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Thread: Timing Belt replacement question.

  1. #1
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! WASABI's Avatar
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    Timing Belt replacement question.

    So after I removed/degreased/washed/stripped/primed/painted every part, and bolt, I am ready to install my new timing belt. I have looked online for write-ups and some really great videos, however, now that I have everything set, I am second guessing myself, because I don't want to tear it back down if I am off a tooth.

    It looks like I have everything ready to go...but, I wanted to run it by you guys first.

    THIS IS HOW SHE STANDS



    Judging from my "before" pictures, it looks the same, but could the mechanic that did the first timing belt, have made a mistake with the cams? (note: was told when I bought the car, the timing belt was done, but the car had been sitting for 4 years, and had a little oil leak from the front crank seal) I figured it was good preventative maintenance.

    THIS IS BEFORE! to compare. I know it's at a different angle, but I was looking at the cam positions.


    When I tore her down, I found out that he did put the woodruff key in backwards!!!



    Any help would great!

    -Jim

  2. #2
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    unfortunately, i didn't do mine. the shop did when i got my shit rebuilt...
    i haven't read this article in a while - http://www.miata.net/garage/timingbelt.html - but it should go over everything you need to know, including how many teeth there should be not touching the cams.

  3. #3
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! adamvanxxx's Avatar
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    As long as you are at TDC everything looks perfectly fine to me.

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    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! urban's Avatar
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    i see you counted 19 teeth between the timing marks..
    go through the rotation process again , and if it lines up your good.


    btw , i just did this last week , went though the process, nailed it , and it fired right up . most people are more nervous then they need to be , looks like you got it though.

  5. #5
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! WASABI's Avatar
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    The more I look at it, I think I am off one tooth on the intake cam (counter clockwise). The top mark is straight up, but the lower cam mark is just shy of the "E" stamped on the backing plate. I did find this series of videos quite helpful.


  6. #6
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! adamvanxxx's Avatar
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    It's okay to be off just a tiny bit like you are on the intake cam. Odds are you are over analyzing it.

  7. #7
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! WASABI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamvanxxx View Post
    It's okay...Odds are you are over analyzing it.
    Yeah, I think you're right. I just got home and looked at her again, with fresh eyes, and that son of a bitch looks spot on. Fug it, I'm puttin' her back together, and see if I can get out on the road tonight! It's been in the 80's all week up here in New England....THIS WEATHER WASN'T SUPPOSED TO HAPPEN FOR ANOTHER MONTH! Wish me luck.

    -Jim

  8. #8
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift I<3flippyheadlights's Avatar
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    You can do it!
    1990 Miata, she was red but now she is Spirit Green!

    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....d-a-love-story <--- build thread!

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  9. #9
    Rest in Peace Ben bedheadben's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by urban View Post
    i see you counted 19 teeth between the timing marks..
    go through the rotation process again , and if it lines up your good. most people are more nervous then they need to be , looks like you got it though.
    This. Crank it over by hand a few times and make sure it's still lined up. If it is, you're probably good.
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  10. #10
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! moerdogg's Avatar
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    Jim,

    Did the same thing with mine, looks like you are fine. I ended up over-thinking it, pulling everything apart, and moving it. Turns out I had it right the first time, the car would not run! I think it sits just a little bit past the mark because of valve spring pressure on the camshaft not being exact, so a teeny bit one way or the other is fine.

  11. #11
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! WASABI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bedheadben View Post
    This. Crank it over by hand a few times and make sure it's still lined up. If it is, you're probably good.
    Quote Originally Posted by moerdogg View Post
    Did the same thing with mine...I ended up over-thinking it...I think it sits just a little bit past the mark because of valve spring pressure on the camshaft not being exact
    So, this weekend was pretty busy, but I did get a chance to crank it by hand 3 or 4 times, and everything stayed correct. I then figured out why I was having second thoughts about the cam lobs not looking right....I had advanced the timing to 14, so the cams reflected this, when the timing mark was at TDC, the lobs were a smidge off, but came in line at 14º advance. (Yes I know you are supposed to set the timing to factory 10º BEFORE you start a timing belt change.)



    Waxed the valve cover before I installed her.

  12. #12
    Rest in Peace Ben bedheadben's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WASABI View Post
    So, this weekend was pretty busy, but I did get a chance to crank it by hand 3 or 4 times, and everything stayed correct. I then figured out why I was having second thoughts about the cam lobs not looking right....I had advanced the timing to 14, so the cams reflected this, when the timing mark was at TDC, the lobs were a smidge off, but came in line at 14º advance. (Yes I know you are supposed to set the timing to factory 10º BEFORE you start a timing belt change.)

    Waxed the valve cover before I installed her.
    You advanced the cam timing to 14°? Because if you're talking about ignition timing, which I'm pretty sure you are, that has nothing to do with the timing belt. At least the way I adjusted the ignition timing on my NA was by loosening up the cam angle sensor (CAS) and turning it to get the timing I wanted, then locking it back down. Of course you have to jump the diagnostics box and all that but the only thing that should physically be in a different spot after you adjust ignition timing is the CAS on an NA Miata, certainly not the timing belt, crank, or cams. TDC will be in the same place regardless of the ignition timing, regardless if you even had an ignition. The cams shouldn't line up at 10° or 14° on the crank pulley, they should line up when the crank pulley is positioned to TDC or 0°.

    I think you might be one tooth off on the crankshaft with the timing belt.
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  13. #13
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! WASABI's Avatar
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    Ben, I see what you are saying, and perhaps I mis-spoke. Looking at the cam lobes, might have been an optical illusion? After I mounted my lower timing belt cover, that has the timing marks, I turned her by hand, and the cam gears came into alignment every other rotation.



    The #1 cylinder (closest to the front) should have the cam lobes pointing out at 90º. When I look at them, the seem ever so slightly higher, like 93º. I think it will be fine. Finger's crossed.

    -Jim

  14. #14
    Rest in Peace Ben bedheadben's Avatar
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    Ah, yes. Looking at that picture where I can see both the crank and cam pulleys, it looks like you're absolutely fine. Must have just been a minor misunderstanding, but I still don't know where ignition timing came into the picture, regardless of whether or not it's advanced.
    Boss Performance Shift Knobs!

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  15. #15
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! WASABI's Avatar
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    As a Mod...can I take out stupid things I say?

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