View Poll Results: What front bumper should I get next?

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  • AutoExe

    5 45.45%
  • HKS Kansai (might be discontinued)

    1 9.09%
  • NOPRO GT Spec Type N

    1 9.09%
  • Bomex....again

    1 9.09%
  • OEM w/ a lip of some sort.

    3 27.27%
  • None, horrible choices.

    0 0%
Multiple Choice Poll.
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Thread: Fiona : NB Build

  1. #466
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift Demon I Am's Avatar
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    Sorry, I meant coolant overflow container.

    And I have the intake inbound, but thanks for the offer.

  2. #467
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power pacman 99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon I Am View Post
    Sorry, I meant coolant overflow container.

    And I have the intake inbound, but thanks for the offer.
    Oh it's a Weapon R universal coolant reservoir in NeoChrome. Its not meant for Mazda's as it has the nipple on the top of the cannister instead at the bottom. So you have to extend it down the bottom with some tubbing from the inside. I'm actually shopping for a new coolant reservoir since mine is kind of beat up and leaks a little.

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  4. #468
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power pacman 99's Avatar
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    My last project was fixing the large hood gap created from the Chaser Aero hood. Over the past 2 years I've noticed a significant amount of debris/water stains in my engine bay. A issue I didn't have with my stock hood.



    I did a quick search for hood seals and found some made for corvettes. Apparently that's a common problem for them.



    It's triangle shaped with double sided tape on one side.



    I removed one edge since I found it unnecessary.



    Set the tape one inch at a time and you should be good.



    Done!! There's nothing getting through now!



    And........... today I got a surprise shipment! Early birthday present I guess.





    Last edited by pacman 99; 05-20-2016 at 11:52 AM.

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    BRGNA8 (05-20-2016),Demon I Am (05-20-2016),Greasemonkey2000 (05-20-2016),HarryB (05-20-2016),JamieH (05-20-2016),jdmfc3s90 (05-20-2016),NCGreasemonkey (05-21-2016),pnoy1duh (05-20-2016),RotorNutFD3S (05-20-2016),Vegard (05-20-2016)

  6. #469
    Idling - Listen to it purr... Samer's Avatar
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    These wheels... They're porn.

  7. #470
    Super Moderator RotorNutFD3S's Avatar
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    The GV hood I just bought has the same gap issue so now I have a solution. So thanks for posting that!
    Nice wheels too!!
    I've got a lot less horsepower - luckily they are Japanese horses - usually in better shape and more motivated.

  8. #471
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! CollinMB's Avatar
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    Those wheels and your car get all the yes

  9. #472
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power pacman 99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RotorNutFD3S View Post
    The GV hood I just bought has the same gap issue so now I have a solution. So thanks for posting that!
    Nice wheels too!!
    I saw that! Will look great once its painted.

  10. #473
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! pnoy1duh's Avatar
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    hood seal; same one?
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORVETTE-HOO...tWRez1&vxp=mtr

    I've kind of had the same issue when I put on the autoexe bumper. Those wheels will be perfect for your car. Lol, some similar taste you and I!

  11. #474
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power pacman 99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pnoy1duh View Post
    hood seal; same one?
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/CORVETTE-HOO...tWRez1&vxp=mtr



    I've kind of had the same issue when I put on the autoexe bumper. Those wheels will be perfect for your car. Lol, some similar taste you and I!
    I got mine from East Coast Corvettes. The eBay one looks the same.

    http://www.eastcoastvette.com/p-715-...04-c5-z06.aspx


    I know we both got expensive tastes Any updates with your car?

  12. #475
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here! pnoy1duh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pacman 99 View Post
    Any updates with your car?
    Nah, not really. I'll be removing the factory side skirts soon and putting on project g's side g-fusers and I have a pair of craft square headlights. Other than that, I'll be putting on some small parts I've had sitting in my garage for a couple years now since I have more time with my new(ish) job lol.
    Last edited by pnoy1duh; 05-21-2016 at 09:06 AM.

  13. #476
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power pacman 99's Avatar
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    Got myself a new toy.

    Pioneer TS-WH500A



    For a while now I've been wanting to improve my car's audio by adding a subwoofer. I really didn't like the options available for our cars. Ebay custom 10" trunk subwoofer enclosure that takes away my tool storage space. Passenger foot well enclosure by Track Dog Racing that eliminates some leg space. The only one I liked was the parcel shelf with small "free air" subwoofers but reviews were mixed at best.

    That's when I found out about compact/slim sealed subwoofers. They are perfect for our little roadsters and can be placed almost anywhere without using so much space.



    The Pioneer TS-WH500A was the thinnest subwoofer out there with a 2 3/8" profile. Overall dimensions are : 13-3/8"W x 9-7/8"D x 2-3/8"H. It has a built-in amplifier (50 watts nominal, 150 watts peak) and uses two 7"x4" polypropylene woofers with rubber surround. It also has this HVT technology which sounds pretty fancy.



    On the back of the unit you can see the other woofer and the ports for the wire harness and remote control wire. Looks easy already!



    Here's the rest of parts included in the box.

    1) Wiring harness (Power with in-line fuse holder/ Ground/ Remote turn-on with in-line fuse holder/ RCA input)
    2) Wired remote control with attached 18' cable
    3) Velcro Strip

    These were the only parts needed for my install. I would be using RCA cables to connect to the head unit. The RCA to speaker wire adapter won't be needed. (shown on the right)



    3 feet of RCA speaker cables was purchased at Radio Shack. I later found out I couldn't use the right angle adapters .... head unit shape wouldn't allow it :/



    A look at the back of my Pionner head unit looking for my RCA hookup for my subwoofer. The bottom row was it.



    If you haven't guessed already..... this was the spot I choose for the subwoofer. It fits like a glove!!



    I added leftover Dyna Mat material to the chassis facing the subwoofer to improve the resonance. I end up using one of the bolts for the parcel shelf as my ground source. Didn't secure the subwoofer with the supplied mounting bracket and screws. It's fits perfectly with the seat pulled all the way back!



    Next up is wiring. Here I'm connecting my male Pioneer Blue/White wire connector to the OEM radio Blue/Black wire via a T-tap. The T-tap was already there waiting for me! I guess someone else (or me) had used it before for something else. These wires are for the +12v switch when the ignition is turned on. That way the subwoofer doesn't stay on constantly and drain your battery. The Pioneer Blue/White wire also includes a female butt connector but that one is optional. Can be connected to a power antenna but my NB doesn't have one.



    Now for the constant +12v power I did have to do a little custom wiring. 5 inches of 18g wire, inline wire tap, female butt connector is all that was needed.



    The constant +12v for the OEM radio is the Blue/Red wire. The yellow Pioneer wire needs to tap into that wire. Another option is the +12v yellow cigarette wire. I decided to tap in to the Metra wiring harness which was labeled and colored yellow too.




    Constant +12v connected!



    The wiring harness is super long, so I loomed it up neatly and tucked it underneath the console. I placed the inline fuses specifically in that area so that they are easy to reach by simply pulling out my JDM cubby.



    Threaded the RCA cables and the 3ft length was perfect.



    Zip tied everything and used a little velcro to press down the wires as much as possible in the area in which it will cross paths with my shorty console. Almost forgot about my remote control for the subwoofer at this point. I decided to run the wiring harness inbetween the OEM carpet and my tunnel quilted cover. I figured rattles would be reduced this way.



    The excess wire for the remote control was left behind the seat. I made sure I left enough slack on it so it can be pulled out.



    I used the glove box as my mounting point for my remote control. The self adhesive velcro strips were used here. I figured the passenger would need it more than I would...haha!


    I'm really happy with the results! I'm surprised how much powerful bass response I'm getting out of such a small unit. The best part is the there is almost no seat travel lost in the passenger seat! I think you only lose one click on the recline but that's about it!

    Sorry for no video. Usually phones can't record good audio anyways.

    I highly recommend it for any hardtop Miata.


    Sneak peek of whats next....

    Last edited by pacman 99; 06-08-2016 at 11:20 AM.

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  15. #477
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power bogaut's Avatar
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    wish i wouldda bought some of those 16x8 te. so pretty

  16. #478
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power pacman 99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogaut View Post
    wish i wouldda bought some of those 16x8 te. so pretty
    We got a 15x8 +25 bronze set for sale. Contact Rev9 Autosport for more details.

  17. #479
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power bogaut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pacman 99 View Post
    We got a 15x8 +25 bronze set for sale. Contact Rev9 Autosport for more details.
    thanks for the tip

  18. #480
    3,000 rpm - starting to feel the power pacman 99's Avatar
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    Sard Radiator Reserve Tank for Toyota 86



    For a while I've wanted to replace my coolant resevior tank. The current Weapon R .... had many issues. It fed off the top of the tank instead from the bottom and it was pretty small. Over time it started to leak around the fittings.



    The SARD tank was the perfect size at just under 7 inches with the cap. Not only was it compact but it was a bit larger in diameter as well.



    I wanted to add the coolant tank in the same spot I had it before but I ran into some issues. Clearance was very very tight. The fitting at the bottom gets obstructed by the chassis and would've made it a very difficult install.



    I decided to move it back on the other side of engine bay close to the OEM location.



    I modified the supplied mounting bracket and used the mounting points that were used for the OEM charcoal canister. I reused my Sard skeleton green hoses to finish the install.



    The Sard tank comes with a inner baffle. Not sure whats its for but the quality is amazing for this piece.



    Love how the gold cap matches my R.S. Aizawa strut bar!



    I'm now in the hunt for a Gold ARC oil cap with the green seal ! If you know anyone selling one or hoarding one let me know. I'll pay top dollar!

    To complete the engine bay I plan on powder coating my valve cover wrinkle black with silver lettering and Joyfast valve cover stainless taper bolts that I purchases a year or so ago.

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    Demon I Am (06-13-2016),Fishbulb (06-13-2016),Greasemonkey2000 (06-13-2016),Ihatecars (06-13-2016),NCGreasemonkey (06-13-2016)

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