Engine woes

[Rogue]

Steve,
So whats the advantage of a VVT head locked down over a '99/00?
I have both, but just had the '99 built.

[— kung fu jesus —]

According to Emilio, it gives you a much improved curve. IIRC, he said the intake vvt locked at 30* is the bees knees. I think that gives you a decent HP, but also a nice, fat torque curve.

[LostSoulMiata]

If you're worried about downtime, do as KFJ said, find a core motor and build it outside so you still have your car to drive.

[3MiataFamily]

More people should pay closer attention to that triangle.

I just posted it on our Club Forum...hope nobody takes offense..LOL!!

[etikoner]

Some research brought me to find that my leaking CAS O-ring led to my heater hose blowing.

I'm gonna be changing it out tomorrow afternoon

I went to autozone to pick it up, but they didn't have them in the system....

They did have the crank angle sensor O-ring in stock, though, is that the same dimension ?

Also. I went ahead and bought some Rock Auto Pistons from JDM Slick for a good price. Now I'm working on picking up some super Tech Valves, springs, and seals from Joshiro. Just need to keep on saving money and not take my girlfriend out to eat. lol

My builder is gonna send my rods to be shot peened, my block will get hot tanked and bored for the 0.020 over bore on these pistons. And Hopefully I can source a 99 head to be rebuilt and have some minor port work done with these valves. Basically I'm gonna have my engine off my car, so it might as well get rebuilt and resealed so I can get a set of cams later down the line.

[— Willywongka —]

Just replaced the CAS O-ring on my 96 yesterday. It can be a pain in the ass to get it done quickly, but it beats paying someone 100 or so bucks.

[etikoner]

Sweet. But which part did you order at the store? Crank angle sensor o-ring?

[Andy]

Nice. Ive been thinking of buying a 1.8 engine and rebuilding it and getting it all ready so i can just drop it in my car.

[etikoner]

Update:

Replaced CAS O-ring. No one had it in stock, but a quick search found the dimensions, and my friend had the same one in the shop. Also went ahead and replaced the valve cover gasket at the same time.

My plan was to buy a long block for 200 bucks, and get it rebuilt/ refreshed. New bearings, shot peen the rods, new rings, rebuild the head and minor port n polish. All this would have costed 1500 bucks in parts and labor. Then I would have to worry about a new clutch,and a light weight flywheel.

I have ARP head studs waiting to go in.

At this point, I don't know what my goals are to be honest. I want low boost, but I just wanna keep it NA and stop wasting money and save up for other shit. I honestly don't know how much longer I'm gonna keep this car for. Maybe a year or two more till I can get an FRS.

Then I saw a 1.8 head for sale for a great price. Might go for it, pending how much it'll take to rebuilt it, and just change the seals on the engine.

Bleh.

[etikoner]

Maybe I should just buy a rebuilt ebay head?

[— kung fu jesus —]

Sorry, had to re-read the thread to catch up. The CAS o ring is a common size.

The dimensions are 1/8” Th – 1 ½” x 1 3/4”. If the autoparts store whips out the box of O rings from National, it is #222. Usually a $1 each.

I've never laid eyes on an ebay rebuilt head. Rebuilding your own is fairly easy. Just catalog, mark and organize the parts as you take them off. The only specialized tools you need it the valve spring compressor, which you can rent, and a piece of PVC tubing or electrical conduit about 3" long with a notch cut out so you can reinstall the valve keepers. There are a lot of documented Miata head rebuilds on the intart00bz you can reference. DIY gives you instant street cred among your fellow Miata lady boys so you can walk into ANY Miata meet like this:

[etikoner]

Fuck yeah.

I need tools. lol

[etikoner]

!

I know I'm so ADD.

Anywho, I've been doing some shopping,

94 Long block that ran pretty nicely but burned some oil before it was pulled.

ARP Head Studs
Viton Valve seals
99 Head with cams and misc items.
Ordering some OEM NB2 Pistons
Hondata phelonic spacer.

I also bought a set of ITB's put together from a gsxr600 with a custom made manifold adapter and some pretty air horns.

I feel that Not having any sort of tools, and really no prior experience, as well as time to really dedicate to building this leaves me the option of paying a trusted shop to build it for me.


hopefully it'll turn out nicely and the combo of long throttle horns with a fujitsubo 4-2-1 header should give me good torque and drive-ability.

Basically he'll be refreshing the block and rebuilding the head. All new bearings and seals throughout with some custom work to the block, like cleaning up the casting on the block by the crank shaft.

Pretty excited now

I'll try to source a mazdaspeed intake cam shaft, but for now I think i'm ready to have him build it.

I'll be perfectly happy with 150 whp but what can i realistically expect?

I scored an f1 racing 1.6 chromoly flywheel. it weighs around 10 lbs.

Was debating going with an f1 racing stage 1 clutch, or should i go with an exedy clutch?

[— kung fu jesus —]

I have the F1 1.6 flywheel and stage one clutch. The clutch is nice so far! Nice and light for DD duties. The flywheel need the center bore enlarged to accommodate the pilot bearing. Had a friend sand on it with fine grit for almost an hour while we were taking the tranny out. It looked micro-polished by the time he was done. It took more time than we thought to do that, just a heads up. Other than that, I've been really happy with both pieces.

If you aren't mechanically inclined, I don't think ITBs are a good idea. It's going to expensive for you.

[Slampen]

because you already have the 1.8, you don't need the MS to run a hybrid BP build.

Sorry for sliding in a newbie question. What is BP standing for here?