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Thread: NA6CE 1992 Form vs Function Build and History

  1. #76
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Measure the width on your seats. I thought I read the passenger seat was a little narrower for the Lotus seats.

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  3. #77
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    I changed my instrumentation to red. I have a spare cluster with an Odo that is within 200 miles of my own, except this one has a working trip meter reset button. I really enjoy the work Adam (RevLimiter) does, but it doesn't suit my needs at the moment. I ordered Lockwood gauge faces and HVAC panel from MX5nuts in Ireland. I also ordered red bulb covers from Adam. Altogether, about $88. The faces arrived in 6 business days, which I consider pretty good!

    Because I had a spare cluster, it sort of made the swap easier.





    I installed the gauges, new bulbs, and covers, then went to remove the old cluster. Just before I removed it, I snapped pictures of the needle positions so I knew where the new ones should be.



    At this point, swapping the clusters takes less than 5 minutes.



    My stereo has some pretty unique color-matching settings, so after I adjusted that, it matched the new instrumentation very well!

    All left to do now is to replace the hazard and headlight button lights on the center stack.




    The photos don't really do the color justice. The illumination is blood red, very rich, I like it very much!

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  5. #78
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    can I send my Recaros to reupholster ?


    Digging the red lights i need to change out my HVAC and Hazard yet

  6. #79
    Admin / Pit Boss / Miataholic Phatmiata's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    I changed my instrumentation to red...........................

    ...................Because I had a spare cluster, it sort of made the swap easier.






    The photos don't really do the color justice. The illumination is blood red, very rich, I like it very much!


    would be cool if you could wire your security light up in the new gauge face and make it blink when armed

  7. #80
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    NA6CE 1992 Form vs Function Build and History

    The LED and reset for the WbO2 is mounted in a blank on the lower left. Most people think it's an alarm indicator.

    Adam's research to find red bulb covers resulted in a fantastic effect when paired with red gauges. The incandescent lights really give the gauges a softer, glowing light versus the LED replacements.

    I ordered the red bulbs for the center combo switch plus an extra for the A/C button, should I find myself wanting to do that one.

  8. #81
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Installed red LEDs in the center switch, changed the grab for safety pin in the FSS....

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437151764.615101.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437151774.948772.jpg

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437151786.407698.jpg

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  10. #82
    Super Moderator tsingson's Avatar
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    Is the AC button hard to change to red?

  11. #83
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    It is a little harder to get at because the HVAC unit needs to released from the cables at the sides. Not difficult, just a bit more time consuming.

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  13. #84
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    NA6CE 1992 Form vs Function Build and History

    Had the bumper cover off tonight to replace the air diverter panel. The original one was notched years ago to accommodate an intercooler on one of the turbo configurations I ran. It had taken a few hits over the years since and was no longer structural. It literally dropped out in 3 pieces. No bueno, especially for cooling.

    With the bumper off, I also took the heat gun to press out the sag in the cover right in the middle. Just a few minutes and some upward pressure took care of that.

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437440208.304778.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437440222.308022.jpg

    Everything is buttoned up, the bumper is solid and no longer flopping around.
    Last edited by kung fu jesus; 07-20-2015 at 08:17 PM.

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  15. #85
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    Started to dust off the MSPnP and associated accouterments. It has been a while since I used it and the last time I did, it wouldn't connect. I reached out to Matt at DIY, he told me to try reinstalling the firmware, so I am going to do that. In the meantime, the laptop I used is no bueno, so I dusted off my Macbook Pro. I updated the OS on it and DL'd the Tunerstudio software on it, which was awesome because my old Window reg key is still good! I didn't have the connection cable, so I ordered one that is known to work.

    I found the COPs I built in the bin of parts the PO gave me, which is awesome, because I loved the way the car ran with them. I also found the 1.6 automatic TB I gave him. If the MS is good after the firmware reinstall, I will try to run it on the base map, then begin to go back to COPs, a TB with a true VTPS, then remove the AFM. I replaced the O@ sensor on the wideband O2 last week. Fortunately, the sensor is an off-the-shelf part for an Audi/VW and the local autoparts chain 2 miles away had them for $50. That alone solved all kinds of weirdness I was having.

    No updates on the short block rebuild at this time.

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  17. #86
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    Short block rebuild begins this weekend. I should have it and another rebuilt motor waiting in the wings that I will seal up.

  18. #87

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  20. #88
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! Greasemonkey2000's Avatar
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    Kudos on the short block rebuild, I've always wanted to rebuild a motor.

  21. #89
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    It's been pretty easy, but that is just disassembly.

  22. #90
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    NA6CE 1992 Form vs Function Build and History

    A little progress today. I removed the old rings and cleaned the pistons. Afterward, I weighed out the reciprocating assemblies. They are all +\- 2 grams of each other. I will zero them out now that I know where the min an max are. For stock parts, this is really pretty good, but I have the means, so I will.

    I am putting together a coolant reroute. Reverend Greg is local to me, and is building a spacer for the back of the head and a front block off plate. I will use a Kia neck and Escalade hose with a CSF aluminum radiator.

    I *might* shave my built head when we pull it. On a stock block, I am around 10:1, based on compression tests. A little more would be nice, just depends on time.. The other option is to clean the stock head and chuck it on there and do the extra work to the built head later.

    Anyways, pictures:














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