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Thread: This ain't no build thread!

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  1. #691
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Wired it for an aux input??? Was that hard?

  2. #692
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    Not at all. Go to post #573 on page 39 of this thread (if your settings are like mine). As long as you can solder you can do it. Just be sure you look up the instructions for our year, as mentioned our plug is configured differently and if you wire it as an '01 and up it won't work. I have extra resistors and switches lying around if you want to give it a shot, you would just have to wait until December for me to get home to send them to you.
    '00 SE, intercooled BRP MP62, Reverant MS2, Ohlins DFV, Konig Flatout (now X 2)
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    This ain't no build thread!

  3. #693
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    No rush, thanks.

  4. #694
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Back around page 13 you write that Mazda does not have a very full range of valve shims; there is a lot of jump from size to size.

    Did you find a source of finer shims?

    My new 2000 SE (soon to be delivered) has 137k miles on it, and I have no idea if the valve lash was adjusted at 75k as advised, I kinda doubt it. Even so the engine would be due of its second valve lash adjustment soon. Going to do a timing belt first thing, thought I'd get both done together.

    I was disappointed that you sent it to the shop to get the lash adjusted. If it is too complex for you, then I'm not going to try it.

    But I can certainly measure the clearances while I have the cover off.

  5. #695
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Back about page 7 you write that Mazda valve shims don't come in very fine increments. Did you find another source?

    I'm bummed that you felt the need to take it to the shop for lash setting. If you can't do it what chance have I?

  6. #696
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Don't overthink this. I found a few people who posted they had gotten shim sets, just search around and you should be able to find one. I never bought any myself, I just swapped around the shims I had. You need a precision measuring tool for the shims (micrometer would be great, I used a digital caliper I had and checked the zero between each shim) because I guarantee the thickness marking has worn off with your mileage, a set of feeler gauges and rudimentary math skills. I did mine the first go-around, there was a little bit of valve train noise when I was done so when I had to get the head checked/trued the second time I just paid the shop to set the lash for me. Remember I am only home about half of the year so anything I do is done on a compressed time schedule.

  7. #697
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Thanks, yes I tend to fixate on the more complex projects. Things I have done before don't overly bother me. The pending timing belt job is no issue for me. Things that could mar the interior scare me, like pulling the radio.

    How did you get the shims OUT? I am expecting to pull the cam shafts.

    So you don't philosophically mind moving shims around? I thought that there would be a risk of wiping the cam with another used shim. Apparently not.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by kevinharrop; 10-10-2017 at 06:00 PM.

  8. #698
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    Yes, I pulled the cams. Easy enough for me as opposed to trying to hunt down the tool needed to change the shims with the cams in place.

    You just have to be sure your math skills are good so you don't have to do it more than once. I had no problem moving the shims around, do you think the dealer would install all new shims if you took it to them?

    I look at it this way, if you know the history of the car or can see that your valve train is in good shape, then there is no reason not to reuse the shims where they will work for you.

    Just inspect everything to make sure there aren't any surprises.

  9. #699
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Where did you get that vinyl boot for the hand brake lever? Mine is hard plastic. Its gotta go.

  10. #700
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Vinyl, my good sir? How plebian!

    It is in fact leather, purchased from this site: www.redlinegoods.com. I have bought their products for several cars, all were first rate quality and there is little waiting. I would caution that if you order a cover for the center console lid you make sure you get one for '99-00, as our lids are longer than the '01-05 consoles. I was actually going to switch back to the leather pieces that were in the car when I bought it as they are a perfect match and the ones I got from Redline are off (IIRC I got their Sierra color, it's a little darker than Parchment). They have since added a Beige which they say matches the lighter color perfectly. I just haven't been able to find the older pieces yet. At some point I may try the new color from Redline to see if it does in fact match.

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  12. #701
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Oops, leather then! I am looking for a good match leather for my driver's seat back, which has a small hole in it.

    That plus the long hinge on my center console is broken, and I had no hope of finding another in parchment.

    It is in fact the parchment that is the big fly in the ointment on the 2000 SE. My top is in pretty good shape except that some on the threads on the seams are rotting out. I'll need to saddle stitch them back together after I find a reasonable match on the thread.

  13. #702
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    You may have thought of this, but if you pull one of your seats there should be a little excess leather somewhere underneath that you can snip off and take to an automotive upholstery place for them to match. Center console lids with the hinge are still available new, have a look on eBay. Alternatively you can glue on a piano hinge (what most people do. I opted for a new one when I broke the original).

  14. #703
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    Yeah, I assumed that I could find another center console. On the other hand it does not bother me much.

    But the hole in the seat troubles me. Does your gear box crash shifting from 1st to 2nd? Mine does, especially when it is cold. Possibly there is a miracle gear oil that I can use. I have to say that almost all the sports cars that I have owned had a noisy 2nd gear syncro, and I pretty much learned the sweet spot to shift them without the crash. But I'd like to own this one for quite a while, I may have to break down and have the tranny rebuilt.

    What sort of food do you feed to your leather? I have read to not use anything with petroleum distellates. (spell check is refusing to work...)

  15. #704
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    I see you posted a thread about the transmission, I use the Ford motorcraft unicorn tears that RotorNutFD3S mentioned there. It pretty much got rid of the stiffness going into second. There is still a little when cold but it is much better.

    I use Lexol cleaner and conditioner for leather. I stay away from any Armor-All products.

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  17. #705
    2,000 rpm - light wheelspin, no bog here!
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    You write "stiffness".

    (The previous owner described the hole in the seat as a "scuff".)

    Did you have a crashing sound? Or just a slow shift? How many miles on your buggy, anyway?

    I have heard good things about Lexol, thanks for the hint.

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