does, haha. I need turn the harzard lights button into a beak. Perhaps one of those flip-cover switches?

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! titch's Avatar
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    That'd actually be cool as hell, in a strange sorta way.

  6. #6
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! jux's Avatar
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    Definitely original.
    Now that I've seen the eyebrows, I just can't unsee them. Will need to look up some of your other projects, as this one is very unique.
    '90 "LE" with red bits - 7/6 Flex, FM Front Bar, 14x7 +19 RPF1, PWR, SPAL, Maxim Works, Thermal R&D, HDHCSDM2, Zoom, Anvil II, 330mm mahogany Deep Corn, AC/PS delete, LE interior, attitude
    '08.5 CWP MS3 GT - AST 4100, TriPoint Rear Sway and Links, JBR STS w/ bushings and lockout plate, Moddiction Anvil II

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    i hope you get delrin mounts and the screws/bolts (didn't even read) back out

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    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Yep, last 8 photos show everything blacked out.

    Still working on the owl-beak hazard switch (but not really).

  9. #9
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    back out...
    as in - the screws come out

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    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Oh, yes, the screws come out. The plastic feet are affixed to the bottom of the hat. Why do you ask?

  11. #11
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    i didn't ask!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    i commented...

    Quote Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
    i hope...the screws/bolts (didn't even read) back out
    you have rattles?
    you use any loctite?

  12. #12
    Individual-1 ☚ ☻ ☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    You hate me!!!




    Haha, no, no Locktite needed nor rattles. The screws are like wood screws with a Torx head. Once they're in, nothing budges.

    I'd like to try to make some aluminum or wood ones next, maybe even larger.

  13. #13
    Idling - Listen to it purr...
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    He hates everyone. ;)

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    4,000 rpm - entering the fun zone wannafbody's Avatar
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    I'm not really a fan but if you're happy then that's the most important thing.

  15. #15
    Idling - Listen to it purr...
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    Kinda cool, and I've thought about replacing the hazard button with a toggle switch, but given the way OE switch mount, toggle would have to be side ways. And it's been a challenge looking for a toggle with always on lights...

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