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Thread: This ain't no build thread!

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  1. #601
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    So, you may recall that JBP said I could have a problem with the snout pulley that might have caused the seal to leak. When I got home and could measure it, I ordered a replacement from Track Dog Racing. I am running a 60 mm pulley for what it's worth. That showed up today finally after sitting at UPS over the weekend. I just got through swapping those out. If you need to do this you will require a puller (I got a set from Harbor Freight that works just fine). I used my 3/8" impact to remove the nut while holding the pulley with a strap wrench. Put the three-jaw puller on and removed the old pulley, then put the TDR pulley in place. One thing to note, the original (I'm guessing) pulley had lips on both sides of where the belt rides. The TDR does not. After that was buttoned up I put the slightly longer (by 5 mm) belt I bought previously and fired her up. Once running I checked and it looked like the belt had moved one rib on the snout pulley. I revved her up and checked again, nothing flew off. I got a flashlight to check with better lighting and found that it had not moved at all. Alignment is good, which makes me a happy man. I'll find out when I go for a test drive in a bit if it is good. Time for all the boosts!
    '00 SE, intercooled BRP MP62, Reverant MS2, Ohlins DFV, Konig Flatout (now X 2)
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    This ain't no build thread!

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  3. #602
    Nukuler banned! NCGreasemonkey's Avatar
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    You don't want me in a cage!

    Didn't you miss telling Alex Happy 50th?!?

    He will keel over and we will have free-run.

    J/K! Nice work Nut!
    ... Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerhead View Post
    ...and don't be like an NCGreasemonkey.
    For the thread on Noir click below
    http://mazdaroadster.net/showthread....e-light-Slowly

  4. #603
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    I didn't miss it, just took care of that elsewhere.

    Since I'm still waiting on my laptop (Amazon cancelled my order on the day it was supposed to be delivered and I had to order through a different company), I figured out how to use my wife's Apple POS to upload a picture. This is the same location as the picture from November sans hard top.

    Last edited by chiefmg; 07-12-2017 at 02:34 PM.

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  6. #604
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Yesterday I went to the body shop I used to paint the spoiler to see about getting some dings taken out. Their guy was supposed to be there today but the job he was scheduled for fell through. So I decided to finally see about burping my radiator with the no-spill funnel that everyone raves about. I raised the front a foot or so, put the funnel on and started her up. Revlimiter has a great write-up with pictures so I'm not going to delve into that, but the thing works great. I actually got some air out of it. For anyone who might use one, my Koyo radiator took the size C adapter and the size B cap.

    While I had the hood open I noticed a noise on start-up that I heard yesterday (it went away after a short time). I identified it as coming from the supercharger belt. It looked like the thing was moving around on the nose pulley. The noise again stopped for a bit, then it came back and sounded like the belt was slapping. I shut her off and decided to try the shorter belt (that is the one shown as correct from my searches). Started her back up, the noise was gone and the belt tracked straight and true. I guess the other one was just a little too long and the tensioner couldn't keep it how it should be.

    I then ran the diagnostics on the cruise to see if I can find out why it won't work. I did the static checks ok but didn't have any luck with the checks done once the car is running. I'm going to do some more research as the instructions I found aren't clear on some of the steps.

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  8. #605
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    The PDR guy was in today so I drove over to the shop for him to see what he could do. He removed the one in the driver's front fender I caused when I fell back with my elbow while working on another car. He got most of the big one out of the passenger door, he used a little popping tool with adapters he hot-glued to the door over the ding. He said if he could have gotten in behind it he would have gotten it all, but it was located right where the inside structure of the door tightened up on the front side so he didn't have access. The price was a mere $30.

    This afternoon I decided to give installing the Feal top hats on the rear shocks another shot. This time I left off the thick bottom washer provided with the top hats, along with the rubber spring isolator Ohlins provides. I left the bottom washer in the shock because it has a bevel that mates with a bevel on the shaft. See the picture for what I mean:



    Once that was all together I adjusted the overall length back to where it was, preloaded the spring and put it all back together. Ride height is where it was, everything looks good. I'll give it a good test tomorrow.

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  10. #606
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    The 'charger belt is staying nicely in place and I'm seeing 10 psi of boost. Unfortunately I'm back to having the gas smell under boost, it appears my tune is off. I have to wait for another hard disk to arrive to cannibalize so I can get all the data from my failed laptop's drive. The Rivals handle great, I think I have all the mold release agent scrubbed off. The rear shocks seem to be working better with the extended top hats as it seems to float over bumps that were harsh before (you wouldn't know the difference unless you had experienced it). I do need to get an alignment now.

    When I installed the top hats I left out the extra insulation I had put in the sound tubes between the trunk and the cabin on each side. I wanted to see how levels were with the RB muffler. It was definitely louder without the insulation so yesterday I decided to put it back in. You can see what I am referring to here:





    Here is the insulation used:



    Yes, that's a lowly foam pillow. A local guy turned me on to this and I have been running with them in place for several years (I'm pretty sure I documented this earlier in this thread). Here is how it looks once they are in place:





    You can remove the gas filler pipe for more access on the driver's side, but my masochistic side arose and I just pushed the pillow around it. FYI there are a lot of fasteners and steel pieces sticking into those spaces so it's really easy to cut your hand if you aren't careful.

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  12. #607
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Pillows, really? How do they deal with moisture?

  13. #608
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    It's a completely enclosed area so I'm not worried. The times I have been in there since doing it they have been dry.

  14. #609
    6,000 rpm - mere mortals would shift HarryB's Avatar
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    Interesting. Those tunnels contribute greatly to sound on the cabin (trunk acting like a speaker cabinet) but I assume to reducing HVAC efficiency as well.

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  16. #610
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    I don't know about Greece, but foam pillows are cheap in the US. You aren't out much to give it a try. You could also just jam some foam chunks in there, but the pillows are easy because the casing keeps everything neat.

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  18. #611
    5,000 rpm - there be torque here! RustRat's Avatar
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    This ain't no build thread!

    The previous owner of my car had filled this area with expandable PU foam which looks TERRIBLE, but unfortunately I can't tell if this made a difference or not.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #612
    Ninja Messiah kung fu jesus's Avatar
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    Just a thought, but if you are concerned about moisture, consider using patio furniture throw pillows. A lot of them are mold and water resistant. They are meant to be outside and can hold up to the elements better. Just read the tags on them.

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  21. #613
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kung fu jesus View Post
    Just a thought, but if you are concerned about moisture, consider using patio furniture throw pillows. A lot of them are mold and water resistant. They are meant to be outside and can hold up to the elements better. Just read the tags on them.
    The only issue I see with those types of pillows is that they are usually pretty firm. It would be hard getting them into those small spaces.

    Had my youngest help me bleed the brakes and clutch this morning. I also calibrated the O2 sensor and inspected the bottom of the car. Finally, I did some prep for installing the flaps on my radiator fan shroud. I'll have some pictures of that once I get around to doing the job.

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  23. #614
    Something clever Martin's Avatar
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    What about something like this:

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Roxul-59-7-...7-in-L/3394032

    Better fit, flexible edge compensates for normal frame variability, cuts easily
    Made from natural and recycled materials - user friendly, no fiberglass in product
    Easier and faster to install
    Water-resistant
    Non-combustible, fire-resistant up to 2150 F
    Excellent sound absorbency, sound deadening properties
    GREENGUARD Certified; Chemically inert - CFC and HCFC free product and process
    Does not promote growth of fungi or mildew
    Friction fit to ensure optimum performance, no sag over the years

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  25. #615
    Nukuler banned! chiefmg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin View Post
    Bad idea. That stuff gets everywhere and you don't want to be breathing it.

    A job helping a friend of my wife's move got postponed so this afternoon I decided to go ahead and install the fan shroud flaps. First step was to determine how large I wanted to make the opening. I settled on 5 mm less tn the bottom and sides, and 10 mm less at the top. This would give me overlap for sealing, as well as allowing me to bolt it at the top. These flaps come with rubber fingers that are meant to hold the flap in place, but I'm running a Lexan shroud which is a lot thicker than the normal metal shrouds these are used on. Once that was done I cut a template and laid it out:





    Next step was to drill holes at the corners of the opening, this provides stress relief while cutting the Lexan (and it will also stop any crack from propagating should you do something wrong):



    I then started to cut along the lines. Initially I tried using my Dremel with a cut-off wheel, however it was just melting the Lexan. Next I tried this:



    That did the trick. There was still some melting but unless you are using some sort of cooling fluid or going exceptionally slow I don't see how you can avoid this. Got both openings cut out and then needed to clean things up.



    I tried using a single-edged razor blade which worked, but at some damage to my fingers. I then figured I'd try my straight cutters:



    Those worked great. Once I had the edges trimmed I used a sanding wheel on the Dremel and a file to finish the clean-up.

    Since I was going to be bolting the flaps in place I wanted something to spread the load out to avoid cracking of the Lexan and to positively hold the flaps in place. I have some thin aluminum lying around so cut four strips out of that. Drilled three holes in each, located the strips on the shroud and drilled the holes in it. Finally I put it all together with some M4 screws and nyloc nuts. The hardest part of this was getting holes punched in the flaps, the rubber used is pretty tough. When all was said and done, I ended up with this:



    It isn't the prettiest thing I've ever done, but I found cracking on the attachment tabs on the shroud so I'm not sure how much more life it has anyway. I doubt anyone will be looking at it that closely in any case given the location of the flaps on the shroud.

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