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Thread: This ain't no build thread!

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  1. #691
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Wired it for an aux input??? Was that hard?

  2. #692
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Not at all. Go to post #573 on page 39 of this thread (if your settings are like mine). As long as you can solder you can do it. Just be sure you look up the instructions for our year, as mentioned our plug is configured differently and if you wire it as an '01 and up it won't work. I have extra resistors and switches lying around if you want to give it a shot, you would just have to wait until December for me to get home to send them to you.
    '00 SE, intercooled BRP MP62, Reverant MS2, Ohlins DFV, Konig Flatout (now X 2)
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    This ain't no build thread!

  3. #693
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    No rush, thanks.

  4. #694
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Back around page 13 you write that Mazda does not have a very full range of valve shims; there is a lot of jump from size to size.

    Did you find a source of finer shims?

    My new 2000 SE (soon to be delivered) has 137k miles on it, and I have no idea if the valve lash was adjusted at 75k as advised, I kinda doubt it. Even so the engine would be due of its second valve lash adjustment soon. Going to do a timing belt first thing, thought I'd get both done together.

    I was disappointed that you sent it to the shop to get the lash adjusted. If it is too complex for you, then I'm not going to try it.

    But I can certainly measure the clearances while I have the cover off.

  5. #695
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Back about page 7 you write that Mazda valve shims don't come in very fine increments. Did you find another source?

    I'm bummed that you felt the need to take it to the shop for lash setting. If you can't do it what chance have I?

  6. #696
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Don't overthink this. I found a few people who posted they had gotten shim sets, just search around and you should be able to find one. I never bought any myself, I just swapped around the shims I had. You need a precision measuring tool for the shims (micrometer would be great, I used a digital caliper I had and checked the zero between each shim) because I guarantee the thickness marking has worn off with your mileage, a set of feeler gauges and rudimentary math skills. I did mine the first go-around, there was a little bit of valve train noise when I was done so when I had to get the head checked/trued the second time I just paid the shop to set the lash for me. Remember I am only home about half of the year so anything I do is done on a compressed time schedule.

  7. #697
    1,000 rpm - releasing the clutch
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    Thanks, yes I tend to fixate on the more complex projects. Things I have done before don't overly bother me. The pending timing belt job is no issue for me. Things that could mar the interior scare me, like pulling the radio.

    How did you get the shims OUT? I am expecting to pull the cam shafts.

    So you don't philosophically mind moving shims around? I thought that there would be a risk of wiping the cam with another used shim. Apparently not.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by kevinharrop; 10-10-2017 at 05:00 PM.

  8. #698
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Yes, I pulled the cams. Easy enough for me as opposed to trying to hunt down the tool needed to change the shims with the cams in place.

    You just have to be sure your math skills are good so you don't have to do it more than once. I had no problem moving the shims around, do you think the dealer would install all new shims if you took it to them?

    I look at it this way, if you know the history of the car or can see that your valve train is in good shape, then there is no reason not to reuse the shims where they will work for you.

    Just inspect everything to make sure there aren't any surprises.

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